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-   -   Your Most Recent Cycling-related Purchase (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/508535-your-most-recent-cycling-related-purchase.html)

Sy Reene 12-06-19 12:37 PM


Originally Posted by phtomita (Post 21235572)
So GP5000 size won't balloon as GP4000?
I know I can't fit a GP4SII 700x28 on my Tri-A.
Would it somehow fit a GP5 700x28 from above? The place that rubs is the cross bar on seat stay where you have the brake caliphers attached when I tried the 700x28 GP4.

For my commuter, currently on GP4 700x28 thinking going cheap for the Ultra Sport II 700x32, or try the GP5 700x32 - that from above seems will be similar to what I have currently?

From this comparison review at BRR, see the below actual measured width and height on their wheel. You could try and measure your GP4s to determine difference.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...000-comparison
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e20d365ece.jpg

burnthesheep 12-06-19 01:19 PM


Originally Posted by zacster (Post 21234666)
I have my rear wheel off because the bike is on the trainer and have it up next to the front wheel. The rear GP4000 is clearly wider than the GP5000 in front. This then begs the question, if a GP5000 in a 25 is the same size as a GP4000 in a 23, where is the advantage? Just because it is stated as being larger it won't make much difference on the ride over what I have if in actuality it is the same size.

In any case I'm not going to pin any improvement on a few mm of tire width.

New CRR improvement regardless of sizes. Apparently about 12% improvement (a watt per tire).

I went from 23mm 4000's on a wheelset to 25mm rear and 23mm front gp5000 on a wider wheelset recently and the CRR change at low speeds was noticeable. Like, I could see fewer watts routinely when just farting around at like 15mph to 17mph.

Also, the geometry isn't 1:1 that a 4000 23mm is now a 5000 25mm. It's somewhere in between. So, since it's in between you "might" be able to fit something different there.

melikebikey35 12-06-19 03:51 PM

Thanks to a killer Black Friday deal, I was able to pick up a R5 frameset...with the slickest color scheme I've ever seen.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3df23c13ca.jpg

MoAlpha 12-06-19 04:36 PM


Originally Posted by melikebikey35 (Post 21235880)
Thanks to a killer Black Friday deal, I was able to pick up a R5 frameset...with the slickest color scheme I've ever seen.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3df23c13ca.jpg

Oh, that is nice!

Sy Reene 12-06-19 05:16 PM

Very Christmasy

melikebikey35 12-06-19 05:36 PM


Originally Posted by Sy Reene (Post 21235949)
Very Christmasy

I never looked at it that way, but now that you mentioned it...it is pretty festive looking, isn't it?

zacster 12-07-19 08:26 AM


Originally Posted by Sy Reene (Post 21235632)
From this comparison review at BRR, see the below actual measured width and height on their wheel. You could try and measure your GP4s to determine difference.
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance...000-comparison

If I had a caliper I could measure both GP4 and GP5 since I have one of each on my bike at the moment on identical rims. It would be interesting to see. Maybe it's worth a trip to Harbor Freight to pick up a cheap one, although my experience with HF is not very good. Lots of cheap crap. You get what you pay for, so maybe HD or Lowes instead. All three are within shouting range of each other.

After all, no weekend is complete without a trip to Home Depot or Lowes.

noodle soup 12-07-19 10:01 AM


Originally Posted by zacster (Post 21236473)
After all, no weekend is complete without a trip to Home Depot or Lowes.


Noctilux.95 12-07-19 10:34 AM

New Enve 7.8ís on my Madone SLR.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a9c4a5837.jpeg

ThinLine 12-07-19 11:04 AM

Gorgeous Bike.

Cyclist75354986865 12-07-19 06:02 PM

What handlebars on on the Madone? That is a fantastic looking bike.

Noctilux.95 12-07-19 07:44 PM

Those are the Speed Concept tri-bars that connect to the top of Madone's stem cap. They bolt on or off in about five minutes.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7ec6e54217.jpg

travelerman 12-09-19 02:58 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b52e56dbd.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab93646959.jpgDipping my toe into the gravel pool... certainly not the sexiest, lightest, or best-outfitted option on the market, but it's a comfortable ride for a great price (2018 closeout, the best way to buy, IMHO).

travelerman 12-09-19 08:54 PM

...and no, the reflectors on the wheels are not staying.

