Handlebar tape. Start where?
 

One thing has changed since was a kid and that is the way Handlebars are taped. Is there a reason for starting at the end working in to the stem and hoping some tape will hold it in place?

The method you cite keeps the exposed edge of the tape from peeling back due to hand pressure at the upper bends of the bar. This has always been an issue, but more so with modern tape that has both less adhesive and more elasticity than the cotton and Benotto tape that used to predominate. Having to perform a finishing wrap of electrical tape (or similar) near the stem is, as you note, the downside.

Jack

If you wrap it backwards your hands will tend to peel the tape up when you hold the bars right behind the hoods. Wrap it from the inside-out so it's going forward on the bar tops; this makes the forward force you exert riding on the tops a tightening instead of loosening one.

The "standard" method for taping is to wrap so that on the right drop you wrap CCW and the left drop you wrap CW. The goal is to end up so that on the tops the tape wraps towards you, since most people pull on the handlebars, this will tighten rather than loosen the tape.

HOWEVER.

If done properly, bartape can be taped backwards (starting near the stem and going to the drops) so that no tape is needed. The concept here of course is that the bar "tape" is used as the tape near the stem to hold it in place. And thus at the end which is now at the bar plug, you simply pop the plug in and voila no tape bartape. This takes some practice though.

Hm, I don't pull on my handelbars; they support my weight. My experience has had every bar tape that finished towards me to eventually loosen and vice versa. Have you experienced this "pulling" effect? Perhaps bike fit comes into play here.

When I first got in to bicycling, the standard method was to start taping near the stem and work your way outwards to the ends. Then stuff the end of the tape into the handlebar and secure it with the bar end plug. Of course, back then everyone used unpadded adhesive cotton tape, so it stuck no matter what you did.

This method probably won't work with the super-padded tape that all the out-of-shape kids use. The fat tape probably wouldn't fit in the end of the handlebar and/or would tear if you tried to secure it with the bar plug.

thread hijacking here...

anyone know how to tape bars like this?

http://www.spoke.ie/wp-content/uploa...el-sanchez.jpg

How would you connect two diff color tapes without a lump where they meet?

Probably a multicolor bartape:
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._200277_200333

Pedal harder; you'll pull on the bars alright. :)

I do it the other way. If you wrap the way you specified, it typically unravels at the bend on the tops near the shifter.

Eddy Merckx wrapped his bars from the center out. No finishing tape used.

Bingo! The advances in bar tape are such that the electrical tape looks real bad next to it. We had a thing about "doing wheelies" on out Ten speeds back in the day and that didn't pull the tape off.

I guess there are no climbs near you, huh? 'Cause as soon as the road points up, you see everybody here pulling on the tops of their bars...

...that or poor bar taping technique... ;)

Well, I looked at a few photos and noticed there is no consensus amongst the pro peloton. Still, it's possible that I have been riding all these years without knowing how to climb or tape bars ;)

However you choose to do it, from the inside out or starting at the ends, if you *change direction* at the briftors or brake levers, then you can have it so the tape tends to tighten on both the uppers and lowers. If using harmonic dampers in the bar ends you may not be able to tuck the tape in to finish the ends there, so you'll have to use electrical tape etc at the inboard end.

bumper

I tape mine CW on the right, the opposite of the Park Tool method. I ride the Colorado mountains and I have no problems with the tape coming loose. A good climber has no need to pull on the bars. That only wastes energy. I don't place my hands on the top section very often either. I mainly climb from the hoods with my upper back relatively low for better aerodynamics.

Starting the tape from the center is of no advantage, as it would require some sort of ugly tucking of the end to keep it from unraveling, without finishing tape. The adhesive on modern tapes in only in the center and wouldn't keep the end from unraveling.

I pull hard on the tops during hill repeats. This is required for putting down a lot of power. I think the wrap direction is largely irrelevant but I have seen either Sheldon and/or Park say the tape should wrap over the top toward you on the bar tops.

All photos from Cyclingnews.com, on their Pro Bikes tech feature.

Still, here's a slipstream Felt with the tape coming over the tops forward:
http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/20..._F1SL_Edge.jpg

Also, here's Mancebo's tape, wrapped the same way:

http://www.cyclingnews.com//photos/2...el_cockpit.jpg

But, here's Cavendish's Addict, wrapped back over the tops:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/photos/20...icture_040.jpg

Factories wrap from the drop to the stem because it is easier for them to do so.

If you don't want to replace your tape every few weeks (a la pro riders) then this method means that the tape will peel back where you hands most often contact the bars.

Wrap from the drops to the stem and learn how to use an exacto knife to avoid the 'bump'. Use electrical tape to seal the deal and finish tape to look pretty.

/thread.

Maybe it's the difference between changing it every couple of weeks and not. I will see how well my job weathers the abuse from riding. There is just something "not neat" with the electrical tape.

As I mentioned, your tape should come with a length of finish tape. If done properly this will be wrapped around the bar once (like a collar) and will completely hide the electrical tape.

Actually, you've just inspired me to add a 'how to tape your bars' section to my website. If you're not happy with the results of your drop-to-stem wrap check here in a week or so to see how I would suggest you do it.

Wrapping from the stem to the drops is backwards and will result in frequent changes due to curled up tape edges. I do the opposite and never have that problem. One tape job will easily last 3-5,000 miles.

The guys at my shop start near the stem. Much cleaner look IMO.

I wrap my bars with elect. tape sticky side up then wrap with bar tape and never comes up even in a crash. also very easy to replace tape as no residue is left on bar from tape. i do start drop to stem .

speaking of tape.. need help finding a blue to match my frame. It's lighter than normal Deda/Profile blue... but not "powdery" enough for the light Cinelli thats kinda like Astana..
maybe Fizik blue ? not that metallic stuff tho
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...h_IMG_0598.jpg