Originally Posted by jayvo86 (Post 10933950)

Really? Or maybe you forgot to re-read the post. Fitness and training are a NON-ISSUE. I am merely asking a question of how to shave a little extra weight. I am aware on the BIGGEST factor being the "engine." But I did not direct my question towards that.

Originally Posted by Tulex (Post 10933954)

You can't have a lighter bike until you are the ideal weight yourself. There is your motivation. Until then, suffer.

Originally Posted by jayvo86 (Post 10933602)

have gotten myself down to almost as low as I could go. (Maybe another 5 pounds)

Originally Posted by umd (Post 10934417)

Although that statement is stupid on it's face, you must have failed to notice:

Originally Posted by umd (Post 10934417)

Although that statement is stupid on it's face, you must have failed to notice:

Originally Posted by bismillah (Post 10934423)

If you could get "maybe another 5 pounds" lighter, you aren't as light as you can go.

Originally Posted by bismillah (Post 10934423)

If you could get "maybe another 5 pounds" lighter, you aren't as light as you can go.

Originally Posted by umd (Post 10935473)

Key words "ideal" and "almost"

I doubt most people on bikeforums are anywhere near 5 pounds of their ideal weight.

Originally Posted by jayvo86 (Post 10933663)

I live in Nebraska. A few big hills, but a lot of freaking wind.

Originally Posted by colombo357 (Post 10933918)

1. Buy used racing tires. They're light to begin with, and half the rubber is gone.
2. Get radial laced wheels and remove every other spoke.
3. Remove every other ball bearing in your BB, hubs, and headset.
4. Get carbon bars and stem, ditch the bolts, glue them together with epoxy
5. Get a crankset with four chainring bolts and remove two of the four bolts
6. Remove tube valve caps
7. Trim down your crank arms to 120mm and have them redrilled and tapped by a competent machinist
8. Only tape the bars from the drops to the hoods. Leave the bartops bare. Leave the barend caps off.
9. If your spokes are painted, sand them down to bare metal
10. Buy used brake pads and sand them down with a belt/disc sander until only 10% of the friction material is left.
11. Ask a loyal friend to bike in front of you with an electric bike, and have him carry the water and supplies.

Originally Posted by AngryScientist (Post 10933612)

buy some nicer wheels, if you ever decide to get a nicer bike, you can use the good wheels on either bike.

Originally Posted by joe_5700 (Post 10936193)

Same here. Do you live in Omaha? If you ride in and out of the river valleys, there are some good hills to be found believe it or not. Here are the wheels that I have on my Felt that I have been very happy with. http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...od&productId=4

Originally Posted by icyclist (Post 10943809)

1) Don't ride with gloves - Cost: $0 - save a couple of ounces
2) Lose the valve caps on the tires - Cost: $0, save a few grams
3) What do brakes weigh? Cheap brakes from Nashbar weigh less than offerings from Shimano. - Cost: $30; could save a few ounces
4) Cut down the seat post if not fully extended now - Cost: $0 - save an ounce or so
5) Use jersey pockets instead of a saddle bag - Cost: $0 - save a few ounces
6) Remove water bottle cages, bottles in jersey pockets - Cost: $0 - save an ounce or so

These tactics could save you about half a pound; what is that on a 22 pound bike, about a two percent reduction in weight? The weight of a triple over a double drivetrain is about 4 ounces.

Two percent is meaningless for a short ride, perhaps not so meaningless on an epic ride where your life and/or reputation are on the line.

Originally Posted by jayvo86 (Post 10937895)

I live in Bellevue. Where do you shop at?