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is this fork to damaged to use?

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is this fork to damaged to use?

Old 02-09-08, 06:51 PM
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is this fork to damaged to use?

I am looking to buy a used fork. here is the basic description and a pic.

Used Cannondale Slice Premium Carbon fork with a 1 1/8 inch carbon steerer and alloy dropouts. The steerer has a star nut installed and ready to go. The star nut is about 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) into the steerer. It is used and has some cosmetic blemishes in the clear coat - nothing that affects function or safety, but you need to know. There is one small nick on the left blade, five small nicks on the right blade, and a big chip in the outer coating on the "C" at the top of the fork. They are all visible in the pictures but may not show, if that gives you some idea how big they are. There is also a tire rub mark on the inside of the left blade which isn't in the photos. If you're working on a winter project and you're not entering it in a beauty pageant, this is a great fork. I have described this accurately, but if you receive it and it is not what I described, or if you feel it is unsafe, I will accept returns and refund your bid. Once you install it, it is yours. Fair enough? I have a 100% feedback rating and want you to be satisfied. Please ask questions before bidding. This is a no reserve auction, so someone's getting a deal."



Would you buy this fork to use or does it sound like it has to many chips?
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Old 02-09-08, 07:05 PM
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I would mostly avoid used carbon on principle, but then I did buy used Zipps.
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Old 02-09-08, 07:26 PM
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Doesn't look like a "cosmetic blemish" to me -- looks like it's into the structural carbon, and in a bad place too. Stay away.
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Old 02-09-08, 10:09 PM
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One of the things that strikes terror into me is the thought of fork failure. There is no freaking way I'd ride a fork with that kind of mark in it.

Last edited by F1_Fan; 02-09-08 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 02-09-08, 10:13 PM
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Old 02-09-08, 10:13 PM
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So...this guy is probably selling the fork for 2 reasons

A: he wrecked the bike, the frame is destroyed and the fork (and tires, I saw the eBay auction) are the only things salvagable

or

B: He crashed, the rest of the bike is OK but he doesn't trust the fork himself

Also, why is there a star nut in a a carbon steerer? unless they have an alu insert

Look elsewhere!
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Old 02-09-08, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by F1_Fan
One of the things that strikes terror into me is the thought of fork failure. There is no freaking way I'd ride a fork with that kind of mark in it.
.
+1000 not worth the risk.... failure of fiber material is hard to tell due to the fact that it just goes and usually gives no warning like craks and stuff... be safe
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Old 02-09-08, 10:18 PM
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From the picture I can't tell. That fork may not be all that bad, and it may. On the other hand, star nuts should NOT be used in carbon steer tubes.
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Old 02-09-08, 10:35 PM
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See, if ill ready owned the fork, i would keep riding it, but if i was in your situation, I would avoid it.

If there's an alloy insert w/ the starnut inside that in the steer tube then your peachy, but if a starnut is justpressed into the carbon, I'd avoid that too. To cannondale forks come that way now?
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Old 02-09-08, 11:10 PM
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I edited my post above after finding this in the archives:

just with through this with an 06 six13. Cannondale does specify using a starnut and not a compression plug. The difference in the starnut is they seat it further down in the tube requiring a longer bolt. I took mine to LBS and let them handle that part of it.
Cannondale's procedure is really unique and I've never seen anything like it. I'd do it their way for their fork but most others are absolutely against any form of starnut and strictly specify a compression plug or a proprietary glue-in plug.

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Old 02-09-08, 11:39 PM
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There are enough BF members selling used carbon forks for a 100 bucks or less for something in decent condition for you to take such a huge risk on something like a carbon fork. Not worth it!

Ask around here, a bunch of people have a few.
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Old 02-09-08, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jynx
is this fork to damaged to use?
If you have to ask, then YES!
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Old 02-09-08, 11:58 PM
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send it to Samu Ilonen!
he can fix it!
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Old 02-10-08, 12:05 AM
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the trouble with carbon is that sometimes you can't see the damage, it could truly be damaged structurally and you wouldn't even know until the fork breaks
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Old 02-10-08, 12:38 AM
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uhh actually with carbon, usually the carbon will hold and will suddenly break if it takes on too much force. unlike aluminum where a harline crack develops, carbon will fail on you all at once or nay
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Old 02-10-08, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynamic
uhh actually with carbon, usually the carbon will hold and will suddenly break if it takes on too much force. unlike aluminum where a harline crack develops, carbon will fail on you all at once or nay
well yes when the whole carbon structure breaks it's all or nothing but in the case of it not breaking there can be broken fibers in the area of the actual impact and then the whole structure will break with less stress
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Old 02-10-08, 02:17 AM
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ah I see waht you mean.
I meant in the case you see no damage to the carobn itself.
aluminum can look fine but hairline cracks are basically invisible.
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Old 02-10-08, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynamic
ah I see waht you mean.
I meant in the case you see no damage to the carobn itself.
aluminum can look fine but hairline cracks are basically invisible.
sorry if my response was kinda confusing. I'm also one of those types who's deepest darkest fear is a faor breaking while I'm riding.
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Old 02-10-08, 10:05 AM
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If you're in doubt, don't do it. Forks aren't that expensive, even new. A trip to the ER, on the other hand... Do you really want to be wondering about that fork's integrity every time you approach a fast descent or slam a pot hole that the rider in front didn't point out?
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Old 02-10-08, 10:34 AM
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You guys are all right, I am going to hold off on it. I need a replacement fork for my 56cm 2006 caad8. I want to get the reynolds ouzo pro but I have read aftermarket forks are different lengths and I dont want to change how the bike handles. Sheldon Brown's link says most aftermarket forks are a little longer then OEM forks. Anyone know the length of a reynolds and a cannondale? What would be an equivalent replacement?
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Old 02-10-08, 12:28 PM
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it's up to you..

