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Mountain Biker looking to get into Road Cycling...

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Mountain Biker looking to get into Road Cycling...

Old 07-30-07, 07:04 PM
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Breitling
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Mountain Biker looking to get into Road Cycling...

Hi,
I've been a mountain biker for about 2 years and have always had an interest in road cycling too. I found a 2005 Specialized Allez Triple for $350 near me, and it looks to be in great shape. Is this a good deal??

Also, what other kind of stuff am I going to need to buy to get started? I've got some baggy MTB shorts that might work as shorts. But I'm completely new to this. So any advice you guys can give would be a great help.
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Old 07-30-07, 07:26 PM
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bump
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Old 07-30-07, 07:33 PM
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$350 is a very fair price for a late-model Allez in good condition. If it fits, and you don't find a better deal, buy it. And don't sweat the mtb shorts...they'll be perfectly adequate until you decide to buy something more road-oriented. Enjoy.
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Old 07-30-07, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Breitling View Post
Hi,
I've been a mountain biker for about 2 years and have always had an interest in road cycling too. I found a 2005 Specialized Allez Triple for $350 near me, and it looks to be in great shape. Is this a good deal??

Also, what other kind of stuff am I going to need to buy to get started? I've got some baggy MTB shorts that might work as shorts. But I'm completely new to this. So any advice you guys can give would be a great help.
Bike sounds good. I'm not sure on prices because everything is always more expensive here in australia. The most important thing is that it fits you well. Typically you'll want a bigger frame than what you're used to in mountain biking.

As for other stuff... I'd imagine you can just use most of your mtb gear. Do you already have clipless pedals/shoes for mountain biking? Nothing wrong with whacking some SPDs or eggbeaters on a road bike and just using your mountain bike shoes for now.

You'll find when road riding you spend a lot of time sitting down, in the one position. This is different to mtbing, where you are getting out of the saddle all the time and moving around. So comfort and fit become more important. This is why the tight shorts work better for road riding. You also need to make a conscious effort to move around a bit on the saddle and get up every so often to stretch out and give your butt a rest :-)
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Old 07-30-07, 07:36 PM
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Your username RULES.
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Old 07-30-07, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by patentcad View Post
Your username RULES.
Thanks, do you have a Breitling? If so, what kind?

I've got a Chronomat Evolution Vitesse in two-tone.
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Old 07-30-07, 07:59 PM
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Make sure it fits. Use the link for a start and then test ride.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...LCULATOR_INTRO
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Old 07-30-07, 08:13 PM
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Don't get a triple!
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Old 07-30-07, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by v1k1ng1001 View Post
Don't get a triple!
Why not?
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Old 07-30-07, 08:20 PM
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Few things for someone who knows bikes but not road bikes

Shimano's Pecking order: (low to high) Sora, Tiagra (lowest model to have STi* shifting I think still 9spd), 105 (now 10spd), Ultegra (10spd, XT equivalent), Dura Ace (road's XTR equivalent)

*STI shifting is a shimano thing there the brake lever also pivots to move up the chain rings/cassette. This allows for shifting in both the hoods (top of the bar) and the drops (bottom of the bars) where Sora you have to be up in the hoods (although some people with freekishly long fingers can do it in the drops) IMO really the only real reason to move up past Tiagra is weight, as the Tiagra will work fine for 5000 miles (thats about the mileage on mine) no problem

MTB pedals will work for now, however on longer rides, the small platforms of MTB pedals causes increased pressure in some areas giving you "hot spots" which can be quite painful.

edit* (since I saw the triple comment)

Triples are ok. What region are you in. Very hilly? Advantages are wider range of gears for super steep stuff and fast stuff. Downsides are increased weight and slight reduction in shifting smoothness for the front ring, although if its properly adjusted, its really not a problem at all.
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Old 07-30-07, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by asmallsol View Post
Few things for someone who knows bikes but not road bikes

Shimano's Pecking order: (low to high) Sora, Tiagra (lowest model to have STi* shifting I think still 9spd), 105 (now 10spd), Ultegra (10spd, XT equivalent), Dura Ace (road's XTR equivalent)

*STI shifting is a shimano thing there the brake lever also pivots to move up the chain rings/cassette. This allows for shifting in both the hoods (top of the bar) and the drops (bottom of the bars) where Sora you have to be up in the hoods (although some people with freekishly long fingers can do it in the drops) IMO really the only real reason to move up past Tiagra is weight, as the Tiagra will work fine for 5000 miles (thats about the mileage on mine) no problem

MTB pedals will work for now, however on longer rides, the small platforms of MTB pedals causes increased pressure in some areas giving you "hot spots" which can be quite painful.

edit* (since I saw the triple comment)

Triples are ok. What region are you in. Very hilly? Advantages are wider range of gears for super steep stuff and fast stuff. Downsides are increased weight and slight reduction in shifting smoothness for the front ring, although if its properly adjusted, its really not a problem at all.

I think I'm going to just spend another $35 and get some eggbeaters mxrs b/c i run crank bros on my mtb. I live in upstate SC, so the terrain is really hilly in some places, especially if I ever go up to NC to ride.
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Old 07-30-07, 08:46 PM
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bump one more time...i think I'm finally going to get into road cycling. just want a few more opinions if possible
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Old 07-31-07, 02:31 AM
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Oh, and you'll need to find a road too. road cycling is no fun without it.

eggbeaters are fine if the soles of your shoes are stiff enough, and you can certainly start out in your MTB shoes. i don't get any problems with mine on rides >100km unless there's a lot of climbing (but then i'd get sore feet on my older Look pedals too)

think about cars! they hurt, and often the drivers can be real pricks. don't fight them, they Will win. just listen and avoid unitl you get more confident.

enjoy
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Old 07-31-07, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Breitling View Post
Thanks, do you have a Breitling? If so, what kind?

I've got a Chronomat Evolution Vitesse in two-tone.


I no longer wear it riding. The last one popped off and was lost. But it was over ten years old, I bought it used for $600 at the time, and I got my money's worth out of it.

The new one did cost (gag) somewhat more.
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Old 07-31-07, 05:23 AM
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I was just a mountain biker until two weeks ago when I bought a new road bike. I decided to buy Look clipless pedals and road cycling shoes even though I could have used my SPD cleat mtb shoes. But the road shoes are oh so much lighter. Plus the Look pedals are more stable. I purchased cycling shorts and jerseys. I also purchased the cadence sensor for my Garmin 305. Plus, a new helmut to match the bike, but I guess I wouldn't say that was out of necessity. That's about it.
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