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Old 11-11-09, 08:27 PM
  #126  
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neither my wife or I had any idea about rings. I asked what she liked for a while, but more or less researched it myself by shopping for a ring during my lunch breaks.

walked in with a budget and style in mind and nothing really took my attention, so after a few months of really pulling my hair out and stress, I just walked into a store I was really happy with and just picked a ring, thought just get one that looks good and get it over with. I didn't even ask the price. It was about 30-40% more than I had planned and once my wife got the insurance papers she was puzzled why I had spent so much. It was well over double what she had imagined. Me too, haha I was adding up the cost of my new dream bike in my head at the same time.

My wife too is in design and heavily involved in fashion now, I guess I am really lucky as she likes my taste. She loved the ring.

best $$ I have ever spent.

edit, oh yeah almost 10 years ago now too. Whats this about the 10 year anniversary ring?
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Old 11-11-09, 08:51 PM
  #127  
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Nick, as a fellow New Jerseyian, I'd go to the diamond district in Manhattan as another poster recommended. Bring cash, and be willing to negotiate or walk out.

I got lucky, as Mrs. Matt2.8's stone was a 2.02 carat stone that was a family heirloom. I put it into a platnium setting with her help.

The ring is worth what our 3 cars are woth all together! I could never have afforded it back when we were just a few years out of college.
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Old 11-11-09, 08:57 PM
  #128  
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Don't fret about it too much. In the whole scheme of what you are embarking on it is the last thing you need to worry about. I say that now but I remember freaking a little about the ring. I bought an emerald cut around .5 k. That was in 1992 and I can happily say that things are still going great and the ring is still on her hand but it is the last thing in the world anyone thinks about. In fact, I just had to ask her how big it was and she really didn't know. So the .5 karat is our best estimate. I do remember paying around $1500 for the ring then. Good luck!
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Old 11-11-09, 08:57 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by wanders
What she wanted.


^^ this... over........and over........and over again.

JK, actually when I popped the question, i couldn't afford a diamond like I wanted to buy her. About 2 years after we married I could, and bought her a whopper that made up for her patience and not getting one when I first proposed. Heck, she said yes anyway... Still happy about that.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:01 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Tcchap
In 1992 ...I do remember paying around $1500 for the ring then.
If you had bought Dell stock at that time, you'd have over $1,000,000 now.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt2.8NJ
Nick, as a fellow New Jerseyian, I'd go to the diamond district in Manhattan as another poster recommended. Bring cash, and be willing to negotiate or walk out.

I got lucky, as Mrs. Matt2.8's stone was a 2.02 carat stone that was a family heirloom. I put it into a platnium setting with her help.

The ring is worth what our 3 cars are woth all together! I could never have afforded it back when we were just a few years out of college.
I don't think anyone pays retail in Joisey.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:06 PM
  #132  
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i bought her a house. we've been married 9 years. i tell her, if she really wants a diamond, she can pick out the one she wants. she's never taken me up on it.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:07 PM
  #133  
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I was lucky enough to get her grandmother's ring from her mom. I'm not saying you should ask for permission, but if you have a good relationship with her parents this might be something to find out or talk to them about. If you're trying to keep it a secret, talk to her friends. Find out if she's said anything about what she wants.

I'd suggest finding an antique jewelry store. This was the route I was planning on going before I found out there was a ring waiting for her. They have everything imaginable, and it's nice to think of jewelry that has a story, I think. Like the others have said, negotiate with them.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:10 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by NickDavid
Ok, I'm posting this here because your brains work much better than that of the FOO readers/posters. Mods, I beg you, please don't move this into the sea.

Bottom line is, I'm looking for some info on engagement rings. Yes, I'm sure I'll get the responses of, "Don't do it," and my friends who follow my posts will give me crap later. I know there's tons of info on the web, but what better way to do research than by getting opinions and advice from fellow cyclists.

I hate to spend money on a diamond when it could go toward a beautiful new bike or a set of carbon dubs (yes, I just called them dubs) for my future TT rig. And I get infuriated at the thought of buying such a worthless piece of crap that sits on someones hand. Unfortunately, I must take this plunge because no other woman will put up with my **** or infatuation with cycling. In fact, she often purchases me gear and supports my racing/training habit and those women are hard to come by. I've also been pushing the whole, "the man gets an engagement present of equal value from the woman," deal. It's working well

So, I ask you lads; what did you get your woman? If you don't mind sharing the info without fear of ridicule from other members, I would appreciate it greatly. How much did you guys spend. What type of cut did you go with? What setting design did you do? And more importantly, where did you get your deal?

