Basso steel frames?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: maine
Posts: 89
Bikes: 2006 Trek 1500, 2008 Fuji Track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Basso steel frames?
What’s the consensus on steel Basso frames? The one I am looking at is built up but the seller does not know the original frame model. From what little research I’ve done, I’ve come across the Gap, and that’s it. Quality frame? Something to avoid? It’s 4.5 years old.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,639
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Basso made good steel frames, but I don't know if they sent their production overseas. There seem to be a number of the Italian thoroughbred brand names that quit making their products in Italy the old-fashioned way. I came close to buying a Cinelli a couple of years ago until I read that they were being made in Asia. That's not to say it's a bad frame, but only to say it perhaps wasn't hand-brazed by a guy named Giuseppe.
#3
Descends Like Avalanche
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Somewhere between Funkytown and Margaritaville, PA
Posts: 5,769
Bikes: Lynskey R240, Sportive, and a Helix Sport disc model in the works; Eddy Merckx MX Leader; Specialized Rock Hopper Comp (1988!)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
In the mid to late 90's I had a Basso Ascot made with Columbus MS tubing. It rode nicely, but it was on the heavy side. It served me well though. I completed about 10 centuries on it, including the Assault on Mt. Mitchell.
Unfortunately it developed a crack after just 5 years of use. This particular frame had the seat binder bolt running directly through the top of the seatstays. It looked cool, but I think it was too much stress concentrated in that area. The crack formed on the underside of the weld at the seatstay / seat tube / binder bolt junction. If the Gap you're looking at has the same design, I'd check that area very carefully. The bike pictured below was not mine, but the frame is the same:

A friend of mine had a older model Gap (probably late 80's) where the seat binder bolt was at the top of the seat tube, and the seat stays joined the seat tube below, and he had no problems with it. The picture below shows the seat binder bolt design that I believe is better than what was on the Ascot:

Good luck!
Unfortunately it developed a crack after just 5 years of use. This particular frame had the seat binder bolt running directly through the top of the seatstays. It looked cool, but I think it was too much stress concentrated in that area. The crack formed on the underside of the weld at the seatstay / seat tube / binder bolt junction. If the Gap you're looking at has the same design, I'd check that area very carefully. The bike pictured below was not mine, but the frame is the same:

A friend of mine had a older model Gap (probably late 80's) where the seat binder bolt was at the top of the seat tube, and the seat stays joined the seat tube below, and he had no problems with it. The picture below shows the seat binder bolt design that I believe is better than what was on the Ascot:

Good luck!
__________________
The rider in my avatar is David Etxebarria, not me.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: maine
Posts: 89
Bikes: 2006 Trek 1500, 2008 Fuji Track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I'm getting the actual frame and wheel info this afternoon. As of now, I know this:
-The bike was built up by the owner on a blue Basso frame.
-It has all 105 with the exception of an Ultegra crank.
-It was built up 4.5 years ago.
-It is for sale for under 400 dollars.
-I believe the build is about 24 lbs.
If it fits, is that a decent deal, very good deal, or great deal?
With this bike, I will be doing a fair amount of training for general fitness with an eye towards competing in a few triathlons. It would be my first road bike (currently have a fixie and a MTB).
-The bike was built up by the owner on a blue Basso frame.
-It has all 105 with the exception of an Ultegra crank.
-It was built up 4.5 years ago.
-It is for sale for under 400 dollars.
-I believe the build is about 24 lbs.
If it fits, is that a decent deal, very good deal, or great deal?
With this bike, I will be doing a fair amount of training for general fitness with an eye towards competing in a few triathlons. It would be my first road bike (currently have a fixie and a MTB).
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: maine
Posts: 89
Bikes: 2006 Trek 1500, 2008 Fuji Track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The frame I am looking at has the following model number: 9842009 56. I presume the 56 means 56cm frame.
Thoughts on that specific frame? Anybody know about them?
Thoughts on that specific frame? Anybody know about them?
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 260
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
On most Basso's you can check the serial under the BB to see what year they were made. I have some PDF's that I found on Classic Rendezvous. See if you can find out what kind of tubing it has. Mine is an '85 with an old Campy/Fir wheelset @ ~21lbs. I'm sure you can get it under 20 with Open Pro's and keep the classic look.
I'd buy it if it's in good shape!
I'd buy it if it's in good shape!
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: New Jersey, USA
Posts: 1,007
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Basso is still in business (not imported to the US at this time) and claims to make their bikes in Italy: see www.bassobikes.com . There is still a steel bike in their range, the Viper: I have a one of these from around 2000 and it is a fine frame. The Gap was their basic frame and was constructed in slightly different ways depending on the year. There are other steel frames that were above the Gap in the lineup: Ascot, Loto, Viper, etc.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 235
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In the mid to late 90's I had a Basso Ascot made with Columbus MS tubing. It rode nicely, but it was on the heavy side. It served me well though. I completed about 10 centuries on it, including the Assault on Mt. Mitchell.
Unfortunately it developed a crack after just 5 years of use. This particular frame had the seat binder bolt running directly through the top of the seatstays. It looked cool, but I think it was too much stress concentrated in that area. The crack formed on the underside of the weld at the seatstay / seat tube / binder bolt junction. If the Gap you're looking at has the same design, I'd check that area very carefully. The bike pictured below was not mine, but the frame is the same:

A friend of mine had a older model Gap (probably late 80's) where the seat binder bolt was at the top of the seat tube, and the seat stays joined the seat tube below, and he had no problems with it. The picture below shows the seat binder bolt design that I believe is better than what was on the Ascot:

Good luck!
Unfortunately it developed a crack after just 5 years of use. This particular frame had the seat binder bolt running directly through the top of the seatstays. It looked cool, but I think it was too much stress concentrated in that area. The crack formed on the underside of the weld at the seatstay / seat tube / binder bolt junction. If the Gap you're looking at has the same design, I'd check that area very carefully. The bike pictured below was not mine, but the frame is the same:

A friend of mine had a older model Gap (probably late 80's) where the seat binder bolt was at the top of the seat tube, and the seat stays joined the seat tube below, and he had no problems with it. The picture below shows the seat binder bolt design that I believe is better than what was on the Ascot:

Good luck!
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: maine
Posts: 89
Bikes: 2006 Trek 1500, 2008 Fuji Track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks for the thoughts. Any help on that specific frame would be great. The serial number is: 9842009 56