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Weight wasn't the main reason: those early Shimano STI front shifters were hard to fine-tune. Riders used a down tube shifter on their climbing bikes to avoid chain rub on the front derailleur.

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In fact now that I put the shorter quarq cranks on there I should be OK'd for raising the saddle up another 5mm in a few weeks. It's lower than optimal for knee extension/flexion, but if you optimize for that my tracking goes to crap. So this for now while I learn a different stroke technique, shorter cranks, 10mm longer stem, and then after I get used to (and loosen up my hamstrings) then we can go up to the proper seat hight.

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I hate the black bikes, too. But I think matte black makes a great base for color. I started with black ENVE decals, and it was just too black for me, then I went green, and they didn't match the frame, and now I've settled on white, and I like that a bunch.

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Yeah, pic is taken from below the bike. Handlebars are pretty up there, though. The bars and saddle are the result of a retul ($$$) bike fit just a couple of weeks ago. I'm not going to mess that up just to take a picture, though. The intent is to lower the bars more and more as my flexibility improves... but it's just not there yet, and I ride this bike too much to leave it set up for looks.
In fact now that I put the shorter quarq cranks on there I should be OK'd for raising the saddle up another 5mm in a few weeks. It's lower than optimal for knee extension/flexion, but if you optimize for that my tracking goes to crap. So this for now while I learn a different stroke technique, shorter cranks, 10mm longer stem, and then after I get used to (and loosen up my hamstrings) then we can go up to the proper seat hight.
In fact now that I put the shorter quarq cranks on there I should be OK'd for raising the saddle up another 5mm in a few weeks. It's lower than optimal for knee extension/flexion, but if you optimize for that my tracking goes to crap. So this for now while I learn a different stroke technique, shorter cranks, 10mm longer stem, and then after I get used to (and loosen up my hamstrings) then we can go up to the proper seat hight.

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Getting ready for a fast Easter Sunday Como Street ride tomorrow. A few oz under 14#.

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I can't help you with hating the product though. They make great products, but now I'm also a little tired of they way they are treating companies that buy their tubing.
They gave me some hoops a few years ago, but now the have gotten a bit full of themselves.

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I was talking about the nose down angle of the saddle. That usually leads to pressure on the hands, and numbness in the groin. The bars also look rotated up to compensate for the slope of the saddle. Both could just be due to the photo. I doubt a competent fitter would setup a bike they way it appears from that vantage point. It's probably just the photo.
We used the geobomized (or however you spell it) saddle pressure mapping. We also tried like 7 saddles before we found this one. We also did the 3D saddle angle mapping on it (part of the retul process). It's 100% confirmed to be setup where it's not putting any extra pressure on the hands. A GOOD fitter is going to use tools to measure every aspect of the setup, and NOT just go by some dumb rule of thumb about the saddle angle.

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BTW, don't judge the fitter's competence until you get some real miles in.

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This was a spare parts build of sorts. Hence the frankenbike appearance. All the matching Enve was moved over to the S-Works and just put what I had in the closet on this To get it rolling again.
And some people (like myself) like having the valve stem caps. The weight is negligible and not having my valves corroded shut from the marine air is a very nice thing.
And some people (like myself) like having the valve stem caps. The weight is negligible and not having my valves corroded shut from the marine air is a very nice thing.
