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The Clicking is Back... Again...

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The Clicking is Back... Again...

Old 08-27-08, 03:10 PM
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bikerboy869
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The Clicking is Back... Again... **UPDATE**

Hello everybody.

A little less than a month ago I had a thread about clicking that was coming from my cranks and BB area. The easy solution, or so I thought, was tightening the crank bolts. I did this and my next ride was SILENT! It was bliss. However, shortly there after, the clicks came back. The only thing is, they are not as prevalent as they were. It seems the clicking happens mostly when I am out of the saddle.

ie. If I am coming to a stop or a blind corner and stand keeping the cranks parallel to the road they creak and click like mad but are silent if I stay out of the saddle and pedal. Here is the tricky part... when I sit back down and pedal, the cranks creak again for a full revolution or so and then are silent and smooth.

I am at a loss. I am thinking it may be time to take her into the shop. I ruled out the bolts and the pedals, they are both secure and tight. Any thoughts on what it may be??

Last edited by bikerboy869; 09-11-08 at 11:27 AM. Reason: UPDATE
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Old 08-27-08, 03:15 PM
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Per the several Chin Ha-Ha-Haur threads lately, have you checked your rear QR lately? Tight enough?
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Old 08-27-08, 03:26 PM
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I did check it actually... both the back and front are solid. This is most Definitely coming from the crank/bb area because I can feel it when it happens.
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Old 08-27-08, 03:31 PM
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Do you have a spare set of pedals to use to rule them out for certain?
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Old 08-27-08, 03:36 PM
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Wear an iPod; the clicking will go away.
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Old 08-27-08, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Spreggy View Post
Do you have a spare set of pedals to use to rule them out for certain?
or the cleat/pedal interface. Lube a touch.

then turn on the iPod.
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Old 08-27-08, 03:41 PM
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Having the same issue

Bikerboy869,
Having the same exact issue as you are describing. Last week I had my local bike shop look at the issue and they repack the BB bearings.
I thought that fixed the issue, but after 20 miles and hitting the first hill, the noise came back.
My fellow riders now laugh at the noise, they say they can hear me as I pass them on a hill or when I am hammering on a flat. Going to visit the shop again tomorrow and see if they have any new ideas. I will pass along any new information.
By the way, I am riding a Felt F75 with the original FSA Gossamer crank. Please keep me in the loop if you find a solution.

-rif
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Old 08-27-08, 03:51 PM
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Thanks for the amazing helpful tips like:

Wear and ipod

That will surely solve the problem... SIKE!

Anyways, RIF (p.s. love the name as I played Riff in WSS a few years back) thanks for letting me know I'm not the only one dealing with this. It is laughable and somewhat embarrassing as you're passing someone going click click click ha. Anyways, I will keep you informed as you keep me informed. Hopefully we can figure this out. I have a Trek 1400 with the original Shimano 105 crank Good luck!!

-Kyle
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Old 08-27-08, 03:58 PM
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Uh, kinda strange... this just recently started happening to my bike as well. I've noticed:

-Only clicks around the top end of my right foot stroke (never any other place)
-Got a little better when I tightened the cranks, but didn't go away

=(
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Old 08-27-08, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RIF View Post
Bikerboy869,
Having the same exact issue as you are describing. Last week I had my local bike shop look at the issue and they repack the BB bearings.
I thought that fixed the issue, but after 20 miles and hitting the first hill, the noise came back.
My fellow riders now laugh at the noise, they say they can hear me as I pass them on a hill or when I am hammering on a flat. Going to visit the shop again tomorrow and see if they have any new ideas. I will pass along any new information.
By the way, I am riding a Felt F75 with the original FSA Gossamer crank. Please keep me in the loop if you find a solution.

-rif
I'm not sure what your LBS did, but I'm not aware of any modern bottom-bracket where the bearings can be "repacked". You can tighten everything in the BB area, but I wouldn't call that "repacking the BB bearings".
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Old 08-27-08, 05:57 PM
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I had these clicks about 5 weeks ago with a set of FSK K-force cranks. The clicks only happened at certain positions of the pedal stroke. Turns out the metal inserts that the pedals thread into (I use Keo's) unbonded from the carbon crank arms (both sides!) and gave my pedals a little extra float that I did not need.

Check to make sure there is no play in the pedals relative to the crank arms.
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Old 08-27-08, 06:02 PM
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Are you sure that you foot is not hitting the front derailleur cable? It sounds crazy, but it happens.

Sometimes, you have to torque the cranks down several times before they settle in. Bolts actually stretch a little.
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Old 08-27-08, 06:54 PM
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I believe you when you say the rear QR is solid. But tighten it some more. Really tight.

