First Bike - 6ft 30 inseam 54cm or 56cm?
08-17-09, 11:18 PM
#26
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Yeah I did that tonight. I'm ~32 in book to crotch inseam.
08-17-09, 11:24 PM
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As mentioned, pant inseam is not the usual measurement used for bike fitting, however, I'm also 6 ft with a 30" pant inseam. I have a 54cm Trek and a 56cm Moto. It is a classic flat top bar, Trek/Fuji type measurement.
I find the 56 most comfortable. It's a little more upright, and I don't feel cramped. On the 54 Trek I always felt my butt should be about an inch further back.
After I got my 56 Moto I got a Pro Fit. In retrospect, the correct way would be to get fitted, then buy (or have custom built) the bike. Never the less, the tech said "wow, this bike is almost spot on. I don't usually see them this close. You wouldn't believe what I see." Now I did read a bit about fitting and adjustments, and did try to dial it in myself. And I had the experience with the 54cm Trek that told me a 56 would be better.
But I don't feel "cheated" by spending the $100 for the pro fit. In fact, I have to say of all the things I have done to my bike, the fit was the best value. It took 2.5 hours, and even the small changes he made made a big difference in comfort and power. The biggest change he made was to change the stem from the stock 110mm to a 90mm.
A lot of the club veterans recommended a fit, and they were right. I'm pretty cheap, and I do most of my own wrenching, but I took their advice on this and I'm glad.
Good luck.
I find the 56 most comfortable. It's a little more upright, and I don't feel cramped. On the 54 Trek I always felt my butt should be about an inch further back.
After I got my 56 Moto I got a Pro Fit. In retrospect, the correct way would be to get fitted, then buy (or have custom built) the bike. Never the less, the tech said "wow, this bike is almost spot on. I don't usually see them this close. You wouldn't believe what I see." Now I did read a bit about fitting and adjustments, and did try to dial it in myself. And I had the experience with the 54cm Trek that told me a 56 would be better.
But I don't feel "cheated" by spending the $100 for the pro fit. In fact, I have to say of all the things I have done to my bike, the fit was the best value. It took 2.5 hours, and even the small changes he made made a big difference in comfort and power. The biggest change he made was to change the stem from the stock 110mm to a 90mm.
A lot of the club veterans recommended a fit, and they were right. I'm pretty cheap, and I do most of my own wrenching, but I took their advice on this and I'm glad.
Good luck.
On my *** 58cm it starts cramping my neck and lower back after like 10 miles.
In regards to a fit, is it worth getting if you're on a novice rider with an entry level bike? I.e. will getting a fit have a considerable impact on my riding experience over a stock frame with some minor self-adjustments (i.e. raising/lowering seat, replacing stems, etc.)?
Thanks again!
08-18-09, 08:36 AM
#28
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Okay here are my measurements as calculated by the fit calculator.
Note these are rough and done barefeet. I am ghetto as hell and dont have a tape measure. Being that its pretty late in the evening I fashioned one out of an old LAN cable, using a piece of A4 sized paper (11 inches length) as a guide.
The Competitive Fit
The Eddy Fit
The French Fit
What y'all think? Can you help me translate these results? The frame range im reading is 53-56. amirite?
Note these are rough and done barefeet. I am ghetto as hell and dont have a tape measure. Being that its pretty late in the evening I fashioned one out of an old LAN cable, using a piece of A4 sized paper (11 inches length) as a guide.
The Competitive Fit
- Seat Tube Range c-c:52.6 - 53.1
- Seat Tube range c-t:54.3 - 54.8
- Top Tube length:56.9 - 57.3
- Steam Length:11.2 - 11.8
- BB-Saddle Position:84.6 - 86.6
- Saddle-Handlebar:52.2 - 52.8
- Saddle Setback:0.9 - 1.3
The Eddy Fit
- Seat Tube Range c-c:53.8 - 54.3
- Seat Tube range c-t:55.5 - 56.0
- Top Tube length:56.9 - 57.3
- Steam Length:10.1 - 10.7
- BB-Saddle Position:83.8 - 85.8
- Saddle-Handlebar:53.0 - 53.6
- Saddle Setback:2.1 - 2.5
The French Fit
- Seat Tube Range c-c:55.5 - 56.0
- Seat Tube range c-t:57.2 - 57.7
- Top Tube length:58.1 - 58.5
- Steam Length:10.3 - 10.9
- BB-Saddle Position:82.1 - 84.1
- Saddle-Handlebar:54.7 - 55.3
- Saddle Setback:1.6 - 2.0
What y'all think? Can you help me translate these results? The frame range im reading is 53-56. amirite?
