wintermute

I've had a mountain bike (Giant Yukon) for a few years and have found that I pretty much just ride it on roads. I've thrown road tires on it to ride better, but it isn't good enough for me. I ride the bike on a daily basis for short trips (10-15 miles) at a not so leisurely pace. I've been doing bike tours (generally around the 50 mile range) on a monthly basis. I'm tired of pedaling that beast for 50 miles. I want something leaner and I want to try for some centuries. I want a road bike.

I know that the bike I get is going to be based on what fits best, but what about components? I've heard some people say "whatever you get, don't go below 105's" and others say "nowadays, even the lower priced soras are good". What should I go with? My absolute max ceiling for a bike is around $1,000. I don't think I'll get into racing, but i want components that i'll be happy with for a few years. and the main thing i want is durability. I don't want anything that'll break or wear down rather quickly. What are you guys' opinion on this?

Secondly, what about frame geometry? I've heard some say that compact geometry is stiffer and lighter. Some say that if you're tall (I'm 6'1") you've got to go w/ standard geometry. I'm doing a lot of research on this, but these differing opinions are driving me nuts.

thanks.

khuon

My opinion is not to sacrifice frame for components but there is a bottom level to components. I personally dislike Sora because its thumbshifter design prevents me from shifting from the drops, but find Tiagra to be fine. I would however be quite happy with Campy all the way to its bottom level component group. I would not go lower than Tiagra 9sp on Shimano though. If you're looking in the $1000 pricerange, I would find a reputable and good quality frame and then look at components. My first suggestion would be to look at the Specialized Allez Sport or the Specialized Allez Elite for a good idea of respectable frame/component mix. I also personally like the shifting on a double rather than a triple so would recommend that variant instead but it all depends on your personal preference, fitness level and terrain. As far as compact vs. traditional, the debate continues and in the end, I feel it's all about looks as neither offers any more significant advantage over the other... especially in a larger frame. I prefer the look of a traditional straight tube FWIW but would not turn down or refuse to ride a sloping toptube bike nor would I discount it based on just that when making a purchasing decision.

tourist

I'll stand by the don't go below 105 level in Shimano and Veloce in Campy. I think there is a separation here for sure from the lower lines.

As for standard geometry vs compact geometry I think at your height you'll find the standard is more comfortable. This is not to say you won't find a compact frame that fits, but my feeling is you won't be comfortable on one. As for stiffness and lightness and compact geometry frames that is a broad brush to paint with. Those characteristics have lot more variables to them than that. Frame material and manufacturer for example.

Lastly, with your budget you should be able to fit all the criteria you've stated.

BlueDevil

Compnents....

You will find about as many different opinions here as there are replies, but I'll throw in my 2 cents. I picked up a LeMond Tourmalet a year ago. It has Tiagra shifters, Tiagra front DR, and 105 rear DR. I found this to be very suitable for every day riding. The shifting isnt the fastest in the world, and there is some noise from the drivetrain, but it works well, and stays in adjustment for quite a while.

My GFs bike is a Specialized Alliez. It has Sora shifters, Sora FD, and Tiagra RD. To be honest, the Sora shifters and FD are JUNK. The rear shifts fine, but the front.. well its a game of russian roulette.. sometimes it works, other times it just doesnt. I have tried adjusting it myself (I have some halfway descent skills from my mtn biking days), have had it in 3 different bike shops, and have had a friend of mine (Cat 1 racer, and EXTREMELY proficient mechanic) adjust it, and it still is a potshot.. Also, the Sora shifters have a funky thumb shifting mechanism instead of the second paddle under the break lever.

The GF has gotten so frustrated with the components on her bike, that I am giving her all of my components as an upgrade (that Cat1 friend of mine sold me a bunch of his Ultegra and DA stuff for cheap). My advice- Tiagra is fine.. 105 is better.. but stay away from Sora.. its nothing but a headache.

