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SRAM Rival chain rub normal?
I have a CAAD 9-4 with the compact crank. It was dropping the chain on the downshift from the big ring to the little ring. Always at the worst time.
In the little ring using the highest gears (smallest cogs) the chain would rub. Took it back for the 200 mile checkup and the LBS tells me it"s the nature of the beast. Adjusted out to the max and shouldn't drop the chain anymore but the rub is "normal" for that setup. I have a 20 year old Shimano that is whisper quiet and never dropped the chain or rubs against the FD. Granted it has adjustments that can move it if it did. I just don't think Cannondale would sell a setup that rubbed "normally" Anyone else experience this? |
I don't know if the SRAM Force is very different from the rival, but, I am using an 11-28 and 34-50 combination and and have no chain rub at all even at extreme cross-chain. Check the angle and height of your FD in relation to your chainset and make sure they are within tolerance. Check also the chain you are using. A wide/thick chain will also rub. Look for another LBS while you're at it.
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Chain rub is normal in extreme gears.
However, Rival uses a wide cage derailleur body I believe. If you set it up correctly you should be able to set it up without any rub even in extreme gears. Just set the limits tolerances to be really close. |
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
Also, it's possible that the chain is zinging against the inboard side of the big chainring when you're in the extreme small-small combo. I've noticed this on one of my bikes. Trimming the FD via the shifter doesn't make a difference, but shifting to the next-to-smallest cog makes it disappear (as does shifting to the big chainring). It's a different kind of sound, though. Instead of the "brrrr brrr" you'd get with FD rub, it has a "grriing grriiing" sound, at least on my Shimano and Sugino cranks, as the chain nicks the pins on the big ring. |
I'm having some issues with Rival too. I got the chain rub to go away by tinkering with the FD a bunch and I can get all combinations now except redundant ones. However I do have a problem with cable tension in my big-small (53-12) combination that is really annoying. I cant get the combination to work without the sound of the derailler trying to move. The problem came out of nowhere. So just keep messing with it till u get it.
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Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11250358)
I have a CAAD 9-4 with the compact crank. It was dropping the chain on the downshift from the big ring to the little ring. Always at the worst time.
In the little ring using the highest gears (smallest cogs) the chain would rub. Took it back for the 200 mile checkup and the LBS tells me it"s the nature of the beast. Adjusted out to the max and shouldn't drop the chain anymore but the rub is "normal" for that setup. I have a 20 year old Shimano that is whisper quiet and never dropped the chain or rubs against the FD. Granted it has adjustments that can move it if it did. I just don't think Cannondale would sell a setup that rubbed "normally" Anyone else experience this? |
Rival has trim for the front shifter in the small ring, doesn't it?
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Originally Posted by BarracksSi
(Post 11250662)
Rival has trim for the front shifter in the small ring, doesn't it?
WRT to the OP - any extreme gear combinations will be sub optimal for rub. It's life. |
Originally Posted by BarracksSi
(Post 11250662)
Rival has trim for the front shifter in the small ring, doesn't it?
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Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11250358)
I have a CAAD 9-4 with the compact crank. It was dropping the chain on the downshift from the big ring to the little ring. Always at the worst time.
In the little ring using the highest gears (smallest cogs) the chain would rub. Took it back for the 200 mile checkup and the LBS tells me it"s the nature of the beast. Adjusted out to the max and shouldn't drop the chain anymore but the rub is "normal" for that setup. I have a 20 year old Shimano that is whisper quiet and never dropped the chain or rubs against the FD. Granted it has adjustments that can move it if it did. I just don't think Cannondale would sell a setup that rubbed "normally" Anyone else experience this? Don't cross chain. |
mine rubs on the 2 smallest gears on the small chain ring, but that isn't a big deal because i'm usually on the big ring before that happens. I can use all 10 cogs from the big ring and not even need the trim.
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Shift to the big ring.
My rival drivetrain does rub a bit on the small/small combo, but I never use that anyway - you should have the same overall gear available using the big ring and a different cog (or at least something very close to it). BTW, Rival does have FD trim - on the big ring. JB |
One more time:
Do not cross chain. That is all. |
Originally Posted by jonathanb715
(Post 11253099)
BTW, Rival does have FD trim - on the big ring.
