idk416

this has happened twice in the past week on two different bikes with two different sets of wheels.
both times i had just climbed a hill out of the saddle. both times i noticed a rubbing sound within a couple minutes where the wheel was rubbing the chain stay.
i checked my wheels previous to both rides and the wheel was secure.
i'm 153 pounds, so....
any ideas? skewers? (one wheelset was campy scirocco, one set fulcrum 3's...both with the skewers that came with them...both similar looking). maybe i'm just an animal on the climb?

johnny99

Most likely user error regarding tightening the skewers.

MONGO!

You're putting the wheels on wrong.

RacerOne

What type of frame and skewers, steel, carbon, aluminum?

DScott

pics?

idk416

as in not tight enough? should you tighten them to the point that it's difficult to close? right now i'm tightening the nut until there's resistance, then clamping the other side down. feels tight, but i suppose i could go for even tighter. it just feels like the clamp wants to spring back open when it's as tight as humanly possible.

idk416

the frame with scirocco wheels is a steel merckx corsa extra 711 and the other is a cinelli unica (the fulcrum 3s) that's aluminum with carbon seat stays.

idk416

not of the misaligned wheel. i just straightened it out and carried on my way.

ok_commuter

I've got the same problem with the Waterford, which is why I'm not riding it until I get my rear wheel build done. Picked up the rim today.

In my case, it definitely isn't caused by not having the skewer tight enough. I had it so tight that nobody else that tried was able to open it. I don't think that should be necessary...

I have had the problem occur when delivering lots of power to the crank (standing) and also when using the rear brake.

I've considered that the wheel is not laterally stable enough (stupid bontrager race light paired spokes). I've also considered improper chain tension/length. I have no idea really. I'm sure the LBS will figure it out in short order. When I was picking up my rim today, a guy came in to get the same problem fixed...

AEO

the skewer should start to feel tight at the half-closed position. the cam lever should leave a depression in your hand after you have closed it.

if you have chromed horizontal drop outs, and you must have horizontal dropouts if your wheel keeps slipping, then you want to give the nut another half or full turn to allow the teeth to bite in harder.

if it keeps slipping, time to get a new hidden cam shimano or campagnolo QR skewer.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

ok_commuter

Also - I thought maybe it was a bent or otherwise crappy skewer, so I swapped that out for the one from my Dura-Ace hub. No luck.

RacerOne

Hmm.. I had this problem on my steel frame when I switched to aluminum skewers, something about they don't grab well against the steel. However since it happened on both frames I don't know.

andr0id

+1 Exactly what he said. Also, on bikes with dropout set screws, they are just there for alignment during wheels swaps. You can't count on them to hold the wheel in position under load. That's the QR's job.

AEO

aluminum is softer than steel so the teeth on the skewer flatten out from the pressure.

darkmagus

It could be that you have too much axle protruding outside the cone lock nuts.

Scroll down on this page to see what I'm talking about.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105

From the article:
NOTE: For quick release wheels, it is critical the axle end sit inboard or recessed inside the frame or fork dropout. This allows the quick release skewer to secure onto the frame or fork end. If the axle end protrudes even a very small amount, the wheel may not properly secure and may come out during use. In the image below the axle end is only slightly too long. If the hub is the correct width, check the axle is centered between the locknuts. It may be necessary to grind off the axle end until it is safely recessed.

fauxto nick

Sheldon Brown is talking about the two types of quick releases available and states one kind can fail if you look up quick releases on his website you should be able to find the info. Sorry I don't know the name sof the two different types but basically the base plate on the one that can fail has a peak and a valley and sometimes you can clamp down the quick release on the high part then if moves and suddenly has play if that makes sense. I'd check out his website if i were you.

idk416

thanks all.
since it's 2 different bikes i'll start with the skewer and crank those suckers down and work down
my newly compiled list of possibilities.
the skewers that came with the scirocco's seem to want to 'spring back' more than the fulcrum ones under higher pressure. this is odd since i assume they are basically the same barring some cosmetics.
cheers.

johnny99

Sheldon doesn't that the skewers are defective. What he says is that many people don't use the open-cam type correctly, which causes them to not secure the wheel properly.

JohnDThompson 

Does this have forward-facing horizontal dropouts? Perhaps chrome plated? And you're using external-cam type quick releases? If so, you need better (i.e. enclosed cam) quick releases. The external cam type can't clamp effectively on horizontal dropouts, particularly if they're plated. They do work adequately with vertical dropouts since the chain doesn't pull in the direction of the slot.

ok_commuter

I am becoming convinced this is the problem with the Bontragers that came on the ebay bike I bought. I bet I can make it work now that I've switched to a Shimano DA (internal cam) skewer. I've never had to close a skewer so tightly, but I've never had chromed horizontal dropouts before either.