As for frame geometry.. It all depends on your body type. I have a longish torso and arms, and feel cramped as can be on a compact geometry, and am not even very comfortable on a standard geometry. I ended up with LeMond, as his bikes tend to have a longer top tube, to spread you out more. His philosophy is that it opens the chest and lungs a bit so you can breathe easier... for me, it is just comfortable. Just get out there and ride as many frames as you can, and see what fits you best.

OneTinSloth

i got the new 105 group last year and i'm really, really pleased with it. the only upgrade i want to do right now is get the dura ace 9 speed STIs because they have the metal paddles instead of plastic...and my wheels, which are the 105 hubs. nothing wrong with the them though, i just want some new stuff, and a set of really nice wheels for when i actually use the bike for longer rides and such, and then just keep my old wheels for riding around the city.

having assembled a number of bikes with sora over the last few weeks, i have to say that yeah, it's a good group, but i don't like the styling, and the shifting could be a little cleaner. if you've got the bucks to spare i'd say go with 105.

a lot of folks here will probably say "just get ultegra." but if you're just starting out, 105 will be just fine, and it'll last until you start thinking about upgrading...105 is a really solid group.

wintermute

That's the top of my budget, but, of course, I wouldn't mind going lower.

Psyclist

Wintermute-
I just bought a Lemond Reno(paid $820)...compact geometry,105/ tiagra, carbon fork, triple ring. At first I was little skeptical about the geometry of it( I had been riding a traditional frame for years, a '91 Fuji delRey )Being 6"-3", I had thought it just wouldn't be big enough for me. But, after doing the math, and having it explained to me by my LBS,I realized it was possible for me to get into a compact frame. I ended up with a 59cm..."probably" could have rode a 61, but would have had to wait 3 weeks to get it. When I got the bike home and compared it to my Fuji 64cm frame,"dimension-to-dimension" it was almost identical, except for the shorter wheelbase(2+) inches. The bikes today turn quicker and are more responsive than what I had been used to, but I'm glad I made the leap.Some people won't ride a compact frame, but check one out ...you may like it!
As far as components go ,my LBS calls Sora, "Sora...sometimes".,i.e., sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't!
I think, in your price range, you can easily get into all 105. If you can, do it. You won't be sorry!

kefin

I'll just throw this in as a side comment as I don't really have anything profound to say, but if you're shopping for a decent road bike and want to try an online dealer, check out Gary Hobbs' website:

https://www.gvhbikes.com

He often has bikes for sale at special values and here's one that seems to be to be an incredible deal:

=======================================

Raleigh Professional w/Shimano Ultegra 9spd STI...$1095.!

These frames are beautifully tig welded using Columbus Zona double butted, seamless chromoly; very light, very strong.* Columbus Link threadless 1 1/8" carbon fiber fork and integrated headset.* They're built up with Shimano Ultegra 9spd STI componentry; derailleurs, STI levers, crank, b.b., cassette, chain, brake calipers; Velocity Deep V clincher rims on Ultegra hubs, TTT The handlebar/stem, Selcof seatpost, Selle Italia XO Trans Am saddle, Continental tires and cork handlebar wrap.* Sizes 53cm, 56cm, 59cm, 62cm; all measured center to top.* Pictures of each size can be found on the frame inventory section.* Need a triple setup?* It's available for only $25. additional.

=======================================

You can always give him a call to see if he can put together something that fits your budget (and your size). But you can't really beat the price of that Raleigh bike with a carbon fiber fork and Ultegra group for $1095.

BTW, I've not purchased from Gary Hobbs but have heard nothing but positive reviews from others who have.

Have fun bike shopping!

-Kevin

Avalanche325

I agree with the at least 105 theory. I would stay with Shimano for the reason that it is cheaper than Campy for the same component level.

Compact or traditional geometry is more a matter of personal preferance than anything. The theory is that a compact frame flexes less. But then you have twice as much seat post sticking out, which being a single tube, flexes even more.

