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Chris or Phil...
Recently I said to myself, I said: "Self, which bike brings you the most pleasure and best suits your daily needs?" Myself replied: "Duh!...the Crosscheck you idjit!" Hmmmm, can't argue...great fit, comfortable, multi-tasker.
I asked myself this because I have some money burning a hole in my pocket and I would like to purchase a top-tier wheelset for the bike I use the most. Now the debate...Chris King or Phil Wood wheelset? :twitchy: This bicycle will see lots of 30-40 mile "C" weekend rides and even the occasional supported group tour. Most of my miles, however, are around town just smelling the roses as I ride. No real reason for great wheels, but something I'd like to do to keep me happy. Opinions? Aaron http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g6...crosscheck.jpg |
Originally Posted by gldnedge
(Post 10087344)
Opinions?
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Originally Posted by njkayaker
(Post 10087388)
An inefficient use of money. The hubs won't be any more efficient. Lighter wheels might be beneficial if you where riding at higher speeds. I'd suggest using the money for something that will enable you to do something different. Or, just pick the one that is simply more expensive.
Looking primarily for Phil vs. Chris differences (if there are any) and possibly some experiences & opinions. Thanks! Aaron |
Originally Posted by gldnedge
(Post 10087420)
Maybe I should have added to the top post that I have a perfectly wonderful set of Easton EA90 SL's....but that's not the wheel for the kind of riding I do on this bike?
Looking primarily for Phil vs. Chris differences (if there are any) and possibly some experiences & opinions. Thanks! Aaron |
Originally Posted by gldnedge
(Post 10087420)
Looking primarily for Phil vs. Chris differences (if there are any) and possibly some experiences & opinions.
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Chris Kings are loud as hell.
BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ is all you'll hear when you coast. That said, all that Phil Wood will do is get the ire of hipsters who turn up their nose and talk about how 'some people' should stop trying to make a geared bike as cool as their fixies. |
Do yourself a favor, get some Ultegra / DTSwiss 1.1 wheels and use the rest to get a Phil Wood bottom bracket and Thomson stem/seatpost. Now THAT would be money better spent.
Or, alternatively, you could ride the relatively theft-free bike you have and put the money into your 401k. The best money is unspent. |
did I just see someone recommend a chris king headset?
I did! I did see someone recommend a chris king headset! I'd recommend shimano or DT swiss hubs over chris king or phil wood, but if I really had to choose between the two, it'd be phil wood hubs. |
Battleship for bass fishing....I see the error of my ways. LOL
I was having "ultimate" thoughts when I posted the thread, and I have certainly reconsidered after reading the responses above. Thanks everyone for the open, honest replies. Ultegra was mentioned at least 3 times....why not Dura-Ace? Same thing only cheaper? There had to be a reason for the Ultegra love. I have a King headset on this bike....King bottom bracket seems like a good idea. I won't mess with the basic build, tho, as it all works so well together as it sits. The Tiagra/Alex wheelset is the only real hang-up I have. Aaron |
Originally Posted by gldnedge
(Post 10090746)
Ultegra was mentioned at least 3 times....why not Dura-Ace? Same thing only cheaper? There had to be a reason for the Ultegra love.
Originally Posted by gldnedge
(Post 10090746)
The Tiagra/Alex wheelset is the only real hang-up I have.
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concerning ultegra hubs (and all shimano hubs I believe)... aren't they loose ball bearing hubs? Correct me if I'm wrong here but aren't loose bearing hubs generally not so good if you ride in the rain or damp environments that cause corrosion to the bearings as opposed to sealed bearing hubs?
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I agree with the above posters on the Ultegra hubs. I had a wheel that I bought with a King hub and couldn't take the noise. I switched to a set of Mavic open pros with Ultegra hubs and was much, much happier. Still just as smooth as the King hubs, but almost silent in operation. Plus the wheelset alone cost me less than what the one King hub cost. I'd take the rest of the money and put it into something else.
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Since this is BF, I'll post my opinion that is completly unrealted to your actual question. Your bike looks too big (judging by the minimal seatpost and stem lengths). Getting a bike that can fit a more aggressive/aero position would help way more than any set of wheels. Could get a new cross check frameset for the amount you are probably thinking of spending on wheels.