CarloM 12-10-19 11:31 AM

Easily one of the better $20 investments I've made in my bikes.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04fba26e20.jpg

Since all of my tires are tubeless, and I cycle between riding my bikes, sometimes several days will go by between rides on a particular one. What I find frustrating on my pump (Bontrager dual pump for both HP and HV tires) is that attaching and detaching the pump often results in significant air loss. With the JACO, there's almost no loss of pressure at attachment or detachment, what little there is, it's just a small fraction of what happens with the floor pump. This lets me check my air pressure quickly, and if it's within the desired range, I know it will still be there even when I detach it.

Also the bleed valve is cool because, as I mentioned with the Bontrager pump, if I want to pump something up to 65psi, I have to overshoot it by a bit and hope that it's a clean detachment, otherwise I may bleed out more air than intended. With the JACO, if I slightly overshoot the PSI with the pump, I can accurately bleed it down to exactly where I want it, knowing the JACO only loses a tiny amount of air.

For those who are interested in buying, there is a warning on the Amazon page that this is intended for higher pressures up to 160psi, "if you want 60psi or less you should buy the 60psi version". The problem there is that the 60psi version maxes at that pressure. So if you're like me and have a gravel bike you run at 45, and road bikes you run at 65 or higher, it seems you have to buy both. You don't. This measures my gravel bike tires just fine and lines up well with the Bontrager measurement (within 1psi of each other) whether I'm doing the gravel or road tires. Maybe at sub-60 psi the other device is more accurate, or has finer measurement gradations, but I find this to be good enough for all my tires. Now if you are a MTBer perhaps the lower psi model makes sense...since I' m not I can't speak to that.

woodcraft 12-10-19 01:00 PM

A spoke.
It was $1 with free shipping. Felt bad so I ordered 5.

jadocs 12-10-19 01:13 PM


Originally Posted by woodcraft (Post 21240531)
A spoke.
It was $1 with free shipping. Felt bad so I ordered 5.

Did you do it separately?

GnipGnop 12-10-19 03:00 PM

Bought this little bike wall mount. I wanted something small and clean looking, and this fits the bill nicely. Only downside is you have to keep the tires inflated or your bike will fall out of the rack. Not a big deal for me though. I found one on craigslist for $10 after seeing them in a bike store for $25.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...473c08408.jpeg

noodle soup 12-10-19 05:42 PM


Originally Posted by travelerman (Post 21239369)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b52e56dbd.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ab93646959.jpgDipping my toe into the gravel pool... certainly not the sexiest, lightest, or best-outfitted option on the market, but it's a comfortable ride for a great price (2018 closeout, the best way to buy, IMHO).

I like the way you describe the bike here. Itís not exciting, but itís gonna be a fun gateway drug.

burnthesheep 12-10-19 06:21 PM


Originally Posted by travelerman (Post 21239808)
...and no, the reflectors on the wheels are not staying.

I have always thought the side reflections are a bit late since the car only saw the reflection likely 2 seconds before they hit you.

Bright front lights ftw. If you look like a car headlight coming, better.

CarloM 12-10-19 06:27 PM


Originally Posted by burnthesheep (Post 21240886)
I have always thought the side reflections are a bit late since the car only saw the reflection likely 2 seconds before they hit you.

Bright front lights ftw. If you look like a car headlight coming, better.

+1. I don't use any wheel/pedal reflectors. Powerful headlight and tail-light, and if you can get a head- and tail-light with the "viewable from the side" feature, that's better than reflectors.

canklecat 12-11-19 12:09 AM


Originally Posted by burnthesheep (Post 21240886)
I have always thought the side reflections are a bit late since the car only saw the reflection likely 2 seconds before they hit you.

Bright front lights ftw. If you look like a car headlight coming, better.


Originally Posted by CarloM (Post 21240893)
+1. I don't use any wheel/pedal reflectors. Powerful headlight and tail-light, and if you can get a head- and tail-light with the "viewable from the side" feature, that's better than reflectors.

