steveymcdubs

Just kidding.. sorta

I couldn't help it, and thought it'd garner more attention. Anyway, my question isn't quite solely stem-related as it is fit-related in general.

I know there's a bajillion of these threads, but I'm looking for some fit critique. I've always thought that my bike was slightly too large for me, but I've been rethinking this recently. Initially, I had the stem flipped up and still felt a little stretched out. Longer rides would result in a sore lower back. Now, I'm perfectly comfortable with the stem flipped down. When I think about it now, I think it fits me pretty well. Could I get some confirmation that I'm doing this right? I do plan on getting a pro fit once I settle on an actual road bike, but that's a bit down the line.

Things that I've been focusing on:

1) Knee lined up with the pedal spindle when cranks are parallel with the ground.
2) Saddle height adjusted for slight bend in knee when cranks are perpendicular with ground.
3) Green accent wall for maximum tarckage.

Now that I look at it, maybe my saddle is slightly too high?

Anyway, as a point of reference, it's a 55cm Jamis Sputnik (pretty standard road geometry, not track) with 54.7cm c-t seat tube, 56cm top tube, and 100mm stem. Prior to rethinking this, I always thought I'd fit better on a 53-54cm bike. But now, it looks to me like I'd be okay on a 56cm. I seem to recall reading somewhere that too short/long of a stem would result in messed up handling, and that stem length should be somewhat proportional to top tube length. Any thoughts on an ideal top tube/stem length for me?




Thanks in advance.

CyciumX

Seat too high... Saddle too far back and spine not loose enough.... At ease soldier!...and everything will be fine.


....get a rear brake Johnnie Tarcko

woodenidol

Seat does look a bit high, but as to seat set back, isnt that debable after the Saddle set back thread?

steveymcdubs

K, saddle height is something I'll adjust. Regarding seat set back, though, isn't your saddle supposed to be in a position where your knee is directly above the pedal spindle when the cranks are parallel to the ground?

woodenidol

I would read this thread.

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ght=importance

steveymcdubs

"Changing your setback messes with your pedal stroke because it changes where your knees are in relation to the pedals. fa63 is correct, don't mess with setback to adjust reach. Reach should be adjusted with different length stems."

I understand this. First, adjust saddle height, then saddle setback (KOPS), then adjust reach with different stems. I'm just trying to get a little input on proper frame size for me. Does it look like the 56cm top tube works? Or should I go for 54-55?

lazerzxr

Looks like you have a double bend in your spine so IMO back curve shape is poor. Aching shoulders?

lazerzxr

Actually I have no idea, what size stem you have now?

steveymcdubs

Nah, shoulders never ache. The current stem is 100mm.

rufvelo

Where's your Garmin outfit? ...its hard to provide any kind of advice without

CyciumX

*backs away from thread slowly*

nahh

sorry...throw some Zipps on that and tell me how they're not bling or I can't help you...

(lower your seat a bit)

steveymcdubs

I'll play with the seat height a bit. Thanks for the input thus far guys. But still, anyone have anything to say about top tube length for me? Should I go for a 54/55cm, or take the "if it ain't broke" approach?

CyciumX

Stop staring @ them damn fixies (pixies?) with 3 inch wide bars made from trimmed down bar ends. You got bulls on and now you gotta bend more... just the way it is. The bike looks to be right around your size.

mike868y

I think you need some drops.

gumbii

aren't you using your bullhorns wrong...???

i ride my fixed gear like i'm riding my roadie on the hoods... so i reach alot more towards the ends of the horns... so move your seat down and forward... alot...

Caad 8

Is that Dura-Ace shifters and a Sram Crank?

steveymcdubs

I'm not trying to go down the tarcked out 'fixie' route. The bike is road geometry, and I use it primarily to get around campus.

Risers are pointless. Drops are completely unnecessary as bullhorns provide a hood-like position without the actual presence of hoods. I never find myself wishing I could be in drops for more aero-ness while on campus. Hence, the bullhorns. I have my hands placed as such in the picture because that's where I guesstimated where drops would be if it were an actual road bike.

I guess what I'm really asking is, I don't look too stretched out do I?

CyciumX

For an old man that doesn't ride a lot... you look really stretched. For a young buck with a good back who wants to zoom zoom around campus... no.

steveymcdubs

I'm not trying to go down the tarcked out 'fixie' route. The bike is road geometry, and I use it primarily to get around campus.

Risers are pointless. Drops are completely unnecessary as bullhorns provide a hood-like position without the actual presence of hoods. I never find myself wishing I could be in drops for more aero-ness while on campus. Hence, the bullhorns. I have my hands placed as such in the picture because that's where I guesstimated where drops would be if it were an actual road bike.

Like I said twice before, I know seat height needs to be adjusted. And no, I'm not moving the saddle forward to alter handlebar contact.

And DA shifters? What? But yes, SRAM cranks.

I guess what I'm really asking is, I don't look too stretched out do I?

CyciumX

The DA/SRAM joke is from the thread you parodied the title from....

steveymcdubs

Lol, my bad, musta missed that one.

gumbii

also... you probably shouldn't've cut your steerer so much... if you feel stretched and back all curved, you should've left it a little longer...

chadteck

Depending on how you prefer your heel to be oriented at the bottom of the pedal stroke, your saddle could be inches too high. Your knee doesn't seem to have enough bend AND your heel is raised.