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Question about Seat Post Height

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Question about Seat Post Height

Old 08-10-08, 09:55 AM
  #1  
cpa4u
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Question about Seat Post Height

Ok,

Here's my goofy question of the day. Taking a look at the minimal amount of exposed seat post here, are you left with the feeling that there is a wus riding the bike?

The bike fits me. I just have short legs (30" inseam) for a 5'8" frame. Bike is a 51 ST/53.7 HT.

Yes, this is an ego deal. Just wondering how you 4" seat to handlebar drop guys look at this.

My next option would be to dump the bike for a Felt Z series.

Thanks for playing my silly little game..........................
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Old 08-10-08, 09:57 AM
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tinrobot
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Who cares about the seatpost. You put Shimano on an Italian bike. If you're into your ego being fed, then that's where you need to start.
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Old 08-10-08, 10:10 AM
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cpa4u
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i didnt put dura ace on the bike -the italian company spec'd the FP5 out that way.

but that's the spirit - what i was looking for - a smartass response.

thanks
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Old 08-10-08, 10:10 AM
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if you have to set the seat that far forward, I think the top tube is a bit long. frame may be too big, mho.
if this bike was fit to you by a LBS. hmm. but if you dig it.. who is to say
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Old 08-10-08, 10:13 AM
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it'd help to see a pic of you on the bike, one with your leg at extension, ones with the cranks at 3 o'clock.
in and of itself, there's nothing wrong with that seat height.
it's the fore aft that i wonder about.
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Old 08-10-08, 10:22 AM
  #6  
rizz
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Is it just the angle, or is your toe pointed in the straight leg shot?
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Old 08-10-08, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rizz
Is it just the angle, or is your toe pointed in the straight leg shot?
looks like the seat is too high. Your hips looked rocked as well
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Old 08-10-08, 10:37 AM
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Seat does look too high...I use to set my MTB seat too high like that when I rode it on the street. Didn't realize it was too high until I got fitted for my road bike. At 6 o'clock you should be able to have your foot flat and still have a little bend in your knee, shouldn't be rocking the hips at all.

Might just be the angle of the photo though.

I'm a newb to road biking, but I don't think the seat being forward is a big issue. I sat on a couple of different frames, all 54's as per inseam measurements, and ended up getting a CAAD9 in 54, but once I was fitted I had to have a seat post that mounted the saddle straight over the post and still pushed it all the way forward. Myabe I just have a short torso, I dunno, but the bike fits perfect.

Last edited by CaboWabo; 08-10-08 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 08-10-08, 11:04 AM
  #9  
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Well you asked. Now I'm sure we've convinced you that your position is all screwed up.
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Old 08-10-08, 11:51 AM
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i'd shorten your stem a cm or two, bring your hoods up a bit on the bar, lose a spacer, and maybe move the seat pack a couple/few mm's. you look too weight forward in general.
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Old 08-10-08, 12:24 PM
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ridethecliche
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Originally Posted by scuzzo
if you have to set the seat that far forward, I think the top tube is a bit long. frame may be too big, mho.
if this bike was fit to you by a LBS. hmm. but if you dig it.. who is to say
+1.

The saddle looks awkward so far on the rails, but if it works, it works. If anything, I'd get a non setback post to make it look better. If you want more drop, start taking off the spacers. There's nothing wrong with the seat height in my opinion.

I prefer bikes with less seatpost showing and the stem closer to the head tube. Unfortunately, that's not in the cards for me based on my body proportions.
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Old 08-10-08, 12:27 PM
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https://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...O_LINK=NOREDIR

It will give you full measurements... and with three frameset sizes, pick the one closest to yours and it'll give you the fit measurements for that bike (including BB to Saddle height, which is what you're looking for).

EDIT: if your frameset size isn't one of the three they give you, then your bike is out of your size.
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Old 08-10-08, 12:59 PM
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cpa4u
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Good Post! My kind of humor - REAL......

Honestly, thanks to all who have posted. It has helped. My problem is out here in BFE i dont have an LBS that carries inventory for me to try.

I think the bike can fit. Already considering a thomson seatpost which will subtract an inch or more from the seat setback and a 90mm stem which will subtract 2cm of reach. I DO feel like my LBS has me too far forward, which then makes me think the TT length and overall bike size is right for me.

i'm afraid i may just not have a body type for an italian cycle (by the way - i aint fat like the pictures, my shirt is just puffed out - 5'8"/150 lbs).

i'm about ready to list the thing on Ebay, net of the DT Swiss 1450's and the saddle for $2,750 and take my $700 loss, head to San Antonio/Austin next weekend and spend the day finding the right brand/fit.

AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH........
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Old 08-10-08, 01:02 PM
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LorenzoNF
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It was an ego deal when you got the Pinarello in the first place. So... go ahead and rationalize a new bike.
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Old 08-10-08, 01:09 PM
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I don't think you should move your seat back, it looks about right. Make a makeshift plum line and at 3 o'clock your knee should line up with the front of the crank.
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Old 08-10-08, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CaboWabo
I don't think you should move your seat back, it looks about right. Make a makeshift plum line and at 3 o'clock your knee should line up with the front of the crank.
not always true. many riders prefer the knee behinnd the pedal spindle.
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Old 08-10-08, 01:19 PM
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rizz
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Originally Posted by Surferbruce
not always true. many riders prefer the knee behinnd the pedal spindle.
And many prefer it in front.
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Old 08-10-08, 01:23 PM
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Gotcha. I'm just going off what I have read and what my lbs told me...and how they set me up. My MTB my knee was behind the pedal and it was giving me some slight pain in my knee and I noticed my road bike got rid of that.

