Ceramic bearings - yay or nay?
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Ceramic bearings - yay or nay?
Anyone who's actually used ceramic bearings AND is convinced they are a worthwhile upgrade? I'm mostly concerned with hub bearings and/or bottom brackets. A ceramic kit for Mavic Ksyrium Elites is only $75...at that price I figure why not?
#5
Aluminium Crusader :-)
From HED:
"There was a measurable drag difference between ceramic bearings and steel bearings when we tested unloaded wheels, but the difference was small enough that we could not measure it on a loaded wheel."
https://www.hedcycling.com/wheels/ceramicbearings.php
"There was a measurable drag difference between ceramic bearings and steel bearings when we tested unloaded wheels, but the difference was small enough that we could not measure it on a loaded wheel."
https://www.hedcycling.com/wheels/ceramicbearings.php
#6
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I have Token ceramic on my dura ace setup in RD pulleys and crank w/ FSA carbon pro.
Honestly...can't tell a noticeable difference when I switched /changed out.
Also can't tell a difference between my new dura ace pedals with 3 sets of spindel bearings over ultegra.
Marketing hype, which I bought into.
Honestly...can't tell a noticeable difference when I switched /changed out.
Also can't tell a difference between my new dura ace pedals with 3 sets of spindel bearings over ultegra.
Marketing hype, which I bought into.
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How much does it weigh?
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Like getting a membership to the Los Angeles County Bicycle Coalition.
Dubbayoo - you're in Palos Verdes, right?
Support a local organisation that supports all cyclists in LA County (and, really, when it comes down to it, Southern California)
Dubbayoo - you're in Palos Verdes, right?

#9
Chases Dogs for Sport
Nay. And remember that there are different grades of ceramic bearings. Lots of the stuff that's sold as "gee whiz" bicycle parts is of lower grade than the steel bearings they are replacing.
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Yup. Companies like Zipp and FSA, who show the small advantages with ceramic bearings, don't use the cheap stuff. If you want some actual performance advantage, and a small one at that, be ready to pay up.
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The mods changed this...
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I put an Enduro ceramic BB in my bike and it's waaay smoother than the Dura-Ace that came out. I've re-lubed the bearings twice in 6800 miles and that was just to tinker with it...it really didn't need lube. They also use a bigger bearing (I.D.) than D/A. The axle of the Shimano crank sits directly against the inside bearing surface, rather the plastic piece in a D/A BB.
The cost was nominal simply because I needed a new BB anyway.
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Here's the deal with Token:
They are on the right track as far as trying to get a full ceramic bottom bracket bearing on the market. The Tiramic coating is a very good idea and it works well. The problem with the Token bottom brackets isn't this coating, it's the bearings themselves. They chew. Hard. If you were to use Token's ceramic coated bearing races with some real ceramic bearings from Enduro or VNC and teflon retainers from Zipp or something, then you would be in freaking business.
They are on the right track as far as trying to get a full ceramic bottom bracket bearing on the market. The Tiramic coating is a very good idea and it works well. The problem with the Token bottom brackets isn't this coating, it's the bearings themselves. They chew. Hard. If you were to use Token's ceramic coated bearing races with some real ceramic bearings from Enduro or VNC and teflon retainers from Zipp or something, then you would be in freaking business.
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I have Token ceramic on my dura ace setup in RD pulleys and crank w/ FSA carbon pro.
Honestly...can't tell a noticeable difference when I switched /changed out.
Also can't tell a difference between my new dura ace pedals with 3 sets of spindel bearings over ultegra.
Marketing hype, which I bought into.
Honestly...can't tell a noticeable difference when I switched /changed out.
Also can't tell a difference between my new dura ace pedals with 3 sets of spindel bearings over ultegra.
Marketing hype, which I bought into.
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I notice Superfly has grade 3 bearings at twice the price of grade 5 bearings. I thought higher grade was better.
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...ro-Zero/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...g-Wheel/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...ro-Zero/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...g-Wheel/Detail
Last edited by Dubbayoo; 09-21-08 at 11:54 AM.
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My stance is always this: if you want an upgrade, buy the best steel bearing setup you can get and then spend the rest of the money you would be spending on ceramic on nicer tires instead.
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I notice Superfly has grade 3 bearings at twice the price of grade 5 bearings. I thought higher grade was better.
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...ro-Zero/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...g-Wheel/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...ro-Zero/Detail
https://www.superflycycles.com/servle...g-Wheel/Detail
An ABEC 10 race is manufactured to tighter tolerances than an ABEC 5 race.
Bearing grades are measured by the bearing's roundness. Lower is better, as that would indicate that the bearing is rounder.
A Grade 300 bearing is round to within 300/1000000 of an inch. A Grade 5 bearing is round to within 5/1000000 of an inch. Rounder is smoother and faster.
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incorrect
I haven't touched my BB or my wheel bearings since installing ceramics in them, 10,000 miles ago.
I haven't touched my BB or my wheel bearings since installing ceramics in them, 10,000 miles ago.
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Ceramic BB with DA Cranks, much smoother spinning than the DA BB.
=)
I got mine from the site sponsor link on the right: https://www.velocarbon.com/
=)
I got mine from the site sponsor link on the right: https://www.velocarbon.com/
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BB's, on the other hand... barring some major catastrophe, if you don't look, you're not likely to discover a problem, like the gunk buildup that's scratching the inner surfaces, or the friction that's slowly building up because it hasn't been cleaned.
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For bearing races a higher grade is better.
An ABEC 10 race is manufactured to tighter tolerances than an ABEC 5 race.
Bearing grades are measured by the bearing's roundness. Lower is better, as that would indicate that the bearing is rounder.
A Grade 300 bearing is round to within 300/1000000 of an inch. A Grade 5 bearing is round to within 5/1000000 of an inch. Rounder is smoother and faster.
An ABEC 10 race is manufactured to tighter tolerances than an ABEC 5 race.
Bearing grades are measured by the bearing's roundness. Lower is better, as that would indicate that the bearing is rounder.
A Grade 300 bearing is round to within 300/1000000 of an inch. A Grade 5 bearing is round to within 5/1000000 of an inch. Rounder is smoother and faster.
I swapped my Ksyrium Elite bearings with the ceramic ones. I could see the freewheel body bearing but couldn't figure out how to get to it. There's no doubt they spin longer unweighted, that's for sure. I won't have an outside ride til Saturday but hopefully something will feel better.
If this goes decently I'll replace the bearings in my Zipp 404's which were laced to Ultegra hubs. I wish I could lace a Powertap hub to a Ksyrium. I really like these wheels.
Last edited by Dubbayoo; 09-29-08 at 11:20 PM.
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I also wasted my cash on loose ceramic bearings for durace hubs , ceramic BB and pulley wheels