Do you have to adjust your RD when swapping wheelsets?
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Do you have to adjust your RD when swapping wheelsets?
I'm thinking about getting a second wheelset for my CX bike. One set up for road, and a wider set for commuting/trails etc. . . Do you guys with multiple wheelsets have to adjust your rear DR after swapping, or is the cassette alignment consistent enough that no adjustment is required?
Thanks
Thanks
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Good question! In theory, you shouldn't have to do any adjustments and many people don't. However I find I have to make very minor adjustments just to keep shifting as crisp as possible.
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if they're the same hub, no.
if they are not the same hub, then it's recommended, since mostly all hubs that are not the same make and model will not line up 100%.
if they are not the same hub, then it's recommended, since mostly all hubs that are not the same make and model will not line up 100%.
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Also, if you have one wheel with a 12-23 and another with a 12-27 or something you may have to adjust there too
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+1. When you switch them for the first time, check the limit screw adjustments. That's where the potential for real disaster is, especially the low limit screw. And if the largest cog is bigger on the new wheelset, you may need a longer chain. That's another area that could cause disaster (too short a chain).
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Glad I asked. I never thought about possible chain length issues with different cassettes, etc. . . Sounds like it would be a good idea to use the same hubs and cassettes for both sets.
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I don't
I have a HED, Velomax, and Shimano wheel with a 23, 25, and 27 cassette. They are all 10 speed and I switch them and don't have to adjust my RD. The chain is a little short with the 27 but I don't have any problem.
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+1. When you switch them for the first time, check the limit screw adjustments. That's where the potential for real disaster is, especially the low limit screw. And if the largest cog is bigger on the new wheelset, you may need a longer chain. That's another area that could cause disaster (too short a chain).
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There's no such thing as a chain that's "a little short." It will either allow a shift into the large cog/large chainring, or it won't. If it won't, it's too short. The pat answer from people who've never seen derailleurs snapped off, bent dropouts, broken spokes, etc. from this is "well, I never go into the large/large combo anyway." If the chain's too short, it only takes one brain lapse.
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I have a road bike and a time trial bike, both with 12-25 cassettes. I use my Powertap wheel on both bikes and almost never have to make a RD adjustment when I change wheels (occasionally a click or two on the barrel adjuster).