At the very least it's a baseline .
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Old 08-10-08, 01:23 PM
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cpa4u
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yep.

except not so much ego, 'cause i know im not a good bike rider, but more about the bling factor.
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Old 08-10-08, 01:45 PM
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yeah. i've done the competitive cyclist calculator.

it tells me i need a 50.7 ST/55 TT for the Competitive Fit and a 51.5 ish ST/55 TT for the less aggresstive Eddy Fit.

So on the surface, my 51 seat tube is correct and my head tube is in the ballpark, if not a little on the small size.

But if it dont feel right, it dont feel right, huh?

just got through riding my trek 5000 54 with a 52 ST and 54.5 HT with the seat set back about an inch from where my Pinarello is set. Puts my knee nearly an inch behind the spindle best i can tell.

The ride was just as comfortable as it has been for the past 12,000 miles on it.

Back to my earlier post. I am convinced now that i just need to start over and ride as many brands as i can and find the right fit for my body size.

Anyone want the FP5 in showroom condition (retail $3,450 plus tax) without the crappy RS10 wheelset it comes with (ebay $150) and the Most saddle (again, Ebay $50) for $2,750 shipped? Speak now or watch for it on Ebay.
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Old 08-10-08, 06:50 PM
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I suppose I'm kind of like you. It matters to me how my bike looks (decent amount of post exposed, seat not way forward on the rails, longer moderate rise stem, not too many steerer spacers, etc) In order to achieve that you need to be very selective when it comes to choosing the right combination of top tube length, head tube length and seat tube angle. As far as how your bike looks I think you have enough exposed seat post to pass the OCP test. As far as the rest of your fit, in your pics you have your hands draped completely around the hoods. Is this your preferred hand position? Some folks like to grip just shy of the hoods. This technique change alone will lessen your reach requirements considerably and allow you to move your saddle back (of course when you move your saddle back you will need to lower it as well). Looks like you could rotate your bars up a hair as well. You can also go with short reach bars to further lessen your reach and get your saddle evern further back. If you can lessen your reach enough you may be able to take some of those steerer spacers out as well (assuming you can tolerate a little more bar drop). You might be able to get this bike set up and working well for you and meet all your OCP goals. At the very least by swapping out stems and maybe taking some spacers out you should be able to determine your perfect reach and the max amount of bar drop you can tolerate which in turn should allow to to figure what combinations of top tube length, head tube length and seat tube angle will work for you.

Last edited by OCRider2000; 08-10-08 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 08-10-08, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by OCRider2000
I suppose I'm kind of like you. It matters to me how my bike looks (decent amount of post exposed, seat not way forward on the rails, longer moderate rise stem, not too many steerer spacers, etc) In order to achieve that you need to be very selective when it comes to choosing the right combination of top tube length, head tube length and seat tube angle. As far as how your bike looks I think you have enough exposed seat post to pass the OCP test. As far as the rest of your fit, in your pics you have your hands draped completely around the hoods. Is this your preferred hand position? Some folks like to grip just shy of the hoods. This technique change alone will lessen your reach requirements considerably and allow you to move your saddle back (of course when you move your saddle back you will need to lower it as well). Looks like you could rotate your bars up a hair as well. You can also go with short reach bars to further lessen your reach and get your saddle evern further back. If you can lessen your reach enough you may be able to take some of those steerer spacers out as well (assuming you can tolerate a little more bar drop). You might be able to get this bike set up and working well for you and meet all your OCP goals. At the very least by swapping out stems and maybe taking some spacers out you should be able to determine your perfect reach and the max amount of bar drop you can tolerate which in turn should allow to to figure what combinations of top tube length, head tube length and seat tube angle will work for you.
Saddle fore aft is based on knee position and comfort, not reach to hoods. Stems exist for a reason.
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Old 08-10-08, 07:32 PM
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thanks for the honest feedback.

i just need to figure out whether to stick with this, try and dial in the sizing and ride it for a while and sell it used if it doesnt work...............or sell it as new now it and start over.

I will be in San Antonio this weekend and have already arranged to test ride a Cervelo RS and Felt's in both the F and Z series. I at least want to get a feel for how their geometry's will fit me before i decide to use the fp5 or sell it as new. Also may try out Kuota's geometry.

We'll see how they stack up. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-10-08, 07:37 PM
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My thoughts are if you like the way it feels and rides, then keep it. I can't imagine being concerned with looks ON the bike. I care that my bike looks good...I could care less how I look on it. Function over fashion imo.
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Old 08-10-08, 08:17 PM
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First post. I am very similar to the OP in size......5'9", 30-inch inseam.....and I ride 53 to 55 cm ST road frames comfortably (Paramount, Waterford)....in fact, the 53 feels a bit cramped length-wise. I've never had a proper fit, though, always figured it out myself from what feels right for me.

From your pictures showing your riding position, I would say your seat is a bit high, also. I like a bit more angle at the knee when the crank is at bottom. The seat also LOOKS high to me. I usually try to get an even level line between the saddle top and the handlebars. Seems to work for me, at least.

Roger
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