5'7"-madone
#2
stole your bike


Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,907
Likes: 27
From: North Bergen, NJ
Bikes: Orbea Orca, Ridley Compact
There are a lot of variables to bike fit than just your height, your body proportions are more telling so check the fit calculator here to get a better sense of what size frame you need to be on. Keep in mind this is only a guide, but is sure is better than guessing just by height.
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#3
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: kenosha wi
Bikes: madone 5.1, lemond croix de fer, fuji touring
I am 60, 5' 7" and ride a 52 cm madone 5.2. Great bike but please take it out for a long ride (> 30 minutes) before buying AND have your LBS do a bike fit to make sure you have the correct length stem and to see if you need a straight or a set-back seat post.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 577
From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
As already noted, just your height is not enough information. Cycling inseam is more relevant.
Most likely though, a 54cm will be the proper size. Note that there is a big difference in the head tube length between the 6 series and the 5 series. The 5 series has a 30mm taller head tube for the more recreationally inclined rider and the 6 series is for those who want a more aggressive position.
I'm a half inch short of 5'-7" tall, but I have long legs with an 83cm cycling inseam and 73 cm saddle height. With my short torso, I'd have to go with the 52cm 6 series. I could use an 84 degree stem and no spacers to get the 11-12cm saddle to bar drop I use. Most people would choose the 54cm, but the reach is on the long side (for me). The 52cm 5 series is another option with 20mm more head tube length and only about 5mm less reach.
Most likely though, a 54cm will be the proper size. Note that there is a big difference in the head tube length between the 6 series and the 5 series. The 5 series has a 30mm taller head tube for the more recreationally inclined rider and the 6 series is for those who want a more aggressive position.
I'm a half inch short of 5'-7" tall, but I have long legs with an 83cm cycling inseam and 73 cm saddle height. With my short torso, I'd have to go with the 52cm 6 series. I could use an 84 degree stem and no spacers to get the 11-12cm saddle to bar drop I use. Most people would choose the 54cm, but the reach is on the long side (for me). The 52cm 5 series is another option with 20mm more head tube length and only about 5mm less reach.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 08-09-09 at 07:55 AM.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
As already noted, just your height is not enough information. Cycling inseam is more relevant.
Most likely though, a 54cm will be the proper size. Note that there is a big difference in the head tube length between the 6 series and the 5 series. The 5 series has a 30mm taller head tube for the more recreationally inclined rider and the 6 series is for those who want a more aggressive position.
I'm a half inch short of 5'-7" tall, but I have long legs with an 83cm cycling inseam and 73 cm saddle height. With my short torso, I'd have to go with the 52cm 6 series. I could use an 84 degree stem and no spacers to get the 11-12cm saddle to bar drop I use. Most people would choose the 54cm, but the reach is on the long side. The 52cm 5 series is another option with 20mm more head tube length and only about 5mm less reach.
Most likely though, a 54cm will be the proper size. Note that there is a big difference in the head tube length between the 6 series and the 5 series. The 5 series has a 30mm taller head tube for the more recreationally inclined rider and the 6 series is for those who want a more aggressive position.
I'm a half inch short of 5'-7" tall, but I have long legs with an 83cm cycling inseam and 73 cm saddle height. With my short torso, I'd have to go with the 52cm 6 series. I could use an 84 degree stem and no spacers to get the 11-12cm saddle to bar drop I use. Most people would choose the 54cm, but the reach is on the long side. The 52cm 5 series is another option with 20mm more head tube length and only about 5mm less reach.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 577
From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
Having half a foot of saddle to handlebar drop isn't necessary. Nothing says you can't get a shorter stem. I'm 5'10" and ride a 58cm 5.2 Madone. I chose this size because I have a long inseam and didn't want a skyjacker seat post. I'm fine with a 90mm or 100mm stem. I've been fit on a Retul and that's where I'm according to that as well.
Saddle to bar drop can be reduced with stem angle and spacers, not just by buying a larger frame. I use a horizontal (73 degree) stem and only 5mm of spacer to produce the large drop that I prefer. Switching to a more common 84 degree stem will raise the bars about 2cm and produce a 9-10cm drop. I used that setup for many years, with the same head tube length and 5mm spacer under the stem.
Adding 2cm of spacer (during the initial build) will raise the bars another 2cm. Flipping that same 84 degree stem to 96 degrees gains another 2cm of rise, but also reduces the stem length by 8-9mm, so a flipped stem might need to be one size longer. There are lots of options.
They key is to figure out what kind of fit you want and buy the frame size and model that produces that fit without resorting to a stem/spacer setup that's too far on the Fred side of those options. If you need higher bars, pick the 5 series frame, not the 6 series, to start with. Then you won't have to use a high rise stem with a lot of spacer under it.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 08-09-09 at 11:29 AM.
#8
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 0
From: Near Sacramento
I went through the fit calculator listed above and in all the samples, it put me on too big a frame. I like a 51cm TopTube, and so would go with a bike that was within 1 cm of this.
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#9
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 577
From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
^^^^
Top tube length means nothing without considering the seat tube angle that goes with it. The two work together to create the frame's reach. A longer 52cm TT can fit the same a a 51cm is the STA on the former is a little over 1 degree less.
Top tube length means nothing without considering the seat tube angle that goes with it. The two work together to create the frame's reach. A longer 52cm TT can fit the same a a 51cm is the STA on the former is a little over 1 degree less.
#10
climber has-been




Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 6,037
From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: Scott Addict RC Pro & R1, Felt Z1
#12
Clinging to guns/religion
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: Pgh, PA
Bikes: Litspd Cyx/ Paragon/ LHT/ Madone 5.2/ Spclzd TT/ Boone/ Lynskey 27.5/ Pugs / Colnago CLX
5'7" when im not intoxicated.
6'3" 220lbs with a beer in my hand.
54cm Pro Fit. I ordered the 5mm set back seat mast. Stock is like 25mm set back.
Swap out 100mm stem for a 90mm
I also ordered 170mm cranks.
Dialed in and feels great.
Biggest problem i had was adjusting to the longer body of the ultegra shifter. I have since been told that Sram with the ergo adjustments are the way to go.
6'3" 220lbs with a beer in my hand.
54cm Pro Fit. I ordered the 5mm set back seat mast. Stock is like 25mm set back.
Swap out 100mm stem for a 90mm
I also ordered 170mm cranks.
Dialed in and feels great.
Biggest problem i had was adjusting to the longer body of the ultegra shifter. I have since been told that Sram with the ergo adjustments are the way to go.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 577
From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
The number 53 means nothing unless it's got more definition. In the old days it was more clear whether a frame was measured center to center or center to top. My 51cm LOOK is the same as a 53cm frame measured center to top. Trek uses the most oddball method of all brands, so their 54cm 6 series has the same head tube length and vertical size as some 51cm LOOK frames, like my KG 461. Both have the same 120mm head tube length. The size numbers are pretty worthless.






