Newbie to the forums...Got a couple of questions
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Newbie to the forums...Got a couple of questions
Hey everyone I'm pretty new to the Road biking world so I have a couple of questions that hopefully you can help with. Actually I so new to the Road biking world that I don't even have one yet. But this leads to my first main question, how do you all feel about the 2007 Specialized Allez Elite for my first Road Bike?
FRAME Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum, fully manipulated tubing, compact race design, FACT carbon seatstays w/ Zertz inserts
REAR SHOCK N/A
FORK Specialized FACT carbon steerer and fork legs w/ Zertz inserts
HEADSET Specialized Mindset, 1 1/8" integrated threadless, sealed bearings, alloy 20mm cone w/ one 10mm and two 5mm alloy spacers
STEM Specialized Comp-Set, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt 31.8mm bar clamp, 4- position adjustable
HANDLEBARS Specialized Expert, 6061 alloy, short-reach drop, ergonomic top shaping, 31.8mm
TAPE / GRIPS Body Geometry Bar Phat, cork ribbon w/ 2.5mm gel padding
FRONT BRAKE Dual pivot, forged alloy w/ cartridge multi-condition pads
REAR BRAKE Dual pivot, forged alloy w/ cartridge multi-condition pads
BRAKE LEVERS Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Tiagra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano 105, 10-speed, long cage
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible
CASSETTE / FREEWHEEL SRAM PG-950, 9-speed 12-26t
CHAIN Shimano HG73, 9-speed
CRANKSET Sugino Direct Drive, 2-piece crankset
CHAINRINGS 52x42x30t
BOTTOM BRACKET Sugino integrated, exterior cartridge bearings, alloy
PEDALS Composite body, alloy cage w/ toe clips and straps
RIMS Jalco GX460, alloy triple wall, machined sidewalls w/ indicator grooves
FRONT HUB Specialized forged alloy, 24 hole, double sealed ball bearings, straight pull spokes, QR
REAR HUB Specialized forged alloy, 28 hole, double sealed ball bearings, straight pull spokes, cassette, QR
SPOKES Stainless 14g, straight-pull
FRONT TIRE Specialized Mondo Comp, 700x23C, aramid bead, 60TPI
REAR TIRE Specialized Mondo Comp, 700x23C, aramid bead, 60TPI
TUBES Specialized standard presta tube
SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry Alias, carbon reinforced base, microfiber cover
SEAT POST Specialized Pavé II, FACT carbon w/ Zertz insert, aluminum head, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER Specialized CNC, alloy
NOTES Chain stay protector, chain catcher, derailleur hanger, clear coat, owners manual
Second question I got is what is a reasonable computer that will give me all the basic features of a bicycle computer but also a heart rate monitor?
FRAME Specialized A1 Premium Aluminum, fully manipulated tubing, compact race design, FACT carbon seatstays w/ Zertz inserts
REAR SHOCK N/A
FORK Specialized FACT carbon steerer and fork legs w/ Zertz inserts
HEADSET Specialized Mindset, 1 1/8" integrated threadless, sealed bearings, alloy 20mm cone w/ one 10mm and two 5mm alloy spacers
STEM Specialized Comp-Set, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt 31.8mm bar clamp, 4- position adjustable
HANDLEBARS Specialized Expert, 6061 alloy, short-reach drop, ergonomic top shaping, 31.8mm
TAPE / GRIPS Body Geometry Bar Phat, cork ribbon w/ 2.5mm gel padding
FRONT BRAKE Dual pivot, forged alloy w/ cartridge multi-condition pads
REAR BRAKE Dual pivot, forged alloy w/ cartridge multi-condition pads
BRAKE LEVERS Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible
FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Tiagra, 31.8mm clamp, bottom pull
REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano 105, 10-speed, long cage
SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Tiagra, 9-speed STI, flight deck compatible
CASSETTE / FREEWHEEL SRAM PG-950, 9-speed 12-26t
CHAIN Shimano HG73, 9-speed
CRANKSET Sugino Direct Drive, 2-piece crankset
CHAINRINGS 52x42x30t
BOTTOM BRACKET Sugino integrated, exterior cartridge bearings, alloy
PEDALS Composite body, alloy cage w/ toe clips and straps
RIMS Jalco GX460, alloy triple wall, machined sidewalls w/ indicator grooves
FRONT HUB Specialized forged alloy, 24 hole, double sealed ball bearings, straight pull spokes, QR
