jberenyi

If you had to use spacers on your 1" threaded steer tube, what would be the tallest stack height in millimeters you would consider aesthetically pleasing up to 25mm? Keep in mind, the effort here is to get height for fit reasons.

Patriot

Is this supposed to be a trick question?

Because you don't use spacers on a threaded steerer. It should already be cut to length for the headset you are using. If the steerer is not cut, then get it cut to the right length. Then, get the appropriate length quill stem for the bar height you need.

Dubbayoo

+1

Ramjm_2000

Perhaps the OP is using a quill adapter?

Patriot

He could, but you still don't need spacers. You achieve steerer tension with the headset lock nut, then use the quill adapter for use with a bolt on stem. That's really all the quill adapter is for. They're used for allowing you to use a bolt on stem, instead of a quill stem with a threaded steerer.

waterrockets 

Yeah, quill stem = zero spacers. You can get some tall-ass quill stems though.

botto 

correct.

carpediemracing 

You can use spacers on a threaded fork, for example if you're using a taller fork than normal in a frame in order to avoid using a Technomic or similar stem.

I think guys like Indurain did this, esp on TT bikes that had ridiculously small front wheels and really high stem needs. Lower cup, spacers, locknut. Then a stem.

I'd swap out the thicker spacers for thinner ones (i.e the ones that came with the headset, typically a couple mm thick). You could easily go the other way.

I figure if the stem expander wedge bolt thing is below the threaded bit, it doesn't really matter about spacers, you're limited by the stem. If the expander wedge bolt thing is in the threaded area, prob not safe.

cdr

jberenyi

No. It's not a trick quesiton. Many people including myself use spacers on headsets for threaded steer tubes to get additional height that a standard quill stem will not give due to angle and minimum insertion limitations.

Patriot

Huh?

If the steerer is too long, then I could see using a spacer or two underneath the top lock nut to make up some of the differance, but the steerer is meant to be cut to proper length without using spacers at all. If the quill stem is too short, then get a longer quill stem. I don't understand what you are getting at.

jberenyi

My body geometry requires a custom frame (which I have already $$$) but I bought a nice vintage NOS Italian beauty for those Sunday rides which was the best I could get for my needs and size requirements. I have a very long inseam (36.5") and a short torso so no matter what off-the-shelf frame I get, it will not fit correctly on saddle to handlebar drop. I prefer 2" and to get that I have to use a spacer in my Record headset which is now at 25mm. I bought a Chris King silver spacer which are real nice. I spent much time trying to find the best quill stem and using ones with various angles from 71, 72, 73, 76, and 90. I decided on the Salsa 90 degree quill because it gave me the 2" drop I needed without putting it at minimum insertion. I was hoping not to get into a long winded message but I hope this helps.

Patriot

I'm thoroughly confused. How you are able to "add" spacers to a pre-existing threaded steerer has me baffled. It really sounds like you're going to need to just get a taller quill stem to get the bars up higher.

I think we need some pics to see exactly what is you're trying to do.

AEO

yeah, you want the quill to be pressing against the unthreaded part of the steerer tube. Your steerer tube can fail if the quill is binded to the threaded section.

jberenyi

The fork that came with the bike was also NOS and the importer by accident gave me a fork with a longer steer tube so it had to be re-chased to extend the threads a little and then the overall length was also shortened a bit. I was suppose to have a 58cm fork but I believe they gave me the next size larger or more. I had my LBS do the threading and cutting down of the fork so we could install the 25mm Chris King spacer. In a way I'm glad they messed up because I was able to get the exact length I needed for my desired drop of 2".

Patriot

Ahh!!!!!

Now you tell me.

Ok, the spacer thing is fine, but obviously it is now cut for a 25mm spacer, and you can't add any more, since the top lock nut needs threads for compression.

When uncut, you could have added as many spacers as you wanted to before cutting. Heck, it's a steel steerer, so you could have even left it full length and added 20cm of spacers if that floats your boat. But now it's cut, so you're stuck with what you have.

To get the bars up to the right height now, you'll need a taller quill stem.

jberenyi

Now that you know the rest of the story (sorry), let's get back to my original question. Yes, I know I could have went more on stack but it would have made the bike look way different from what I was envisioning. I don't want a freakish looking bike. And to honest its only 5mm more than some of my friend's bikes who also have some nice vintage gear like Pinarello's, Mondonico's and Colnago's. Maybe I'm just splitting hairs here over 5mm. My goal during this build was to never go more than 25mm and if need be I could trim back in case I messed up on some calculations. In any event here is a pic. Let me know your thoughts on the spacer. I guess other options to diminish the long silver spacer would be to use black and silver spacers like some people do for aesthetic appeal.

Patriot

Well, to minimize the "freakish" look, you could go find a can of spray paint that very closely matches the frame color, and scuff and paint that silver spacer to match the frame. Then, it'll blend in better.

I painted the stem on my old roadie too, and it really looks nice.

And like I said, if that stem you have is already at minimum insertion, and you want the bars higher, you'll need a new stem with a longer quill, or with a higher angle.

jberenyi

Or I could just get a black Chris King spacer.

Patriot

Yes. That'll work too. Especially if you still want it to say "Chris King". Otherwise, some gloss black Krylon might be cheaper.

cuda2k

25mm is about as high as I'd go on those spacers. quill or threadless - once you get above the bearings and races you've essentially got a fulcrum arm. A steel threaded steerer tube is quite strong, but consider you have cut threads into that steel making it weaker than a unthreaded tube of the same diameter and wall thickness. However it is then strengthened by the spacer samwiched between the top lock nut and the race. I'm not knowledgable or experienced enough to say if it balances out completely, thus I err on the side of caution. Especially when it's not my neck I'm sticking out there. Judging from the photo you have with the Salsa quill stem where it is, I don't suspect you'll have any problems, but it is something to remember and consider.

carpediemracing 

I say go with the silver. If you want to get fancy you could etch it or something.

I hope you'll reverse the downtube cable stop

Nice DeBernardi btw.

cdr

jberenyi

This was an older photo. I took care of that a long time ago. Thanks though.