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You're in deep man! I bought my future wife a vintage ring from an antique dealer who specialized in these. Much more fun and it meant more. But remember, you have got to give if you want to get.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:36 PM
  #135  
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I'm lucky -- my wife defines "low maintenance." I spent about $5000 in today's dollars (gosh inflation is terrible). She still wears it 42 years later. Amortizing that over the years comes to about $120/yr. Not bad for the best deal you'll ever make.
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Old 11-11-09, 09:54 PM
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I popped the question on the 11th of October, this year. It was quite a big hit to my future swag (a quarq cinqo saturn power meter) at ~$2500. I did not get a diamond as the main stone, mostly because it's too plain in my eyes. The money wasn't the object, and I wanted to give her something unique. The two-month salary thing is a load of marketing crap put forward by De Beers.

To do something unique I went to a custom jewelry maker. I had a very good idea of what I (read: what she liked) wanted. I picked out a very deep-blue sapphire and we designed the ring around the stone. We didn't even talk price until he was ready to order the metals. She had no idea what was coming.

The coolest aspect about it is that I know nobody else has a ring like this one, and this one was designed specifically for my wife to be.

Here is what she got:

18K gold band, pave (add the accent over the e) diamonds with a cathedral-type setting... well, the setting is platinum with the gold coming up to give the appearance of a cathedral.


No, it did not cost as much as my bike. Who cares?
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Old 11-11-09, 10:03 PM
  #137  
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My wife started reading this thread and is still befuddled about the diamond thing. She just can't imagine wearing that much money. I guess we're both more receptive to the idea of a ring, and not as much the ring itself. So we went as cheap as possible; titanium bands from the internet! (we've been married a little more than a year, so keep that in mind)
Of course, we also got engaged/married very shortly after I had an accident requiring a titanium rod to be placed into my tibia, and that tends to impact finances more than a little. We managed to do wedding/dress/rings/etc for right around $300.

I really take my wife for granted.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:18 PM
  #138  
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^ titanium rod placed into your tibia? that sounds.. scary/cool LOL. technically you're a robot xD, but seriously, what is it for? did your whole tibia become shatter beyond repair?

and silver, lovely ring. it truly is something different. i might even be afraid of walking down the street with a sapphire on my fingers
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Old 11-11-09, 10:23 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by wanders
What she wanted.
If you have to be told this, then the your gonna really suck at this marraige thing. She has known since she was four.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:24 PM
  #140  
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***Warning Thread Hi-Jacking in progress****************
A little humor for the 41 since this is all OT anyway.

Recently a "Husband Shopping Center" opened in NJ, where women could go to choose a husband from among many men.

It was laid out in five floors, with the men increasing in positive attributes as you ascended. The only rule was, once you opened the door to any floor, you HAD to choose a man from that floor; If you went up a floor,you couldn't go back down except to leave the place, never to return.

A couple of girlfriends went to the shopping center to find some husbands...

First floor
The door had a sign saying, "These men have jobs and love kids. "The women read the sign and said, "Well, that's better than not having a job, or not loving kids, but I wonder what's further up?" So up they went.

Second floor
The sign read, "These men have high paying jobs, love kids, and are extremely good looking." Hmmm, said the ladies. But, I wonder what's further up?

Third floor
This sign read, "These men have high paying jobs, are extremely good looking, love kids and help with the housework." Wow! Said the women. Very tempting, BUT, there's more further up! And up they went.

Fourth floor
This door had a sign saying "These men have high paying jobs, love kids, are extremely good looking, help with the housework, and have a strong romantic streak." Oh, mercy me. But just think! What must be awaiting us further on!

So up to the fifth floor they went.

Fifth floor
The sign on that door said, "This floor is empty and exists only to prove that women are ******** impossible to please.

