Hot r Not
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Has potential, but it’s a NOT as is.
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It just didn't pop much so I decided to have fun with it. I ran this tape last year:
It was "loud", I got a kick out of it.
This year was the Supakaz red/white transitioning tape...just for the heck of it. I'll probably go back to white next year.
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Wow that was so much better. I hear you on the make it "Pop" thing that seems to be the fad now and days. Lots of kids die their hair funny colors, and buy bright colorful clothes. Some even get jobs at clowns in a circus ;0)
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On a side note...while the Supacaz tape is really neat stuff (the red portion is actually a completely different material than the white so the drops have more grip/less pad then the tops), I won't get the red/white again...It's not my favorite.
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Also, regarding the specialized...the new crankset looks fantastic, the red tires not so much. I won't fault the bar tape because I'm a fan of the supacaz stuff myself (still, I might opt for the black with the red print option for next time).
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By photographing it correctly, it shows off how nice your bike really is. They are not rules set in stone, but I have seen people chastised in both Hot R Not threads for not following it. Some of that stuff is just normal stuff, like tires lining up with the valves.
Even a plain bike will look really nice when properly shot. Not my bike, just used for an example.
Even a plain bike will look really nice when properly shot. Not my bike, just used for an example.
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I'm not sure I'd all that a "plain" bike. Hot.
Also, regarding the specialized...the new crankset looks fantastic, the red tires not so much. I won't fault the bar tape because I'm a fan of the supacaz stuff myself (still, I might opt for the black with the red print option for next time).
Also, regarding the specialized...the new crankset looks fantastic, the red tires not so much. I won't fault the bar tape because I'm a fan of the supacaz stuff myself (still, I might opt for the black with the red print option for next time).
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By photographing it correctly, it shows off how nice your bike really is. They are not rules set in stone, but I have seen people chastised in both Hot R Not threads for not following it. Some of that stuff is just normal stuff, like tires lining up with the valves.
Even a plain bike will look really nice when properly shot. Not my bike, just used for an example.
Even a plain bike will look really nice when properly shot. Not my bike, just used for an example.
It seems to me that the purpose of standardized, static and clinical photos like this is that they make for fair comparisons. They present the frame, wheels and components in a way that makes them as clear as possible in a single view, to facilitate scrutiny. However, these views often fail to capture a bike's overall appeal, and often make bikes look more plain than they would when experienced normally.
What we can tell from the photo above is that the bike has a finely constructed frame, expensive components, and gorgeous red paint. The set-up is classic, but frankly, aside from the paint, it's not the least bit eye-catching or charming. The photo may reveal it to be a high-quality bike, but it's far from 'hot.'
And by the way, the tires are misaligned a bit - valve aligns with 'M' in 'COMPETITION' in the rear, and is between the first 'T' and 'I' in the front - not centered in either case.
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I like how the branding says Gazelle, when it is anything from light, fast and nimble. To each their own though.
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To be fair, it looks like a fun little bike to ride around town.
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Try and ignore the mixed chainring bolts, eliminating the red ones soon, also useless stem spacers.
Last edited by Bunyanderman; 10-09-15 at 06:47 PM.
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The drops are huge.... not sure how long I could stay there.
Yes i do... zero seconds.
Yes i do... zero seconds.
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1 hour away, time to get some tools and up your skills. It's not like if you run into problems you can't toss the bike in the car and get it fixed.
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I actually do most of the work that needs to be done on my bike, ranging from easy stuff like using carbon paste and properly torquing bolts, to completely adjusting the drive train/swapping components. I have re-done cabling before, but I tried on this aero frame and it was impossible with out a huge magnet to pull the cables through (internally routed). But I have no interest in getting the tools/knowledge to build/adjust wheels, and I stay away from the Bottom bracket, especially difficult with this frame and crank-set.
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I actually do most of the work that needs to be done on my bike, ranging from easy stuff like using carbon paste and properly torquing bolts, to completely adjusting the drive train/swapping components. I have re-done cabling before, but I tried on this aero frame and it was impossible with out a huge magnet to pull the cables through (internally routed). But I have no interest in getting the tools/knowledge to build/adjust wheels, and I stay away from the Bottom bracket, especially difficult with this frame and crank-set.
Easy peasy.
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I actually do most of the work that needs to be done on my bike, ranging from easy stuff like using carbon paste and properly torquing bolts, to completely adjusting the drive train/swapping components. I have re-done cabling before, but I tried on this aero frame and it was impossible with out a huge magnet to pull the cables through (internally routed). But I have no interest in getting the tools/knowledge to build/adjust wheels, and I stay away from the Bottom bracket, especially difficult with this frame and crank-set.
Also, totally random, but I read this week that if you only use one bottle you should put it on the seat tube because it's more aero. (Of course, I still think it looks better on the down tube).
All in all, not bad.