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New to Road Bikes and cycling in general - a penny for your thoughts

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

New to Road Bikes and cycling in general - a penny for your thoughts

Old 09-09-09, 07:34 AM
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sharky nrk
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New to Road Bikes and cycling in general - a penny for your thoughts

Well long story short - I run a bit 20 mpw or so to try and not be so fat. I know long term my knees and ankles will not appreicate it. My boss and friend cannot run due to knees and ankle type issues, so they started cycling. I borrowed a walmart bike or two and rode with them for a few weeks (probably 200-300 miles total from 20ish mile rides). The walmart bike sucks - alot - but I kinda liked the cycling. My boss has a 2009 Trek 1.5, and my friend a 2008 Trek 1.2.

So I started looking for a used road bike in my price range (which with a young family is not very high). I looked and looked and looked and finally found this and bought it.



Its a 1991 Cannondale RS600

This is what I know from a little bit of research.

One at 5'11" I am at the top of its 54cm frame size but still within range (i fit comfortably on the bike as well) and the frame is in great shape.
Two its got all Shimano 105 components - which are not the best but are not junk either (entry level race items from what I gather).
Three, she is 21 lbs on the scale and has 14 speed gearset with a 7 speed rear hub and downtube shifters (which are really pretty easy to use and I kinda like)
And finally I rode a 20 mile road trail with my boss and buddy and had ZERO issues keeping up.

Now I am open to any thoughts and criticism and help. Remember I am new to this and am eager to learn. A few open ended questions -

Did I make a good purchae for $350?

On an older bike like this - what is the best upgrade path for components and parts down the road (or just a new bike?)?

What did I miss that is glaring to a seasoned rider?
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Old 09-09-09, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sharky nrk

What did I miss that is glaring to a seasoned rider?
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Old 09-09-09, 07:47 AM
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Looks like a nice bike, and 350 sounds like a good price to me... but I have no idea, I would be pleased though.

I would ride it as it is, maybe new tires if it needs them. first thing I would do is get a flat repair kit and seat wedge, and a helmet. After that the first upgrade would be clipless peddles and shoes.

After that I would take an, if it breaks replace it approach.
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Old 09-09-09, 07:54 AM
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I'm a noob too. Returning road cyclist after a 10+ year haitus.

First, I believe that is a great buy as those bikes were fairly pricey back 1991. Nothing wrong with the downtube shifters. I used to have them on my old KHS and they worked just fine.

I agree....if you are at all serious about road biking, go for the clipless pedals and shoes. They are so much better! As for other upgrades, I wouldn't bother with any as your bike is good enough for your intended use. Maybe upgrade to modern tires if those are still circa 1991 tires. Also the brake pads. Other than that, just your personal equipment like proper cycling shorts, jersey, helmet, etc. After riding around on my mountain bike in MTB specific shorts, tennis shoes, T-shirt, etc., for two months, I realized that the road bike specific apparel is more than just for looks. They are functional and they look the way they do for a good reason.
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Old 09-09-09, 09:35 AM
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Great price for a starter bike. Score! Now get off your computer and go ride it.
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Old 09-09-09, 10:20 AM
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looks like a very good deal - agree go clipless - spare tube/seat bag tools etc. then just ride. I would invest in good cycling bibs and or shorts and jerseys as comfort will keep you out longer and keep you coming back. I'd suggest keep running as well and not give it up entirely as both activities require different muscles and give different workouts. I see a lot of serious riders who could lose some weight but not a lot of serious runners with the same issue.
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Old 09-09-09, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by sharky nrk
Well long story short - I run a bit 20 mpw or so to try and not be so fat. I know long term my knees and ankles will not appreicate it. My boss and friend cannot run due to knees and ankle type issues, so they started cycling. I borrowed a walmart bike or two and rode with them for a few weeks (probably 200-300 miles total from 20ish mile rides). The walmart bike sucks - alot - but I kinda liked the cycling. My boss has a 2009 Trek 1.5, and my friend a 2008 Trek 1.2.

So I started looking for a used road bike in my price range (which with a young family is not very high). I looked and looked and looked and finally found this and bought it.



Its a 1991 Cannondale RS600

This is what I know from a little bit of research.

One at 5'11" I am at the top of its 54cm frame size but still within range (i fit comfortably on the bike as well) and the frame is in great shape.
Two its got all Shimano 105 components - which are not the best but are not junk either (entry level race items from what I gather).
Three, she is 21 lbs on the scale and has 14 speed gearset with a 7 speed rear hub and downtube shifters (which are really pretty easy to use and I kinda like)
And finally I rode a 20 mile road trail with my boss and buddy and had ZERO issues keeping up.

Now I am open to any thoughts and criticism and help. Remember I am new to this and am eager to learn. A few open ended questions -

Did I make a good purchae for $350?

On an older bike like this - what is the best upgrade path for components and parts down the road (or just a new bike?)?

