Fizik Aliante users - what angle?
#51
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In the video, the guy works for and represents fizik. The way he shows to level this specific saddle is different then most people would traditionally level a saddle. For me it caused discomfort.
Once I went back to the traditional way and then made adjustments from there it was great. So basically fiziks guidelines for saddle leveling caused the confusion. At least for me anyways. I can't speak for everyone.
Once I went back to the traditional way and then made adjustments from there it was great. So basically fiziks guidelines for saddle leveling caused the confusion. At least for me anyways. I can't speak for everyone.
#52
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Ah...I didn't see the video.
I admit the Dynamic was the forst saddle I'd ever put a level on, because I'd read so much about its swoopy peculiarities. I suspect, however, that had I eyeballed it, I'd have arrived in the same place.
I admit the Dynamic was the forst saddle I'd ever put a level on, because I'd read so much about its swoopy peculiarities. I suspect, however, that had I eyeballed it, I'd have arrived in the same place.
#53
Junior Member
Hi. New to the site but had also been struggling with the angle of the aliante and even contemplated returning it for something else. I tried leveling it as demonstrated in the video in YouTube from fizik and had it slightly nose down. Did 20 miles stopping and adjusting along the way and I kept adjusting the angle down further. In the end it felt like I had been sitting on a pipe the whole way and I was pretty tore up. Found this thread and them started level like you guys recommended which was not the same leveling reference points as the fizik guy showed. I put a book on top of the whole saddle and leveled it from there. And it felt much better. Then started toying with the upwards angle and I found that this is very comfortable. Going to test it out on a long ride this week sometime. Hope it helps someone out if they're having problems.
#54
Senior Member
I've just got an Aliante R3 Open and have watched the GCN/Fizik video on setting it up, and I followed this video. It does look quite nose down.
I'm going to experiment with the fore-aft, tilt and saddle height to dial this in properly.
It seems that many people have this saddle slightly nose up. Given the curvature of the saddle, this would surely interfere with the Crown Jewel's, no?
I'm going to experiment with the fore-aft, tilt and saddle height to dial this in properly.
It seems that many people have this saddle slightly nose up. Given the curvature of the saddle, this would surely interfere with the Crown Jewel's, no?
#55
out walking the earth
Zombie bump. Came across this thread looking for Aliante set up articles.
The question that comes up for me is "level" from where? Using (a carefully balanced) Husky digital I'm at -1.2 from the edge of the 'V' notch. Recently I had some back issues and started playing with my position some. Other issues followed. I've dropped the angle to -2.4, and then kept playing from there. I frequently see folks say their saddle is level, but from the top of the back it seems nose down.
Here's Graeme Brown's from 2016
This is mine at -2.0
The question that comes up for me is "level" from where? Using (a carefully balanced) Husky digital I'm at -1.2 from the edge of the 'V' notch. Recently I had some back issues and started playing with my position some. Other issues followed. I've dropped the angle to -2.4, and then kept playing from there. I frequently see folks say their saddle is level, but from the top of the back it seems nose down.
Here's Graeme Brown's from 2016
This is mine at -2.0
#56
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I have the nose of mine down a couple of degrees.
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I'm with Graeme Brown. I like the center of the saddle to be flat, which means the saddle is pitched down if you include the nose and the tail of the saddle.
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The saddle has an 's' shape. Leveling it is like trying to level a hammock, it will be really hard to get a level to read zero. I feel like you're going to have to fiddle with the tilt until it feels right anyway. Then just record the angle in a repeatable way.
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#61
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It seems a weird way to measure. The level sits over the rounded front so changes dramatically based on how one presses down on the end at the 75mm mark. Seems to me that board method provides the most consistent results. Though I've been using these since they came out, and I've always measured from the 'V.'
#62
out walking the earth
You sound like the person on a restaurant thread who answers 'get what you like' to the question 'what should I order?'
There's a number of ways to measure the angle consistently, so I'm just trying to clarify where people are measuring from. It's clear that saying "I ride it level" won't mean anything unless there's a measuring standard.
#63
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It seems a weird way to measure. The level sits over the rounded front so changes dramatically based on how one presses down on the end at the 75mm mark. Seems to me that board method provides the most consistent results. Though I've been using these since they came out, and I've always measured from the 'V.'
#64
out walking the earth
I'm just making conversation and trying to establish a standard within the thread so we're all talking about the same thing. :shrug: If I do it that way, leveling from 7.5mm (as best as I can), then check the measurement from the 'V' notch it's -2.4
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yeah, I’m sorry for being short and rude. My apologies. I was PWM (posting while mad) about other stuff.
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#67
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I've been riding nothing but Aliante's for many years now and I can't find another saddle that works as well. I have mine set just slightly above horizontal, like EribB123.
#68
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I set all mine pretty flat. To level them I use a 1-1/2“ long, single vial, (keychain type), level set into the lowest section of the curve. As others have noted, kind of hard to determine where the touch points should be on an “S” shape. Find a spot that looks close, baseline it with a tiny vial, tweak from there. Agree that a VSX is kind of a different animal, and have found a Kurve to be the most comfortable to me of any version.
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I assume there's a reason, but I can't figure it what it is: Why don't all saddle manufacturers make their rails parallel to what they consider a "level" seating surface? Or actually I should ask whether ANY saddle makers do this?
#73
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I believe the idea is to avoid adjustment of a saddle height after moving the saddle back or forward. If the rails were level then after moving saddle forward the distance to pedals will decrease - you'll need to raise the saddle to compensate. And after moving saddle backward the distance to pedals will increase - you'll need to lower the saddle. In fact, this recommendation is mentioned in many guides - and this is wrong in most cases because rails are usually *not* level, they are angled, and because of this angle saddle doesn't just move horizontally: it automatically raises if it is moved forward and goes down, if moved backward.
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