Williams 30s vs Kinlin XR-200 / DT Swiss 240s / Aerolite
05-10-09, 08:28 AM
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Williams 30s vs Kinlin XR-200 / DT Swiss 240s / Aerolite
Which ones would be the better choice? I think they are comparable wheels.
https://www.williamscycling.com/sys30/sys30.html
https://www.likinbikin.com/Products/Wheels_Road.html
https://www.williamscycling.com/sys30/sys30.html
https://www.likinbikin.com/Products/Wheels_Road.html
05-10-09, 09:00 AM
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For $220 savings I would get the Williams...that said I am a fan of Soul wheels so I would get the S3.0 if I was looking to buy a set of 30mm wheels. Or go 11 better and get the S4.0 like I did. 
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05-10-09, 09:01 AM
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Lace some Xr300s with some White Industries hubs. Those will be better than the Williams because the hubs are lighter, stiffer, made in the US.
05-10-09, 09:35 AM
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Read much?
And, there is nothing wrong with supporting a company that makes their hubs in the USA, especially when they are actually good products as well. (Nothing wrong with getting the williams either... )
Besides, the WI are better hubs because they are lighter and stiffer... no because of where they are made.
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05-10-09, 09:37 AM
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I'm fairly certain that the Williams 30's are built off of Kinlin XR300 rims.
05-10-09, 09:47 AM
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"because the hubs are lighter, stiffer, made in the US."
Read much?
And, there is nothing wrong with supporting a company that makes their hubs in the USA, especially when they are actually good products as well. (Nothing wrong with getting the williams either... )
Besides, the WI are better hubs because they are lighter and stiffer... no because of where they are made.
Read much?
And, there is nothing wrong with supporting a company that makes their hubs in the USA, especially when they are actually good products as well. (Nothing wrong with getting the williams either... )
Besides, the WI are better hubs because they are lighter and stiffer... no because of where they are made.
I'm not a big fan of WI products. A friend has their track hubs, and the cog wiggles free often. It looks like the cranks would do the same thing.
05-10-09, 11:38 AM
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I have their hubs on my roadie and our tandem.
They are also the manufacturer of the crankset on our tandem.
I have put several thousand *hard* miles on all these parts with no problems. Stuff like 206 mile double centuries with 20,000 feet of climbing, and stuff like 20% grades on a 45lb steel tandem with a 300 lb team.
05-10-09, 12:09 PM
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Are either of these proposed wheelsets appreciably more aerodynamic than 32 spoke box section wheels? It doesn't sound like it, so I wouldn't worry to much about the 8mm of rim depth difference.
05-10-09, 01:10 PM
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I'm guessing user error.
I have their hubs on my roadie and our tandem.
They are also the manufacturer of the crankset on our tandem.
I have put several thousand *hard* miles on all these parts with no problems. Stuff like 206 mile double centuries with 20,000 feet of climbing, and stuff like 20% grades on a 45lb steel tandem with a 300 lb team.
I have their hubs on my roadie and our tandem.
They are also the manufacturer of the crankset on our tandem.
I have put several thousand *hard* miles on all these parts with no problems. Stuff like 206 mile double centuries with 20,000 feet of climbing, and stuff like 20% grades on a 45lb steel tandem with a 300 lb team.
Be wary of the splined interface!
I have a pair of WI ENO cranks/chainring, which uses the exact same splined interface as the hub/cog. There is a tiny bit of play that, when riding fixed, works the lockring loose. I mean, it loosens literally every ride, developing a loud creak. I called WI and they claim that the play is normal, although they would not admit to me that this is a major design flaw in their system. Unless the spline is tapered (like a BB spindle, for instance), a microscopic bit of play is unavoidable, and the back and forth motion will eventually work the lockring loose. Blue Locktite seems to have solved the problem, but if you ask me there is a major design flaw here.
I also have used the Miche Cog/Carrier system, which is also splined. I have noticed that the lockring loosens with time, albiet much more slowly than what I experience with my WI crank/chainring.
Splines and lockrings are fine for a unidirectional drive (such as a freewheel), but for a bidirectional system (fixed gear) it is an inherently flawed design.
Other people claim not to have developed the same problem, but it may just be that they haven't really checked their lockrings. I would stay away from splines for FG applications, but if you do choose that route, be wary, use a bit of Locktite, and check lockring tension frequently.
WI failed big time with this one. If you want something thats truly a better solution, convert a disc brake hub and bolt a tomicog onto the disc rotor mount. A combination splined/bolt-on cog/hub system would be even better.
I have a pair of WI ENO cranks/chainring, which uses the exact same splined interface as the hub/cog. There is a tiny bit of play that, when riding fixed, works the lockring loose. I mean, it loosens literally every ride, developing a loud creak. I called WI and they claim that the play is normal, although they would not admit to me that this is a major design flaw in their system. Unless the spline is tapered (like a BB spindle, for instance), a microscopic bit of play is unavoidable, and the back and forth motion will eventually work the lockring loose. Blue Locktite seems to have solved the problem, but if you ask me there is a major design flaw here.
I also have used the Miche Cog/Carrier system, which is also splined. I have noticed that the lockring loosens with time, albiet much more slowly than what I experience with my WI crank/chainring.
Splines and lockrings are fine for a unidirectional drive (such as a freewheel), but for a bidirectional system (fixed gear) it is an inherently flawed design.
Other people claim not to have developed the same problem, but it may just be that they haven't really checked their lockrings. I would stay away from splines for FG applications, but if you do choose that route, be wary, use a bit of Locktite, and check lockring tension frequently.
WI failed big time with this one. If you want something thats truly a better solution, convert a disc brake hub and bolt a tomicog onto the disc rotor mount. A combination splined/bolt-on cog/hub system would be even better.
05-10-09, 07:02 PM
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