What did I miss that is glaring to a seasoned rider?
If it's in good shape (looks good in the pic) and has 105 $350 isn't bad at all, keep in mind that 105 is a good quality group so enjoy what you have. Definitely look into getting clipless pedals as it will improve your cycling noticably. I wouldn't start looking at upgrades just yet other than improving your fitness which when you're starting out is the first thing that needs to improve. As you continue to log in miles and imporve your fitness what needs upgrading equipment-wise will make become evident.
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Old 09-09-09, 10:42 AM
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The used market today is a bit crazy. $350 doesn't seem out of place at all, but still seems like too much for an 18 year old bike with 18 year old drive train technology. All those technology improvements don't really mean a whole heck of a lot in a performance difference for an average rider though either, so I guess it's not bad.

That frame looks sparkly new, so I'd guess that it was kept in pretty good shape over its life.
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Old 09-09-09, 10:47 AM
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^^ well how different or what is the difference with 105 circa '91 and 105 circa '09

I too felt that $350 for an 18 year old bike was EEK - but from what I have seen I know you can't touch a new road bike with 105 or higher for 4 times that

also I am open to recommendation for pedals and shoes
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Old 09-09-09, 10:54 AM
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Sounds like a good deal. Ride lots.
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Old 09-09-09, 11:03 AM
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Its a great road bike for someone getting into the sport. The downtube shifters are fine as well if that is all you have ever used but once you ride a bike with brifters you'll be hooked. The 7 speed is very difficult to upgrade as almost all of the components would need to be upgraded but again nothing that needs to be replaced anyways. Get in some miles, and since your in Southern Indiana, take a look at The Hilly Hundred coming up in October it would be a good goal and a great way to meet other cyclists. Its a 2 day ride 50 miles each day but its hilly (for Indiana anyways). I'd look on Performance Bike (or the like)website and look at clearance shoes and pedals can't go wrong - if you know your size.
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Old 09-09-09, 11:06 AM
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Great bike. You did well. Here is some advice from a certified Fred (a low-tech, non-racing, utilitarian cyclist).

I agree with others, you should get clipless pedals. Most low-tech guys that ride a lot in traffic around here, prefer double-sided SPD pedals with lighter mountain bike shoes. They are easy to clip in-and-out of at traffic lights, the shoes allow you to pedal and get out of the intersection if you miss clipping in, and mountain bike shoes are easier to walk in than regular road bike shoes.


You can get these pedals rather inexpensively at Performance or similar ones at Nashbar online:


The shoes have treads on the bottom, so that you don't walk on the metal cleat. I would try pairs on, to make sure that they fit right. Fit is more important than brand with cycling shoes.


If they are original, I would also plan on having to replace the back rim after about a year or so. Lots of bike shops can true the tire after it gets wobbly, but they make much more sturdy wheels now, and I think that it is worth it to just replace it with something like a Mavic Open Pro, or other wheel with a deeper "V" profile.

I would ride the tires until you wear them out, and then replace them with a puncture-resistant tire like Continental Ultra Gatorskins, Specialized Armadillos, or Schwalbe Marathons.

Have fun riding!




Last edited by Pinyon; 09-09-09 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 09-09-09, 11:39 AM
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From everything I have heard that is a great crit frame and FWIW I sold a 105 7spd group with wheels for something like $150 sometime last year to someone on this board so approx $200 for the frame ain't bad.

Put new tires on it I the current ones are cracked or in bad condition and get some clipless pedals.

You may find that frame a little harsh or twitchy for a long haul rider. Being a 7spd setup I would just ride what you have until you have enough $$ to buy a whole new group and wheels. The hub on the rear is different with 7 spd and you would need to use a spacer if you upgrade the wheel before thr drivetrain.
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Old 09-09-09, 11:53 AM
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Get a seat bag with spare tube and some pump (c02 or hand, or both), preferably learn how to use them.

Pedals that others mentioned.

Ride.

105 is "entry level" only if you like to spend money... it's like saying a Corvette is an entry level sports car.

Shimano has 2200, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace.
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Old 09-09-09, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by clarkgriswold
105 is "entry level" only if you like to spend money... it's like saying a Corvette is an entry level sports car.

Shimano has 2200, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace.
Not at that time they didn't. They had 105, 600 (ultegra) and DA. - basically....there were some others but in 91 it was still pretty much that lineup. The rest started to hit the scene in the mid 90's
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Old 09-09-09, 12:59 PM
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That's a fine bike and if it all works fine it's well worth what you paid. I would ride that bike as it is, and instead invest in the "other stuff" that goes along with riding. I would buy pedals, shorts, jerseys, a good helmet, shoes, gloves, glasses, a floor pump, a mini-pump (or CO2), a mini-tool, etc., etc.

