VoodooChi|d

So I'm doing my first charity ride this weekend and have been tinkering with my saddle position but can't seem to dial it in.

I have been having a bit of perineum pain (which would indicate saddle is too far back/high) and slight front of knee pain on longer rides (which would indicate the opposite) so I'm a bit confused.

Anyway, I snapped a pic after my ride today in the position I think is best for judgement so let me know what y'all think. All help is greatly appreciated.

Motobetird

Extension too much? Lower Seatpost a tad?

coasting 

yes..lower quite a bit more than a tad

Reggieb

Your seat is too high, you have to point your feet down at the bottom to reach your pedal, and your knee shouldn't be fully extended like that.

VoodooChi|d

Wouldn't the lower position make the knee pain worse?

Also, although I can't fix this before this weekend, is it possible that the crank arms are too long? I believe they're 172.5. I'm 5'4" and this is a 51cm bike.

coasting 

it is curious that you have front knee pain with seat too high. i had hamstring strain from seat too high.

JoelS

Yeah, seat is too high. And if your crank arms are 172.5, they are too long for you at 5'4". I'm 5'7 on a 52, with 170mm crank arms. Very happy with that.

sakonnetclip

To me the frame just looks out of whack with your body. Seat too high, reach too long etc...

Reggieb

And yet, there it is, because that thing is too high. There are a lot of things that can cause joint pain.

VoodooChi|d

Yeah, I just checked the Lemond spec sheet and they are 172.5mm (confirming my measurement). Odd that it would come with such a long crank on a small bike. Would I be better off with 170mm cranks or even shorter? Also, wouldn't a shorter crank allow me to keep the higher saddle position?

Since I won't be able to do anything about that before this weekend about how much should I lower the seatpost?

BTW thanks for all the quick replies!

coasting 

i dont think the frame looks too long

as for saddle height, get a 10deg angle at bottom of stroke

pandabear

shorter cranks.

Hunt-man

Lower your seat about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Rotate bars up a tad, will shorten reach. Check knee over pedal shaft; should be front of knee even or slightly behind. Just a starting point.

And stop wearing black face, isn't cool at all anymore.

VoodooChi|d

This may be a dumb question, but can I just replace the crank arms? It's an early 2000s Tiagra crankset.

VoodooChi|d

Thanks for the advice. I lowered it some and will rotate the bars and get another pic tomorrow.

Sorry about the blackface, but I had my minstrel show right after.

Kauzman01

I was just going to recommend uncovering your face. You'll corner and ride in the pack a lot better that way. Otherwise, it looks great, but I really don't know anything.

MrTuner1970

I'm certainly no fit wizard, but it looks that way to me also.

The seat definitely needs to be lowered, though. With your current setup, you would be rocking your hips a lot as you pedal. That would cause perineum pain, as well as saddle sores. To get it closer to right do this: With the pedal in the 6:00 position, put your heel on the pedal. Your leg should now be extended (about like it is in your picture). Currently, it's over-extended.

It looks like you would be more comfortable if you moved the saddle forward 1 cm or so. You can get it closer to right by using a plumb bob tied to a string. I use a piece of twine with a big socket on the end. Drop it from your knee to the pedal spindle when the pedal is in the 3:00 position. If the string bisects, it's close to right.

As far as crank length ... I'm 5' 10" and have 170 mm cranks on a 55 cm frame. So, yeah, I'd say yours are too long for you. But it doesn't mean you can't make it work. My first bike was a 60 cm frame with 175 mm cranks. I rode it many miles without any crotch or back pain.

Fleabiscuit

I wouldn't worry about your cranks, they don't seem bad. Lower your saddle a little and see how it feels. It looks at least a couple cm's too high. Make small changes and test. Only change one thing at a time.

I once raised my saddle over 1cm, pushed it back, lowered my bars, changed my cleat position and went for a 50 mile ride with some faster riders. My knee was clicking for months. The local shop that did my initial fitting told me they had never seen such a poor fit. They corrected it and it was good (until I made more ill-advised changes).

gpelpel

As a startup for correct seat hight; while sitting level on your saddle your fully extended leg shoe heel should just touch the pedal at its lowest position. You can then lower or raise the saddle a bit according to how you feel after a ride.

