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Tire (inner tube) with a bubble

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Tire (inner tube) with a bubble

Old 08-22-10, 04:14 PM
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DoNotStop
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Tire (inner tube) with a bubble

New to Road Cycling, and BF.

Hello to all.

I recently purchased a Vilano Tuono and had an issue with the inner tubes.

I over inflated the rear OEM inner tube, and replaced with a Bell universal 700X25.

I stopped short of a pop, tried to maintain 100PSI and...

I had one part of the tire fatter than the rest. The bubble was located on the stem section of the tire.

2 questions:

(1) Why do I have a bubble? I tried, with 2 different tubes, same result.

(2) What is the best way to inflate a presta valve reliably, and at 100psi (without damage, and the method must be portable)

Thanks in advance,

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Old 08-22-10, 04:24 PM
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Make sure the tire bead is sealing.Loosen the locking nut on the valve stem and try again.
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Old 08-22-10, 04:35 PM
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I have been cranking down on the locking nut, prior to inflating. Should I inflate first, then tighten down the locking nut?

Thanks for the responses.

No LBS for me. I would rather learn and understand how to do it right, than go to an LBS. What if I'm on a ride, and no LBS where I stop?


Thanks again.
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Old 08-22-10, 05:19 PM
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Pump your tire up before tightening the nut,this should allow the tire bead to seat properly.
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Old 08-22-10, 05:21 PM
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you're not inflating the tubes outside of the tire, are you? They'll balloon up to huge sizes and deform the rubber. You should only inflate them inside a tire.
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Old 08-22-10, 05:22 PM
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I think the point is that they can show you how to do it at the LBS. Don't just loosen the lockring nut, throw it away along with the cap.
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Old 08-22-10, 06:21 PM
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Throw the cap and nut away? Is this the norm?
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Old 08-22-10, 06:23 PM
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yeah. They're both useless, especially on Presta. The only time I use the nut is on tubeless MTB tires, since it's kinda necessary there. The cap I never use on Presta, it's only useful on Schrader.
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Old 08-22-10, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Flatballer View Post
yeah. They're both useless, especially on Presta. The only time I use the nut is on tubeless MTB tires, since it's kinda necessary there. The cap I never use on Presta, it's only useful on Schrader.
This, get smooth stems. Kenda's for example. Won't shred the head of pump.
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Old 08-22-10, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DoNotStop View Post
Throw the cap and nut away? Is this the norm?
One more vote for tossing the locknut. I don't know that it hurts anything being on there, but it doesn't do any good, either. I haven't used them for at least 20 years.
You can toss the cap, too, unless it's red. Then you have to use it for the little flash of color.
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Old 08-23-10, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for the responses.

I figured out my problem. I needed a tube with a longer presta valve. I could not seat the bead around the stem properly with a short valve stem.

I guess I need to o to the LBS for some tubes. Walmart does not sell long presta valve tubes.

Anyone recommend a good tube?
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Old 08-23-10, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DoNotStop View Post
Thanks for the responses.

I figured out my problem. I needed a tube with a longer presta valve. I could not seat the bead around the stem properly with a short valve stem.

I guess I need to o to the LBS for some tubes. Walmart does not sell long presta valve tubes.

Anyone recommend a good tube?
the stem length does NOT affect how easy it is to seat the bead - it only affects how well you can inflate it afterwards. You are still doing it wrong. Review your technique.
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Old 08-23-10, 09:03 PM
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Not really wrong, IMO. Tubes are thicker right at the valve stem, and sometimes tire beads won't seat well there unless you push the tube up into the tire using the valve stem. Otherwise, you can pinch the tube and it could blow out there.

I always push the valve stem in like that when replacing tubes, so I could see where a short valve stem might be a problem. Of course, once the tube is in and the tire seated, the valve stem needs to be pulled back out. Unless the stem is short, and the rims are very deep, I'd think it's not a problem once it's seated.

And I never use valve stem nuts or caps...

YMMV
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Old 08-23-10, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DScott View Post
I always push the valve stem in like that when replacing tubes, so I could see where a short valve stem might be a problem.
If the valve is short enough that you can't push it up, then you won't be able to inflate it anyway... so... yeah.
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Old 08-24-10, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
the stem length does NOT affect how easy it is to seat the bead - it only affects how well you can inflate it afterwards. You are still doing it wrong. Review your technique.

The valve stem, with the bead seated, barely poked through the rim. Even if I pushed on the back of the tire to expose more thread, I didn't have enough meat to attach the pump head.

I went to the LBS, picked up some tubes, and put them in. No problems, all is well.
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Old 08-24-10, 03:41 PM
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ah, so way too short then. glad you got it solved.
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Old 08-29-10, 11:42 AM
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A little update:

First, I would like to say that the crow I ate was awesome. Thanks nhluhr for some good advice!

The following day both of my tubes were flat. I went to a third LBS, and this is where I found expert advice.

They quickly discovered that the tubes I had (700x18-23) were too small for my rim and tire.

The first shop gave me 700x23. They insisted 2 mm was negligible. The second shop sold me 3 tubes, (one was popped by the "Professional" and was on the house.) 700x18-23.
He was baffled, as the holes were always on the inside, 1/4 of an inch away from the stem. His advice was to fill at a lower pressure (80 psi) and/or get new tires.

The third shop replaced one tube, and he did it very different from the 2nd LBS dude. I did the second tube the way he did (he made it look so easy). 4 tubes purchased (700X 28)

So, 60 miles later, tubes are in great shape! I went through(popped) 10 tubes during this ordeal. So glad its over, and I can ride!.

Thanks for all of the comments, insight, and advice!
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Old 08-29-10, 04:33 PM
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So what exactly was the failure mode? Pinches near the valvestem? Or were they abrasion/punctures along the rim side of the tube? Have you verified your rimstrip is up to snuff? If there are exposed spoke nipple holes in your rim surface, get a Velox cloth rimstrip. If it's just smooth metal (a la any high-end Mavic Ksyrium or similar), check for burs. I've never heard of slightly undersized tubes failing because they were used in a 700x25 tube (until, perhaps now).

Perhaps the thicker rubber right near the valvestem didn't allow that portion of the tube to balloon enough which increased the stress on nearby rubber that was thinner like the rest of the tube.
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Old 08-29-10, 05:08 PM
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I did replace the rim tape with "real" rim tape. I could actually duplicate the failure. It was baffling.

Once I (we) went to a slightly larger tube, no more issue. The explanation given by the LBS mechanic was that the 18-23 tube was just undersized, and probably would not fill the void in the wheel, without stressing the tube/valve. The failure happened on both the front, and the back tire, and in the same spot.

The other variable that changed was going from Sunlight tubes, to Bontrager tubes.

What really blew my mind, that prior to changing the size and brand of tube, the old type of tire could be installed, checked and inflated- Then 6 hours later, under no load whatsoever, psssssssssssssss. And that was at 80lbs, not the 100lbs the tire specifies.

Tire Voodoo.
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