Fleabiscuit

I know this wasn't addressed to me but I'll give you my $.10 anyway. You have decent tires on that bike as is. I'd keep them and get new ones when you wear these out. I just starting cycling last year and made myself a deal, no new parts unless it's to replace a worn-out or broken old part or for comfort. A new saddle is different, it's a necessity and needed for proper comfort. This is a personal choice and I would suggest going to a shop where you can try different saddles on the bike before purchasing or a place with a trial policy. Pads are also important for safety reasons but I'd suggest riding yours and breaking them in a bit. Sometimes new rims have some grease on them or something that makes them less tacky. If your brakes don't work well after a hundred miles or so, get a pair of Koolstop pads. They work well and are easy to install.

Tires and pads are low on the list of priorities. You would be better off spending your money on necessities like a good pair of cycling shoes, some clipless pedals, cycling shorts (or bibs) and water bottle cages. I really like the Ultra bibs at Peroformance (on sale for $59 the last time I was there). The padding is very solid and they are well made. Also, get some chamois cream, some decent socks and helmet (if you don't have one). Lastly, a cycling computer (cheap cateye wireless is recommended) is handy along with a couple extra inner tubes and pump and some chain lube.

I wouldn't shell out any $$$ on the bike until you get all of the necessities. Once you have them covered, you might want to replace things as they break or as they affect comfort or safety. Get some brightly colored clothes, flashing lights, etc., because cars in the chicago area (where I live) are brutal as you will find out. I love cycling but close calls with cars are my least favorite part!

Cheers,

FB

sixate

I'm using Jagwire Sleek Pro Road Light pads, and they were a huge upgrade over the stock pads. Kool Stop or SwissStop pads would also be a good choice. Give the tires a chance and see how well they hold up for you. You may have better luck than me.

Darkstars

I already have a decent amount of stuff, I've been mountain biking for a while, just new to road biking. I got some new stuff today though for the bike.

Forte T1 saddle, I really like the gel layered saddle. I'd rather put the gel on the seat then in a pair of shorts.



I also picked up a gel fitted cover for the Forte seats for on the longer rides. It was $11, I figured it's worth a shot.

And I got 2 sets of Planet Bike Spok lights (I'm not OCD or anything but I like symmetry, things look better balanced then lop-sided)

Darkstars

Oh one other thing I was gonna ask about. On the Trek it has the lizzard Skin frame protector for chain slap, I learned the hard way on my Gary Fisher that those things are well worth the few dollars they cost. Is that an issue on road bikes or should I not waste the time and money?

Fleabiscuit

Hey, sorry for recommending things you already own. I didn't know you already had some stuff.

Regarding the saddle, if it's comfortable, more power to you. I'm not a fan of those gel saddles or pads. They can be a bit "grabby" on your pants and do not feel comfortable on long rides (they can rub against the your legs and chafe you big-time). For short commutes, it's no big deal but if you plan to ride longer distances, you might be more comfortable in padded cycling shorts and a firm, well fitting saddle. The only saddle I've tried that was comfortable for long distances without wearing padded bike shorts is a Brooks style. They are ugly (IMO) and heavy but they have a cult following and are comfortable for long distances without wearing padded shorts. Those gel seats and covers seem like a good idea on paper but when you sit on them, it compresses that gel into areas that can restrict blood flow and cause discomfort. I picked up a Fizik Arione on sale for a great price but would not recommend buying a saddle without testint it for proper fit first. Check out Sheldon Brown's saddle advice (particularly on soft saddles). His site is also great for advice on cycling in general:

https://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html


I am also new to road cycling and continue to learn about this sport from this site and, more often, from the experienced riders in my group. Riding with a group of more experienced cyclists (and faster riders!) has made me work hard to improve my fitness level, speed and safety. If you just want to putz around town, none of this stuff matters. You can get away with a poor fit, gel saddle, MTB shorts, clipless pedals, etc., but if you want to try some longer rides (3 or 4 hours on the bike), comfort on the bike is key. This means a good bike fit, decent saddle and padded shorts (at least in my experience). My main group rides through the country roads of the Western suburbs of Chicago. If you are in the area and would like to join for a ride, shoot me a PM.

Good luck!

Darkstars

I don't know if you read all the details through out the thread but I'm not planning on doing 3-4 hour rides. 14 miles each way to work when it's nice out and maybe once a week or so as cross training while training for my marathon. Any time I have a chance to kill a few hours on a bike it'll be taking my mountain bike out to some trails. I apreciate the advise though, don't think I'm blowing it off, I'm willing to read and learn weather it applies to me specifically or not.

