Giantdefy2rider

I'm completely new to road bikes. Today I purchased a 2013 Giant Defy 2 (L). I'm 5'10" and when I road it at the shop it felt very comfortable. Now that I have been reading i'm questioning if I bought the wrong size. Any help as to knowing if a large frame is correct for me. Thanks

Born2race

hey guys i have a cignal 7005 alluminum series bike frame and its pretty light can any one tell me how to make it faster and im on a budget.thank if u need any more info plz say

OHrider

Hi All,
I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for awhile. I got into biking last year when I started running triathlon's. I really enjoy it and have really taken to it. I am a Chiropractor and a long time car enthusiast who really enjoys building and racing anything with wheels. I don't know how I didn't get into this sooner as I now have a hobby for which I can apply human anatomy and biomechanics (what I do for a living) to a mechanical device with wheels (what I do for a hobby) that can be raced!!

I have two bikes I ride both Quintana Roo's the first is an older Kilo with road bars I picked up to get started. The second is CD0.1 which I recently picked up and will use for races. I also just picked up a Javelin Asti titanium/carbon frame set on ebay that I am planning to build as a cheap and lightweight short course hill climber TT bike. I am going to be looking for advice and suggestions on the build so I thought I would start here by introducing myself and saying Hi!
Chris

22wadds

I just did my first Group ride this weekend and was amazed by all the proper etiquette that goes with riding in groups. I'm trying to learn everything I can and I'm going to stay with the C group until I got it down. My question is what are some newbie mistakes? What things have you noticed over the years that irritate you about inexperienced riders? Thanks Adam

ArizonaAdam

I'm new to drop bars. I went on my first extended ride, 34 miles, and the hoods were not at all what I expected. My hands seemed to rotate down, sort of "rolling off" the hoods to the outside. Part of the problem was that gloves wern't helping and my hands were slipping inside the gloves, which fit sungly.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

zvez

I found this thread and have subscribed, I'm going to ask a question, that's probably been asked many times before.

I'm 53 and about to start out in biking. I'm in good physical shape, 6'2" and 170 pounds. I'd really like a road bike, but am a bit confused by the different types. It seems endurance, commute, etc. I plan to do short commutes to work (5 miles each way) and rides on the street and on a paved course that runs thru our city. So generally in the class of road bikes what type is good for that type of use?

I want a pretty good quality bike and components and my budget would be up to around $2500. I've been drooling at all the Specialized bikes. Fortunately we have a specialized dealer here in town and my friend is a rider and will be able to help as well.
Chris

GreatWhiteShark

Tom Stormcrowe,

What is so wrong with telling someone to search for it themselves? On many exchanges, offline and online, when I have learned (especially, long ago) and no longer remember where I got it from, I tell people to Duck Duck Go it, used to tell them to go google it- Righties, Spies and Users Information Sellers.
", as well as responses that don't attempt to answer the question (eg., "use the search") though links to relevant threads are appreciated."

Thank you, for the introductory post, nice job; however, I must point out, that the following part is just excuses for rude and bad behavior. It really does not matter who or what or Etc. one classifies or believes one is how one act is their own fault.

"After you've gotten comfortable and want to post more, let me fill you in a bit on the culture in the Road Cycling world.

Road Cyclists are in general highly competitive athletes, and can be a bit rough in their humor. Sarcasm and insults can and do occur, so you're going to need a bit of a thick skin in here. They aren't meant in malice (generally). It's just their aggressive, cutting humor, often with a razors edge. Think of them as an athletic versions of George Carlin, Billy Connolly, or Chris Rock. Just like riding with a new group of cyclists, it may be a good idea to sit in the back, to get a feel for the group, before you jump into the thick of things.

Now that you've been warned about the average road cyclist, enjoy the fun, grab the gems of information here, and always remember to keep a good hold on your sense of humor. They might yell at you from time to time, but they really do generally mean it to be constructive. If you see a bit of bantering back and forth between members, it's their way of hashing out differing opinions and is usually settled with a cyber handshake."

goldfinch

Interesting, I've never seen this thread before. It looks like questions are rarely answered. It might be a good idea if people have a question to start a new thread with the question in the appropriate forum.

chil2makefun

if it weren't for your post i wouldn't know this thread either

daihard 

I scanned through this thread (yes, I'll be honest, I didn't read all the posts). I wasn't able to find the answer to this question of mine.

What is the definition of "Road Cycling" in the context of this forum?

Wikipedia says "Road Cycling is the most widespread form of cycling. It includes recreational, racing, and utility cycling." I don't think the same definition is used here. Is it more like "road racing cycling"?

SkippyMcJimmy

What's a good way to test different groupsets to see which you prefer the most? I feel bad about going into an LBS to test bikes that I have no intention of purchasing. Also, no cyclist friends.

GreatWhiteShark

I am not sure, as I have had only 3 or 4-bicycles in my entire life and I am not an expert.

What is The LBS? Same name for the former religious sect/cult, I think?

Well, you are on here now, plenty of opportunities to make plenty of bicycle friends; sorry, if that is too sappy, for you.

brucelee

I remember when I was first beginning to ride, developing actual riding skills was more than enough to handle without throwing in the intricacies of cycling culture on top of it. I want to assure all you new riders out there that it will all come in stride.

Just never lose the ability to laugh at yourself. Thick skin is important to cyclists in more ways than one.

FlatSix911

The Rules ...