Anyway, yeah, the noise of the FD rubbing is your signal to quit cross-chaining and shift the front. Although it shouldn't be bad on a properly adjusted FD, either. |
yah, yah, yah, don't cross chain - I say, then why is it there? I want to get down the street as fast as possible not do calculations in my head, I don't even want to look down. What chain am I on, how many teeth, let's see, if I shift now, what ratio will I be in? will I have to up or downshift from there?, etc. etc. easier to just stay in that ring and make the quicker shifts.
I finished a 30 miler this morning... annoying to have it rub, nobody else on my group ride seems to have this iisue, Bianchi, Felt, Scott. Switching from the small to big ring is not clean and quick on the Rival either. Just not a big fan of it, debated getting the 105 group... woulda, shoulda, coulda. |
Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11253467)
yah, yah, yah, don't cross chain - I say, then why is it there? I want to get down the street as fast as possible not do calculations in my head, I don't even want to look down. What chain am I on, how many teeth, let's see, if I shift now, what ratio will I be in? will I have to up or downshift from there?, etc. etc. easier to just stay in that ring and make the quicker shifts.
I finished a 30 miler this morning... annoying to have it rub, nobody else on my group ride seems to have this iisue, Bianchi, Felt, Scott. Switching from the small to big ring is not clean and quick on the Rival either. Just not a big fan of it, debated getting the 105 group... woulda, shoulda, coulda. And just an FYI - chains really aren't made to bend much laterally. If you run cross chained, even if there's no rub, you are reducing the life of your chain. The small cogs are there to be used with the big ring, and the big cogs are there to be used with the small ring. The ones in between are there to be used with either. IMHO. JB |
Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11253467)
yah, yah, yah, don't cross chain - I say, then why is it there? I want to get down the street as fast as possible not do calculations in my head, I don't even want to look down. What chain am I on, how many teeth, let's see, if I shift now, what ratio will I be in? will I have to up or downshift from there?, etc. etc. easier to just stay in that ring and make the quicker shifts.
I finished a 30 miler this morning... annoying to have it rub, nobody else on my group ride seems to have this iisue, Bianchi, Felt, Scott. Switching from the small to big ring is not clean and quick on the Rival either. Just not a big fan of it, debated getting the 105 group... woulda, shoulda, coulda. Not cross chaining doesn't require as much thought as you make it seem. If that's too complicated maybe a geared bike just isn't for you. Anyway, if you're trying to get down the street as fast as possible, why are you even in the small ring? |
Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11253467)
yah, yah, yah, don't cross chain - I say, then why is it there? I want to get down the street as fast as possible not do calculations in my head, I don't even want to look down. What chain am I on, how many teeth, let's see, if I shift now, what ratio will I be in? will I have to up or downshift from there?, etc. etc. easier to just stay in that ring and make the quicker shifts.
Generally, if you shift about three cogs at the same time you shift the front, your cadence will be the same, or at least close enough. Push the RD lever through a full sweep when you shift the FD to the big ring, and click it down a few times when going the other way. No need to count teeth during a ride. Besides, I use the big ring for going fast, and the small ring for noodling around. Keeps things easier that way. I finished a 30 miler this morning... annoying to have it rub, nobody else on my group ride seems to have this iisue, Bianchi, Felt, Scott. Switching from the small to big ring is not clean and quick on the Rival either. Just not a big fan of it, debated getting the 105 group... woulda, shoulda, coulda. |
Originally Posted by BarracksSi
(Post 11253401)
I thought that Rival and Force had it on the small ring, and Red on the big. Not that I've spent enough time on a Sram bike, anyway.
Anyway, yeah, the noise of the FD rubbing is your signal to quit cross-chaining and shift the front. Although it shouldn't be bad on a properly adjusted FD, either. |
Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11250358)
It was dropping the chain on the downshift from the big ring to the little ring. Always at the worst time.
