KCNY

Hi,
First time here, and I already spent several hours just reading on all the prior BD related posts; so although this is new news for me, I sort of see now what the drill is.
I want to ask a question for advice, but my only two options are both Dawes.
Which one should I buy:
Dawes Lightning 1000 for $319+$39shipping
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150247723054
or Dawes Lightning Sport for $199+$39shipping
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=150248783723


((( Being as this is a Dawes vs. Dawes question, I am aiming and hoping to avoid all the flaming related to this versus a "real" bike that costs much more money but is much more "worth" it. Money is no object for some and for some others it is. Regularly it may not have been for us, but right now both I wife and husband are unemployed and things are ok but uncertain and not really the greatest. What a better way to battle stress than to pick up cycling, huh? So hopefully we can get a new job soon (trying but its tough market) and even upgrade at that point if needed, so this would be our introductory bikes. )))

For now, my question is more like, given that we're looking at a very low price point, unacceptable to many people here, should we go with the lowest of the low @199+sh or make the small effort to get the @319+sh. They both look nice and the same and we're not that picky, just wondering if there's a nice pick-up on the extra 119.

Thank you!!!
Also wondering if LBS in NYC are friendly to the idea and will assemble/fix bikes bought elsewhere like BD or internet (for a fee of course).

Thanks people for the deeply needed advise!
*KAISEY*

bubbaeck

Have u checked craigslist? Because u could probably find a much better used bike for the same price.

halfspeed

Pass on the cheap one to move beyond the stem shifters and the seven speed drivetrain.

Call around to some bike shops before buying to find out what they'd charge for the final assembly and tuning it'll need.

Kabloink

The higher priced model is going to be a lot more rider friendly with the brifters and the triple crank. If your riding through city traffic, being able to shift while keeping the hands on the brakes would be a plus.

Also, unless you have been riding for a while, that double 52/39 crank on the lower priced model is going to be a real pain due to the high gearing.

Kelly.Fisher

I second that. If buying new is the only option you're comfortable with, then buy the most you can afford. The Lightening 1000 at least has STI, so you can get a feel for how modern shifting feels/works. The groupset on the cheap bike is firmly back in the 1970's/80's Schwinn era. I've seen the Dawes Lightening 1000 at several large organized rides in my area and it doesn't appear to be a halfbad bike. It'd serve your needs until you feel like you can afford to upgrade.

I'd still, however, strongly recommend you shop around for something used. With some work you could find a much nicer bike for the $450 you're talking about spending here. It won't be new, but if you get a recognized brand name, you could sell it once you're ready to upgrade and recoup most (if not all) of your initial layout for the bike by selling it to someone else. The Dawes is going to be virtually worthless the second you open the box. That's certainly something to consider!

KCNY

thanks about the comment to check for used on craigslist or ebay...
I meant to say something about that, but had already written too much...
I've checked, and it's hard to know what's a good deal or good bike if you just dont know... plus I heard it would take a little time to find the right deal and the right fit... May is almost over, so I want to buy a bike and be riding just for the sake of being out there pretty soon.

Also, the ebay seller for the Dawes has a new option out at $349+sh
It's a 2009 Dawes Sheila Women's specific road bike that I'm no considering.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=140235847148

However, in all honesty, I'm leaning towards the $199bikes, we can get two for a total of less than $500. We'll probably have to pay for either assembly or tunning too I guess...

But why spend double, when both options are not optimal right? I think the $199 bike should be a pretty good temporary bike. Renting per day here is $25-$35+/day... so let's say I can use this bike for 10 days, then I'm already better off than renting. And I'm sure this bike can get me through the summer just fine. Maybe next summer we can upgrade, not components, but bikes.

KCNY

hi I checked LBS for used bikes and nothing, and I also looked around for new ones, but even by telling the fellows that my price range was $500-$600 (i inflated it a bit), they would either dismiss me quickly by saying they have nothing for me or pointing to one bike which looked nice for ~$569 and then also leaving me. Best thing I saw was a Fuji Newest 4.0 for $490, but was suggested that I would need some gear-shifting related upgrade for $200 to make it better, so then I lost interest.
Also, what is the big deal about LBS advantage and service when it comes to being fitted?
Several LBSs just looked at me quickly or asked for my height and then proceeded to tell me what my size bike would be. Is this it? I guess Thank you!

kevinjw

if you dont mind waiting, my friend ordered a windsor wellington last week, which is another low end bike from the same people. it should get here next week. i could give you his initial impression, but i bet the dawes would be okay for what youre going to use it for.

also i know what you mean about lbs not caring about people not wanting to spend a lot of money. I had to go to several before I found one that helped me out even though i wasnt able to spend lots of money. actually it was about 200 dollars, which is a lot of money to me, but probably not the lbs.