[except for your gal NickD. Congratz on the decision to get engaged]
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Old 11-11-09, 10:28 PM
  #141  
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Yeah, having that much money on my finger scares me too. My track record with expensive jewellery is terrible. Not all women are bamboozled by the de Beers marketing. If I had to have an engagement ring (I don't really see the point but Mr Coffeecake insists) I'd rather have a simple white gold or platinum band, with maybe some brilliants tossed in. To me it's not the appearance of the wedding ring that's important, it's what it means.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:32 PM
  #142  
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how do you take your gf to the jewelery store? dont you skip out on the whole propose with ring thing? or do people not do that anymore lol
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Old 11-11-09, 10:33 PM
  #143  
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Mine wears a vintage engagement ring from an estate jeweler, and we both wear bands from the jewelry mart downtown. We picked them out together. She just didn't know I had bought the engagement ring, since we had both decided "it was probably too expensive for us right now."

I proposed with a ring I made out of tinfoil, but then surprised her with the engagement ring right afterwards. She said yes, even after the foil ring

She still loves her rings.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:33 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by Kurogashi
^ titanium rod placed into your tibia? that sounds.. scary/cool LOL. technically you're a robot xD, but seriously, what is it for? did your whole tibia become shatter beyond repair?
I do recognize my cyborg status.

In short, my brother was cutting down an old tree and it fell on my leg, which broke it. I needed the rod, a week in a hospital, and a picc line for a month. My girlfriend (wife) took care of me for the 4 months I was out of work...in our 400 sq apt. We spent all day, every day together, and loved it. So then we got married. Simple and good.

Last edited by hobo #3; 11-11-09 at 10:36 PM. Reason: relavance
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Old 11-11-09, 10:34 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by trek2.3bike
I'm lucky -- my wife defines "low maintenance." I spent about $5000 in today's dollars (gosh inflation is terrible). She still wears it 42 years later. Amortizing that over the years comes to about $120/yr. Not bad for the best deal you'll ever make.
My wife actually considered wearing just the wedding band and not the engagement ring after the wedding. I told her with how much I spent, she should wear it until she dies. Women in her family frequently live to be over 100.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:37 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by SteelCan
***Warning Thread Hi-Jacking in progress****************
A little humor for the 41 since this is all OT anyway.

Recently a "Husband Shopping Center" opened in NJ, where women could go to choose a husband from among many men.

It was laid out in five floors, with the men increasing in positive attributes as you ascended. The only rule was, once you opened the door to any floor, you HAD to choose a man from that floor; If you went up a floor,you couldn't go back down except to leave the place, never to return.

A couple of girlfriends went to the shopping center to find some husbands...

First floor
The door had a sign saying, "These men have jobs and love kids. "The women read the sign and said, "Well, that's better than not having a job, or not loving kids, but I wonder what's further up?" So up they went.

Second floor
The sign read, "These men have high paying jobs, love kids, and are extremely good looking." Hmmm, said the ladies. But, I wonder what's further up?

Third floor
This sign read, "These men have high paying jobs, are extremely good looking, love kids and help with the housework." Wow! Said the women. Very tempting, BUT, there's more further up! And up they went.

Fourth floor
This door had a sign saying "These men have high paying jobs, love kids, are extremely good looking, help with the housework, and have a strong romantic streak." Oh, mercy me. But just think! What must be awaiting us further on!

So up to the fifth floor they went.

Fifth floor
The sign on that door said, "This floor is empty and exists only to prove that women are ******** impossible to please.

[except for your gal NickD. Congratz on the decision to get engaged]

Not true. The women would have stopped on the fourth floor because they know the fifth floor man doesn't exist.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:41 PM
  #147  
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You should already know what ring she wants , just like she probably knows what bike to buy you.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:45 PM
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by Edward Jay Epstein

Have You Ever Tried to Sell a Diamond?