One specific thing I would like advice on though is an afordable basic wireless bike computer. I dont need anything crazy, small, reliable, easy to use with trip and odometer along with speed, preferably black

Fleabiscuit

Nope, sorry I didn't read any of your earlier posts, just the stuff about choosing between two bikes. For someone who is only interested in riding short distances you have a pretty fancy bike. If I had known this was your intention, I would have suggested not wasting your money on that Fuji and just get a $300 bike from Bikesdirect or Randall Scott. The Fuji is nice but you would probably be just as happy on a Walmart bike if you are only riding short distances one day a week. It's your money and the bike you chose is very nice looking. You made a good fashionable choice but I'm not sure you will notice the difference between your bike and a $300 BD special. Plus, a 30 lb. bike will give you a better workout over 12 miles than the lightweight model you chose.

I guess the only advantage is that if you decide to take longer rides, you have a very nice bike and will not have to upgrade later.

Ride safe,

FB

lambo_vt

No, it'll just be a slower 12 miles.

Fleabiscuit

I would imagine the same 12 mile ride on a 30 lb Wal Mart bike would burn a few more calories and give you a slightly better workout versus the same distance on a svelte 18 pound (ish) lightweight beauty. No?

You are right about one thing, it would most likely be slower. I'm sure the extra 2 minutes this guy will save over that distance will be put to good use! On the other hand, maybe not. He could probably park the inexpensive bike on a standard bikerack outside a building, whereas that Fuji will need to be parked somewhere more secure because it screams "steal me". Maybe the big gel seat-pad will help ward off some would-be theives!

midgetmaestro 

Cateye Strada Wireless is the best bang for your buck in my opinion - I've never replaced the batteries in 2+ years of owning it (and using it practically everyday). I think you can get it on Amazon for as little as like $39

midgetmaestro 

Dude.... even if this guy just wanted to ride a block around the neighborhood, he'll have more fun on this bike. I guarantee that if he's having fun, his mileage will get extended.

lambo_vt

No. If you're pushing 100% you're getting the same workout on a 50 lb bike you would on a 10 lb bike, but the 10 lb bike will be going faster. You'll output the same amount of power into either bike.

midgetmaestro 

+1

thegunner

+1... seriously, are you really gonna harp on a guy for getting 'too much bike' for the neighborhood? i mean we have some middle aged guys getting zipp 404/808's for non racing, isn't that more unreasonable?

same amount of power, but power is joules/second. if you're getting there faster, that's less work. just sayin'. not the same workout at all.

Fleabiscuit

You are wrong. It takes more energy to push a 30lb bike 12 miles than it does a lighter, say 18lb bike. Imagine you have a car, let's say it's a Toyota Prius and you take a 14 mile trip to the store. At the store, you buy 300lbs of dog food because it's your dog's birthday and he's having some friends over. You burn more gas coming home from the store than you do on the way. Right? Give it a bit of thought.

Anyway, for the other guy with the Zipp comment. I agree with you but would like to add the following. If one of those middle aged guys posted a thread asking if he should buy Zipp 404 or 808's for his 14 mile commute to work, one day per week, I would have a similar comment. I've said the same thing to friends who have exotic cars and drive them like old ladies.

Lots of us buy expensive gear that is way nicer than we need for our weekend warrior riding habits. I ride with several guys who have very expensive custom titanium and CF bikes, Zipp or other CF wheels, etc., and they never race. The difference between these guys and the OP is they RIDE a lot. I look at their expensive gear as "inspiration" to get better or train a little harder. None of these guys (at least the ones I know) bought the expensive gear with the intention of only training one day a week for less than 30 miles. Unfortunately their intentions are not always in line with their actions.

I'm not totally disagreeing with you gunner but I think there is a difference between a middle aged guy with 404's who wants to log some miles and a guy who wants to cycle to work one day per week. The OP might be better off with a commuter or hybrid bike, or something more upright and comfortable. This is a forum where people are asked to give opinions. IMO, if this guy's description of his intended application for the bike is accurate, he should just get a 30 lb beast from BD or Walmart.

lambo_vt

Nope. If your 100% effort is 250W, then going at 100% puts out 250W whether your bike weighs two pounds or a million. Speed will be wildly different, but the intensity of your workout is up to you to provide 100%. Think time, not distance.

Feel free to play around with Analytic Cycling (specifically Speed given Power and Power given Speed) and verify for your own edification.