08-18-09, 11:27 AM
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Sorry for spamming. I think I understand the measurements, just looking for some input from the more experienced members.
08-18-09, 11:37 AM
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08-18-09, 11:41 AM
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FWIW, I am 5-11 with a 31 inseam. I ride a 54 and learned the same way you did that a larger frame (in my case a 57) was too large for me. While shopping around I rode a few 56's that felt correct but when I finally rode my bike (Felt F series) I preferred a 54 without question. As others have said, it really depends on the frame geometry of each particular model (NOT MFR, but MODEL).
You may do well to consider testing a 55cm frame if you can find one, I think bianchi's C4C line is odd sizes if memory serves.
You may do well to consider testing a 55cm frame if you can find one, I think bianchi's C4C line is odd sizes if memory serves.
08-18-09, 12:07 PM
#32
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you really do need a good tape measure and a good friend (preferably one of the opposite sex to do the inseam) to do the measurements correct.
Lets not forget that after you do the fit you might be a 56 on one bike frame and a 54 on another. It really depends on the geometry of the frame. You can also change the stem length to get the correct length, assuming the top tube is close to what you need, and obviously not too long.
Lets not forget that after you do the fit you might be a 56 on one bike frame and a 54 on another. It really depends on the geometry of the frame. You can also change the stem length to get the correct length, assuming the top tube is close to what you need, and obviously not too long.
08-18-09, 01:18 PM
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In any case, my measurements, while crude should be within +/- 1 inch of accuracy.
Good enough?
08-18-09, 01:52 PM
#34
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If you don't have time to get a tape measure, you've got no time to buy a bike, let alone ride it.
08-18-09, 02:31 PM
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NO. 1 inch is just over 2.5cm and frames sizes are in 2cm increments. Even with good measurements, I would put almost no value in the results of the CC fit calculator. They cover such a huge range of possible fits that they might cover 2-3 different frame sizes. The results never mention the seat tube angle, which is vital in figuring the frame reach. A TT length without a seat tube angle to go with it is meaningless.
If you don't have time to get a tape measure, you've got no time to buy a bike, let alone ride it.
If you don't have time to get a tape measure, you've got no time to buy a bike, let alone ride it.
Okay I'll go out and get the necc measurements. For what its worth I don't think I'll ever get super serious about this, more like a weekend enthusiast.
Would you recommend biting the bullet and just getting a professional fit? Will it make a huge impact on my riding experience?
Another hobby of mine is photography and while also very technical the idea is to pick up a camera and start shooting. With cycling its like if I don't get it right to begin I'm screweeeed.
08-18-09, 02:43 PM
#36
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A professional fit is always a good idea, but finding a good fitter isn't as easy as walking into any LBS. Some will sell you anything that you can straddle.
All you really need is an accurate inseam measurement to firm crotch contact in bare feet. Most recommend putting a large book between your legs and standing against a wall to take the measurement. The rest of the measurements are only of value to plug into the fit calculator that produces worthless results, IMO. Beyond an accurate inseam, you need to get onto a real bike to evaluate the reach (stem and TT length) and drop (bar height), after the saddle is first set to height and proper fore/aft position.
The main issue of beginners is they can usually tolerate only a small drop from the saddle to the bars and less reach than experienced riders. The fit that feels comfortable now will be nothing like an experienced rider would use. If you're only riding recreationally, then the fit may not be as critical.
For an experienced rider like me, I have a very narrow range of head tube length and frame reach that I would find acceptable.
