I've got about 3000 miles on mine. No line on my front tire anymore, but they're still going strong. I'm fairly well sold.
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just mounted some Conti GP4000's, riding them tomorrow, from what everyone else says, i will love them
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i shoot for $30 a tire
gp4000s, pr3s and I bought some gatorskins awhile back. seemed to get MORE flats with them. the glass was sticking to the rubber and making its way into the tube more often, but that could have been my perception. i look for a tire that I'm not worried about traction on and that's not known for a lot of flats. I was somewhat disappointed with the lifespan of my last pr3 rear -- something like 1500 miles and I could see the casing. I'm going on 3k on the front gp4000 I have which makes me happy. I think I got about 2k out of the rear |
Originally Posted by Val23708
(Post 10899242)
My rear tires last 3-4000 miles. Front tires still show the line down the middle after 3000 miles so those get rotated to the back and a new one goes on the front.
EDIT-- weight 170, psi 95 front, 105 rear. That's just as fast as running 110/110 but it's way more comfortable. |
Originally Posted by Val23708
(Post 10899242)
My rear tires last 3-4000 miles. Front tires still show the line down the middle after 3000 miles so those get rotated to the back and a new one goes on the front.
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Originally Posted by Val23708
(Post 10899242)
My rear tires last 3-4000 miles. Front tires still show the line down the middle after 3000 miles so those get rotated to the back and a new one goes on the front.
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Originally Posted by Toddorado
(Post 10899626)
How much do you weigh, and do you run max PSI?
I rode 43 miles the other day and forgot to pump the tires prior to leaving. About halfway out, I noticed that the rear was feeling a tad soft, and it was at 100 when I got home. That ride consisted of a lot of rough pavement and debris. I was fairly sure I'd gotten a small puncture or something, but no... just a little leakage. Still doing good. I'm most impressed with these tires! |
Originally Posted by frpax
(Post 10899692)
Not directed at me, I know, but I'm 185 (down from 200) and I run 115 psi max.
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My Bontrager hardcases are 50 a pop, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles. I have had to replace the rear tire two times due to glass slicing down through the rubber and partially into the cords, which to me is living on borrowed time, so I replaced them in both cases. The front tire has never been replaced or flatted. Looks like a warzone, but I do pick out all the rocks, glass, metal, etc out of the tire after every ride so that nothing works it's way in. I run at 110 psi front and back. Any less than that, and the tire starts feeling soft and not as responsive.
My tires seem to be pretty much solid for day to day use, but large cuts take them out like any other tire that runs over large and sharp debris. Normal junk seems to have no effect on the tires. |
Originally Posted by deep_sky
(Post 10899712)
My Bontrager hardcases are 50 a pop, but I've had one flat in 3000 miles. I have had to replace the rear tire two times due to glass slicing down through the rubber and partially into the cords, which to me is living on borrowed time, so I replaced them in both cases. The front tire has never been replaced or flatted. Looks like a warzone, but I do pick out all the rocks, glass, metal, etc out of the tire after every ride so that nothing works it's way in. I run at 110 psi front and back. Any less than that, and the tire starts feeling soft and not as responsive.
My tires seem to be pretty much solid for day to day use, but large cuts take them out like any other tire that runs over large and sharp debris. Normal junk seems to have no effect on the tires. |
Well, I typically avoid riding in wet conditions. Aside from the lowered handling (and yes, they are not the greatest in the wet), I dislike having to spend 30+ minutes cleaning my bike afterwards, even with the fenders attached, or being soaked through because proper cycling rain gear is expensive and there are much more important upgrades than adding some gear to my cycling gear drawer that might get used a handful of times at most in a year. Yes it does rain more frequently than that here in the winter, but there are generally enough dry days to keep my fitness up, even during the winter. One of the reasons I probably won't ever move from this area :)
I am willing to entertain some suggestions of tires that are just as tough as the hardcases with better handling on wet pavement, however. We don't have a lot of gnarly plant life to be a constant source of punctures in my particular area, so all I have to worry about is the urban junk on the roads :) |
Handling and durability. +1 on GP4000s. $30 from pbk if you get them on sale and use the usa10 code.
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Well, I guess it's back to the GP4000 for me. I've had them before, and liked them. They did start having these peeling strings on the sidewalls that started to make me nervous (I've never had tires do that before, and didn't know what to make of it). They lasted a long time, got less flats than gatorskins, and handled quite a bit better. I will say the Schwalbe Ultremo is as good, if not a little better, in ride quality compared to the GP4000. I guess now it's just time to see how they hold up. So far I've had them mounted since the 28 of April, put just over 1000 miles on them, and not a single flat yet (knock on wood). That's kind of a big deal for NM roads, which is why I'm considering buying them again. The best riding tire I ever had was the PR3, but those flatted about every 15 feet. Sure did stick to corners, though. Thanks everyone for the input.
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Originally Posted by ls0725
(Post 10898177)
I replaced a pair of low/mid cost Continental Ultra Sport with Vittoria Open Corsa Cx 320tpi which cost +$100 for the pair. What did I get for the premium price? The ride was more comfortable, the grip was superb and less rolling resistance. It also had that tubular look when installed to the wheels. I dont have a long ride time data yet as to it's puncture proof ability.