I do think the Specialized bikes mentioned are a good place to start.

OneTinSloth

i would like to add another two cents about frames...i got a wonderful old(ish) pinarello lugged steel frame off craigslist for $299 last year when i was shopping for a "nice" road bike. and there are a ton of great deals out there waiting to be had. it's a great way to save on budget as long as the frame is in good condition (no dents, alligned properly, no crazy huge scratches or gouges in the paint/tubes).

if you already have a shop that you're friendly with, you could order the parts through them and then pay to have them installed if you don't want to or don't have the proper tools. most true local bike shops (the shops that actually give a damn about their customers and are dedicated to helping others enjoy bikes, i.e. the good ones) won't have a problem with this, as long as you buy the parts through them and are willing to wait and pay them for their time, which is more than fair IMO.

i think my complete rig ended up costing me about $800-$900 with the 105, my rims, and the labor to build the wheels. i think i may have gotten a little screwed on the parts cost, but it was my friend's shop so i don't feel too bad about it. it's only money, after all, and my bike is still running as smooth (if not smoother) than the first time i rode it.

dexmax

you can get a 105 equiped bike for $1000. I have been happy w/ 105s, although I'm now upgrading to Ultegra components.

105s do last. On my other bike, my 105 groupset is intact. Had the bike since 1992. The only things that were replaced were the chain and brake shoes. The chainrings will be replaced soon.

My other two bikes have ultegra 105 mix. I never had problems w/ these components. And you won't as long as you maintain it well.

seely

I have Shimano RX100, Ultegra, 600, 105 and Tiagra all on the same bike and it all works well, but I would never never never get Sora shifters... I think they are pure crap, and the microscopic trigger is a DESIGN FLAW plain and simple if you ask me. No thinking human being could have created so stupid a concept. For shifters Tiagra is fine but on derailleurs I would maybe go 105 or Tiagra/105 mix at least.

wintermute

I went to an LBS today. Granted, they are in a very affluent area, but when I asked for help, they told me that bikes w/ anything lower than ultegras aren't worth buying. also they said that frames w/o carbon fiber are now useless and tried to sell me a lemond buenos aires as a "decent starter bike". They said that the Trek 1500 and Cannondale R600 are "bare minimums and barely worth buying".

That's one place I'm never going to buy anything from. They did say that Felts are awesome for the price tho, although they then proceeded to try to get me to get a custom Guru bike made.

I figure i'll look at bikes w/ 105 components on them, because it seems like the majority of people agree that these are solid.

Oh, and get this, the place said they'd fit me, but don't do test rides.

khuon

I would personally never set foot in that bike shop again. I actually live in a fairly affluent area too but the LBS near me despite selling really high end stuff also caters to all price ranges and tastes. They know that their bread and butter comes from being loyal to the local community and even in places where there's money, not everyone puts the same high value on cycling. Now it may be for the clientele of that bike shop you visited, it wouldn't make business sense to stock lower end bikes but I still detect a hint of too much snobbery on their part based on what you've told us. Two cardinal rules in bicycle shopping...

1. Buy what feels comfortable
2. Be comfortable with what you buy

Bottom line: Get the most comfortable bike for the price you are most comfortable with paying.

OneTinSloth

wow! if a bike shop employee tried to pull that crap with me i'd probably laugh in their face...and then challenge them to a blindfolded comparison of both 105 and ultegra. i bet they're the same type of shop that, when you bring your bike in for a repair, they probably mess something else up so you'll have to come back in a week or two later and pay them again. being that high-end bikes with high-end parts are supposed to need less maintenance, i wonder how they make their money...i bet their margins are super-inflated if all they sell is high-end.

hell, i've seen a finely-tuned tiagra group out-perform ultegra...it's all in how well you (or your mechanic) can maintain and tune your bike.

i can make a 6-speed hunk of junk from the '80s with derailleurs built like tanks shift as well as the brand new ultegra STI setups.

old-school 7-speed MTBs with first generation STI/rapid fire can be just as nice as brand new XTR, if not BETTER, if dialed in properly...

Pat

That is my take on the compact geometry. Sure it is lighter and stiffer but you butt still has to be in the same place and the longer seat tube more then loses you all of your supposed advantage. I think it is a marketing ploy.

pdxtex

poor sora shifters...(sniff)...i have a lemond with sora shifters and they work fine...i admit the no second paddle thing is a design flaw but have countered the no shifting in the drops problem by buying a different handle bar where the bend in the drops is shorter then stock bars, thus bringing my thumb closer to the shifter and allowing me to shift from the drop.....nyaaah...but seriously, a bike which is tuned well yet does not have top of the line parts will work just fine. in the long run, i probably would stay away from sora but for the average mortal, 105 is plenty!!!!

K6-III

The Sora shifters suit me just fine...when combined with Ultegra derailleurs, particularly in the front. In fact, I could notice no difference in shift quality between the Soras with Ultegra derailleurs and full Ultegra...

As for the Sora garbage derailleurs, they are just that, the front one in particular...

wintermute

Oh, I can't believe I forgot (well, it was late) that the guy actually had the nerve to tell me that if I wasn't willing to spend $1500 to $2500, I had no business buying a road bike.

Now they will have no business selling me a road bike.

Psyclist

They told you what???!!Yeah...and with an attitude like that they'l be going "out of business"....and soon.

chigrl71

Just as a side note...remember in your budget that once you have bought your bike, there are often other things that are "needed", such as a computer, pedals, new shoes, etc. The new gear for a new bike and run you between $300-$500.

wintermute

thanks chigrl. i had thought about that, but since i'm planning on getting the bike in fall or winter, i figured i would be able to defray those costs over a couple of months. pretty much what i'm looking at now are bikes from trek, lemond, cannondale, giant, specialized, and felt (can i get any wider of a selection?) with either tiagra or 105 components. it'll all come down to the test rides. i'm going to stay away from stuff that's too fancy, like aero spokes and such. just a solid enthusiast bike that'll be great to ride on and won't be too hard to maintain.

any decent steel bikes for around $1000? just so i can get a feel for what those are like?

khuon

They're harder to come by. You'll have to jump up an extra couple hundred bucks for the Specialized Allez Elite Cro-Mo. LeMond got rid of their all-steel lineup this year. Maybe you can find one of last year's models. I heard they might be coming back with a new steel lineup for next year so if you're waiting around until the winter to buy, check out what rolls out in the new year models this fall. the other option is to get the LeMond Maillot Jaune Classic frameset and have it built up with a parts kit. This may blow your $1,000 budget and you probably won't be able to testride it first. Best bet at this point would be to look for closeouts and last year's models to testride.

Stubacca

The Fuji Roubaix Pro is a good option at this price point. I picked up an '03 at the start of the year for about $900. It has a Reynold 853 main triangle, cro-moly stays, carbon fork, and a 105 component set. I've been very happy with it, and like the ride it has much more than any of the other $1K options I test rode (which were mostly aluminum).

OneTinSloth

unless you're absolutely dead set on brand new, check ebay for great deals on steel frames:

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...682058015&rd=1

https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...681527476&rd=1

you didn't mention what size frame you're looking for, but those are two examples of deals to be had. the first one especially with a buy-it-now of $355, , hook it up with a 105 group for probably around $450, then add in the cost of having it built and having wheels built up and you're probably right around $1000.

there are also some pretty good deals on aluminum, but i'd recommend a decent, classic steel ride to start with. there are all kinds of great places to look online for deals on bikes...i think someone on here just scored a pretty decent steel marin road frame from chuck's a couple days ago...they also have good deals on carbon bikes and aluminum bikes...and parts too, but they don't have any complete component groups.