SRAM gruppo vs. Shimano gruppo
#101
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
Using the word "gruppo" is like calling wine "vin".
#102
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
~$680 for the complete group which is a steal
https://www.shinybikes.com/bikes/camp...-groupset.html
https://www.shinybikes.com/bikes/camp...-groupset.html

#103
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They are all groupsets in America, and if your in Italy they are all gruppos.
I love Sram's double tap. other than that, i could care less.
I love Sram's double tap. other than that, i could care less.
#104
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https://www.campyonly.com/topten.html
Tim's Top Ten Reasons Why
Campagnolo is Better than ShimaNO
10. You can actually take the rear hub apart with out a factory tool.
9. The bottom bracket and rear hub gear cluster are the same tool, and lighter than a boat anchor.
8. Shifter cables don`t get AM radio.
7. Headsets last more than the first good rain storm.
6. No irritating special pins to put into the chain.
5. All hubs and gear clusters interchange.
4. Never have to change out the annoying Bio-Pace chain rings.
3. Down tube shifters have derailleur trim adjustment on the shifter.
(Remember the Park Bicycle Tool add with the Motorola Rider getting a rear derailleur tweak by the mechanic leaning out of the team car? The entire reason this happened was because he was riding ShimaNO. The rest of the riders on Campy made the adjustment while riding and dropped this poor fool.)
2. SPD cleats don`t make stable platforms to pedal from.
(I have yet to see a top professional ride ShimaNO road pedals. Look at the next race and see how many ShimaNO pedals you see.)
1. You never have to remember if you are braking or shifting.
Tim's 5 Reasons Why ShimaNO People Are Stupid
(And Suffer From )
1. Gear clusters don`t come apart. ShimaNO buyers could not put them back together.
2. People that buy ShimaNO can`t use a chain tool. The special $1 each links for their chains prove that. How many years have the rest of us been using a chain tool!!! It works for everybody else or they wouldn't sell them.
3. ShimaNO MTB clusters come in 11-28 period. Nobody could figure out what gears work best so you don`t get a choice. If you spend the $1500 for XTR you can go for the 11-32 cluster, but that is special order.
4. MTB straddle cables don`t adjust so you can`t get it wrong. If there is a fit problem you need another special order cable that is shorter or longer. If ShimaNO people could adjust the cable properly this wouldn`t be necessary.
5. The rear hub doesn`t come apart for service because ShimaNO customers can't put them back together anyway.
Tim's New Top Ten!
Ten more reason not to buy Dura-Ace components:
1. 600 and 105 get zero improvements this year, because Dura-Ace has so many problems everybody is working on a fix.
2. Dura-Ace hollow arm cranks dent easily, but you can have the body shop pull the dent and put Bondo on it.
3. Gear indicator on the Dura-Ace is just a lube squeege. If the cable has any dirt or grease it gets stuck in the indicator window and clogged up.
4. Dura-Ace gear indicator window fills with water when it rains.
5. Shimano advertizes several Dura-Ace cassettes, but the only one the distributors seem to have is a 12-25.
6. Service parts for Dura-Ace don`t exist.
7. Dura-Ace dual pivot calipers come with factory stripped aluminum bolts so you have to drill then off to service the brakes.
8. Shimano sells slotted hubs so you can make and aero bladed wheel for Dura-Ace. Campy makes a total solution with rim hub and spokethat works much better (Shamal). Don`t treat the sympton, get the cure.
9. Shimano doesn`t even make rims. It probably better that way. If they did you have to ride with a spare.
10. Shimano`s idea of a sealing the bottom bracket for Dura-Ace is putting tape on the box it comes in.
Tim's Top Ten Reasons Why
Campagnolo is Better than ShimaNO
10. You can actually take the rear hub apart with out a factory tool.
9. The bottom bracket and rear hub gear cluster are the same tool, and lighter than a boat anchor.
8. Shifter cables don`t get AM radio.
7. Headsets last more than the first good rain storm.
6. No irritating special pins to put into the chain.
5. All hubs and gear clusters interchange.
4. Never have to change out the annoying Bio-Pace chain rings.
3. Down tube shifters have derailleur trim adjustment on the shifter.
(Remember the Park Bicycle Tool add with the Motorola Rider getting a rear derailleur tweak by the mechanic leaning out of the team car? The entire reason this happened was because he was riding ShimaNO. The rest of the riders on Campy made the adjustment while riding and dropped this poor fool.)