The diamond invention—the creation of the idea that diamonds are rare and valuable, and are essential signs of esteem—is a relatively recent development in the history of the diamond trade. Until the late nineteenth century, diamonds were found only in a few riverbeds in India and in the jungles of Brazil, and the entire world production of gem diamonds amounted to a few pounds a year. In 1870, however, huge diamond mines were discovered near the Orange River, in South Africa, where diamonds were soon being scooped out by the ton. Suddenly, the market was deluged with diamonds. The British financiers who had organized the South African mines quickly realized that their investment was endangered; diamonds had little intrinsic value—and their price depended almost entirely on their scarcity. The financiers feared that when new mines were developed in South Africa, diamonds would become at best only semiprecious gems.
The major investors in the diamond mines realized that they had no alternative but to merge their interests into a single entity that would be powerful enough to control production and perpetuate the illusion of scarcity of diamonds. The instrument they created, in 1888, was called De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., incorporated in South Africa. As De Beers took control of all aspects of the world diamond trade, it assumed many forms. In London, it operated under the innocuous name of the Diamond Trading Company. In Israel, it was known as "The Syndicate." In Europe, it was called the "C.S.O." -- initials referring to the Central Selling Organization, which was an arm of the Diamond Trading Company. And in black Africa, it disguised its South African origins under subsidiaries with names like Diamond Development Corporation and Mining Services, Inc. At its height -- for most of this century -- it not only either directly owned or controlled all the diamond mines in southern Africa but also owned diamond trading companies in England, Portugal, Israel, Belgium, Holland, and Switzerland.
De Beers proved to be the most successful cartel arrangement in the annals of modern commerce. While other commodities, such as gold, silver, copper, rubber, and grains, fluctuated wildly in response to economic conditions, diamonds have continued, with few exceptions, to advance upward in price every year since the Depression. Indeed, the cartel seemed so superbly in control of prices -- and unassailable -- that, in the late 1970s, even speculators began buying diamonds as a guard against the vagaries of inflation and recession.
The diamond invention is far more than a monopoly for fixing diamond prices; it is a mechanism for converting tiny crystals of carbon into universally recognized tokens of wealth, power, and romance. To achieve this goal, De Beers had to control demand as well as supply. Both women and men had to be made to perceive diamonds not as marketable precious stones but as an inseparable part of courtship and married life. To stabilize the market, De Beers had to endow these stones with a sentiment that would inhibit the public from ever reselling them. The illusion had to be created that diamonds were forever -- "forever" in the sense that they should never be resold.
In September of 1938, Harry Oppenheimer, son of the founder of De Beers and then twenty-nine, traveled from Johannesburg to New York City, to meet with Gerold M. Lauck, the president of N. W. Ayer, a leading advertising agency in the United States. Lauck and N. W. Ayer had been recommended to Oppenheimer by the Morgan Bank, which had helped his father consolidate the De Beers financial empire. His bankers were concerned about the price of diamonds, which had declined worldwide.
In Europe, where diamond prices had collapsed during the Depression, there seemed little possibility of restoring public confidence in diamonds. In Germany, Austria, Italy, and Spain, the notion of giving a diamond ring to commemorate an engagement had never taken hold. In England and France, diamonds were still presumed to be jewels for aristocrats rather than the masses. Furthermore, Europe was on the verge of war, and there seemed little possibility of expanding diamond sales. This left the United States as the only real market for De Beers's diamonds. In fact, in 1938 some three quarters of all the cartel's diamonds were sold for engagement rings in the United States. Most of these stones, however, were smaller and of poorer quality than those bought in Europe, and had an average price of $80 apiece. Oppenheimer and the bankers believed that an advertising campaign could persuade Americans to buy more expensive diamonds.
Oppenheimer suggested to Lauck that his agency prepare a plan for creating a new image for diamonds among Americans. He assured Lauck that De Beers had not called on any other American advertising agency with this proposal, and that if the plan met with his father's approval, N. W. Ayer would be the exclusive agents for the placement of newspaper and radio advertisements in the United States. Oppenheimer agreed to underwrite the costs of the research necessary for developing the campaign. Lauck instantly accepted the offer.
In their subsequent investigation of the American diamond market, the staff of N. W. Ayer found that since the end of World War I, in 1919, the total amount of diamonds sold in America, measured in carats, had declined by 50 percent; at the same time, the quality of the diamonds, measured in dollar value, had declined by nearly 100 percent. An Ayer memo concluded that the depressed state of the market for diamonds was "the result of the economy, changes in social attitudes and the promotion of competitive luxuries."