All you really need is an accurate inseam measurement to firm crotch contact in bare feet. Most recommend putting a large book between your legs and standing against a wall to take the measurement. The rest of the measurements are only of value to plug into the fit calculator that produces worthless results, IMO. Beyond an accurate inseam, you need to get onto a real bike to evaluate the reach (stem and TT length) and drop (bar height), after the saddle is first set to height and proper fore/aft position.
The main issue of beginners is they can usually tolerate only a small drop from the saddle to the bars and less reach than experienced riders. The fit that feels comfortable now will be nothing like an experienced rider would use. If you're only riding recreationally, then the fit may not be as critical.
For an experienced rider like me, I have a very narrow range of head tube length and frame reach that I would find acceptable.
08-18-09, 03:17 PM
#37
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Hey thanks for the time writing out such a detailed response. It appears we have a similar body "geometry" given our height + pant inseam. Do you find being more "spread" out hurts your back and such?
On my *** 58cm it starts cramping my neck and lower back after like 10 miles.
In regards to a fit, is it worth getting if you're on a novice rider with an entry level bike? I.e. will getting a fit have a considerable impact on my riding experience over a stock frame with some minor self-adjustments (i.e. raising/lowering seat, replacing stems, etc.)?
Thanks again!
On my *** 58cm it starts cramping my neck and lower back after like 10 miles.
In regards to a fit, is it worth getting if you're on a novice rider with an entry level bike? I.e. will getting a fit have a considerable impact on my riding experience over a stock frame with some minor self-adjustments (i.e. raising/lowering seat, replacing stems, etc.)?
Thanks again!
Finding a good profiter might be a problem however. The advantage is that they "build" the perfect bike for you, and you get to "ride" it stationary. It 's not a long ride, but you get the feel. You will then get the measurements for your perfect bike, and you can shop for one that comes close.
I was having a sore back after about 10 miles before I got fit. It went away after the fit.
The fit calculators are nice, but you do need accurate measurements, and you should have some one else do them. The problem I see with them is 1) which one do you pick? and 2) they are only #s. Riding a real bike is what is important.
To throw another monkey wrench into the equation there is the whole issue of standard vs compact frames, and how they are sized. That was one reason I picked the Moto Immortal 56cm. I knew it would fit based on experience with the Trek 1200 54cm. And it did.
08-18-09, 03:33 PM
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A professional fit is always a good idea, but finding a good fitter isn't as easy as walking into any LBS. Some will sell you anything that you can straddle.
All you really need is an accurate inseam measurement to firm crotch contact in bare feet. Most recommend putting a large book between your legs and standing against a wall to take the measurement. The rest of the measurements are only of value to plug into the fit calculator that produces worthless results, IMO. Beyond an accurate inseam, you need to get onto a real bike to evaluate the reach (stem and TT length) and drop (bar height), after the saddle is first set to height and proper fore/aft position.
The main issue of beginners is they can usually tolerate only a small drop from the saddle to the bars and less reach than experienced riders. The fit that feels comfortable now will be nothing like an experienced rider would use. If you're only riding recreationally, then the fit may not be as critical.
For an experienced rider like me, I have a very narrow range of head tube length and frame reach that I would find acceptable.
All you really need is an accurate inseam measurement to firm crotch contact in bare feet. Most recommend putting a large book between your legs and standing against a wall to take the measurement. The rest of the measurements are only of value to plug into the fit calculator that produces worthless results, IMO. Beyond an accurate inseam, you need to get onto a real bike to evaluate the reach (stem and TT length) and drop (bar height), after the saddle is first set to height and proper fore/aft position.
The main issue of beginners is they can usually tolerate only a small drop from the saddle to the bars and less reach than experienced riders. The fit that feels comfortable now will be nothing like an experienced rider would use. If you're only riding recreationally, then the fit may not be as critical.
For an experienced rider like me, I have a very narrow range of head tube length and frame reach that I would find acceptable.
Given my inseam would you lean towards the 56 or 54?
08-19-09, 12:32 PM
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Your ability to even stand over a 58 means your original inseam measurements are suspect at best.