2. SPD cleats don`t make stable platforms to pedal from.
(I have yet to see a top professional ride ShimaNO road pedals. Look at the next race and see how many ShimaNO pedals you see.)
1. You never have to remember if you are braking or shifting.
Tim's 5 Reasons Why ShimaNO People Are Stupid
(And Suffer From )
1. Gear clusters don`t come apart. ShimaNO buyers could not put them back together.
2. People that buy ShimaNO can`t use a chain tool. The special $1 each links for their chains prove that. How many years have the rest of us been using a chain tool!!! It works for everybody else or they wouldn't sell them.
3. ShimaNO MTB clusters come in 11-28 period. Nobody could figure out what gears work best so you don`t get a choice. If you spend the $1500 for XTR you can go for the 11-32 cluster, but that is special order.
4. MTB straddle cables don`t adjust so you can`t get it wrong. If there is a fit problem you need another special order cable that is shorter or longer. If ShimaNO people could adjust the cable properly this wouldn`t be necessary.
5. The rear hub doesn`t come apart for service because ShimaNO customers can't put them back together anyway.
Tim's New Top Ten!
Ten more reason not to buy Dura-Ace components:
1. 600 and 105 get zero improvements this year, because Dura-Ace has so many problems everybody is working on a fix.
2. Dura-Ace hollow arm cranks dent easily, but you can have the body shop pull the dent and put Bondo on it.
3. Gear indicator on the Dura-Ace is just a lube squeege. If the cable has any dirt or grease it gets stuck in the indicator window and clogged up.
4. Dura-Ace gear indicator window fills with water when it rains.
5. Shimano advertizes several Dura-Ace cassettes, but the only one the distributors seem to have is a 12-25.
6. Service parts for Dura-Ace don`t exist.
7. Dura-Ace dual pivot calipers come with factory stripped aluminum bolts so you have to drill then off to service the brakes.
8. Shimano sells slotted hubs so you can make and aero bladed wheel for Dura-Ace. Campy makes a total solution with rim hub and spokethat works much better (Shamal). Don`t treat the sympton, get the cure.
9. Shimano doesn`t even make rims. It probably better that way. If they did you have to ride with a spare.
10. Shimano`s idea of a sealing the bottom bracket for Dura-Ace is putting tape on the box it comes in.

#105
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#106
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#107
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My Dura-ace 7700 series 9-speed group is wearing out - the drivetrain is noisy, the return spring on the RD is almost shot, and the FD is also worn. I'll likely replace it with mostly SRAM Red, but is this a good time to buy? I have a reseller with excellent pricing. However, I can either buy now, or if my current system holds together, wait another month of two.
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
#108
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.
My Dura-ace 7700 series 9-speed group is wearing out - the drivetrain is noisy, the return spring on the RD is almost shot, and the FD is also worn. I'll likely replace it with mostly SRAM Red, but is this a good time to buy? I have a reseller with excellent pricing. However, I can either buy now, or if my current system holds together, wait another month of two.
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
#110
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My Dura-ace 7700 series 9-speed group is wearing out - the drivetrain is noisy, the return spring on the RD is almost shot, and the FD is also worn. I'll likely replace it with mostly SRAM Red, but is this a good time to buy? I have a reseller with excellent pricing. However, I can either buy now, or if my current system holds together, wait another month of two.
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
I've heard that new groups are often introduced during the TdF, so would it behoove me to wait at least another month before buying? However, I've read that little will change on 2011 Red - perhaps an improved cassette. After a new group is announced - say at the TdF - how long does it take 2010 parts to be discounted in price, and what kind of discounts can I expect? If I can buy Red now for $1100, could I save myself over $100 by waiting a month or two?
#111
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#113
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