RRT

I have two questions. #1- I currently ride a Cannondale Supersix 3 Ultegra full carbon. The bike is super fast and stiff and I have resolved all issues since purchase. I am now going to buy a new Trek Domane for long charity rides. Although comfortable with Ultegra, I would like to know what the differences are in better drivetrain options. Question #2- Of the 2014 Trek domane 6 series, what are the differences as described by 6.2 and 6.9c ?

Thanks

Traian G.

Hi RRT,

I'm also a newcomer to this forum, but I've been riding road bikes for quite a while now, so I'll offer you my answers.

#1 - Well, I guess the Domane is also Shimano-equipped, right? And I assume that you don't intend to go below the Ultegra line either. So, as the Ultegra is the more affordable, and less performant version of the Dura-Ace set, you can go for the same gears you already used on your Cannondale. I consider that using another set of gears is necessary only if the current one doesn't suit you for various reasons. It also has to do with your riding targets, I believe. If you plan on riding more on flat, maybe a cassette with cogs that have fewer teeth might come in hand. Or if you plan on conquering mountains, maybe some lower sprockets would be useful. Anyway, the aid offered won't be substantial (it's still bloody hard to climb a difficult slope, no matter how low are your gears!), but it can make a difference. Also, if you're more into sportive/charitable riding, it may be a good idea to try out a compact drivetrain, even if it wouldn't sit well on a Domane (my opinion).

#2 - Specifications differ - the 6.9 is equipped with the Dura-Ace set, and greater Bontrager parts (wheels, saddle, handlebar) while the 6.2 has an Ultegra set. Otherwise, they have the same frameset, so probably your fitness level will determine how good you are

Hope it helps!

wrangler2002

Hey guys im new to this websight and also new to cycling I recently move from PA to Myrtle Beach. im loving it down here but there is not much mountain biking. so I am thinking abut getting into road biking. I narrowed down which bike I want to get by two. the first and it is my favorite is a FELT Z95. I have also been looking at a Specialized secteur sport. now the secteur was listed for just over a 1000 but the owner said he would give it to me for 800 even this particular secteur has sora components but a tiagra rear derailer. the frame appears to be the frame specialized is using for the disk break model for 2014 but the bike does not have disk breakes on it. so I am a little skeptical about the frame component combo BC I cannot find it anywhere on the specialized web sight. the bikeis new but it looks like he had a frame and put amix of components on it so im looking for some general advice o which bike to buy. I appreciate any help thanks

cmark84

Looked at the 2014 Specialized models online, and these are the two I've decided on: Secteur Expert Disc and Roubaix SL4 Sport SRAM Disc.

The LBS does not have either model in the 2014 model.

I plan on going back today and hopefully the '13 models are not much different so I can get a better idea of the two and put a deposit to order one. The shop said I can switch around my deposit on the bikes if I end up not liking it. I'm assuming they'll let me switch the one or maybe two times until I find the right one.

This is my first road bike since a teenager. I'm looking to buy a bike that I can ride several miles on comfortably. I'm 6'2 and 230lbs. My goals with the bike are enjoyment, weight loss, and fitness going forward. I don't plan to enter any competitions, but I want a bike that offers comfort, light weight, and ability to travel long distances. I wouldn't mind going on group rides either if any exist out in the area.

I was told these two models are endurance bikes. I'm just not sure if its worth the extra $900 to step up to a Carbon bike. There are some hills in my area, so I want to be able to go up them without much issue.

I have the money to buy either but I rather not have to spend the $900 more unless its very well worth it. Then I have to factor in cost of gear, bike attachment, etc..

Thoughts?

Newbiecyclist39

deleted

pseghesio

I'm pretty new to cycling, and have fallen in love with it. I recently purchased the 2014 Trek Domane 2.0 and it's treating me very well thus far. I'm 23 and have grown up playing sports, so I am a fairly competitive guy and am in rather good shape. I just have a few questions. 1) I am interested in maybe participating in racing down the road when I become more comfortable with riding. I'm not too sure where to start though. Can someone point me to some common cycling programs? Also, if I do get into racing, would the Trek Domane 2.0 do well in racing conditions?

Canada123

First post,

The question is regarding riding it pairs. I've seen in videos where in a group ride the front of the pack will peel off to the left and drop to the back of the group (correct me if I'm wrong). My question is in regards to the etiquette or best practice in riding in pairs, would the rider on the back "leap frog" and pass the rider in the front when ready, or would the same practice in a group ride take place where the lead rider would peel off to the back?

Road cycling newb, thanks for the help. I tried searching the topic but couldn't find the exact answer I don't think.

bdcheung

Welcome to the forum! What you're describing is a 'paceline'. Here is a simple video that explains how a paceline works:

When the rider(s) on the front have finished their turn (in cycling we call it a 'pull'), they move to the side and slow their pace. The rest of the paceline, continuing at the original pace, will then pass them so that they can re-join the paceline at the very back.

Generally, the lead rider will signal his intent to pull off either by flicking his elbow (most common) or using some other hand signal, agreed upon by the group, to indicate he/she is pulling off.

Canada123

Great thanks, definitely going to take some practice.

bdcheung

Advisable to only attempt rotating pace lines once you're comfortable riding close with other people, and also only with people you trust (and whose skills you trust).

NorcoRyder

Hey guys, I just bought my first road bike from my local shop, just waiting on it to come back with my fitted measurements. I just need help on shifting. I have the shimano all in one shifters/brakes. I know that the left controls the front and the right controls the back. however I don't know which lever puts it in what gear (ex. does the little shifter put it from a smaller cog to a bigger one?) I just don't know which direction the shifters put the gears in. any help would be great if you guys understand this.