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Originally Posted by n8tron
(Post 10090928)
concerning ultegra hubs (and all shimano hubs I believe)... aren't they loose ball bearing hubs? Correct me if I'm wrong here but aren't loose bearing hubs generally not so good if you ride in the rain or damp environments that cause corrosion to the bearings as opposed to sealed bearing hubs?
It all depends on how you want to maintain your bike. sealed bearings, you use a C-clamp press to push out the old bearings and install new ones. will wear out faster since there are generally fewer balls in the cartridges sometimes requires special press to get cartridges out. if the races get pitted, you can just replace the cartridges. the hub still does wear out eventually if cartridges are replaced often enough. loose ball bearings, you just replace the balls, and hopefully a regular maintenance schedule kept your races pitting free. can use any grease you like in the bearings easier to replace grease if it gets contaminated lasts longer as the ball bearings are usually larger and numerous can get pitted races, at which point the hubs are toast. the seals on 105 and above hubs are very good. You need a pressure washer to get behind those seals. |
Originally Posted by AEO
(Post 10091125)
no, the 'sealed' bearings can be contaminated just as easily as the cup and cone loose bearings of the shimano.
It all depends on how you want to maintain your bike. sealed bearings, you use a C-clamp press to push out the old bearings and install new ones. will wear out faster since there are generally fewer balls in the cartridges sometimes requires special press to get cartridges out. if the races get pitted, you can just replace the cartridges. the hub still does wear out eventually if cartridges are replaced often enough. Even hubs that can't be disassembled as easily, take a very loooong time to wear out. I've had several cassette bearing hubs and only ever had to replace 1 bearing.
Originally Posted by AEO
(Post 10091125)
loose ball bearings, you just replace the balls, and hopefully a regular maintenance schedule kept your races pitting free.
can use any grease you like in the bearings easier to replace grease if it gets contaminated lasts longer as the ball bearings are usually larger and numerous can get pitted races, at which point the hubs are toast. the seals on 105 and above hubs are very good. You need a pressure washer to get behind those seals. I have two sets of Phils. I'd like a couple more of them:thumb: |
I have both. I love both.
I put Phil's on my 404 hoops because I wasn't so concerned with weight. I put CK's on my 28 spoke Open Pros because I wanted light weight but durable wheels. Both spin awesome, both are top tier shtuff. If forced to vote, I'd vote CK. Only because you can get more colors! |
can i ask you what handlebars you have on your bike?
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Phil all the way.. I still use a Phil front hub on my current bike.. It is going on 15+ years, never serviced and spins as free as the day it was built..
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Originally Posted by brron
(Post 10091870)
can i ask you what handlebars you have on your bike?
Tried several, these felt the best. |
Originally Posted by Quel
(Post 10090995)
Since this is BF, I'll post my opinion that is completly unrealted to your actual question. Your bike looks too big (judging by the minimal seatpost and stem lengths). Getting a bike that can fit a more aggressive/aero position would help way more than any set of wheels. Could get a new cross check frameset for the amount you are probably thinking of spending on wheels.
I was going for pure comfort when I purchased this frameset. Consider this CC as a "general purpose" bicycle, bordering on mini-touring bike. It's commonplace to fit to the next-larger frame size in the name of comfort. Some say that a "fist full of seatpost" makes the perfect fit, but only on a bicycle with this style geometry. The stem.....I swap between this short one and a 100mm based on the type of ride I'm doing. Right now I'm prepared for the slower season, so I like to sit a bit more upright. I'm very pleased with the fit of this bicycle.....it's totally my favorite. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 10091479)
All true but then you'd just be riding on the same hubs as the rest of the world.
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Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
(Post 10092810)
They're tools not jewels. Tons of car mechanics use Craftsman tools and not the overpriced, Snap-On bling that performs the same function.
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Fancy hubs are pointless especially on that steel tank. Get Tiagra hubs or whatever's on sale.
BTW, your bike is too big. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 10091479)
the Field Serviceable hubs from Phil Wood require two 5mm allen wrenches to completely disassemble. You don't even have to take the cassette off the rear hub to accomplish this. This is a particularly nice feature for a touring hub or if you have to replace a spoke. Bearings are easily slipped back into place.
Love my Phils. I even have an original circa 1978 pair that still roll along just fine. But, again, the modern field serviceable cassette is the ultimate touring hub IMO. I'm a lightweight so just appreciate the ease of cleaning and service, but anyone who breaks spokes should consider these hubs for touring above all else. |
Originally Posted by operator
(Post 10092815)
Yeah the bad ones.
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