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Whoever said that it was easy to wrap your own bars owes me something.

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Whoever said that it was easy to wrap your own bars owes me something.

Old 08-30-07, 11:47 AM
  #26  
Wil Davis
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Originally Posted by fujirider View Post
snip…
1. How can you get a clean tape job on the wrap end closest to the stem? I couldn't figure out how to cut the tape so that I didn't have 1.5 inches of electrical tape holding the wrap on the end.

2. Inserting the bar ends...I know that you are supposed to leave a little tape off of the end to tuck into the open part of the bar. Well I did that but when I tried to put the bar end on, the tape wasn't cooperating. The bar end finally started to go on but then the tape started to pull off of the end of the bar.

Does anyone have ANY tips or tricks to do this job??
I've found the Park Tool tips to be very useful, especially the "reversed electrical tape" trick.

These were finished using vinyl electrical tape:
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Old 08-30-07, 01:47 PM
  #27  
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Why can't they make longer bar tape? To wrap it with sufficient overlap, I'd need at least another 8-10" of tape on each side. No matter how careful I am, the tape will invariably slip out somewhere, since the short tape didn't allow for enough overlap.

I'd prefer to have it so that the space between each tape edge is less than half an inch throughout, at the longest!
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Old 08-30-07, 01:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SpongeDad View Post
I have them - they rattle a bit on rough road, but they work nicely. Good to have at dusk, or if you end up going through a tunnel or under a dark underpass and need something to punch up the visibility.
Wrap tape around the insert part -no rattle or hum.
 
Old 08-30-07, 01:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CdCf View Post
Why can't they make longer bar tape? !
Profits would plummet.
 
Old 08-30-07, 01:58 PM
  #30  
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Where's the 'how do I tie these damn shoelaces?' thread?
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Old 08-30-07, 02:41 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by DocRay View Post
Profits would plummet.


Then why not start selling them in two or three different lengths? That way, people have a choice. My bet is that the longest choice would very soon become the top seller...

After all, handle bars come in different widths, both in terms of end-to-end distance and tube diameter. Why one single length of bar tape should be expected to fit all kinds of bars is beyond me...
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Old 08-30-07, 02:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CdCf View Post


Then why not start selling them in two or three different lengths? That way, people have a choice. My bet is that the longest choice would very soon become the top seller...
The sub-prime mortgage market crash a few weeks ago was traced to 32mm to much bar tape from Cinelli, according to MSN market analysts...the market, she's a fickle beast.
 
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Old 08-30-07, 04:37 PM
  #33  
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slightly off topic...but how do you guys suggest doing pursuit bars? I always start them at the end with the reverse brake levers and go towards the stem from there. Seem to work ok but right at the brake there is a bit more tape than I really like...
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Old 08-30-07, 09:49 PM
  #34  
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I think bar wrapping has gotten unnecessarily mysterious, probably thanks to the cross-pollination of methods via the web. I still don't get the whole electrical tape toward the stem deal, or why anyone would wrap from the bottom to the top, necessitating the need for electrical tape as "finishing."

If you wrap with tension with at least 1/4-inch overlap from the tops to the drops you get a cleanly-wrapped bar that stays wrapped ... dead simple. Just anchor your first wrap on the top with 100-percent overlap and keep the tension tight as you go down. Brifter housings can be taped tight to the bar with a few pieces of electrical tape beforehand. The tape you have leftover can be cut if need be ... otherwise just plugged into the bar-end, so no worries about how much tape is leftover at the end of the wrap ... assuming you have any leftover.
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Old 08-30-07, 11:18 PM
  #35  
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try this....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cFbWpwojro
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Old 08-31-07, 09:24 PM
  #36  
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Found JUST what the OP needs:

HANDLEBAR TAPE FITTING DVD - $6.12



https://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=N1019
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Old 08-26-20, 01:23 AM
  #37  
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I've always wrapped my own bars and like to use Cinelli cork. So this last time around I went with white and took a pic and only then noticed the gap on the left side bottom front. Carefully took off the electrical tape end and un wrapped, re wrapped, and fixed it. before and after:



