pivoxa15

I have an entry level road bike that needs turing every week because they said of my weight plus a heavy backpack that I carry totalling 100kg.

Should I buy a new wheel that is stronger or persist riding on a 'loose' back wheel? If I choose the latter what are the consequence?

mcoomer

Assuming that the wheel is being properly tensioned I would say that it will fail on you and when that happens it could be a single spoke snapping or it could be a catastrophic failure. I wouldn't want to take the risk of being hurt if it failed.

The next time you have it trued ask the shop about spoke tension and see what they tell you. If they are tensioning the wheel properly and it continues to fail I would get a new wheel. If they don't seem to know what they're doing I would get a new shop. Once you find that shop ask them about your wheel.

alanbikehouston

Assuming that the wheel is of good quality and was properly built, after one or two truings, it ought to stay true for several thousand miles. Of course, riding over curbs and potholes can shorten the life of any wheel.

Ask around and find out who is the best wheel builder in your town. If he is the best, he won't be cheap. I paid the best wheel builder in Houston $140 to rebuild a pair of wheels that were only worth $200 new. Although the finished wheels are the strongest wheels I own, I'm not sure it made sense to sink that much money into cheap wheels.

So, if what you have is just a "cheap" wheel with a generic hub and second-rate spokes and second-rate rim, it might be better to put your money toward a better set of wheels. Performance has a pair of Shimano 105 wheels right now for under $300 for a pair. I'd rather have those than keep putting money into a pair of cheapo wheels.

KevinF

What type of wheels do you currently have? 100kg is a heavy load, and can easily cause you to need more-frequent-then-normal wheel maintenance. However, if the wheel is being trued properly, it should stay true for much longer then a week.

Basically, what you need is to get the whole wheel re-tensioned -- i.e., where they take all the spokes out and then put the whole thing back together again. And you don't want the "works there for the discount" guy doing that; you want the really good guy, so it isn't going to be cheap. Ask around at your local club (or post here with your location) and get some recommendations. Re-tensioning a wheel isn't cheap; I'd guess $50 and up, depending on what the labor rates are at your shop.

Whether or not it's worthwhile to do that is another matter. i.e., some wheels just aren't designed to withstand the types of loads you're generating. The "gold standard" of durable wheels is 32-spoke Mavic Open Pro's, which any shop should be able to build up for you, or you can find them on-line in a variety of places (probably somewhere around $200, but I'm sure you can find them cheaper if you look).

Wil Davis

Actually, I think you're describing a complete re-build. In my book re-tensioning means slackening off the spokes to a known starting point (just 1 or 2 threads showing) and then bringing the wheel up so that it will "stand"; which is about 60% of the effort involved in a complete re-build.

- Wil

waterrockets 

I'll bet your wheels are low-end OEM wheels. They were poorly built from cheap parts.

At 100kg of load, I'd recommend you at least replace the rear wheel with a 36-spoke moderately deep-section wheel (Velocity Deep V). I ride a 36h Deep V and it doesn't slow me down at all. It's been flawless for, I don't know, 7500 miles? I'm planning to ride it for 30K miles (5 years). I was over 200 lbs when I built it, but I'm down to 178 now, with no plans to change wheels unless I get a PowerTap

+1 retension doesn't involve any lacing.

probable556

Every week??? Just replace or totally rebuild it.

ttopaz

100kg puts you in Clyde category.
I'm sure you can get lot of useful info in Clyde forum about wheels.

pivoxa15

But what are the consequences of riding on a wheel that is now properly tensioned?
Should I wait until a spoke snaps?

Right now I can touch the wheel and the spokes feels loose.

ridethecliche

Not good!
Fix it now or you might get hurt (seriously!).

Psimet2001 

Great recommendation. I would go for this setup as a minimum.

pivoxa15

Can you describe it in more detail?

pivoxa15

I do have an entry level road bike

How about this wheel?
Mavic Aksium
WEIGHT
Front 920 g, rear 1060 g
RIMS
Material: 6106 Aluminum
Color: silver anodised
Height: 21 mm
Joint: pinned
Drilling: traditional
Eyelet: single
Braking surface: UB Control
Valve hole diameter: 6.5 mm
SPOKES
Material: stainless steel
Shape: front bent, rear straight pull, profiled
Nipples: ABS, brass
Count: front 20, rear 24
Lacing: front radial, rear crossed 2
HUBS
Front and rear body: aluminum
Color: black or silver
Front and rear axle: steel
Bearing: QRM
Free wheel mecanism: FTS-L, steel

Or how about this one?
Campagnolo Khamsin

ElJamoquio

Given the description of the OP, I'd wager that's an invalid assumption.

Grasschopper

Both are decent wheels at a low cost...but if you want a wheel that is going to be bulletproof for a rider of your weight plus a load then you want 32 or 36 spokes.

Are you running Campy or Shimano?

recursive

+1

Tighten those spokes up.

Psimet2001 

I re-read this....I thought you were carrying a 100kg pack....plus your weight.... Imaloser.

I still would go for something more stable. Get a real wheelset. Custom built. You should be in the $300-$500 range. Sorry, but that's what it takes. You could get some 36 3X OP/Ultegras from Performance for right around $200. They are running 15% off and free shipping this weekend. Would be a good wheel, and much better for the price.

JeffS

Sounds like whoever's doing the work on your wheel is incompetent.

stapfam

Aksium and probably the Khamsin will give you a harsh ride.

Not up to your weight but My wheelbuilder built me some "Training" wheels. Mavic CXP33 rims, 105 hubs and 36 spokes crossed x 2. They may not be the lightest around but they are bombproof. In fact he has a couple of Clydesdales time trialling on these and they are the only wheels they can keep in one piece for a season.

AND over my Cheap OM wheels on my Giant OCR3- Average speed is 2mph faster and The ride is more comfortable. Now have the "Training" wheels as trainers for my new bike that has Ultegra Wheelset and they are Beautifull in comparison- but a harsher ride.

SDRider

You sure about that? I thought most of their Open Pro wheels were 32 hole. Still a great wheelset though and should be fine for a rider of his weight. I bought a set of Record/Open Pro wheels from Performance and they are 32 hole 3x wheels.

biker128pedal

100 kg is nothing for this level of bike. Are the spokes coming loose? If so then the threads need spoke prep or something to keep them from coming loose.

""Right now I can touch the wheel and the spokes feels loose.""

If the bike is under warranty take the it back and have the shop fix or replace the wheel. It was not build properly.

waterrockets 

A properly built wheel -- parts selection and tensioning -- will not need any spoke prep other than maybe a little oil to get them up to tension more easily. They should never go slack to spin loose -- if they are, then the wheel is too weak for the rider because of parts, build, or both.

Psimet2001 

No...I am not sure about that. I've had 28 hole on the brain lately with my last build. I forgot about 32 and went straight to 36. I believe you are correct in that the Performance OP/Ultegra offering is a 32 spoke.

My bad.

pivoxa15

What is the difference between truing a wheel and retensioning?

You people are suggesting I buy a wheel that will cost more then the bike?

THere are really expensive wheels with only 24 spokes.

I am planning to just ride with loose spokes until one snaps and then I will have to do something. Meanwhile there isn't any concern saftey wise?

john Q public

that was terrible! the marcell marceau quote! augh!