Could also be the headset, believe it or not. If there's any carbon in there, the contact points (any metal to carbon) may be causing it. Solution is a light film of lubrication at those points. To do so you have to remove the stem, disassemble the headset by removing the spacers and lifting the upper bearing ring. Lub away along that steerer tube, then reassemble. A few dabs of some kind of lithium lube smoothed thin (minimal amount) over the surface is enough. Oil will be temporary, as it will dry out eventually.
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Old 08-27-08, 07:50 PM
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I had a sort of click/double-click just past the top of my right pedal stroke, drove me batty. Tried other pedals and noise went away. Greased threads of original pedals, cranked 'em on. Silent now.
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Old 08-27-08, 09:19 PM
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bump... same deal here just want to see if any other suggestions. lube the rear stays. just a lite bit of lube to the metal on metal of the QR and the stay facing. im still chasing my creak.. peds next
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Old 08-27-08, 10:30 PM
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Tip: If they are external BB, then remove the cranks and make sure the interface between the bearing covers and the crank arms are CLEAN. Add some grease, then re-assemble. I had a clicking on my R600 cranks, and it turned out to just be dirt. Remember, these bearing-arm interfaces are exposed, so dirt can and will get in there, especially after rainy rides.
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Old 08-27-08, 11:34 PM
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A, I am 100% certain that my foot is not hitting any cables. I would hope that my foot is not close enough to the frame that this would happen anyways! B, There is 0% carbon on my bike. It is all alum. I will double check the rear QR but I have to ask, if infact it is this, would I be feeling the creak/clicks in in my feet when it happens?? I will triple check the pedals tomorrow, take them off and put on the pair I have on my mtb. I will take off the front fork last because I KNOW that is going to be a ***** because it is old threaded style.

Question:
How difficult is it to remove the cranks and BB to check out the whole unit and re lube it?
How difficult is it to remove a front fork and re lube it if it is threaded??

Thanks all!
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Old 08-27-08, 11:48 PM
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Even though you think it is coming from the BB/Crank area, you should check the torque on the cassette lock ring, that can also cause a clicking noise, while pedaling hard.

also check to make sure that the left crank arm is properly torqued onto the spindle, that can cause a clicking noise too. Remember, as loose as possible without any play.
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Old 08-28-08, 12:22 AM
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I had problems with my bb area making noise, I took everything apart, cleaned everything off and carefully put it all back together with a touch of grease and proper torque. Problem solved.
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Old 08-28-08, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bikerboy869 View Post
A, I am 100% certain that my foot is not hitting any cables. I would hope that my foot is not close enough to the frame that this would happen anyways! B, There is 0% carbon on my bike. It is all alum. I will double check the rear QR but I have to ask, if infact it is this, would I be feeling the creak/clicks in in my feet when it happens?? I will triple check the pedals tomorrow, take them off and put on the pair I have on my mtb. I will take off the front fork last because I KNOW that is going to be a ***** because it is old threaded style.

Question:
How difficult is it to remove the cranks and BB to check out the whole unit and re lube it?
How difficult is it to remove a front fork and re lube it if it is threaded??

Thanks all!

Every 700-800 miles my bike does the same thing as I sometimes ride in horribly mucky conditions. I can feel and hear clicks are certain parts of the pedal stroke. In my case, the noise usually originates from the contact points between the crank and bottom bracket just like Kergin. If not exactly the same, I'd bet it's your pedals/cleats, cranks, or bottom bracket. Don't waste your time and money parking your bike at the LBS. This is definitely something you can and should do yourself.

Remove the drivetrain, clean, and reassemble with fresh grease. With the right tools, it only takes a few minutes to get everything off the bike and maybe 30 minutes total. You'll need a hex wrench and bottom bracket tool.

To remove shimano cranks:
1) Loosten non-drive side crank arm hex bolts with hex wrench
2) Remove non-drive side plastic cap with specific tool (the little black plastic end on the Park Tool BBT-9)
3) Loosten non-drive side hex bolts further if needed and pull left crank arm off
4) Pull the right crank arm/chainring/spider through and off the bike. It may require a gentle tap to get started.

To remove Shimano bottom bracket:
1) Use bottom bracket tool to unscrew cups. Look at the arrows on the bottom bracket so you remember that you have to turn the driveside bottom bracket cup clockwise to remove.

Clean it up, apply fresh grease, and put it back together just like it came apart. You can torque the bottom bracket cups pretty hard, but remember that left crankarm bolts should be at about 100-125 inch pounds. I'd be surprised if this fails to resolve your issue.
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Old 08-28-08, 11:31 AM
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OK everybody, Here is where I'm at right now:

I have taken both cranks off with my crank puller and here is what I see:
The photos are of drive side and non drive respectively

I know I need a tool to get that bad boy out of there, BUT it is not the tool that was on the park website, I need less teeth. Keep in mind I have an older bike from around 1995 ish.

Any thoughts??
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Old 08-28-08, 11:41 AM
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HCW-5

to get the lock ring off.
SPA-6
to give minor adjustments when reinstalling
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Old 08-28-08, 11:43 AM
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Sorry all, my photo's did not show up... I'll try to fix that asap.
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Old 08-28-08, 12:00 PM
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Is there a doo-wap group following you around? Look behind you, you never know.
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Old 08-28-08, 12:05 PM
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awesome... thanks Molto ha. No, I don't believe there is a doo-wap group following me BUT I will keep a sharp eye out for those bastads
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