Although it could do little about the state of the economy, N. W. Ayer suggested that through a well-orchestrated advertising and public-relations campaign it could have a significant impact on the "social attitudes of the public at large and thereby channel American spending toward larger and more expensive diamonds instead of "competitive luxuries." Specifically, the Ayer study stressed the need to strengthen the association in the public's mind of diamonds with romance. Since "young men buy over 90% of all engagement rings" it would be crucial to inculcate in them the idea that diamonds were a gift of love: the larger and finer the diamond, the greater the expression of love. Similarly, young women had to be encouraged to view diamonds as an integral part of any romantic courtship.
Since the Ayer plan to romanticize diamonds required subtly altering the public's picture of the way a man courts -- and wins -- a woman, the advertising agency strongly suggested exploiting the relatively new medium of motion pictures. Movie idols, the paragons of romance for the mass audience, would be given diamonds to use as their symbols of indestructible love. In addition, the agency suggested offering stories and society photographs to selected magazines and newspapers which would reinforce the link between diamonds and romance. Stories would stress the size of diamonds that celebrities presented to their loved ones, and photographs would conspicuously show the glittering stone on the hand of a well-known woman. Fashion designers would talk on radio programs about the "trend towards diamonds" that Ayer planned to start. The Ayer plan also envisioned using the British royal family to help foster the romantic allure of diamonds. An Ayer memo said, "Since Great Britain has such an important interest in the diamond industry, the royal couple could be of tremendous assistance to this British industry by wearing diamonds rather than other jewels." Queen Elizabeth later went on a well-publicized trip to several South African diamond mines, and she accepted a diamond from Oppenheimer.
In addition to putting these plans into action, N. W. Ayer placed a series of lush four-color advertisements in magazines that were presumed to mold elite opinion, featuring reproductions of famous paintings by such artists as Picasso, Derain, Dali, and Dufy. The advertisements were intended to convey the idea that diamonds, like paintings, were unique works of art.
By 1941, The advertising agency reported to its client that it had already achieved impressive results in its campaign. The sale of diamonds had increased by 55 percent in the United States since 1938, reversing the previous downward trend in retail sales. N. W. Ayer noted also that its campaign had required "the conception of a new form of advertising which has been widely imitated ever since. There was no direct sale to be made. There was no brand name to be impressed on the public mind. There was simply an idea -- the eternal emotional value surrounding the diamond." It further claimed that "a new type of art was devised ... and a new color, diamond blue, was created and used in these campaigns.... "
In its 1947 strategy plan, the advertising agency strongly emphasized a psychological approach. "We are dealing with a problem in mass psychology. We seek to ... strengthen the tradition of the diamond engagement ring -- to make it a psychological necessity capable of competing successfully at the retail level with utility goods and services...." It defined as its target audience "some 70 million people 15 years and over whose opinion we hope to influence in support of our objectives." N. W. Ayer outlined a subtle program that included arranging for lecturers to visit high schools across the country. "All of these lectures revolve around the diamond engagement ring, and are reaching thousands of girls in their assemblies, classes and informal meetings in our leading educational institutions," the agency explained in a memorandum to De Beers. The agency had organized, in 1946, a weekly service called "Hollywood Personalities," which provided 125 leading newspapers with descriptions of the diamonds worn by movie stars. And it continued its efforts to encourage news coverage of celebrities displaying diamond rings as symbols of romantic involvement. In 1947, the agency commissioned a series of portraits of "engaged socialites." The idea was to create prestigious "role models" for the poorer middle-class wage-earners. The advertising agency explained, in its 1948 strategy paper, "We spread the word of diamonds worn by stars of screen and stage, by wives and daughters of political leaders, by any woman who can make the grocer's wife and the mechanic's sweetheart say 'I wish I had what she has.'"
De Beers needed a slogan for diamonds that expressed both the theme of romance and legitimacy. An N. W. Ayer copywriter came up with the caption "A Diamond Is Forever," which was scrawled on the bottom of a picture of two young lovers on a honeymoon. Even though diamonds can in fact be shattered, chipped, discolored, or incinerated to ash, the concept of eternity perfectly captured the magical qualities that the advertising agency wanted to attribute to diamonds. Within a year, "A Diamond Is Forever" became the official motto of De Beers.
In 1951, N. W. Ayer found some resistance to its million-dollar publicity blitz. It noted in its annual strategy review:
The millions of brides and brides-to-be are subjected to at least two important pressures that work against the diamond engagement ring. Among the more prosperous, there is the sophisticated urge to be different as a means of being smart.... the lower-income groups would like to show more for the money than they can find in the diamond they can afford...
To remedy these problems, the advertising agency argued, "It is essential that these pressures be met by the constant publicity to show that only the diamond is everywhere accepted and recognized as the symbol of betrothal."
N. W. Ayer was always searching for new ways to influence American public opinion. Not only did it organize a service to "release to the women's pages the engagement ring" but it set about exploiting the relatively new medium of television by arranging for actresses and other celebrities to wear diamonds when they appeared before the camera. It also established a "Diamond Information Center" that placed a stamp of quasi-authority on the flood of "historical" data and "news" it released. "We work hard to keep ourselves known throughout the publishing world as the source of information on diamonds," N. W. Ayer commented in a memorandum to De Beers, and added: "Because we have done it successfully, we have opportunities to help with articles originated by others."
N. W. Ayer proposed to apply to the diamond market Thorstein Veblen's idea, stated in The Theory of the Leisure Class, that Americans were motivated in their purchases not by utility but by "conspicuous consumption." "The substantial diamond gift can be made a more widely sought symbol of personal and family success -- an expression of socio-economic achievement," N. W. Ayer said in a report. To exploit this desire for conspicuous display, the agency specifically recommended, "Promote the diamond as one material object which can reflect, in a very personal way, a man's ... success in life." Since this campaign would be addressed to upwardly mobile men, the advertisements ideally "should have the aroma of tweed, old leather and polished wood which is characteristic of a good club."
Toward the end of the 1950s, N. W. Ayer reported to De Beers that twenty years of advertisements and publicity had had a pronounced effect on the American psyche. "Since 1939 an entirely new generation of young people has grown to marriageable age," it said. "To this new generation a diamond ring is considered a necessity to engagements by virtually everyone." The message had been so successfully impressed on the minds of this generation that those who could not afford to buy a diamond at the time of their marriage would "defer the purchase" rather than forgo it.
The campaign to internationalize the diamond invention began in earnest in the mid-1960s. The prime targets were Japan, Germany, and Brazil. Since N. W. Ayer was primarily an American advertising agency, De Beers brought in the J. Walter Thompson agency, which had especially strong advertising subsidiaries in the target countries, to place most of its international advertising. Within ten years, De Beers succeeded beyond even its most optimistic expectations, creating a billion-dollar-a-year diamond market in Japan, where matrimonial custom had survived feudal revolutions, world wars, industrialization, and even the American occupation.
Until the mid-1960s, Japanese parents arranged marriages for their children through trusted intermediaries. The ceremony was consummated, according to Shinto law, by the bride and groom drinking rice wine from the same wooden bowl. There was no tradition of romance, courtship, seduction, or prenuptial love in Japan; and none that required the gift of a diamond engagement ring. Even the fact that millions of American soldiers had been assigned to military duty in Japan for a decade had not created any substantial Japanese interest in giving diamonds as a token of love.
J. Walter Thompson began its campaign by suggesting that diamonds were a visible sign of modern Western values. It created a series of color advertisements in Japanese magazines showing beautiful women displaying their diamond rings. All the women had Western facial features and wore European clothes. Moreover, the women in most of the advertisements were involved in some activity -- such as bicycling, camping, yachting, ocean swimming, or mountain climbing -- that defied Japanese traditions. In the background, there usually stood a Japanese man, also attired in fashionable European clothes. In addition, almost all of the automobiles, sporting equipment, and other artifacts in the picture were conspicuous foreign imports. The message was clear: diamonds represent a sharp break with the Oriental past and a sign of entry into modern life.
The campaign was remarkably successful. Until1959, the importation of diamonds had not even been permitted by the postwar Japanese government. When the campaign began, in 1967, not quite 5 percent of engaged Japanese women received a diamond engagement ring. By 1972, the proportion had risen to 27 percent. By 1978, half of all Japanese women who were married wore a diamond; by 1981, some 60 percent of Japanese brides wore diamonds. In a mere fourteen years, the 1,500-year Japanese tradition had been radically revised. Diamonds became a staple of the Japanese marriage. Japan became the second largest market, after the United States, for the sale of diamond engagement rings.