Best side visibility at night is with wheel mounted LEDs. Nothing else makes a bike pop out of the background clutter of other cars and city lights like rotating LEDs. They add a little weight and I use 'em only on my hybrids for casual rides and errands. But I may add some to my steel road bike since it won't add significant weight.

For now my compromise is helmet lights, little but bright USB blinkies strapped front and rear. I got 4 years of regular use, several times a week, from a Blackburn 2'Fer before its runtime per charge significantly decreased.

bpcyclist 12-11-19 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by canklecat (Post 21241148)
Best side visibility at night is with wheel mounted LEDs. Nothing else makes a bike pop out of the background clutter of other cars and city lights like rotating LEDs. They add a little weight and I use 'em only on my hybrids for casual rides and errands. But I may add some to my steel road bike since it won't add significant weight.

For now my compromise is helmet lights, little but bright USB blinkies strapped front and rear. I got 4 years of regular use, several times a week, from a Blackburn 2'Fer before its runtime per charge significantly decreased.

I rely on my helmet-mounted Cygolite Metro Pro 1100 headlight. It probably isn't as effective as if it were constantly firing both left and right of me, but when I look directly at a driver, I have not yet had one fail to very quickly see me and when required, stop immediately. This happened just last night in town coming home from the local Pearl District Safeway. My normal route home (it's just a mile or so) has stop signs for me at every single block. It's fine, I am never in a hurry in town. However, there is one section where I can go two whole blocks (!) without stopping because the crossing street there does have its own stop sign. Cars there never want to stop for me. There must be a dark spot or something for them, but they often do not see my very bright bar lights. It's weird, they just don't seem to see them. So, I always slow way down there and assume some vehicle is going to either roll or totally blow through that stop. It's just what happens. Happened again last evening. Car rolled up, slowed, then began accelerating as it was clearly my right of way to move on through the intersection. I immediately almost stopped and turned directly toward the driver. She finally saw my headlight, then me, hit her brakes, waved apologetically, and I moved through the intersection without being hit.

The helmet light has proven to be very effective for me as a 'be seen' measure as well as a 'see' measure. I wouldn't give it up for the world.

Princess_Allez 12-11-19 06:39 AM


Originally Posted by CarloM (Post 21240405)
Easily one of the better $20 investments I've made in my bikes.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...04fba26e20.jpg

Coming from the motorbike world, I know how important correct pressure can be. I picked this up too. It works well and accurately tells me how far off my Lezyne floor pump is (~8psi over). I adjust pressure before every ride.

CarloM 12-11-19 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by Princess_Allez (Post 21241259)
Coming from the motorbike world, I know how important correct pressure can be. I picked this up too. It works well and accurately tells me how far off my Lezyne floor pump is (~8psi over). I adjust pressure before every ride.

Phew I was worried I was just OCD...or maybe we both are! :lol:

To give Bontrager's pump credit, it was within 1psi of this, so it's pretty accurate. It just is annoying that the way it attaches and detaches is so finicky, sometimes I'll only lose 1psi or less, others a lot more. And I could never use the Bonty to check pressure because of the loss both ways, so even if my psi was close to where I wanted it, by checking it I'd lose maybe a combined 3psi. So now the JACO gives me confidence in checking knowing that I'll lose less than half a PSI (probably much less) in the process. This helped me confirm that my new tubeless GravelKings sealed properly overnight after the first ride because I lost only 1 psi overnight vs. the first night I set them up (and prior to my first ride) where I lost 4-5 psi and I thought I screwed it up.

EDIT: I will say this, as a slight amendment to my previous post. If you do primarily live in the sub-60psi range, the other version does make sense, because the gradations here are 2psi with each hash mark. I know people running in the 20s and 30s may want hash marks that are down to a single psi point. In fact, I'm so happy with this one that I'm contemplating getting that specifically for the gravel bike (and any future MTB I might decide to buy) and reserve this one for my road bikes.

2nd EDIT: I see on Amazon's page the 60psi version's hash marks still equal 2psi jump (so there are 5 hash marks between 10 psi differences) but the hashmarks are much further spaced apart, so it would be easier to tell when you're at an odd-number PSI than on the 160 version. So their recommendation is accurate, if you primarily do sub-60, buy that version, but this one will do both, it's just that the hash marks are closer together which will give you less fine readings at lower pressure.


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