Wheel Rebuild... what rim??!
02-12-09, 02:09 PM
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94 Trek 1400
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Wheel Rebuild... what rim??!
Hello All!
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
02-12-09, 02:14 PM
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Hello All!
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
02-17-09, 01:47 PM
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94 Trek 1400
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Actually my rear rim is a Matrix with a Shimano 105 hub. My front rim is Mavic and also has a 105 hub.
02-17-09, 02:36 PM
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You should have either 126mm or 130mm spacing. Depending on your wheel you can just take out an axle spacer and re dish the wheel
If your friends have 130mm space rear wheels i would try putting one of their wheels in your frame to see if it works.
$200 is a lot for rim, spokes, and labor for one wheel.
If your friends have 130mm space rear wheels i would try putting one of their wheels in your frame to see if it works.
$200 is a lot for rim, spokes, and labor for one wheel.
02-17-09, 05:27 PM
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Hello All!
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
SO, here is the deal, the rear rim on my trek 1400 has cracked and needs to be replaced. I was looking into new wheels, however, I discovered that because of my 128mm rear dropouts that a new wheels wont fit properly. I really don't feel like spending 400+ on new wheels only to cause myself to need a new bike by breaking the rear stays. After talking with some biking buddies, I have decided to look into having a new wheel built on my old hubs, which to the best of my knowledge are just fine. After some research and a few calls, it looks like for around 200 or so dollars I can have a new rear wheel put together, depending on what rim I use.
This is where YOU ALL come in.
What rims should I be looking at? I live in Chicago so I kind of need something that is bombproof considering all the stupid pot holes. When I was looking at new wheels, I was heavily looking at the ROL Volant due to their great reviews and low price point. However, sadly, ROL wheels dont sell just the rims. Any other thoughts on the matter??
JensonUSA (and others) have complete wheel sets for around $250
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Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
02-17-09, 05:35 PM
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Road hubs for 8/9/10 speed wheels are 130mm. They will fit in your 126mm drop outs without problems. You can't cold set the 1400 if it's an aluminum bike but there's enough spring in the frame to force a 130mm wheel into the space. 4mm is about 1/8".
JensonUSA (and others) have complete wheel sets for around $250
JensonUSA (and others) have complete wheel sets for around $250
02-17-09, 06:03 PM
#12
Aluminium Crusader :-)
You can get DT RR 1.2 rims for about $80 US.
I've got four sets of them. They seem to be as strong and stiff as any other 30mm rim I've had, including Mavic CXP30s, Deep Vs and Rigida DP18s.
They're also one of the better looking rims that are available as a 'rim only'
I've got four sets of them. They seem to be as strong and stiff as any other 30mm rim I've had, including Mavic CXP30s, Deep Vs and Rigida DP18s.
They're also one of the better looking rims that are available as a 'rim only'
02-17-09, 06:25 PM
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Wow... you guys need some C&V injected into this. 128mm drop outs DO exist on older aluminum bikes and steel bikes. It was in a transition period between the 126mm standard and the current 130mm standard (There was also one between the old 120mm and 126mm standard, usually 122.5 or 123). It allowed people to use either their 126OLD wheels or their new 130OLD wheels. Aluminum has enough flex to allow putting a hub that is only 2mm wider in, same for 2mm narrower.
Buy a new wheel with a 130OLD and you'll be fine, don't over think it.
-Gene-
Buy a new wheel with a 130OLD and you'll be fine, don't over think it.
-Gene-
02-17-09, 06:28 PM
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Wow... you guys need some C&V injected into this. 128mm drop outs DO exist on older aluminum bikes and steel bikes. It was in a transition period between the 126mm standard and the current 130mm standard (There was also one between the old 120mm and 126mm standard, usually 122.5 or 123). It allowed people to use either their 126OLD wheels or their new 130OLD wheels. Aluminum has enough flex to allow putting a hub that is only 2mm wider in, same for 2mm narrower.
Buy a new wheel with a 130OLD and you'll be fine, don't over think it.
-Gene-
Buy a new wheel with a 130OLD and you'll be fine, don't over think it.
-Gene-
132.5mm is the new 128mm
02-17-09, 10:26 PM
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You can get DT RR 1.2 rims for about $80 US.
I've got four sets of them. They seem to be as strong and stiff as any other 30mm rim I've had, including Mavic CXP30s, Deep Vs and Rigida DP18s.
They're also one of the better looking rims that are available as a 'rim only'
I've got four sets of them. They seem to be as strong and stiff as any other 30mm rim I've had, including Mavic CXP30s, Deep Vs and Rigida DP18s.