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Old 08-26-20, 05:26 AM
  #38  
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This thread will become a teenager in a few days. Boy! Time flies. Seems like just yesterday that I ordered its first diaper changed.
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Old 08-26-20, 06:22 AM
  #39  
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The title of this post made me chuckle I'm glad I learned how to wrap handlebars a million years ago when "bar tape" actually was tape. It was much, much easier to wrap than today's padded tapes are. However, I much prefer riding with today's padded and grippy tapes, like Lizard Skins. I'll admit that if the tape doesn't allow much stretch, is very wide, and very padded, it can be a beast to get a nice looking wrap.

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Old 08-26-20, 06:24 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by gios View Post
I've always wrapped my own bars and like to use Cinelli cork. So this last time around I went with white and took a pic and only then noticed the gap on the left side bottom front. Carefully took off the electrical tape end and un wrapped, re wrapped, and fixed it. before and after:
White tape always looks so good when new, but how do you keep it clean? Seems like one would have to replace it every year to keep it from looking nasty, yellow, and dirty
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Old 08-26-20, 02:00 PM
  #41  
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Ohh, I love zombie threads almost as much as I love a good new bar wrap.



Top-down w/ no finishing tape preferred.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:07 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
Ohh, I love zombie threads almost as much as I love a good new bar wrap.
I love a good bar wrap as well.

Keep trying, and you'll get the technique down someday.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:09 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Andy Somnifac View Post
Ohh, I love zombie threads almost as much as I love a good new bar wrap.



Top-down w/ no finishing tape preferred.
Looks nice, but I still prefer to start from the bottom. Makes it less likely the tape will unravel.

What's the deal with zombie threads, btw? I have suggested that any thread over a certain age (say 6 months? A year? A decade??) should not be bumped except maybe by the OP to update what happened.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:11 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Looks nice, but I still prefer to start from the bottom. Makes it less likely the tape will unravel.
+1

The tape job he did isn't bad, it's just a little uneven.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:13 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by datlas View Post
Looks nice, but I still prefer to start from the bottom. Makes it less likely the tape will unravel.
The trick is a good once around tight 100% overlap at the top for the first go around. A nice cushy tape makes it easier too. I've been doing it this way for years without any unraveling issues. The downside is at the bottom, getting everything to finish up nice and neatly can be a pain.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:36 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by fujirider View Post
Does anyone have ANY tips or tricks to do this job??
Practice. Practice. And more practice. Just like riding a bike, it takes lots of practice and trial and error. Eventually, after you've done it a few times, you will be able do it with your eyes closed. And if you get really good you won't even need those little pieces to cover the shifter clamps.
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Old 08-26-20, 02:45 PM
  #47  
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My experience with taping "top down" is that one's hands/gloves have a tendency to catch on the "edges" on the wrap due to the direction of the taping, causing the taping to wear prematurely. I'm not saying one can't prefer top-down taping, but there's a "scientifical" reason why it's suggested to tape from bottom-up.

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Old 08-26-20, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield View Post
I'm not saying one can't prefer top-down taping, but there's a "scientifical" reason why it's suggested to tape from bottom-up.
​​​​​​Point taken. But we all have our quirks.
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Old 08-26-20, 06:11 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield View Post
White tape always looks so good when new, but how do you keep it clean? Seems like one would have to replace it every year to keep it from looking nasty, yellow, and dirty
Yep, you just replace it once a season, along with all the other wearables on the bike. Bar tape is pretty cheap and is meant to be replaced regularly.
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Old 08-26-20, 06:40 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by PoorInRichfield View Post
White tape always looks so good when new, but how do you keep it clean? Seems like one would have to replace it every year to keep it from looking nasty, yellow, and dirty
This is why I bought a pair of white gloves after re-taping my red bike with the white tape. The black version of the same glove seems to bleed onto the tape.

Also helps if you have other bikes, so you're not always riding the one with the white tape.
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