As for saddle horizontal position; while sitting level and the feet in their riding position, put the cranks horizontal to the ground. Your front knee cap should be just in front end of the pedal spindle.

Once the saddle position is settled; while seated on it put your hands on the hoods (as in the photo) and keep your arms relaxed with a slight bend. The handlebar should prevent you from viewing the front wheel hub.

This is a standard base for proper fitting. Now, we all have different preferences due to anatomy, age, type of riding. But starting from this base it is easy to fine tune your position after each ride.

By the way I wouldn't worry about the crank size at this point, 2.5mm won't make much of an impact at this point. A shorter set might allow you to spin faster but the longer size will make climbing a bit easier. Most mountain bikes come with 175mm cranks standard.

Hunt-man

And more.... If you get some cycling shoes with clip-less pedals that might help. Often cycling shoes are a bit taller in the sole and add just a bit in overall leg length. Wait till you are over the weekend ride to do much. Just a bit lower seat and rotate the bars for now and ride. Next week, better shoes and perhaps go for a fit somewhere.

VoodooChi|d

Cycling shoes/pedals are definitely on the short list.

datlas 

+1 on lowering saddle....but you already know that.

Don't worry about cranks, even if 170's are better for you, you will not likely notice a difference between 172.5 and 170....save your money for something that will really make a difference....like clipless pedals, hint hint.

ultraman6970

U forgot to add the cycling shoes... no way to know if the fitting is kind'a right using snickers.

Loose Chain

Dude, in your bare feet, feet six inches apart, stand back to the wall. Have your gf/wife buddy etc hold a hard cover book up TIGHT into your crotch. Pull it up so it starts to hurt or even feel like they are trying to lift you (now, don't over do it, lol). Place a mark at the intersection of the book to the wall. Measure that number and then multiply it by .883. The adjust your saddle so that measured from the center of the bottom bracket crank to the crown of the saddle along the seat tube equal your result. This is your starting point, depending upon shoes, cleats, foot size, crank arms etc the actual saddle height that is optimal will vary slightly--SLIGHTLY--but this gets you very, very close.

I like 170 cranks on a 55 to 56 frame and I am a tad over 5-10 and fairly long legs and arms. I like to spin the crap out of my crank, not a masher here. If you are a masher then the 172 may be OK.

frpax

I think the crank is fine. 2.5mm isn't going to hurt anything. I ride a 54cm frame and rode 172.5's for YEARS and it was nothing at all.

Saddle is definitely too high, by a couple of cm's at least.

Do you have cycling shoes? Or do you ride in sneakers?

1. Saddle height: If you've got cycling shoes, lower the saddle 2cm, clip in, and you should have a slight bend at the knee when your foot is at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Adjust saddle more (either up or down) accordingly. Saddle should be level. Lay a yard stick along it's axis, step back and look at it. It will be immediately apparent if an adjustment is needed

2. Saddle fore/aft: Once you've got the height squared away, and while still clipped in, bring your foot to the 3 o'clock position (or 9 o'clock depending on how you want to look at it) with the crank arm parallel to the ground. Take a string with a bolt or something to weight it and plumb down from right under your kneecap toward the floor. The string should touch the pedal spindle. Adjust saddle forward or aft as necessary.

3. Now that you've got those two done, while clipped in still, get into a riding position with your hands on the drops, elbows slightly bent. Now, while in this position, look at your front hub. Does the handle bar obscure the view of it? If so, then you are pretty well fit. If the hub is forward or aft of the bar, then you need a longer or shorter stem.

3A. The top of the bar should be a few cm's lower than your saddle.

There you are. All fit. No need to go to a bike shop and shell out a Benjamin (or more) for them to make all kinds of measurements and put some fancy devices on you when the end result is just what I've described.

From this point, you make very small adjustments as needed.

So there you go.