Fleabiscuit

I stand corrected! Must've missed the part where the OP said he was planning to ride in a wind-tunnel or laboratory setting. On paper, you might be correct but your assumption of 100% effort is where our opinions diverge. Commuting to work, in a city like Chicago at least, usually involves lots of stop and go driving, even on a bike. A heavy bike will be slower than a lighter bike (assuming all other factors are constant, wind, incline, rolling resistance of tires, etc.) at the 250 constant watt output but that's not where we disagree. I'm saying a guy on a heavy bike will have to push more watts to maintain a desired speed (assuming he wants to complete his commute in a reasonable time) and get a better workout over a 12 mile ride. Kind've like the car example. I guess the driver in my example could drive at a slower, more efficient speed and expend the same amount of energy (or gas consumption in my example) while carrying a heavier load, or as you put it, extend the time required to travel the same distance, while expending the same amt. of energy. It's just not realistic to expect this to happen in the real world.

Either way, we've wasted enough time discussing a bike that will see less miles than my 4 year old's big-wheel. I've got a work project to complete and I'm going for a quick 30 mile ride (at max exertion as long as possible) because it's 60F and sunny in Chicago today. After giving this poor guy a hard time for buying a bike that was too "good" for his intended purpose, I am reminded of the fact that I've got 9 guitars (including a Gibson Les Paul and Martin D28 acoustic) that spend 99.9% of the time in their respective cases. Being a hypocrite is no fun!

Cheers,

FB

lambo_vt

If you say so. People exercising do it all the time "in the real world." This is why 10 miles on the spin bike at the gym isn't at all similar to 10 miles on a real bike, but 40 minutes on that spin bike at a similar level of effort is going to be damn close to 40 "real" minutes, regardless of indicated speed. Or similarly, why it's effective at all to ride a trainer. If heavy bikes gave you a better workout, you'd see Lance et al training on Dutch bikes.

Physics doesn't just hold true in laboratories.

Darkstars

This has gotten entertaining. But to Fleabiscuit(? I think). You miss interperted what I said.... I'm going to be ridding to and from work every day it's sunny, on top of that one day a week purely for exersize, probobally Monday while I'm off work because I do my long runs (7-12 miles) on Sundays so it'll loosen up some soar legs. But then again either way it's not like I broke the bank for this, I was looking at the entry level Treks and this was alot more bike for the same cost. I don't buy cheap (quality), I buy things once and I do it right the first time.

Today was my first day ridding it to work and I like it alot. The only complaint I have that I'm gonna fix is the stem. The only semi-uncomfortable thing I feel would be easily fixed by moving the bars closer by about half an inch.

Darkstars

Actually goIng back and rereading what I said originally you didn't misinterperate what I said. You just flat out missed the word "AND". It was a funny rant though considering it was started by you getting owned by your own reading comprehension

No hard feelings or anything, I just found it comical

Fleabiscuit

Hey, I admit that I only skimmed your original post and missed more than the word "AND". Also, gel saddles and seat covers are really lame. Nice bike though!

No hard feelings or anything, I just find the thought of that cool bike with a big gel pad on it to be comical. Please take lots of pictures!

Cheers,

FB

Cheers,

FB

Darkstars

When I said original I meant the first post dircted to you, but whatever moot point, it's over.


The saddle isn't really any bigger then the one that came on it, the back half is leather and the front portion has a thin gel layer, it looks like it could have came on with it. I'll post up a picture later. From the sound of it your picturing a huge ginormous seat.

thegunner

you seem to have work and power confused. you said it yourself, think time, not distance. but in a previous post you said that he'd just get to his destination a whole lot faster on the fuji (true). even if he were to push 250W on both bikes, the end workout on the fuji is less since the time sustained for power is less. power [=] Joules/second. work [=] Joules.

crap, you've trivialized my degree in 7 words. i should just give up on life now.

lambo_vt

Sigh. An hour on a bike is an hour on a bike. An hour on a trainer is the same. Time, not distance. If you'd like to see more there are hundreds of threads pointing out this same fact, or as I said you can verify via Analytic Cycling.

Fleabiscuit

AAAAAAA!!!!! Okay, it's not an hour on a bike. We all agree the ride will take longer on the heavier bike. If he is expending 250w over a longer timeframe (distance is the same) then he will burn more calories. If he decides to strap on a backpack loaded with 100 lbs of lead weights and take the same ride, at the same 250w (this is a rate so you must mean watts per hour) output over a longer time horizon, he is expending even more energy, and burning more calories.

It's not an hour on the bike. Although the distance is the same, the time will be longer, as you correctly stated earlier, because a heavier bike is going slower at the same wattage output (assuming aerodynamics, route, etc., is the same for both bikes) and because the rider is expending the same level of energy for a longer period, he is burning more calories over the same distance.