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too much glue sniffing?

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View Poll Results: Is there too much glue on these rims?
You should be good to go!
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16.67%
Clean off the rims, yo!
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Voters: 6. You may not vote on this poll

too much glue sniffing?

Old 07-27-10, 08:21 AM
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ridethatbike
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too much glue sniffing?

I just got some Zipp 303s for triathlon/cyclocross/fun and this is my first foray into Tubulars. The Grifo's I pulled off of the Zipps were glued on there pretty fastidously, and I'm wondering if there is TOO much glue on the rims still.

I tried using some Acetone, and it did soften the glue, but only to the point where I thought it'd take at least 3 hours to clean each rim. I also know that some glue on the rim is ok, but I didn't know at what point is it too much. Hopefully these pics convey the amount of glue on the rims.

Thanks!







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Old 07-27-10, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by fatroadie View Post
I just got some Zipp 303s for triathlon/cyclocross/fun and this is my first foray into Tubulars. The Grifo's I pulled off of the Zipps were glued on there pretty fastidously, and I'm wondering if there is TOO much glue on the rims still.

I tried using some Acetone, and it did soften the glue, but only to the point where I thought it'd take at least 3 hours to clean each rim. I also know that some glue on the rim is ok, but I didn't know at what point is it too much. Hopefully these pics convey the amount of glue on the rims.

Thanks!
What pics?
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Old 07-27-10, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by tagaproject6 View Post
What pics?
You're too fast!
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Old 07-27-10, 08:28 AM
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If you've already put acetone on the glue, its probably damaged the integrity of the glue on the rims. I wouldn't trust it. I would take all the glue off and start over with a clean rim.
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Old 07-27-10, 08:50 AM
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https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=101
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Old 07-27-10, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by San Rensho View Post
If you've already put acetone on the glue, its probably damaged the integrity of the glue on the rims. I wouldn't trust it. I would take all the glue off and start over with a clean rim.
True, the acetone application has damned the glue bed.

Scrape, solvent whatever, just get it nice and clean.

Some guys/gals are lazy, paranoid, or both (yikes!). Tubulars don't need much at all to stay on, just a thin coat.
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Old 07-27-10, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tagaproject6 View Post
I've read nearly every frickin' article there is on the net including this one. (Please don't think me as complaining about you posting a link) Maybe I've just confused myself. I just re-read the Park article, and it seems that I'd be ok to maybe take off some of the big chunks of glue so that it isn't too lumpy, and then use some new glue to further smooth out the rim contact patch. I have a few days to work with, since I'm waiting on valve extenders from ProBikeKit.

This is very exciting, and I'm anxious to try this out.
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Old 07-27-10, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Erzulis Boat View Post
True, the acetone application has damned the glue bed.

Scrape, solvent whatever, just get it nice and clean.

Some guys/gals are lazy, paranoid, or both (yikes!). Tubulars don't need much at all to stay on, just a thin coat.
I also didn't use hardly any acetone, since it didn't seem to be doing too much (maybe over 9" of the rim, if that). I also thought I read that acetone was one of the agents in Mastik 1, so as it evaporates the glue cures. That would make me wonder why applying acetone on existing glue would make any difference since, in effect, the glue was re-activated and by now has cured again. Right?
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Old 07-27-10, 09:28 AM
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Old 07-27-10, 09:45 AM
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clean the glue off and start over. depending on the type used you can have some good success with a steel core plastic tire lever. If it is just too tenacious then use VM&P naptha. It works much better than Acetone or rubbing alcohol. Use in a well ventilated area and keep in mind that naptha is lighter fluid.

I use a cloth rag. Turn frequently. Let it dry out completely after use.

It will not damage carbon. i have used this trick since learning about it on here and through VeloNews. It has been a godsend.
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Old 07-27-10, 10:01 AM
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The existing glue is Mastik1. I'll look into the Naptha stuff. Looks like I can get that at my local big box store.

Originally Posted by Psimet2001 View Post
clean the glue off and start over. depending on the type used you can have some good success with a steel core plastic tire lever. If it is just too tenacious then use VM&P naptha. It works much better than Acetone or rubbing alcohol. Use in a well ventilated area and keep in mind that naptha is lighter fluid.

I use a cloth rag. Turn frequently. Let it dry out completely after use.

It will not damage carbon. i have used this trick since learning about it on here and through VeloNews. It has been a godsend.
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Old 07-27-10, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by fatroadie View Post
I've read nearly every frickin' article there is on the net including this one. (Please don't think me as complaining about you posting a link) Maybe I've just confused myself. I just re-read the Park article, and it seems that I'd be ok to maybe take off some of the big chunks of glue so that it isn't too lumpy, and then use some new glue to further smooth out the rim contact patch. I have a few days to work with, since I'm waiting on valve extenders from ProBikeKit.

This is very exciting, and I'm anxious to try this out.
No worries. You may want to just clean off all that glue and restart. Prepwork will be the bulk of your work but after that, you should be golden.
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Old 07-27-10, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fatroadie View Post
I also didn't use hardly any acetone, since it didn't seem to be doing too much (maybe over 9" of the rim, if that). I also thought I read that acetone was one of the agents in Mastik 1, so as it evaporates the glue cures. That would make me wonder why applying acetone on existing glue would make any difference since, in effect, the glue was re-activated and by now has cured again. Right?

The stuff never really cures (in the classic sense). What ratio was the tubular cement to the acetone vehicle in the original mix?

You attacked it with a solvent, now you have to finish the job.

I take that back, do whatever you want.
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Old 07-27-10, 11:53 AM
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Honestly, with the small amount of acetone you used you can just run a scotch brite pad over it to knock off the big chunks and glue up some new tires. It would be best if you used the same glue that is already on the rims.

If you really want to strip it down (still not a bad idea), the naptha (ie coleman camp stove fuel) works quite nice. Another solvent that is even quicker is brake parts cleaner. If you get the old school, more toxic, chlorinated type and use a scotch brite pad that stuff will basically wipe off. Just be sue to work in a VERY well ventilated area and use gloves. The non-chlorinated type will also work, but not quite as good.
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Old 07-27-10, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by briscoelab View Post
Honestly, with the small amount of acetone you used you can just run a scotch brite pad over it to knock off the big chunks and glue up some new tires. It would be best if you used the same glue that is already on the rims.

If you really want to strip it down (still not a bad idea), the naptha (ie coleman camp stove fuel) works quite nice. Another solvent that is even quicker is brake parts cleaner. If you get the old school, more toxic, chlorinated type and use a scotch brite pad that stuff will basically wipe off. Just be sue to work in a VERY well ventilated area and use gloves. The non-chlorinated type will also work, but not quite as good.

If you do use the chlorinated type, don't do it in the basement near the furnace (mostly a problem in winter). Chlorinated solvents going through a burner can rust out your heat exchanger. If combusted, it makes hydrochloric acid. Flammability isn't a concern, but it can be expensive in furnace parts. Otherwise, there are no better glue solvents.
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