Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Shifting a triple

Old 07-31-09, 06:30 AM
  #1  
Indyv8a
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Indyv8a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Reisterstown Maryland
Posts: 427

Bikes: Austro-Daimler Olympian Trek 800, Giant OCR C3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Shifting a triple

Just curious, I have a 105 triple, with FSA cranks 52, 39, 30 rings, and a 12-27 cluster. I was wondering for the others with triples, what ring do you normally ride? I tend to be in the middle ring most of of the time. Is there any advantage to using a different shift pattern?
Indyv8a is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 07:04 AM
  #2  
kevin0cr1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 122

Bikes: 2007 Giant OCR1

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have exactly the same setup and am usually on the big ring.
kevin0cr1 is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 07:08 AM
  #3  
Indyv8a
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Indyv8a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Reisterstown Maryland
Posts: 427

Bikes: Austro-Daimler Olympian Trek 800, Giant OCR C3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
me = wuss? I probably just need more time on the bike.
Indyv8a is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 07:33 AM
  #4  
Barrettscv 
Have bike, will travel
 
Barrettscv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,033

Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2

Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 729 Post(s)
Liked 28 Times in 17 Posts
The middle ring will help maintain a 90 to 100 cadence for road speeds of 10 to 25 mph. It also provides a better chainline that reduces drivetrain wear. It is also easier to stay within a cadence range on the 39t chainring, the steps between gears are smaller resulting in a tighter set of gears.

The 52t chainring is best reserved for faster paceline work and downhill travel.

Gear chart using MPH @ 100 RPM
For 700 X 23 / 23-622 tire with 175 mm cranks
With 10-speed 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27 Cassette

52Chainring 39Chainring 30Chainring
Cog
12 33.9mph 25.4mph 19.5mph

13 31.3 23.5 18.0

14 29.0 21.8 16.8

15 27.1 20.3 15.6

16 25.4 19.1 14.7

17 23.9 17.9 13.8

19 21.4 16.0 12.3

21 19.4 14.5 11.2

24 16.9 12.7 9.8

27 15.1 11.3 8.7



Michael
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.

Last edited by Barrettscv; 07-31-09 at 07:41 AM.
Barrettscv is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 08:37 AM
  #5  
djohannsen
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 116
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I do most of my riding on the middle ring. However, my middle ring is a 42 and my cassette is 11-23.


Dave
djohannsen is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 07:04 PM
  #6  
jmess
Senior Member
 
jmess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: PDX
Posts: 315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I use all 3. With the 52 when I get to the middles gears of the cassette I drop to the 39. After I go down a couple more gears I will drop to the 34 with the next downshift. After 2.5 years with 50x34 compact I am liking having more gears to work with.
jmess is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 10:10 PM
  #7  
Japhy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 188
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I stay in the big on flats and downs and the middle for climbing. I'm getting ready to rip the entire fussy 3-ring deal and put on a double. I rarely use the granny anymore.
Japhy is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 11:06 PM
  #8  
JIB
Rollin' on dubs since '77
 
JIB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 49

Bikes: 1982 Mongoose, 1987 Redline RL20-II, 1993 Giant ATX 780, 199? S&M Holmes, 2005 Diamondback Topanga Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have a question and it seems like this would be a good place to ask it. I have been searching high and low to find a replacement for the stock crank on my bike. I found an FSA Gossamer on eBay and the price was right. The stock crank has a 42 tooth middle ring, the FSA has a 39 tooth. Will there be a noticible difference?
JIB is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 11:46 PM
  #9  
iareConfusE
Number One
 
iareConfusE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Danville, CA
Posts: 536

Bikes: Scott CR1 Elite

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by JIB View Post
I have a question and it seems like this would be a good place to ask it. I have been searching high and low to find a replacement for the stock crank on my bike. I found an FSA Gossamer on eBay and the price was right. The stock crank has a 42 tooth middle ring, the FSA has a 39 tooth. Will there be a noticible difference?
Are you going from a triple to a double or something?... Apart from buying a new crank, I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. (I don't know if the Gossamer cranks come in triples)

There will be a noticeable difference switching from a 42 to 39t chainring, but if you indeed are going from a triple to a double, then your next concern should be your shifter. You can either swap out your current shifter for a double indexed shifter, or just physically block out the third indexing in your current shifter.
iareConfusE is offline  
Old 07-31-09, 11:57 PM
  #10  
Georgebowen
Senior Member
 
Georgebowen's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 261
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
middle ring, I tend to spin a faster cadence and dont kick it up to the big rind until 30mph+ downhill stuff.
Georgebowen is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 07:33 AM
  #11  
tntyz
Senior Member
 
tntyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nabob, WI
Posts: 1,197

Bikes: 2018 Domane SL7

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Most of my miles are on the middle ring, but they all get used.

