WalksOn2Wheels

Ok, so I am aware that many bikes come with many different groupsets. When I first got into cycling, I picked up an old-school steel frame Specialized with Shimano 105 components with the downtube shifters. The rear cassette was index shift while the front ring was all by feel. That got pretty old, but the bike only cost me 200 bucks.

After hitting that one hard for a good season, I dropped out of cycling for a few years (I got all busy and married). About a year ago, I picked up a very entry level bike with Shimano Sora derailleurs and STI shifters. My plan is to slowly upgrade pieces on the bike like a better wheelset, pedals and seat. Then I'll pick up a nice frame to upgrade and just switch everything over.

So my question is, do I need to worry about upgrading my groupset as well, or will pretty my Shimano stuff be able to mount to pretty much any frame? And what's the real difference? Is it a weight issue, or do different groupsets work that much better than others?

Psimet2001 

Go test ride some bikes with the groups you are wondering about and draw your own conclusions.

WalksOn2Wheels

Granted, you are correct in that personal preference is paramount, but what about my other two questions?

Psimet2001 

I only see 1 other question - will it fit. Yes. Depending on the swap you might have to swap out BB cups (unlikely but possible).

WalksOn2Wheels

I do think the BB will be an issue for the frame I have in mind, but my other question was how much of a factor is weight from groupset to groupset? I like the STI shifters (lightyears ahead of my downtube shifters) and the Sora derailleurs work well enough. If they will fit I will stick with them. So what is the big draw for the higher end components? Is it about weight?

Psimet2001 

Again....Go test ride some bikes with the groups you are wondering about and draw your own conclusions.

...and you won't have to change your BB odds are. The only reason you would is if one of the frames used a BB30 standard or if one of them was an Italian BB.

There are many differences between groups. Many disagree about how much of a difference some of those differences make. Is it about weight? Sure. Is it about durability? Sometimes. Is it about performance (feel,etc)? Sure......looks? sure...

Let me start by saying....In My Humble Opinion (IMHO) - The gear in Shimano's lineup below the 105 level is kinda crappy. Sure it performs fine for most riders and is sold on a butt-ton of entry level gear but really....105 on up is the ticket.

Just so you know this is kind of like asking Campy, Shimano, or SRAM....

umd

Sora especially works differently from the others. Unless you end up getting a very high end frame, it's usually cheaper to get a complete bike than move everything over to a new frame.

surfengine

the correct answer is YES, you should upgrade the sora ASAP.

frankum

+1

mr handy

Honestly I think it would be better to ride what you have and save for a new bike then it would be to upgrade piece by peace. By the time you have the cash for a new bike you will most likely know exactly what you want. If you upgrade piece by peace, you will also never have the satisfaction of a completely new bike, and the upgrade bug may never go away.

If something brake, then replace it/upgrade it. Upgrades like Bars and saddle do not count as they are for comfort, fit, and performance.

challaday

You are asking two basic questions: What's the difference among groupsets and can I move all the parts from frame to frame.

Others have addressed the differences in groupsets. Of the modern indexed systems, I have had bikes with Dura-Ace, Record, and Centaur so I may not have the widest experience, but overall there are incremental changes to smoothness, precision and speed of shifting as you go up the line in any company's groups. Weight also goes down, but many times durability goes down as well, especially in chains and cassettes.

When moving from one frame to another, there are a bunch of parts that are size/frame specific:

Bottom Bracket (English, Italian, etc)
Front Derailleur (Band size or braze on)
Brake Caliper Reach
Fork Steerer Diameter/Headset Style (NoThread/Integrated/Campy Integrated/too many to list)
Seat Post Diameter
Cable Lengths and styles (does the frame want a fully encased cable all the way to the rear brake or just the bare inner wire except at the ends?)

diziet

Indeed -- if durability and mechanical reliability is your concern I would recommend starting at the 105 or above level with the shimano line. The lower end stuff with my experience would need a mini overhaul every 100 miles. I just don't think it's correct to twiddle with my derailers every other day.

Staggerwing

If you have never had the experience, a short ride on a properly setup Ultegra or Dura Ace Shimano setup OR a Campy Chorus or above setup will be a seductive experience. Once you try it, you WILL find someway to justify the expense, and if you really enjoy your riding, that is not a bad thing.

Modern Shimano DA, Campy Record, and SRAM Red are a little too rich for my blood, but Ultegra, and Athena/Chorus are nice sweet spots.

PS I have no experience with the SRAM road group, although I would like to try one. All reports are even the lowest level Rival shifts as well as the next up Force, and differs mainly in carbon fiber contact.

WalksOn2Wheels

Well, damnit, you guys are right anyway. After looking at available bikes, it would be just as much, if a little more, just to buy a 105 equipped bike outright than to go through my mad scheme. If anything, I can save up and upgrade those later on if I feel I need to. The setup I have now does require pretty frequent tuning to keep in line.