saddle height - same on all bikes?
 

I have four different road bikes that all have slightly different geometry. I picked up a new one recently and am still getting used to it, making minor adjustments here and there.

Do you use the same saddle height (assuming/adjusting for crank length) on all of your bikes?

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I know frame geometry and saddle height have changed a bit over the years and different things feel better for different people. All of mine are within 2-3 cms, I'm just wondering if you measure out your seat height exactly the same on all your road bikes or if you adjust them and ride what feels the best.

And it used to be/still is the general starting point to put your heel on the pedal. Now people seem to like a little more bend in their knees when the crank is at 6 o'clock. I've check charts as well, and I'm in the suggested range.

yes. ymmv.

I do.

ditto. Pedal to saddle top is consistent.

cdr

Okay. To get saddle top...are you putting a level on there, or just something flat/straight?

And, are you using the same height because it feels the best for your legs/body? You like the consistency? Or you think this is the best in terms of having the same output/performance on all of your bikes?

And, thanks for the replies!

If you want an identical riding setup, when setting up your saddle also consider how far it sits behind the Bottom Bracket. Depending on the seat tube angle you might have to slide the saddle forward or backwards on the rail. Both the saddle height measurement and how far it sits behind the Bottom Bracket measurement goes hand in hand. One changes when the other does.

I usually measure it up to where my sit bones will rest. The exact spot will differ from one saddle model to another. After riding a while I know generally where that is. Ideally you want all your bikes sporting the same saddle.... that is if you know that's the right one for you.

I like the consistency. And I notice that my knees will complain if the saddle's too low, particularly on the fixed gear.

Yes, but note that the saddle heights may visually be higher or lower. Bottom bracket height differs.

Any time I build a new bike I always use my "extra" to set the saddle height. Sometimes I have to fine tune but that's a good the starting point.

Just to be sure, pedal at the bottom of the stroke with the cranks in line with the seatpost?

And yes, I have all my saddles at the same height.

I think that the same saddle height is a good place to start. From there I will adjust it to what feels right to me along with doing a self bike fit.

That's how I do it. If you measure this way, I believe it will take into account any differences in frame geometry and/or crank length. (assuming same amount of setback - obviously if one post has vastly different setback this rule may not apply)

Come to think of it, I measure to where I think my butt rests on the saddle... because I do have a lot of setback.

take a string and measure from where your sitz bones will be to the furthest point the pedal reaches (just move the pedal around to find the longest the string needs to be. Note: this will not be at 6 o'clock unless your saddle is directly above your bottom bracket, nor will this necessarily be in line with the seatpost because the saddle rails can be placed anywhere on the seatpost clamps.). This distance should be approx. the same for all your bikes.

I used this method to cut my seatpost for my TT bike, and got it right with the first cut. *phew*

I keep the height the same else things hurt - knees usually. My knees are extremely fragile/sensitive.

I measure to the indent in the saddle from me sitting in it. I measure to the BB axle because I know the BB spindle doesn't move but the cranks do. When I made a pedal switch I carefully measured the difference in pedals.

When I move the saddle forward/backwards I'll keep the height constant. The fore/aft I fiddle with based on upcoming races, fitness level, and overall plans in next month or three. I adjust height when I adjust fore/aft. I do this maybe 2-3x a year. I probably won't touch my saddle until after Bethel, when I go from 175s to 170s. I'll change again in the fall (when I go to 175s again). And maybe once somewhere in there.

cdr

i agree that pedal to saddle height should remain the same. but one must take into consideration seat tube angle, and offset of seatpost, as well as saddle position on the saddle clamps.

Agreed. All of that is taken care of by measuring from where you sit, as per kuf's post.

So this is a question that may or may not have supported evidence: Is it better to lower the saddle height for longer cranks or is it better to keep the center of the pedaling circumference (BB) at the same distance? In other words, is overall extension important or is the center of your legs' movement more important?

Agreed. My bikes all have slightly different bar reach and drop but as long as the saddle to BB distance is the same it's just a matter of how deep or laid out my upper body feels.

That's a tough one. I'd say it's more important not to over-extend your knees, just as you don't want to feel cramped, though I doubt any of us in this thread run the risk of pulling what the girls on campus do with the seat all the way down. But it might be better to sort of split the difference and cheat the saddle down a mm or 2 if you're going from 170 cranks to 175, say.

I meticulously measure every bit of geometry on my setup, and I have to say, it never matters just as soon as I switch something out. Change the handlebars, the pedals, the crank--unless the geometry is identical, it never feels the same, and I end up adjusting it away from my measurements. The seat tube angle, for instance, wouldn't change the seat tube length from crank to saddle, but it changes the angle your hips make with the saddle, which changes how your legs move and how far the reach feels to the pedals. Lowering the handlebars does something similar...

I tried all three theories. Keep saddle same, drop 1/2 delta, drop full delta (going from 170 to 175s). I found my knees hurt right away on same and on 1/2 delta. "Right away" meant within maybe 30 minutes of riding. Like it hurt at 5 min but I figured it was something else, just me getting the creaks out of the way.

So, saddle height is constant to pedal. This is regardless of crank length, frame geometry, etc. When I measure it doesn't change for anything.

I'd prefer to drop my bars 5 mm when I go to 175s but I can't (stem is bottomed out). So the bars go up relatively speaking. On 170s it feels much nicer. I go a bit forward saddlewise on 170s (vs 175s). I don't try but it probably keeps the saddle/bar distance similar.

cdr

^That is pretty interesting - same saddle height regardless of crank arm length.

I'm trying to get my two main road bikes set up similarly; one has 170's one has 172.5's. I think the saddle height is very close on them and I feel good pedaling both. I'm trying to get the reach and drop set up just right on them. Oh, and one has a saddle that has always been okay, but not great. I'm switching it out finally.

Lots of good info and advice in here! Thanks for all the replies! Fun to dig up and older thread and learn something new.

The following are the same across all my bikes:
- Pedals
- Crankarm length
- Saddle
- Distance from center of BB spindle to top of saddle, along the seattube
- Distance from saddle nose to center of BB spindle, measured by hanging a plum bob from the nose of the saddle and measuring horizontally to the BB spindle

Handlebar reach/height varies, as do the handlebars.