REAR HUB Specialized forged alloy, 28 hole, double sealed ball bearings, straight pull spokes, cassette, QR
SPOKES Stainless 14g, straight-pull
FRONT TIRE Specialized Mondo Comp, 700x23C, aramid bead, 60TPI
REAR TIRE Specialized Mondo Comp, 700x23C, aramid bead, 60TPI
TUBES Specialized standard presta tube
SADDLE Specialized Body Geometry Alias, carbon reinforced base, microfiber cover
SEAT POST Specialized Pavé II, FACT carbon w/ Zertz insert, aluminum head, 27.2mm
SEAT BINDER Specialized CNC, alloy
NOTES Chain stay protector, chain catcher, derailleur hanger, clear coat, owners manual
Second question I got is what is a reasonable computer that will give me all the basic features of a bicycle computer but also a heart rate monitor?
#5
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#6
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Right MPH2. I was questioning what the price on 9 speed stuff was when all/most of the 07 stuff is 10 speed and can be had for 900 or less.
edit-I didn't even notice the BD bike was ultegra.
edit-I didn't even notice the BD bike was ultegra.
Last edited by wanders; 01-07-08 at 03:34 PM.
#8
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For your first bike, you need to take a test ride. Don't even think about buying one you can't test out. Maybe if you already knew exactly what you want. But probably not even then. Go to a store and test it out.
As for the bike, it looks pretty good for an intro bike.
I don't know what computer does what you need. I know a gps unit would do it, but that might be more than you need/want.
As for the bike, it looks pretty good for an intro bike.
I don't know what computer does what you need. I know a gps unit would do it, but that might be more than you need/want.
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Bikes Direct purchased the rights to use the Motobecane name, which used to be a boutique bicycle. Bikes direct buys frames I believe from Taiwan and places them with a great parts spec for the money. Almost all factory frames come from Taiwan today, so it is not a compromise in quality. You won't get the ohhs and ahhs of a bigger name brand but you will get a better bike for the money. the downside is you will not have a relationship with your local bike shop as if you purchased a bike from them.
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I've tried the Specialized Allez and it seems really nice....but at the same time I dont really know what im looking for. Most people tell me to stay away from the SORAs if I want to eventually grow into the bike. I am curious about the the bike that MPH2 suggested but I agree that I would like to ride it before I buy it.
As for the computer thing...I just wanted distance, speed, timers, misc features and heart rate...maybe cadence
As for the computer thing...I just wanted distance, speed, timers, misc features and heart rate...maybe cadence
#12
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It also may be a good idea to look for some used bikes, if you want to go that route. Seeing as you're looking for an entry level bike anyway, you could probably get a better (even if older) bike for the money used. Bikesdirect is unbeatable in terms of what you get for the money for a new bike, but keep in mind that if you buy it from your local bike shop (LBS) they'll probably throw in a service deal also, which will be helpful if you don't know how to tune your bike up yourself. Of course there's also the option of buying a bike online and taking it in for service, but you'll pay a lot for the service that way.
Edit:
I went through the same search when I was first looking for a computer. You can get a cheap computer for the basic functions, heartrate however is another story. I ended up getting the Polar Cs200cad which is all basic functions plus heartrate and cadence. Another option that's cheaper is to get a bike computer without heartrate, then buy a separate heartrate monitor (I just bought an Oregon Scientific Se102 for my girlfriend.) You can put the watch on the handlebars to your bike. If you want it all in one computer, unfortunately there isn't a cheap way that I know of to do it.