In America, which remained the most important market for most of De Beer's diamonds, N. W. Ayer recognized the need to create a new demand for diamonds among long-married couples. "Candies come, flowers come, furs come," but such ephemeral gifts fail to satisfy a woman's psychological craving for "a renewal of the romance," N. W. Ayer said in a report. An advertising campaign could instill the idea that the gift of a second diamond, in the later years of marriage, would be accepted as a sign of "ever-growing love." In 1962, N. W. Ayer asked for authorization to "begin the long-term process of setting the diamond aside as the only appropriate gift for those later-in-life occasions where sentiment is to be expressed." De Beers immediately approved the campaign.
The diamond market had to be further restructured in the mid-1960s to accomodate a surfeit of minute diamonds, which De Beers undertook to market for the Soviets. They had discovered diamond mines in Siberia, after intensive exploration, in the late 1950s: De Beers and its allies no longer controlled the diamond supply, and realized that open competition with the Soviets would inevitably lead, as Harry Oppenheimer gingerly put it, to "price fluctuations,"which would weaken the carefully cultivated confidence of the public in the value of diamonds. Oppenheimer, assuming that neither party could afford risking the destruction of the diamond invention, offered the Soviets a straightforward deal—"a single channel" for controlling the world supply of diamonds. In accepting this arrangement, the Soviets became partners in the cartel, and co-protectors of the diamond invention.
Almost all of the Soviet diamonds were under half a carat in their uncut form, and there was no ready retail outlet for millions of such tiny diamonds. When it made its secret deal with the Soviet Union, De Beers had expected production from the Siberian mines to decrease gradually. Instead, production accelerated at an incredible pace, and De Beers was forced to reconsider its sales strategy. De Beers ordered N. W. Ayer to reverse one of its themes: women were no longer to be led to equate the status and emotional commitment to an engagement with the sheer size of the diamond. A "strategy for small diamond sales" was outlined, stressing the "importance of quality, color and cut" over size. Pictures of "one quarter carat" rings would replace pictures of "up to 2 carat" rings. Moreover, the advertising agency began in its international campaign to "illustrate gems as small as one-tenth of a carat and give them the same emotional importance as larger stones." The news releases also made clear that women should think of diamonds, regardless of size, as objects of perfection: a small diamond could be as perfect as a large diamond.
DeBeers devised the "eternity ring," made up of as many as twenty-five tiny Soviet diamonds, which could be sold to an entirely new market of older married women. The advertising campaign was based on the theme of recaptured love. Again, sentiments were born out of necessity: older American women received a ring of miniature diamonds because of the needs of a South African corporation to accommodate the Soviet Union.
The new campaign met with considerable success. The average size of diamonds sold fell from one carat in 1939 to .28 of a carat in 1976, which coincided almost exactly with the average size of the Siberian diamonds De Beers was distributing. However, as American consumers became accustomed to the idea of buying smaller diamonds, they began to perceive larger diamonds as ostentatious. By the mid-1970s, the advertising campaign for smaller diamonds was beginning to seem too successful. In its 1978 strategy report, N. W. Ayer said, "a supply problem has developed ... that has had a significant effect on diamond pricing"—a problem caused by the long-term campaign to stimulate the sale of small diamonds. "Owing to successful pricing, distribution and advertising policies over the last 16 years, demand for small diamonds now appears to have significantly exceeded supply even though supply, in absolute terms, has been increasing steadily." Whereas there was not a sufficient supply of small diamonds to meet the demands of consumers, N. W. Ayer reported that "large stone sales (1 carat and up) ... have maintained the sluggish pace of the last three years." Because of this, the memorandum continued, "large stones are being .. discounted by as much as 20%."
The shortage of small diamonds proved temporary. As Soviet diamonds continued to flow into London at an ever-increasing rate, De Beers's strategists came to the conclusion that this production could not be entirely absorbed by "eternity rings" or other new concepts in jewelry, and began looking for markets for miniature diamonds outside the United States. Even though De Beers had met with enormous success in creating an instant diamond "tradition" in Japan, it was unable to create a similar tradition in Brazil, Germany, Austria, or Italy. By paying the high cost involved in absorbing this flood of Soviet diamonds each year, De Beers prevented — at least temporarily — the Soviet Union from taking any precipitous actions that might cause diamonds to start glutting the market. N. W. Ayer argued that "small stone jewelry advertising" could not be totally abandoned: "Serious trade relationship problems would ensue if, after fifteen years of stressing 'affordable' small stone jewelry, we were to drop all of these programs."
