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Will any stock frame ever fit me?

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Will any stock frame ever fit me?

Old 04-20-10, 10:27 PM
  #1  
TheOtherZach
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Will any stock frame ever fit me?

I am 6 foot tall with a cycling inseam of 36 1/4 inches. Is there a stock frame anywhere out there that would have a possibility of fitting me?

I purchased a size 58 Surly CC a month ago and even with an uncut steerer and high rise stem, the bars are way below the saddle and they feel too far away. The bike is fun for about half an hour, but anything beyond that is back and neck agony.

Any suggestions out there would be great. If a custom is the only way to, does anybody out there do it cheaply? Is there such a thing as a 1-2 thousand dollar custom frame?
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Old 04-20-10, 10:36 PM
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It's more complicated than just inseam and height.

However, what's the length and angle of your current stem? Also, how long have you been riding? It takes some getting used to before you can ride bent over like that.
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Old 04-20-10, 11:14 PM
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I have no idea why people think custom frames are megabuck range.

Curtlo - under a $1,000

De Salvo $1395

Carl Strong $1650

Rock Lobster $1250

Landshark $1350

etc.

Check out the options.

Off the rack is often more expensive than custom.
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Old 04-20-10, 11:50 PM
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Hard to say without seeing you on the bike, but could your frame be too small? I don't know that surly does this, but a lot of manufacturers and many bike shops tend to put people on bikes that, by old-school standards, are too small for them. I'm 6'4" (34 pants inseam; never measured my cycling inseam), and i rode for years on 60 or 62cm frames because that's what the LBS said I needed ("we'll put on a longer seatpost for you"). When I bought my atlantis, Rivendell's charts put me on a 65. i ordered it reluctantly, but it's perfect, and I can get the bars level with the saddle.
an old guide that's still effective, though you don't see it used much: Adjust the saddle where you need it for good leg extension, then close your fist around the exposed part of the seatpost. if your hand doesn't completely cover the post, the frame is too small (warning--almost EVERYBODY'S bike is too small by this standard, because tastes have changed, but the "smaller is stiffer and lighter" argument doesn't hold water if you're not comfortable).
as another post said, you'll get more flexible as you ride, but only to a point. No reason to suffer if you don't have to.

Last edited by Velo Dog; 04-20-10 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TheOtherZach View Post
I am 6 foot tall with a cycling inseam of 36 1/4 inches. Is there a stock frame anywhere out there that would have a possibility of fitting me?
I am 6' with an inseam of 35.4" (36" according to the fit I had done). I fit very comfortably on a bike with a 165mm HT & a 565mm ETT (in my case, a Ridley). It helps that I have long arms to go with my long legs, so the 130mm of saddle to handlebar drop is not at all uncomfortable, and I only have 1 10mm spacer under the stem. If you have shorter arms, you could add another spacer and use a riser stem... that should get you there.

V.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:18 AM
  #6  
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im confident that you can get a stock bike to fit you just fine.
http://www.lugoftheirish.com/Shamrock_Cycles/Home.html if you are looking custom, check out the brands mentioned above and that one. good luck.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:25 AM
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How good is your flexibility and core strength?

Start working on that.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TMB View Post
I have no idea why people think custom frames are megabuck range.

Curtlo - under a $1,000

De Salvo $1395

Carl Strong $1650

Rock Lobster $1250

Landshark $1350

etc.

Check out the options.

Off the rack is often more expensive than custom.
Keep in mind that most of these frame builders are back ordered out the whazoo and have wait times in the years.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:46 AM
  #9  
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I was going to rant about needing your measurements since inseam doesn't cut it, but let's do it this way:

Basic formula for a bike fit based on seat tube C-T measure = 0.67*inseam length
Your inseam = 36.25in = ~92cm
Your Bike = 58cm Seat Tube C-T (per Surly website)
You need a bike = 0.67*92cm = 61.7cm = 62 cm Surly Cross Check

You will receive the benefit of at least 20mm for head tube length based on their site which should help. Cockpit changes can be adjusted via stem length and bars. Regardless the bike has bad geo for you based on the information provided. The head tube length across the board is unusually short based on the frame sizing.
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Old 04-21-10, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Motobetird View Post
Keep in mind that most of these frame builders are back ordered out the whazoo and have wait times in the years.
Tsunami makes even less expensive custom Al frames. There are a billion builders out there, I'd only buy from the trusted ones though.
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Old 04-21-10, 05:07 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by duffymcpatzer View Post
Basic formula for a bike fit based on seat tube C-T measure = 0.67*inseam length
Your inseam = 36.25in = ~92cm
Your Bike = 58cm Seat Tube C-T (per Surly website)
You need a bike = 0.67*92cm = 61.7cm = 62 cm Surly Cross Check
That formula is an epic fail for people with long legs/short torso. I am very close to the OP's build and my 58cm Surly is a bit too big for me (ideally, a 56 would have been better).
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Old 04-21-10, 07:14 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Motobetird View Post
Keep in mind that most of these frame builders are back ordered out the whazoo and have wait times in the years.
In point of fact ( facts are so messy ), you will find that any of the builders listed, including Shamrock, have wait times measured in the range of approx 12 to 14 weeks - including paint.

Those messy facts.
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Old 04-21-10, 07:39 AM
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An uncut steer tube, as in 300mm? If that's true a bigger frame won't help, you need a custom fork, too.
You need to figure out your fit before you buy a frame, custom or not. If you don't want a lot of saddle to bar drop, that's where you can start. I have about the same inseam as you and I like the bar top about 1.5 inches below the saddle. For me, standard 300mm steer tubes work. I also like 59-60 top tube length, but I'm taller than you.