ask yourself this, is saving a bit on something that looks like it's damaged worth your own personal safety and wellbeing? if so than bid on it, if not then walk away...

and before you say it's not a big deal, it was a big enough deal to concern you enough to post it here, which in my opinion answers your own question...
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Old 02-10-08, 12:59 PM
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Run Away!
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Old 02-10-08, 01:10 PM
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Flee!!
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Old 02-10-08, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jynx
You guys are all right, I am going to hold off on it.
Good call. No point in making your User Name an ironic prediction, right?

Originally Posted by Jynx
I need a replacement fork for my 56cm 2006 caad8. I want to get the reynolds ouzo pro but I have read aftermarket forks are different lengths and I dont want to change how the bike handles. Sheldon Brown's link says most aftermarket forks are a little longer then OEM forks. Anyone know the length of a reynolds and a cannondale? What would be an equivalent replacement?
There are three dimensions that you might be referring to:

1) On forks with a carbon steerer tube you generally you don't want to have too much steerer tube extending unsupported above the headset. Bike manufacturers cut the steerer tubes down on their production bikes to be within the safe limits. However after market forks usually are sold with a longer steerer tube so that the same fork can be sold to a customer whether they ride a 48 cm bike or a 61 cm. Stocking individual, pre-cut sizes would be an inventory nightmare for shops. However the shop will be able to cut it down to the correct size when installing the fork.

2) The fork offset, or rake, can also vary depending on the manufacturer. This can also effect the steering, and some people include comfort as well. I had switched forks a few years ago, and the new fork had a rake that was a few mm different from the original, but I didn't notice any significant difference. Your experience may vary, of course. If you want to be sure, check the Cannondale web site, or e-mail them, to find the original fork rake for your bike and try to match it.

3) The distance from the fork dropouts to the crown is potentially another factor. If this dimension were to change, it would also effectively change the head tube angle of the bike and the steering / handling characteristics. This is often a factor on mountain bikes if someone is trying to change between a rigid fork and a suspension fork. However I have never seen this dimension listed for aftermarket road forks, so it is probably not an issue.
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Old 02-11-08, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HigherGround
Good call. No point in making your User Name an ironic prediction, right?

There are three dimensions that you might be referring to:

1) On forks with a carbon steerer tube you generally you don't want to have too much steerer tube extending unsupported above the headset. Bike manufacturers cut the steerer tubes down on their production bikes to be within the safe limits. However after market forks usually are sold with a longer steerer tube so that the same fork can be sold to a customer whether they ride a 48 cm bike or a 61 cm. Stocking individual, pre-cut sizes would be an inventory nightmare for shops. However the shop will be able to cut it down to the correct size when installing the fork.

2) The fork offset, or rake, can also vary depending on the manufacturer. This can also effect the steering, and some people include comfort as well. I had switched forks a few years ago, and the new fork had a rake that was a few mm different from the original, but I didn't notice any significant difference. Your experience may vary, of course. If you want to be sure, check the Cannondale web site, or e-mail them, to find the original fork rake for your bike and try to match it.

3) The distance from the fork dropouts to the crown is potentially another factor. If this dimension were to change, it would also effectively change the head tube angle of the bike and the steering / handling characteristics. This is often a factor on mountain bikes if someone is trying to change between a rigid fork and a suspension fork. However I have never seen this dimension listed for aftermarket road forks, so it is probably not an issue.
Sorry I wasn't more clear. I need a fork with a 45mm rake. I was refering to the crown heights being different on aftermarket forks. They are not listed from manufacturers or aftermarket companies. Sheldon Brown's site says that most of the aftermarket forks are a couple of mm longer effectively changing tube angles. I was trying to avoid that by staying with a cannondale fork.
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