Edit:
I went through the same search when I was first looking for a computer. You can get a cheap computer for the basic functions, heartrate however is another story. I ended up getting the Polar Cs200cad which is all basic functions plus heartrate and cadence. Another option that's cheaper is to get a bike computer without heartrate, then buy a separate heartrate monitor (I just bought an Oregon Scientific Se102 for my girlfriend.) You can put the watch on the handlebars to your bike. If you want it all in one computer, unfortunately there isn't a cheap way that I know of to do it.
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Do you know people who ride? People who can help put a bike together (I believe the bike comes assembled you just need to put on the bars and wheels and tune it) and someone who can help fit you on a bike?
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I really dont know people who ride...It kind of a new hobby and I'm trying to get healthy since I just quit smoking (15year habit)
EB314 I was looking at that Polar cs200 but I really didn't want to spend that much....I like your suggestion about the two separate monitors....That may be the path im taking
EB314 I was looking at that Polar cs200 but I really didn't want to spend that much....I like your suggestion about the two separate monitors....That may be the path im taking
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I've tried the Specialized Allez and it seems really nice....but at the same time I dont really know what im looking for. Most people tell me to stay away from the SORAs if I want to eventually grow into the bike. I am curious about the the bike that MPH2 suggested but I agree that I would like to ride it before I buy it.
As for the computer thing...I just wanted distance, speed, timers, misc features and heart rate...maybe cadence
As for the computer thing...I just wanted distance, speed, timers, misc features and heart rate...maybe cadence
#18
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I really dont know people who ride...It kind of a new hobby and I'm trying to get healthy since I just quit smoking (15year habit)
EB314 I was looking at that Polar cs200 but I really didn't want to spend that much....I like your suggestion about the two separate monitors....That may be the path im taking
EB314 I was looking at that Polar cs200 but I really didn't want to spend that much....I like your suggestion about the two separate monitors....That may be the path im taking
#19
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Internet bluster aside, 18lbs is a very light bike, if that is a real weight.
Even "marketing-speak"-wise, it's not bad at all.
Even "marketing-speak"-wise, it's not bad at all.
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#20
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Don't get too caught up in a bike's weight as a measure of how good it is. There are $500 crappy bikes that weigh 18 pounds and custom $3000 bikes that weigh 28 pounds. How many speeds it has in back isn't that important either. And cheap crappy bikes frequently aren't that crappy. Just get on a bike that is close to your size, even if you found it in covered in dust in a relative or neighbor's garage, get it tuned up a bike shop, and get riding.
After a summer of riding you'll have a clearer idea of what you like and don't like for your first bike purchase.
After a summer of riding you'll have a clearer idea of what you like and don't like for your first bike purchase.
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This is not to say you shouldn't buy something new for your first roadbike. I'm just saying the most important thing is that you ride. Good Luck!
#22
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Anything that rolls reliably, is in the proper shape of a road bike and is a good price is a good bike for a beginner. Stay away from mail order for the time being, you'd have no idea how to size the thing - size is important for road cycling; lots and lots of repetitive motion. 9 speed is fine, 10 speed stuff is still pretty expensive and you can still obtain 9 speed cogs and chains and they have fallen to pretty reasonable prices (can't beat a $30 9 speed 105 cogset vs. twice that for the 10 speed version). Tiagra is good for starters. It works in the same way as the higher price stuff and it will take you all the way from your first ride out the driveway to racing if you so desire.
My first new bike was an $850 bike which I got for $650 (the bike shop owner was kind and sold it to me for the price he (mis-)quoted me). I rode it for 9 years before I got a 2007 Trek Madone 5.2, which is an excellent bike. I still ride the old one; it is a rain bike for now. It is solid and is the most stable bike I own (I call it the "tank", because it is dead on stable and weighs a relatively "heavy" 23 lbs - quotes around "heavy" because 23 lbs isn't all that much heavier than 18, which my Madone weighs in at).