They're also one of the better looking rims that are available as a 'rim only'
02-18-09, 09:10 AM
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Yep, 30mm.
I've got 2 regular wheels and a powertap wheel build using the RR 1.2s.
I've got 2 regular wheels and a powertap wheel build using the RR 1.2s.
02-18-09, 09:21 AM
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There are frames out there that use 132.5mm dropout spacing so that either a modern 130mm road hub or 135mm mountain bike hub can be easily used. A Surly Cross Check is a good example. There are others.
The term "cold setting" shouldn't be confused with simply flexing the stays apart a little, or squeezing them together with the QR a bit. When you cold set a frame you bend the stays permanently, so that the frame ends up with different dropout spacing than it had before. That's not what you need to do here. You're not going to hurt your aluminum frame by flexing it apart a couple of millimeters, that's why they used 128mm dropout spacing in the first place, so that you could easily use a 126mm hub or a 130mm hub.
The term "cold setting" shouldn't be confused with simply flexing the stays apart a little, or squeezing them together with the QR a bit. When you cold set a frame you bend the stays permanently, so that the frame ends up with different dropout spacing than it had before. That's not what you need to do here. You're not going to hurt your aluminum frame by flexing it apart a couple of millimeters, that's why they used 128mm dropout spacing in the first place, so that you could easily use a 126mm hub or a 130mm hub.
02-18-09, 09:47 AM
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As stated by others, 6 and 7 speed wheels are 126 mm wide, 8/9/10 are 130 mm wide. Some companies set the rear dropout spacing at 128 mm so people could use either size; spreading 2 mm either up or down is NO issue.
As to a new wheel, it seems silly to spend $150 - $200 lacing up a new rim into an old 105 7 speed hub. I suggest you search craigslist in your area for a good used wheel and save your money for a bike upgrade in a couple of years.
As to a new wheel, it seems silly to spend $150 - $200 lacing up a new rim into an old 105 7 speed hub. I suggest you search craigslist in your area for a good used wheel and save your money for a bike upgrade in a couple of years.
02-18-09, 01:03 PM
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Don't bend the frame permanently (cold setting) but just flex it outward a little when you put the wheel in the drop out. Changing a flat is a little more difficult but the frame will be fine.
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Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
02-19-09, 01:41 PM
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So it seems I am getting mixed reviews. I HONESTLY don't have the money, to where if the rear stay racked, to buy a new bike. That is just NOT in the cards. However, I also dont like the idea of having to pay half of what it would cost to get a SET of the ROL wheels. It seems a little silly. It is a 1995 Trek 1400 with an alu frame and has seen a lot of miles. I bought it used, so the number is uncertain to me. That is why I'm iffy about flexing the frame of a 14 year old bike with x number of miles.
How about this. If I get a new wheel set and the frame cracks, YOU all can throw me some cash to help me get a new bike! haha! I mean, that sounds fair enough right?
As for price, I called about 4 different shops in the Chicago area and they all said around 150 to 200. So I went high just to be conservative.
How about this. If I get a new wheel set and the frame cracks, YOU all can throw me some cash to help me get a new bike! haha! I mean, that sounds fair enough right?
As for price, I called about 4 different shops in the Chicago area and they all said around 150 to 200. So I went high just to be conservative.
02-19-09, 02:12 PM
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A new frame, at the same lvl, can be had for less than the cost of the new wheel.
What type of cogset does this use?
What type of cogset does this use?
02-19-09, 02:14 PM
#24
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I have a scandnium frame that is 132.5 and I have to squeeze the stays in to fit road hubs (all I ride on it). I also have a steel frame with 126 and I have to flex them apart to fit 130 road hubs. Either way works fine and I don't think I am damaging either frame. You should be fine squeezing 130 hubs into that frame.
02-19-09, 02:24 PM
#25
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If you're near Chicago, call the Working Bikes bike co-op and see if they have a high-quality used aluminum rim in stock. I volunteer at a co-op down here in NOLA so I don't know what they have but I know that we have some very nice (hard anodized, double walled) rims that'll sell for 15 bucks each. If you take the time to learn from their mechanics how to build the wheel up yourself using their parts and tools, you could walk away with a great wheel for less than 50 bucks. (a guess at their prices) You could also buy the rim and take it to a for-profit bike shop for the rebuild.
You DONT have to spend hundreds of dollars for nice bike parts!
You DONT have to spend hundreds of dollars for nice bike parts!