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busted carbon fork, what to do???

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busted carbon fork, what to do???

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Old 02-04-08, 09:15 PM
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busted carbon fork, what to do???

I took my tourmalet to the lbs to ck on damage after my lil accident. It turned out the Carbon post did not brake but it got bent in the alum part. Well I need a new fork. Now, should I replace it with another original fork for the tourmalet (lemond) or should I look to get another fork??? The lbs guy told me that he would sell me a carbon fork for $75 that he had there (new) but it sort of curves fwd. The original one was straight down. He said only diference would be that with the one curving fwd my feet wont hit the front wheel making it more convenient but the ride would be the same. What would u guys do? Go for the original one from lemond?? Get the one offered from my LBS??? Buy another one??? Price is not really an issue as the insurance of the park where it happened will pay for it... thanks for your suggestions!!!!
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Old 02-04-08, 09:24 PM
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I would go with an exact replacement of the original fork.

Your guy at the LBS is wrong about the effect of the different fork. Because it has more "rake" (ie. it curves forward more) it could quite significantly alter the handling of the bike. As a general rule, the further forward the fork curves, the more stable the bike will be in a straight line, but it will also be more difficult to corner at speed, as the steering will feel slower and less responsive.
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Old 02-04-08, 09:30 PM
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By your description, the first thing I would do is get another LBS. The fork rake is what matters and can have the same rake straight leg or curved leg fork. Throwing you a line of bs to sell what they have on hand.

You need to find out what rake fork came with the bike and find an appropriate replacment. Lots of lighter and in my humble opinion better forks than the stock one that needs replaced.
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Old 02-04-08, 09:30 PM
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uhm, a fork can look straight, but still have the same rake as a fork that appears to have more curve... these things can't be measured with the naked eye... all road forks will have very close/similar rakes. to an amateur, not really an issue... most proprietary forks seem to be kind of lame compared to those sold by the bigger fork companies like alpha q, easton, reynolds... im sure the one that comes with that lemond is el cheapo taiwanese bleh.. check sheldon's site for a lesson in rake...
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Old 02-04-08, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by elgalad
I would go with an exact replacement of the original fork.

Your guy at the LBS is wrong about the effect of the different fork. Because it has more "rake" (ie. it curves forward more) it could quite significantly alter the handling of the bike. As a general rule, the further forward the fork curves, the more stable the bike will be in a straight line, but it will also be more difficult to corner at speed, as the steering will feel slower and less responsive.
Reverse that. I know it's counter-intuitive, but the more forward rake (mm's of offset) the quicker it will steer as you've reduced the trail. Several searches, and many lessons thrown my way have taught me this.
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Old 02-04-08, 10:35 PM
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ok now im getting confused...which one is it??? I been looking at the easton forks as an alternative....the ec70 is actually a lil lighter than the stock one..then I'll have to choose btwn the ec70 aereo and the ec70 sl....
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Old 02-04-08, 11:35 PM
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Here's Dave Moulton's blog on rake
https://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/20...le-bit-of.html

-- Whether it curves or is straight you also have to account for the angle in contrast to the steerer tube (steering aixs) Your LBS dude may be right. I thing there is a bit of springness from slightly curved forks, which you may or may not want!
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Old 02-05-08, 08:15 AM
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There are two major factors at play here.

1. Fork Rake (as mentioned by the other posters) is hugely important. Rake can range from 40mm to 45mm and a 1mm difference can be huge.
2. Crown Height, or the distance from the center of the axel to the crown race of the headset. This difference cna effectively change head tuble angle and also adversely affect handling.

you must make sure that these two things are the exact same with any new fork if you want to preserve the old handling of the bike. (or make sure you can take it back if you get something different). I would not try to guess at handling differences as the 'more/less stable' rule is only a guide and may change depending on your crown height (I changed from a 40mm rake to a 43mm and got a more stable ride) so be really careful in selecting a new fork.
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Old 02-05-08, 08:18 AM
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If insurance is paying for it get another Lemond fork.
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Old 02-05-08, 08:21 AM
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+1 for going with something like an Easton 70/90 or Alpha Q or Ouzo Pro (Look makes some nice forks these days, though they are now only building integrated). Making sure the rake is correct is the key.
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Old 02-05-08, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Miguelangel
I took my tourmalet to the lbs to ck on damage after my lil accident. It turned out the Carbon post did not brake but it got bent in the alum part...
Interesting, when I had a head-on collision with a motorbike, same thing. The carbon didn't appear to be damaged but the alloy section cracked.
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Old 02-05-08, 04:23 PM
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Giantcfr1 the brakeage occured in exactly same place as mine!!!
Thank you for all the posts!!!
BTW the Lemond distributor here just told me he is waiting on answer from the cocmpany as they told him they dont have it on stok... Easton looks like a major contender!!! Thanks on the rake and crown height comments!
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