But just for the reasons mentioned above, it was worth it and would not evaluate it's $ to whatever ratio. I am happy with it and that's it. |
Originally Posted by frpax
(Post 10899731)
Hardcases have a poor reputation in the wet. For me, in Arizona, that's not that much of a concern, but for others...
Originally Posted by SoreFeet
(Post 10897798)
20-30$ tires work just as well as the 50-70$ tires. The only difference is marketing and packaging. Expect less mileage from race oriented tires. The worst value is cheap sew up tires. They are lumpy, hard to mount and just don't work worth a continental.
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Originally Posted by LoRoK
(Post 10900011)
The best riding tire I ever had was the PR3, but those flatted about every 15 feet.
Originally Posted by mazdaspeed
(Post 10898792)
I like rubino pros for the price.
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I picked up a set of these to try and totally satisfied with the ride quality, cornering everything. http://www.bikesomewhere.com/bikesom.../342/2787/9724 (no shill just a link to see the tires)
Gommitalia Blitz. Only 500 miles on them but they look brand new. |
Flat protection is key and since I started riding on Gatorskins, I haven't had a single flat (or multiple flats, either). I don't really care if they put kevlar or teflon or lambskin or whatever in there or how much they weigh, as long as they don't flat on me!
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On the GP4000s -- what is the "black chili" on the S model. Is that something to be avoided? A bonus? Just marketing?
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Wow, are the GP4000s really that good? I thought I would compromise some rolling resistance in exchange for better flat protection by switching from Pro 2 Race to Ultra Gatorskins. Not only do they feel slower, but I have gotten 6 flats in 3000 miles. The P2R tires had only 2 flats their entire lives. The sidewall threads keep coming loose on the Gatorskins, as well This makes me hesitant to go back to any Continental tire.
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
(Post 10901584)
Wow, are the GP4000s really that good? I thought I would compromise some rolling resistance in exchange for better flat protection by switching from Pro 2 Race to Ultra Gatorskins. Not only do they feel slower, but I have gotten 6 flats in 3000 miles. The P2R tires had only 2 flats their entire lives. The sidewall threads keep coming loose on the Gatorskins, as well This makes me hesitant to go back to any Continental tire.
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
(Post 10901584)
Wow, are the GP4000s really that good? I thought I would compromise some rolling resistance in exchange for better flat protection by switching from Pro 2 Race to Ultra Gatorskins. Not only do they feel slower, but I have gotten 6 flats in 3000 miles. The P2R tires had only 2 flats their entire lives. The sidewall threads keep coming loose on the Gatorskins, as well This makes me hesitant to go back to any Continental tire.
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Yes, the sidewalls are pretty thin and they don't last as long, but I'm spending a fortune in patches and CO2 with the Contis!
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Originally Posted by urbanknight
(Post 10905300)
Yes, the sidewalls are pretty thin and they don't last as long, but I'm spending a fortune in patches and CO2 with the Contis!
buy this: http://www.amazon.com/Rema-25mm-Roun.../dp/B0017RV5K4 |
Originally Posted by kudude
(Post 10905320)
for someone who is notably on a budget on BF............why the **** are you using co2?
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Fan of regular Conti Grand Prix's myself. However, I bought three of these POS for $8 per tire over the holidays with the intention of using them on my trainer over the winter. Dug out of the snow in late February and have been riding them out on the road. Just shy of 1000 miles and they're still holding air and a straight line that includes a 1/4 mile stretch of strada bianca. They're 25mm wide which isn't speedy, sporty, or sexy, but training wheelsets and tires usually aren't.
The cycling gods are surely frowning upon my boastfulness and will decree that I flat during tomorrow's ride. |
I swore off cheap tires after getting a blowout on a Hutchinson Flash.
Rich cyclists will spend thousands of dollars to shave a few watts with deep-section carbon rims and aero frame tubing. Maybe I can't/won't do that, I can at least afford to drop an extra $20 or so for good, low-rolling-resistance tires. I get some flats from time to time, but it's not too bad. I just hope I don't flat tonight -- I'm riding home after work and I forgot my "saddle bag". Brand new Michelin P3R's... |
They're really not THAT expensive...
I bought two of the Continental GP4000S tires from Pro Bike Kit during their sale last month. Delivered price was something like $30.45 each. That's really not crazy different than walking into your LBS and purchasing a "cheap" $20 tire.
I haven't mounted them yet because my CAAD9-5 stock Vittoria Zafiro Pro tires have 1000+ flat-free miles on them. I'm half-inclined to continue with Vittoria since these have been so dependable. With all the glowing reviews of the GP4000S tires I'm anxious to see if I notice a difference in handling. I think a lot of flats are just plain old bad luck. Hit that wrong rock, wrong pothole or run over that piece of glass and you're done. I do think you can minimize flats by buying the right tire for where you ride. I'm down in SoCal and there are no thorns or nasty roads where I ride. Everything is really smooth or a nice paved trail without goatheads or thorns or potholes. Probably any tire would work out okay for me. Come to think of it I VERY rarely see somebody fixing a flat tire and I pass probably 300-400 bicyclists on any given ride. It's a cycling mecca out here! |
Considering I get the same mileage out of my Michelins or even Forte tires ($12-$15), yes, they are that expensive. I'm just wondering if the increased price is worth it for a smoother ride.
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