tetonrider

anyone know of a spider lockring removal tool for a bb30 crank?

specialized makes one, but it's only sold as part of a ($150) kit that contains many things i don't need (quite wasteful, but i'm willing to go that route). i'm wondering if cannondale, fsa, or others might have a compatible tool.

if you're not sure about the tool, do you know any companies that produce bb30 cranksets with removable spiders? that would help.

thank you!

umd

I have one for the Specialized cranks, but there is no such thing as a generic spider removal tool. The BB30 spec only dictates the size of axle, placement of the bearings, etc. How the crankarms attach to the axle is up for grabs. If you go to a shop that sells Specialized they should have the tool.

mazdatech10

sonnys bike tools makes one for cannondale cranks, have one in my tool box.didn't have to pay for it as i ride with him. don't know where you could get one, you might try enduro bearings as he makes the tools for them.

tetonrider

thanks umd. i was on the phone with specialized today and they suggested looking elsewhere. good to have confirmation that it's not out there, so i don't chase my tail for too long.

i believe the tool is only in that set, so that means $150. ouch.


thanks. sounds like from what umd is saying, even if the tools exist for cannondale, they may not work for specialized.

umd

Well like I said, you should just be able to take your bike to a shop and have them change the spider for you. That said, the toolset is very cool...



The huge thing on the left is for the spider, the next one is to remove the bearing from the shell, the third I don't remember offhand, I didn't have to use it. The far right is a 6mm allen wrench and next to it is a socket wrench adapter, for removal and installation of the cranks.

tetonrider

thanks umd. i prefer to be independent of shops if i can. i enjoy my own wrenching (i trust the bike more when going >50mph if i've done the own work), and i get to have it back in the timeframe i want.

my "local" shop is actually not really close to me.

thanks for the photo. that's better than the one i'd seen in the past. looks very well built for shop use.

i *think* i can pull the crank with just the 4 & 6mm hexes, and if i'm careful not disturb the bearings. (i understand that sometimes the bearings could fall out when one is removing the cranks because they are pressed in.)

maybe?

umd

You can remove the crank with just a 6mm hex, it's nothing special. However it's REALLY torqued in there and the only way I've ever been able to get it apart was with a socket wrench. It is unlikely you would be able to get it off with a "regular" allen wrench, but maybe if you can find one with a good handle. You won't need to deal with the spider lockring, Quarq will do that part. The bearings should stay in the shell, they are in there pretty good.

tetonrider

thanks for the real-world experience, umd. i appreciate that. (i didn't expect to remove it with an allen key -- i figured it would take a wrench with a long handle. i ain't THAT strong. )

i was in contact with someone VERY helpful at specialized who told me he has installed and removed his cranks many times, and despite best efforts it could happen that the bearings fall out, as the cranks are REALLY pressed in there. he said wiggling the cranks helps during removal.

tetonrider

umd:
according to step #2 of these instructions from specialized, are you applying locktite on that bolt when you re-install the cranks?

maybe 20-25ft-lbs isn't that much torque, so i'm wondering if it's the breaking the locktite seal that's making the difference.

thanks for the info, as i get ready to do my cinqo install.

umd

No locktite.... it's not hard to get it on and off now, it was just the first time... anyway I haven't had any problems with it working loose or anything.

tetonrider

cool. i'm guessing that 1st time was the locktite, then. thanks for the info.

tetonrider

hey, umd:
just wanted to do a quick update. i actually had the chance to remove the s-works cranks twice today -- once on a frame going back for warranty reasons, and the other on the new frame.

(i've removed and installed plenty of cranks before, but for some reason i was hesitant about this.)

turned out to be sooo trivial. i wound up using a set of folding hexes. the 6mm hex was about 4" long, and the 8 & 10mm hexes folded out to give me some more leverage.

wiggling the cranks a bit helped remove them and keep the bearings seated.

removing the bearings looks to be pretty simple, and pressing them in is probably easier than installing a headset.

i'd love to have the specialized lockring tool, but that's the only tool i need from the set, and i can't get that separately. (it's not worth $150 to me for the bearing puller, 6mm tool, and lockring tool.)