Shifting under heavy loads?
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Shifting under heavy loads?
I have a .5 mile span of freshly paved development that has practically been abandoned since the houseing market bust. They never even started building houses. So from one cul-de-sac to the other and back to start makes a mile. Yesterday was my first time out on the road bike. It's an 08 Felt F75 and at one point is a pretty steep hill that I ended up in the lowest gear by the time I hit the top and everytime I would downshift, I could tell it was really popping in there. Is this to be expected anytime I'm shifting under really heavy loads on this thing?
I'm just paranoid, right?
I'm just paranoid, right?
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Assuming you are running Shimano, officially you are not supposed to be able to break it shifting under any load. In reality, I managed to down shift my FD while standing hard on the pedals on a hill and break my FD cage past repair. Shimano replaced it (105) under warrenty.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
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No only let off a little, but try shifting earlier, before you are really bogged down in the gear. That way there will be less pressure on the drivetrain.
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Assuming you are running Shimano, officially you are not supposed to be able to break it shifting under any load. In reality, I managed to down shift my FD while standing hard on the pedals on a hill and break my FD cage past repair. Shimano replaced it (105) under warrenty.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
My last time up I went from almost the highest gear to the lowest, I was shifting early enough to try and keep spinning at the same speed without slowing down.
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I'd rather shift the RD under load than the Front. The RD shifts by moving the slack part of the chain that only has tension from the idler (cage). The FD works on the rider-tensioned part of the chain so I never shift between rings without letting off first.
Edit: but in general I try not to shift under load regardless... less wear on everything.
Edit: but in general I try not to shift under load regardless... less wear on everything.
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I bang into gears in all out sprints, haven't broken anything yet. The only thing that could happen is prematurely wearing out the cassette, or maybe bending a tooth on the cassette, but the chance is slim, and cassettes are only $60-$70...
#9
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Assuming you are running Shimano, officially you are not supposed to be able to break it shifting under any load. In reality, I managed to down shift my FD while standing hard on the pedals on a hill and break my FD cage past repair. Shimano replaced it (105) under warrenty.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
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^^ what he said, be in the chain ring you need to be in when you start the climb. Shifting the FD under load is a good way to drop a chain.
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Assuming you are running Shimano, officially you are not supposed to be able to break it shifting under any load. In reality, I managed to down shift my FD while standing hard on the pedals on a hill and break my FD cage past repair. Shimano replaced it (105) under warrenty.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
Soft pedaling is your friend.
#12
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Or at least sit down to shift the front ring. You don't need to shift before the climb necessarily (and here is where the high quality drivetrains make a big difference), but you do need to unload the drivetrain for half a pedal stroke while the front ring shifts.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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I avoid it like the plague, every dropped chain I've during a race has been in this exact situation. Some times it can't be helped, but as a rule, I try not to be in that situation. But yes if I am shifting chain rings, it is seated with the pedals unloaded.
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How are you supposed to shift in this situation? Almost in the highest gear coming down a bit of a slope that hits this hill. I don't have the speed or momentum to make it all the way to the top regardless of if I'm shifting down to maintain a higher rhythem. If I shift the FD to the lower gear ring, then I'm not even pedaling because of the gear being too slow for the speed and if I down shift the RD instead, by the time I'm close to the top, I have to shift the FD anyways or I fall over.
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Must have been quite the spectacle to the joggers that were coming down the hill in a pack. lol.
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"Under heavy load" is a bit ambiguous but if you let off a little when shifting, as Jynx said, you'll be absolutely fine.
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#17
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How are you supposed to shift in this situation? Almost in the highest gear coming down a bit of a slope that hits this hill. I don't have the speed or momentum to make it all the way to the top regardless of if I'm shifting down to maintain a higher rhythem. If I shift the FD to the lower gear ring, then I'm not even pedaling because of the gear being too slow for the speed and if I down shift the RD instead, by the time I'm close to the top, I have to shift the FD anyways or I fall over.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
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I should have stated that I "accidently" down shifted while standing on a hill climb. I went to trim the FD and ... a bad thing happened. I was not trying to change gears. I was well into the climb.
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Just keep shifting down as your speed decreases. When I have to cross over to the small chainring, usually I'll very quickly shift up two gears in the back and almost simultaineous shift the front. There is a small chance you will drop the chain... just something you need to deal with. Anyway, most of the time, if you drop the chain, you can pick it back up with your front derailleur by immediately shifting to the big ring.
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I have a .5 mile span of freshly paved development that has practically been abandoned since the houseing market bust. They never even started building houses. So from one cul-de-sac to the other and back to start makes a mile. Yesterday was my first time out on the road bike. It's an 08 Felt F75 and at one point is a pretty steep hill that I ended up in the lowest gear by the time I hit the top and everytime I would downshift, I could tell it was really popping in there. Is this to be expected anytime I'm shifting under really heavy loads on this thing?
I'm just paranoid, right?
I'm just paranoid, right?
That Felt F75 is a fine ride and way nice as a first road bike. Chains and cables do stretch over time. I think it stretches quicker when under a load like you say. Don't be concerned because chains need to be replaced anyways. If you enjoy climbing, there will be that price to pay. The other thing is your knees. Ascents also puts stress on the knees.
That's why you really need to develop good pedal form to take advantage of your power stroke and gear selection. Save the knees; save the cheerleader.
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Di2 is your solution....you can shift perfectly anytime you want in combo you want and it works perfectly everytime..unless the battery is dead
#23
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when i first started riding it was my roommates mtb back in college --- i didn't think to shift in-time and i shifted under load and bent the RD 90*.... he was none-too-happy and i paid for a new RD
#24
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When it goes off the other side, I can usually pick it up with my fingers, so no need to stop. But in races, I just stay in the big ring to avoid any possibility of dropping the chain.
#25
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I've dropped chains before in a race. I've always been able to get it back on without dismounting, indeed, without even losing much position in the pack. Now, usually, you end up re-chaining onto the big ring, so if you drop it on a very steep climb, you might be muscling a pretty big gear when you get it back on.
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Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter