Right heel hitting chainstay on Cannondale Road bike
05-12-10, 05:30 PM
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Right heel hitting chainstay on Cannondale Road bike
Working on fixing up my dad's sr-400 from the 80's. Most of the work is done, and I took it on its first shakedown ride. My right heal is grazing off the chainstay on the drive side of the bike.
This is my first road bike, and my first set of clipless pedals/shoes as well. Right now, my feet are pretty much parallel to the downtube when I pedal. My natural position is heels in just a little, which would make the heal strike issue even worse.
What can I do about this other than point my big toes at the downtube?
Oh, I wear a size 48 Eu shoe as well ><. I really hope I haven't gotten myself $200+ into a rebuild that I'm not going to be able to ride. (New tires, tubes, chain, brake pads, cables, housings, new gear cable/housings, shoes)
This is my first road bike, and my first set of clipless pedals/shoes as well. Right now, my feet are pretty much parallel to the downtube when I pedal. My natural position is heels in just a little, which would make the heal strike issue even worse.
What can I do about this other than point my big toes at the downtube?
Oh, I wear a size 48 Eu shoe as well ><. I really hope I haven't gotten myself $200+ into a rebuild that I'm not going to be able to ride. (New tires, tubes, chain, brake pads, cables, housings, new gear cable/housings, shoes)
05-12-10, 05:41 PM
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move the cleats back on the shoe a little bit. that will put your heel forward. put a spacer in the pedal spindle, that would push your foot out a mm or three.
05-12-10, 05:48 PM
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As said, you really will just have to adjust the cleats so you don't hit. That frame has huge straight chain stays and not the best heel clearance to begin with. I think they even had a purposed dent in it so the crank wouldn't hit.
Last edited by teterider; 05-12-10 at 05:54 PM.
05-12-10, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ygduf
move the cleats back on the shoe a little bit. that will put your heel forward. put a spacer in the pedal spindle, that would push your foot out a mm or three.
THIS ^^
05-12-10, 08:35 PM
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I use Kneesavers, a 20mm spacer, on my CAAD 5 and my right heel still hits the stay. I do toe-out quite a bit. I don't hit on some other bikes.
Don't try to force your knees to do something they don't want to do.
Don't try to force your knees to do something they don't want to do.
05-12-10, 09:41 PM
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Some people have more knee issues than others. I've always put my cleats on the shoes, clipped the shoes to the pedals, then adjusted the cleats so the shoes cleared the chainstays. I've never had any knee problems in over 20 years.
Adjust your cleats to miss the chainstays, and watch to see how your knees do. If you have any sign of knee problems then hit your LBS for some help.
Adjust your cleats to miss the chainstays, and watch to see how your knees do. If you have any sign of knee problems then hit your LBS for some help.
05-12-10, 10:12 PM
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Is your name Tesch?
05-13-10, 03:31 AM
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yup, cleats. move them back and/or in. Make sure your knee tracks straight. Zero float cleats will also help.
05-13-10, 06:07 AM
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OP, you didn't mention what cleat/pedal/shoe combination you are using. SPD cleats have some ability to shift left/right, as well as fore/aft and angle.
05-13-10, 06:46 AM
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Don't mess with your cleat position - screwing with your pedaling mechanics is a one-way ticket to more problems.
Are you pedaling pigeon-toed? Are your knees 6" away from the top tube? If so, that could be your problem.
Are you pedaling pigeon-toed? Are your knees 6" away from the top tube? If so, that could be your problem.
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05-13-10, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bdcheung
Don't mess with your cleat position - screwing with your pedaling mechanics is a one-way ticket to more problems.
Are you pedaling pigeon-toed? Are your knees 6" away from the top tube? If so, that could be your problem.
Are you pedaling pigeon-toed? Are your knees 6" away from the top tube? If so, that could be your problem.
However, I think the OP should consider moving the cleat inward on the shoe, thereby moving his foot out. That may well do less to compromise his pedaling mechanics, than holding his foot at an unatural angle to compensate for the heel strike.
If moving the cleat laterally doesn't cause him foot pain, its quicker and cheaper than getting spacers or extenders, and accomplishes the same effect.
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05-13-10, 08:40 AM
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check that you are sitting straight on the saddle. work on your form. many people walk and or pedal a little cockeyed ...
05-13-10, 08:49 AM
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Using first generation Look Pedals, and Delta Cleats. As I said, this is my first set of clipless. I moved the cleats back, and that seemed to help a little, also put more of my foot over the pedal, which is what I want anyway. I'll do more of a ride once I get my right hand sorted, or else, I'll go for a one handed ride.
I know to make my knees happy first, since cycling is pretty much the only exercise I can do on them. (Knee injury VERY young) I treat my knees as best I can, no doubt! I think the adjustment will actually help them. I defintiely DIDn'T want to point my toes more toward the downtube.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I may look into the knee saver things as well once I get a chance to do a more thorough test ride.
I know to make my knees happy first, since cycling is pretty much the only exercise I can do on them. (Knee injury VERY young) I treat my knees as best I can, no doubt! I think the adjustment will actually help them. I defintiely DIDn'T want to point my toes more toward the downtube.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I may look into the knee saver things as well once I get a chance to do a more thorough test ride.
05-13-10, 08:53 AM
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Also.
Obligatory.
Get a bike fit, if you haven't already. Especially with prior knee injuries.
Obligatory.
Get a bike fit, if you haven't already. Especially with prior knee injuries.
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05-13-10, 09:47 AM
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I had the same problem with Look-style pedals on my Ridley. The chainstays are shaped weird and my heel was clipping every time I went around, but it turned out that a cracked cleat was allowing too much movement on the drive side - replaced cleat, tightened up pedal tension, and the problem was solved.
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