EDIT: I forgot to say that my very first bike that got me into the sport was a downtube shifting, 7 speed Trek somethingorother that I bought used for $300. Anything to get you onto the road - preferably in the shape of a road bike. Just make sure it doesn't fall apart and it doesn't break the bank.
My first new bike was an $850 bike which I got for $650 (the bike shop owner was kind and sold it to me for the price he (mis-)quoted me). I rode it for 9 years before I got a 2007 Trek Madone 5.2, which is an excellent bike. I still ride the old one; it is a rain bike for now. It is solid and is the most stable bike I own (I call it the "tank", because it is dead on stable and weighs a relatively "heavy" 23 lbs - quotes around "heavy" because 23 lbs isn't all that much heavier than 18, which my Madone weighs in at).
EDIT: I forgot to say that my very first bike that got me into the sport was a downtube shifting, 7 speed Trek somethingorother that I bought used for $300. Anything to get you onto the road - preferably in the shape of a road bike. Just make sure it doesn't fall apart and it doesn't break the bank.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#23
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There are three important things to consider when buying a bike.
1. Fit
2. Fit
3. Fit
If you get a bike that doesn't fit well, you'll have a miserable time on it. If it's not comfortable you're not going to want to ride it.
1. Fit
2. Fit
3. Fit
If you get a bike that doesn't fit well, you'll have a miserable time on it. If it's not comfortable you're not going to want to ride it.
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I'll second the above post about looking for a deal on a 105 bike. The 105 stuff is really solid, and well appreciated, but then there are few complains on here about Tiagra as well. Sora, I believe generally receives complaints purely about the location of the thumb shifters, but otherwise lots of people ride Sora as well. I understand however that if you only have one local bike shop to shop at, your options on a close-out price in your size may be few, but look around and see what you can come up with.
The general idea, is this.
1. You need a bike that fits you well. A Sora bike that's comfort inspires you to ride is worth far more
than the ultegra bike that sits in the garage because it hurts your back.
2. Considering the above first...buy the best components you can for the money. Look for models on the
shelf from last year or even '05-'06. Chances are decent the shop owner has been trying to get that
darn bike off his shelf for a while and would be willing to work to try and fit your budget.
3. If you do have access to an old bike out of a friend/family member's garage that hasn't been used in a
while...and it fits ok...it IS a good idea to spend a bit of money to put new tubes/tires, and do a basic
tune-up on it and spend half a year riding the heck out of it. It's much better to realize that cycling
isn't your thing when you've only invested 80 bucks into the sport instead of 800. This would also
allow you to learn the basics of riding on a safe and functional bike while picking up some of your riding
apparel so that when it's time to buy a new "upgrade" bike, it'll actually cost you $900 instead of
$1050.
Good luck, and let us know what you find/decide.
-Jeremy
The general idea, is this.
1. You need a bike that fits you well. A Sora bike that's comfort inspires you to ride is worth far more
than the ultegra bike that sits in the garage because it hurts your back.
2. Considering the above first...buy the best components you can for the money. Look for models on the
shelf from last year or even '05-'06. Chances are decent the shop owner has been trying to get that
darn bike off his shelf for a while and would be willing to work to try and fit your budget.
3. If you do have access to an old bike out of a friend/family member's garage that hasn't been used in a
while...and it fits ok...it IS a good idea to spend a bit of money to put new tubes/tires, and do a basic
tune-up on it and spend half a year riding the heck out of it. It's much better to realize that cycling
isn't your thing when you've only invested 80 bucks into the sport instead of 800. This would also
allow you to learn the basics of riding on a safe and functional bike while picking up some of your riding
apparel so that when it's time to buy a new "upgrade" bike, it'll actually cost you $900 instead of
$1050.
Good luck, and let us know what you find/decide.
-Jeremy