Instead, the agency suggested a change in emphasis in presenting diamonds to the American public. In the advertisements to appear in 1978, it planned to substitute photographs of one-carat-and-over stones for photographs of smaller diamonds, and to resume both an "informative advertising campaign" and an "emotive program" that would serve to "reorient consumer tastes and price perspectives towards acceptance of solitaire [single-stone] jewelry rather than multi-stone pieces." Other "strategic refinements" it recommended were designed to restore the status of the large diamond. "In fact, this [campaign] will be the exact opposite of the small stone informative program that ran from 1965 to 1970 that popularized the 'beauty in miniature' concept...." With an advertising budget of some $9.69 million, N. W. Ayer appeared confident that it could bring about this "reorientation."
N. W. Ayer learned from an opinion poll it commissioned from the firm of Daniel Yankelovich, Inc. that the gift of a diamond contained an important element of surprise. "Approximately half of all diamond jewelry that the men have given and the women have received were given with zero participation or knowledge on the part of the woman recipient," the study pointed out. N. W Ayer analyzed this "surprise factor":
Women are in unanimous agreement that they want to be surprised with gifts.... They want, of course, to be surprised for the thrill of it. However, a deeper, more important reason lies behind this desire.... "freedom from guilt." Some of the women pointed out that if their husbands enlisted their help in purchasing a gift (like diamond jewelry), their practical nature would come to the fore and they would be compelled to object to the purchase.
Women were not totally surprised by diamond gifts: some 84 percent of the men in the study "knew somehow" that the women wanted diamond jewelry. The study suggested a two-step "gift-process continuum": first, "the man 'learns' diamonds are o.k." fom the woman; then, "at some later point in time, he makes the diamond purchase decision" to surprise the woman.
Through a series of "projective" psychological questions, meant "to draw out a respondent's innermost feelings about diamond jewelry," the study attempted to examine further the semi-passive role played by women in receiving diamonds. The male-female roles seemed to resemble closely the sex relations in a Victorian novel. "Man plays the dominant, active role in the gift process. Woman's role is more subtle, more oblique, more enigmatic...." The woman seemed to believe there was something improper about receiving a diamond gift. Women spoke in interviews about large diamonds as "flashy, gaudy, overdone" and otherwise inappropriate. Yet the study found that "Buried in the negative attitudes ... lies what is probably the primary driving force for acquiring them. Diamonds are a traditional and conspicuous signal of achievement, status and success." It noted, for example, "A woman can easily feel that diamonds are 'vulgar' and still be highly enthusiastic about receiving diamond jewelry." The element of surprise, even if it is feigned, plays the same role of accommodating dissonance in accepting a diamond gift as it does in prime sexual seductions: it permits the woman to pretend that she has not actively participated in the decision. She thus retains both her innocence—and the diamond.
For advertising diamonds in the late 1970s, the implications of this research were clear. To induce men to buy diamonds for women, advertising should focus on the emotional impact of the "surprise" gift transaction. In the final analysis, a man was moved to part with earnings not by the value, aesthetics, or tradition of diamonds but by the expectation that a "gift of love" would enhance his standing in the eyes of a woman. On the other hand, a woman accepted the gift as a tangible symbol of her status and achievements.
By 1979, N. W. Ayer had helped De Beers expand its sales of diamonds in the United States to more than $2.1 billion, at the wholesale level, compared with a mere $23 million in 1939. In forty years, the value of its sales had increased nearly a hundredfold. The expenditure on advertisements, which began at a level of only $200,000 a year and gradually increased to $10 million, seemed a brilliant investment.
Except for those few stones that have been destroyed, every diamond that has been found and cut into a jewel still exists today and is literally in the public's hands. Some hundred million women wear diamonds, while millions of others keep them in safe-deposit boxes or strongboxes as family heirlooms. It is conservatively estimated that the public holds more than 500 million carats of gem diamonds, which is more than fifty times the number of gem diamonds produced by the diamond cartel in any given year. Since the quantity of diamonds needed for engagement rings and other jewelry each year is satisfied by the production from the world's mines, this half-billion-carat supply of diamonds must be prevented from ever being put on the market. The moment a significant portion of the public begins selling diamonds from this inventory, the price of diamonds cannot be sustained. For the diamond invention to survive, the public must be inhibited from ever parting with its diamonds.


Read the rest here: https://www.theatlantic.com/doc/198202/diamond
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Old 11-11-09, 10:48 PM
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^^ Wow for a moment I thought CarpeDiemRacing had a lot to say about diamonds.
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Old 11-11-09, 10:57 PM
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Sorry, that article is way to f**king long.
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