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Washing Lycra...

Should the shorts be washed inside out to protect the colour, or is that bad for the saddle pad?

inside out is fine and could possibly be more hygenic.

It doesn't matter. If they are inclined to fade, they'll do it when you have them on and are out riding in the sun.

Cycling gear can be washed and dried just like your every-day clothing.

Lycra shorts are 80-90% polyester. They go in the wash with my running clothes. I have a separate basket for them as I sometimes go even through 2 sets a day.

They are "delicate" fabrics, treat them as such. Cold/Cold only wash. I use less detergent that with cotton loads.

Dry low or no heat. It's best to hang/air dry, but I'm lazy and impatient. Do NOT use fabric softener/dryer sheets, I've never had them get static, they're software by design of the materials, and the stuff in fabric softener acts like a wax and clogs up the pores of the clothing and impedes the sweat wicking performance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Val23708 (Post 11281879)

inside out is fine and could possibly be more hygenic.

Yeah I purposely put them inside side out. Makes me feel like I know they are definitely getting clean where they need to be. I don't care about the outside is clean or not, but definitely want that bacteria and such gone!

I do the inside-out wash, for sanitation reasons.

I... uh...

(checks with wife)

Apparently, it doesn't matter, as long as you wash on delicate and hang/air dry.

I wash inside out in cold-cold then hand to dry. Inside out for cleanliness, but also make it easier to hang, on drying rack, putting bar where the saddle sits essentially. Also when i take off my shorts they naturally turn inside out and I don't bother to fix them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Menel (Post 11281976)

Additionally, I almost forgot important detail, fragrance free, hypo-allergenic type detergent.

And I actually went to the manufacturer's website for you.

Quote:

Unfortunately, improper care can diminish and even alter our fabric and garment performance. For the best results and performance from your Pearl Izumi garments, follow these general rules:

1. Use simple detergents with no additives:
Never use detergents with fabric softeners, perfumes or any additive type product. The general rule of thumb is the simpler the better. Many detergents with additives leave "surfactants" behind on a fabric's fibers that inhibit the technical performance.
Typically the best detergents to use will have "Clear" or "Free" in their names.
Don't pour the detergent directly onto the clothing, put it in the washer first, when you start the water.
If something is not functionally working, but is not dirty, try rinsing it twice in warm to hot water. This will help get rid of the harmful surfactants.

2. Read the care content label:
On the inside of your garment, or on the hangcard, there are instructions for the care of that individual piece. On garments this will be on a side seam or back seam label. Follow those directions.
On finer fabrics, use a "Gentle" cycle.
Close all zippers, attach "hook and loop" closures on gloves

3. You can use the dryer, carefully:
If you use a dryer be sure to use a lower/ warm heat setting (Do NOT use a commercial dryer or a "Hot" setting). This will often restore the fabric and help the water and wind repellent qualities.
If in doubt, hang the clothing to dry.

http://shop.pearlizumi.com/cms/index...ge=fabric-care

E.G. I use:
Tide Free & Gentle Liquid Laundry Detergent
Tide Free & Gentle is dye- and perfume-free.

But looking at their site, also have this stuff which would likely be ideal:
Tide Free for Coldwater Liquid Laundry Detergent
Specially formulated for cold water, without dyes and perfumes.
http://www.tide.com/en-US/product/ti...coldwater.jspx

I use a sports wash (soap) instead of a detergent.

I bought the tide cold water specifically for that purpose. Seems to do it's job well.

never put in laundry cause I won't see until sunday. I always hand wash in the sink with luke warm water to break up grease and regular detergent then rinse with cold. Takes 2 minutes to take off after ride, throw in sink and wash. Always wash extra in pits, neck and saddle pad inside out. Rinse and hang outside.

this way I don't have to do special load just for cycle stuff and wont bleed colors all together.

You can wash them?!??

In the wash now, hopefully dry by 5am in the morning when I do my first 100km

Quote:

Originally Posted by Body_Fortress (Post 11282526)

In the wash now, hopefully dry by 5am in the morning when I do my first 100km

Buy more cycling clothes.

I wear mine into the shower and wash them there. I use the Whole Foods brand of shower gel and hang 'em up to dry,

Another +1 for inside-out. Just thinking how much ball-sweat has soaked into that pad is enough reason for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mathwheels (Post 11282327)

Same. Takes 5 min tops.

0) ride
1) make recovery drink
2) hand wash cycling cloths in the bathroom sink
3) shower
4) hang cloths out to dry

In the shower with Dove.

Seriously. I walk right into the shower and hose everything down, even helmet. Hang to dry. On days that I want to wash them separate I use Forever New in the sink.

I throw them in a mesh "delicates" bag and use the gentle cycle...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Machka (Post 11281920)

It doesn't matter. If they are inclined to fade, they'll do it when you have them on and are out riding in the sun.

Cycling gear can be washed and dried just like your every-day clothing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...tefacepalm.gif http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...9103defb8d.gif http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rffacepalm.gif

Warm/Cold , inside out, on the gentle cycle, immediately following every ride. Bibs, Jersey and Gloves.

I wash mine by hand.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phantoj (Post 11282463)

You can wash them?!??

Imagine that!