As far as upgrading the bike, don't. It is probably too small, and you will get a lot better bang for your buck buying a new bike in a year than throwing any amount of money into that one. The good part is that you will probably get all your money back when you sell the Cannondale, and all that stuff I listed above will work with any bike you own.
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Old 09-09-09, 01:39 PM
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Psimet2001 does that mean the 105 group I have is not the same quality as a 105 group now? or rather that shimano has made three lines that are cheaper in the 18 years since. Also it had new tires, brake shoes, chain, and tape put on this year so they are in good shape. I don't know if the 7speed hub and wheelset can be replaced with a 8 or greater due to frame spacing. I fully plan on riding the bike as is for a year or so to get conditioned and learn how to ride.

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Old 09-09-09, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MCODave
That's a fine bike and if it all works fine it's well worth what you paid. I would ride that bike as it is, and instead invest in the "other stuff" that goes along with riding. I would buy pedals, shorts, jerseys, a good helmet, shoes, gloves, glasses, a floor pump, a mini-pump (or CO2), a mini-tool, etc., etc.

As far as upgrading the bike, don't. It is probably too small, and you will get a lot better bang for your buck buying a new bike in a year than throwing any amount of money into that one. The good part is that you will probably get all your money back when you sell the Cannondale, and all that stuff I listed above will work with any bike you own.
yeah, I knew that there were many "accessory items" necessary. I have already purchased shorts and a floor pump, and will be looking into getting a small bag and "emergency items" like c02 mini and extra tubes.

About the jerseys - I ride with the bike shorts and an under armour type of shirt - what does a jersey do verses a wicking exercise shirt?
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Old 09-09-09, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sharky nrk
About the jerseys - I ride with the bike shorts and an under armour type of shirt - what does a jersey do verses a wicking exercise shirt?
Jerseys have pockets for stuff and a zipper to allow some air in. Plus they make you look like a serious rider.
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Old 09-09-09, 01:54 PM
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cycling jerseys gives you rear pockets for energy bars etc for longer rides - zippered front either half length or full length for ventiliation. They also are longer in the back with elastic bottoms so when in riding postion or in the drops they keep from creeping up your back. Fit tighter as well.
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Old 09-09-09, 05:12 PM
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I think you got a decent deal. After having been a mountain biker in my teens I am new to the road and got sticker shock when I went to the shops to price out a new bike. I picked up my '92 cannondale r600 off of Craigslist for $300 earlier this summer with brand new tires (talked the guy down from $400). It's been nothing but fun ever since. I saw the same bike sell on Ebay for $480 plus $70 shipping so I think we did pretty well!! I have since switched out the fork and steering components to a carbon fiber fork courtesy of Ebay as well as switched to RSX brifters also courtesy of Ebay. I also switched the small chain ring from a 42 to a 39 to help with the hilly terrain in my area. The drivetrain works like a charm. I am about $500 into this bike and have no plans to upgrade anything else on it.

I definitely recommend going clipless and investing in appropriate clothing. Oh, and a flat repair kit and seat wedge-style bag are a MUST. You wouldn't want to go on a road trip with your family without a spare tire and you definitely don't want to flat half way into a ride with no backup.

Welcome to the road!!

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Old 09-09-09, 05:25 PM
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^^ awesome - does your bike also share the 7 cog rear setup - so the rsx brifters work with the 2/7 setup? also could you let me know what parts you used to update the front of the bike.
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Old 09-09-09, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sharky nrk
^^ awesome - does your bike also share the 7 cog rear setup - so the rsx brifters work with the 2/7 setup? also could you let me know what parts you used to update the front of the bike.
It does share the 2x7 set up. I got a used Time Stiletto fork with a headset off of ebay for $100. The stem was also purchased from ebay ($10). The bike is older and has a 1" headtube so your options are limited. You could purchase a carbon fork with a threaded steer tube from nashbar for about $80 or hit up ebay for a threadless fork for about $100. The threadless fork would require a new stem and headset as well, but would also provide an opportunity to make sure that the bike fits well. Regarding the shifters, IIRC, RSX brifters are the only 7 speed sti without the thumb lever. They mated perfectly with the rest of the 105 drivetrain.
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Old 09-09-09, 09:22 PM
  #24  
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I think you did real well. That is a good price for that bike.
105 was always considered entry level racing drivetrain and works very well.
Give it a good cleaning, lube and adjusting as needed and it will perform very well for you.

As funds allow dump the pedals and go with a new pair of pedals and shoes...we can all go on for hours extolling the differences and benefits of shoes...and we will hehehe.
If money is a big issue short term buy a pair of toe clips and straps for around $15. They alone will be a big improvement over pedals without clips/straps...more efficient and safer as well when going fast.

Honestly I would not put a dime into the bike for other than a new chain/cassette, etc. just to keep it running good. You need or will need...you don't say what you have for "gear"...a fair amount of gear and none of it is cheap but by buying carefully you can get good deals.

Nice bike...now get out and ride.
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Old 09-09-09, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Not at that time they didn't. They had 105, 600 (ultegra) and DA. - basically....there were some others but in 91 it was still pretty much that lineup. The rest started to hit the scene in the mid 90's
I'm pretty sure that the '91 Shimano lineup was: Tourney, RX 100, 105, 600, and DA.

To the OP: Good find and not too expensive.
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