I read somewhere that the big ring is your "most efficient", so I try to get into it as much as possible. I also work to get out of the small ring as soon as possible.

The breakdown of actually used combos look something like this:

- Big ring - 6 smallest cogs
- Little ring - 2-3 largest cogs
- Middle ring - the whole cassette
tntyz is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 07:40 AM
  #12  
DaveSSS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 5,235

Bikes: Look KG461, Colnago C-RS

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 91 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times in 9 Posts
The middle ring and largest cog is a relatively extreme chainline that I would only use briefly, since the middle ring is in nearly the same location as the big ring on a double. The big ring should not be used with the largest two cogs and with the little ring, avoid the smallest 2-3.

The ring to be using is the one that provides the straightest chainline. Each ring is there to be used when appropriate.

With a uniformly spaced triple crank, you always shift 2-3 cogs after every chainring shift, to get the next lower or higher ratio is a uniform progression. For example, when the shifting to the little ring for climbing, shift to the little ring first, then immediately 2-cogs smaller. If that feels too low (easy to pedal), shift one more cog smaller.

Last edited by DaveSSS; 08-01-09 at 12:54 PM.
DaveSSS is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 09:42 AM
  #13  
JIB
Rollin' on dubs since '77
 
JIB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Bristol, TN
Posts: 49

Bikes: 1982 Mongoose, 1987 Redline RL20-II, 1993 Giant ATX 780, 199? S&M Holmes, 2005 Diamondback Topanga Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by iareConfusE View Post
Are you going from a triple to a double or something?... Apart from buying a new crank, I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish. (I don't know if the Gossamer cranks come in triples)

There will be a noticeable difference switching from a 42 to 39t chainring, but if you indeed are going from a triple to a double, then your next concern should be your shifter. You can either swap out your current shifter for a double indexed shifter, or just physically block out the third indexing in your current shifter.
It's triple to triple. Just wondering about the difference in feel from the 42 to the 39. It arrived today, just need to get it installed.
JIB is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 11:29 AM
  #14  
Indyv8a
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Indyv8a's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Reisterstown Maryland
Posts: 427

Bikes: Austro-Daimler Olympian Trek 800, Giant OCR C3

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sounds like I'm doing it right. I try to keep the cadence above 90. I do need to build more strength, there's hills around here.
Indyv8a is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 03:15 PM
  #15  
goaliedad30
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 268

Bikes: Trek Domane

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I've got 52/42/30 with a 12-26 rear cog. I probably spend 70% of my time in the middle ring, and 25% in the big ring. I really only use the 30 for climbs, and most of rides these days are pretty flat, so there hasn't been a real need to use the small chain ring much. We are planning some longer, hillier rides on upcoming trips, so will probably need that granny gear a little more often.
goaliedad30 is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 04:51 PM
  #16  
zonatandem
Senior Member
 
zonatandem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 11,018

Bikes: Custom Zona c/f tandem + Scott Plasma single

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 73 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
54-42-30 FSA carbon Team Pro; 11-34 SRAM cassette.
Majority is on middle ring; 54T for great downhills or tailwind flats, and the 30 for the steep hills/mountains.
Shift levers are Shim 9 speed barcons.


Oh, we ride a tandem, so we really use all gears, eventually.
zonatandem is offline  
Old 08-01-09, 07:56 PM
  #17  
jmess
Senior Member
 
jmess's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: PDX
Posts: 315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Japhy View Post
I stay in the big on flats and downs and the middle for climbing. I'm getting ready to rip the entire fussy 3-ring deal and put on a double. I rarely use the granny anymore.
Try climbing a 17-21% slope for a quarter mile and you will learn to love your triple again
jmess is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hrt4me
Texas
0
09-22-09 08:42 AM
Resident
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
0
09-26-03 08:19 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.