Yes, you can buy low priced custom sized frames and they can be had quickly.
I think a custom sized Gunnar is about $1000 without fork. My Gunnar took 2 weeks but it's a stock geometry 62.

Last edited by big john; 04-21-10 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 04-21-10, 08:31 AM
  #14  
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The Surly CC is not a good frame for you. It's long (TT) and low (HT). I think the Surly Long Haul Trucker is a better fit for you. The 56cm has a shorter TT and longer HT than the 58cm Cross Check.

Oops. Nevermind. I just noticed those LHT specs are for 26" wheels.

Last edited by mmmdonuts; 04-21-10 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 04-21-10, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
Tsunami makes even less expensive custom Al frames. There are a billion builders out there, I'd only buy from the trusted ones though.
Yes they do, and shame on me for not mentioning them.

I was actually planning to go see them next time I am in AZ.

They have done some really nice work.
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Old 04-21-10, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TMB View Post
In point of fact ( facts are so messy ), you will find that any of the builders listed, including Shamrock, have wait times measured in the range of approx 12 to 14 weeks - including paint.

Those messy facts.

My Landshark took about 8 weeks because he builds them in batches and you have to wait till he starts the next batch. But then I ordered mine in the fall when sales are slower.

Also when I bought components through Landshark I got them at far better prices then I could get anywhere else (of course you can only buy whats going on the bike).

I couldn't be more pleased with the bike. I rode misfitting bikes for years and getting on this the first time everything just felt right.
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Old 04-21-10, 09:00 AM
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Before you give up on your Xcheck, try changing the seatpost to a non-setback post.
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Old 04-21-10, 10:01 AM
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To answer that question, you need to figure out if the fit problem is entirely due to your long legs and short torso or also due to the need for a small saddle to bar drop. You've got a little more leg to torso length than I have, but not much. I have no problem with most stock frames, but I can also tolerate a lot of saddle to bar drop (11cm). If you can't tolerate at least 7cm of drop, then part of the problem is probably a lack of fitness, or perhaps you've got the saddle too far forward. A too-forward saddle places more weight on your hands and makes a large drop less tolerable. It's also possible that you have short arms to go with your torso. That would make things even worse.

What's your actual saddle height? Your 92cm inseam would suggest something around 81cm.

If your saddle is that height, then the head tube length is quite short. I'd expect the need for a lot of spacers and/or a flipped up stem. The Surly geometry is quite odd. The four smallest sizes all have the same head tube length.

If you're not using short reach bars, that's always a wise change for someone with a short torso. I always use short reach bars, like the Easton EC90-SLX3.

Last edited by DaveSSS; 04-21-10 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 04-21-10, 11:00 AM
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58cm sounds long. I'm 6'2" and a 58cm C'dale is perfect, although in my mind it's a tad small but it always turns out to be just right. I'd check out the 56cm sizes. GL
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Old 04-21-10, 01:37 PM
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Hard to tell without seeing a picture of you on your bike, any chance you can post one??

However, I am 6 feet tall with a cycling inseam of 38 inches. I know for a fact I cannot be fit properly on a stock frame. That 38 is NOT a typo, it's actually 97 cm which is a bit over 38 inches.

I suspect you can get pretty much in the ballpark with a 60 or 61cm frame, but you need a good fitter in person to help you.

If the bike fits you properly, it's ok to have the bars a few cm below the saddle.

Doug
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Old 04-22-10, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vkalia View Post
That formula is an epic fail for people with long legs/short torso. I am very close to the OP's build and my 58cm Surly is a bit too big for me (ideally, a 56 would have been better).
Which is why i was going to rant about his measurements. See first part of my post, you did not quote. Seriously, the info received by the OP is far from useful. how about upper arm, forearm, torso, sternal notch. Plus flexibility. How about his current BB-Saddle height? Is it too high? who the hell knows? Plus he didn't give us anything on the bike.

And on top of it you failed to give us your measurements and just claimed fail. just saying. How do you know you are very close to the OP's build?

Inseam is the worst of all the measurements to just go off of. Plus the OP bought a bike with one of the most absurdly short head tubes I have seen in recent memory and then complained about the reach.

To the OP: the point of the post was yes you can fit on a stock frame- you just picked the wrong bike.
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Old 04-22-10, 12:58 AM
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You do have pretty long legs for your height so fit is probably not going to be as straight forward as you might like... if you are selecting a bike based on your riding inseam alone you are not factoring in reach and other factors like flexibility and core strength.

I am not surprised that you feel stretched out and would probably see nothing amiss in your bike unless you were on it.
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Old 04-22-10, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by kuan View Post
Before you give up on your Xcheck, try changing the seatpost to a non-setback post.
The saddle setback is the most critical dimension of bike fit and one should never use a non-setback seatpost to compensate for reach issues.

To the original poster: look for bikes that have tall headtubes for a given size (Specialized Roubaix comes to mind). That way, you will have a better chance of getting the reach right without an excessive amount of saddle to handlebar drop.
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Old 04-22-10, 09:01 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fa63 View Post
The saddle setback is the most critical dimension of bike fit and one should never use a non-setback seatpost to compensate for reach issues.

To the original poster: look for bikes that have tall headtubes for a given size (Specialized Roubaix comes to mind). That way, you will have a better chance of getting the reach right without an excessive amount of saddle to handlebar drop.
+1 Felt Z series, Cannondale Synapse, Trek 1.X & 2.X all have taller headtubes/shorter top tubes than their racier counterparts.
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