Took it back for the 200 mile checkup and the LBS tells me it"s the nature of the beast. Adjusted out to the max and shouldn't drop the chain anymore but the rub is "normal" for that setup. I have a 20 year old Shimano that is whisper quiet and never dropped the chain or rubs against the FD. Granted it has adjustments that can move it if it did. I just don't think Cannondale would sell a setup that rubbed "normally" This is not the first time i hear people say dropping the chain or rubbing is NORMAL. Sram seems to believe this to be the case, and so does everyone who owns sram. My advise would be to go onto ebay, and get a new set of Dura Ace or Ultegra and be done with it. You can get last year's models online for real cheap, brand new in the box. You can even build it yourself and never have any rubbing or chain dropping issues with shimano old friend. Now, of course everyone is going to chime in here who owns sram and defend it to the death, but i think by now you realize the realities of sram
Originally Posted by j mazz
(Post 11250358)
Anyone else experience this?
You need not worry, it IS normal for chain rub and chain dropping with sram... either you except it and live with it, or just get shimano and be done with it. |
Originally Posted by Howzit
(Post 11253836)
Unfortunately this IS the nature of SRAM. Its crap, its useless. I had a conversation with a guy who has owned a bike shop for over 30 years, and I asked him as he was closing shop, i pulled him up close and asked what he really thought of the 3 groupos, shimano, campy and sram. I assured him no other Americans where around so he could be honest with me. He promptly told me that Sram is the most useless peice of junk he has ever seen. I asked him why. He told me on taking apart sram stuff, you quickly see its crude, low quality parts that make it what it is. He said Shimano is just far more sophisticated, better built and just is the real deal. Campy he said was ok, pretty soild too. I agree with him exactly.
This is not the first time i hear people say dropping the chain or rubbing is NORMAL. Sram seems to believe this to be the case, and so does everyone who owns sram. My advise would be to go onto ebay, and get a new set of Dura Ace or Ultegra and be done with it. You can get last year's models online for real cheap, brand new in the box. You can even build it yourself and never have any rubbing or chain dropping issues with shimano old friend. Now, of course everyone is going to chime in here who owns sram and defend it to the death, but i think by now you realize the realities of sram Yes, Andy Schleck this year in the Tour De France, who ironically lost the tour by 39 seconds in the end, the exact time he lost the stage when his sram dropped the chain when he attacked..... think about that one. His chain skipped gear too a couple of times in the final TT as well, so there you have it.... You need not worry, it IS normal for chain rub and chain dropping with sram... either you except it and live with it, or just get shimano and be done with it. seriously? you focus on that one tdf incident? what about the fact that contador was also on sram and didn't have a single issue? what about that all 3 podium finishers last year were on sram and didn't have an issue either? I recently upgraded from 105 to rival AND removed my chain catcher because SRAM just shifts better. |
Originally Posted by Yaniel
(Post 11253866)
seriously? you focus on that one tdf incident? what about the fact that contador was also on sram and didn't have a single issue? what about that all 3 podium finishers last year were on sram and didn't have an issue either? I recently upgraded from 105 to rival AND removed my chain catcher because SRAM just shifts better.
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Originally Posted by Yaniel
(Post 11253866)
seriously? you focus on that one tdf incident? what about the fact that contador was also on sram and didn't have a single issue? what about that all 3 podium finishers last year were on sram and didn't have an issue either? I recently upgraded from 105 to rival AND removed my chain catcher because SRAM just shifts better.
See, you dont even know that Contadors mechanic MODIFIED his rear dérailleur because it was giving the same problem. He switched out the pulleys because it was skipping gears like Schleck's bike. Like I said, you just dont get it. And you own sram, so of course its great stuff, just great stuff right? |
Originally Posted by Howzit
(Post 11253905)
im focusing on ANY chain drops that had consequence in the Tour, and guess what, it was sram that rose to the occasion, several times this year. You simply dont get it.
See, you dont even know that Contadors mechanic MODIFIED his rear dérailleur because it was giving the same problem. He switched out the pulleys because it was skipping gears like Schleck's bike. Like I said, you just dont get it. And you own sram, so of course its great stuff, just great stuff right? |
Originally Posted by Flatballer
(Post 11253894)
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