Kabloink

You can also upgrade the components slowly and make a half decent bike if you buy the lower priced one. I actually bought a barely used Dawes Lightning a while back for under $100. Mostly due to the fact I like steel frames and thought it would be a good bike to fool around on. Though admittedly, it will still be a heavy bike. Even with my upgrades, the bike still weighs about 25 pounds.

Currently, its been upgraded with a Specialized alloy crank, Nashbar bottom bracket, Shimano Ultegra bar end shifters and some alex rims with tiagra hubs. The biggest complaint I had with the bike was the heavy steel crank that originally came on it.

bikerdfresh

i had a dawes, then realized it was a POS and sold it, get yourself a good single speed. look at the Windsor Hour at Bikes Direct for $299 its awesome

KCNY

oh.. what is the main difference between aluminum and steel, weight?

I will have to carry my bike up and down a 3flr walk-up everyday.

dont plan on taking the pothole route much, but will seeks smoother rides on the edge of the city.

KCNY

thanks for the suggestion, the bike looks great.
except i'm not ready to become a fixie. I want to coast & cruise and relax

bikerdfresh

there are advantages to both bikes, steel rides MUCH better, but can rust. Aluminum is a little more harsh but won't rust, your choice.

for smoother ride, go steel. You know what they say, steel is real.

mgbguy

The assembly is really a breeze. I wouldn't let that stop me from buying. It took me 20 minutes to set up the BD bike. I guess I could have completely dissassembled it and gone through every component, but I just bolted the handlebars on and connected the brake. I have about 6K miles on a BD bike and have no complaints. I would go for the higher end of your two choices.

jkizzle

dont get the lightening. ive wrecked on it twice due to a POS derailler dropping chains. get a used bike, and test it out before you ride it.

for the critics, the throw is right, its the RD not having enough tension going over small bumps.

bikerdfresh

this would be a good option as well
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/lt1200.htm

bikerdfresh

or this:
https://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALUMINUMROAD...QQcmdZViewItem
or this:
for your wife
https://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-WOMENS-SPECI...QQcmdZViewItem
for you:
https://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2009-ALUMINU...QQcmdZViewItem

Slackerprince

I checked NYC craigslist, and there are tons of bikes there.
I would try that.
Good luck.

S.

bikerdfresh

you decide on which one you are going to get?

KCNY

Benefits of Buying at LBS?
is it all the same in NYC than in other other cities or small towns, etc...
I know LBS in Miami are great, friendly, and very useful.
Here in NYC or Manhattan, I suppose it's the same, but only if you're spending over a thousand bucks on a bike and more regularly on accessories.
I cant blame a salesperson for choosing to help whoever looks like they will spend more first, and at some point they should get to the people who want to buy the $500 bike.

But anyways, if you buy a bicylces at the LBS, do they provide some kind of added value? Perhaps free or discounted maintenance and tune-ups for a year? Or is it just free air that you get like everyone else? Thanks!

KCNY

any sample of a CraigsList deal under $200? under $400?
I'm afraid of buying a 1980s bike Maybe I shouldnt but...

bikerdfresh

just get one of the dawes or motobecane (better than dawes) ride that until you have the job/money to get a new one and convert your dawes/motobecane into a ss/fixie to train on. problem solved.

KCNY

thanks you bikerdfresh, I have not bought it yet...( and will likely follow your advice so thanks! )
someone mentioned to go with the steel one...which I think it's the cheaper one.
the one thing I like about the other options (sheila, 1000) is that they have 4 brakes, meaning two ways of breaking. that may be very useful?
dont know anything else about the quality/components, 7 or 8 gears etc.
So I figured, the less you know, the less you should spend
Spend less for the learning experience


However, say for example, that 3,6,9, or 1 months later, hypothetically, I can sell both/either bikes for $100 less or $200 less than what I spent, equally. Relatively same re-sale value.
In that case I should go for the $319 or $349 bike...

I will make my purchase by tomorrow I guess. Sleep on it AT LEAST one more night!

Kabloink

If you will be riding in traffic, the extra cross brakes do had an extra measure of safety. Otherwise, if you ride on the tops of the bars, you have to move your hands farther to get to the brakes.

The main differences I see on the two bikes you listed are:

Sport:
Steel frame - smoother ride, but heavier bike
Shifters - stem mounted, requires moving hands away from brakes to shift
Crank - double which gives you less gearing options when climbing hills

1000
Aluminum frame - lighter but most likely harsher ride
Crank - triple gears, better for hills
Shifters - brifters, easier to use while keeping hands on brakes, less hand movement needed
cross brakes - braking from bar tops

BikeWise1

Good lord! Those are the biggest handlebars I've seen since the 80s! The drop and reach are ridiculous.

A nice set of more modern bars would be my next upgrade.