I have my 2009 down to 16.44lbs.
But that's 16.44 Bulletproof Pounds.
I'm working to get it down to under that,
but never at the expense of reliability.

I'd go with black arms and tape on your rig.
But I'm partial...I love black.

:D

http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...Slammed013.jpg

I found it on craigslist. I got lucky because I was looking for a 54cm and the guy I bought it from loved the frame, but wanted a 52cm. So he was selling his frameset and somehow found a 52cm in all black to replace his. The frameset is in pristine condition even though it is used. I'm guessing <500 miles.

Nice...what stem is that?

Agreed about the black, figured I'd give the white a shot since they get stripped anyways when they go for PC and it's different. Jury is still out. I'm actually looking for a Caad 9 that I was going to strip and murder out for fun and as a crit/backup bike.

I didn't do additional pics due to time, but I think it looks better in person. The stem, saddle, seatpost, and frame all match with the flat black and white strip. Maybe more pics later.

As for weight, honestly I don't care much, I was just curious. I'm a 180# sprinter with decent power so it's all about getting it to the ground on the jump and railing corners.

As for the question about clinchers or tubies...66s=clinchers....46s and 23s=tubies...I don't trust tubies in crits railing corners and such. 46s and 23s are for road races. Didn't even think about that, the 66s are probably right at 2k grams with the PT....23s are right under 1100 and tubies....that'd easily put it into the mid 15s but not bomb proof. I only use those wheels for climbs.

Thanks. It's a Bontrager XXX Race Lite OS (156g/Viagra Stiff).

I say don't give it a shot..."shoot" it! :lol:

That's what this was supposed to be...a tide-me-over bike until I could get carbon, but it didn't turn out that way. :D

I didn't do additional pics due to time, but I think it looks better in person. The stem, saddle, seatpost, and frame all match with the flat black and white strip. Maybe more pics later.

16 is plenty light.

Only clinchers for me. If I get stuck on a path, I could be 20 miles from nowhere. That's a long way to have to walk back.

2012 CAAD10

Originally bought as a 10-5, but added Rival levers, brakes, RD, Force crank.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../CAAD10web.jpg

Is that finish matte ? Using my phone and I can't tell.

Yessir it is.

Nice 2012 Caad10.

:welcome

I have a favor to ask - could someone with a CAAD10 (preferably 2012, but I'd be curious about any year) measure the width of the rear dropout spacing?

Since I got my 10, I've noticed some difficulty removing and putting the rear wheel back in. Up until today I've only used the stock Fulcrum 7s, and the stock skewer. Today, I threw on my tubulars, with a different skewer. This skewer apparently doesn't interface with the dropouts in quite the same way as the stock skewer - in the middle of sprinting up over the crest of a hill, the wheel fell out of the dropouts.

(I'm 100% fine, I went in to a front wheelie for a bit, got my feet out and saved it. I'm sure I'll get some "you didn't tighten the skewer properly" responses - well, maybe I didn't, and obviously if I didn't then I'm pretty damn lucky I didn't kill myself. Let's leave it at that, please..)

I measured my dropouts when I got home and they're 140mm, uncompressed (i.e., no wheel + skewer setting them together). This strikes me as being odd...but I'm kind of a dumbass when it comes to bike mechanics.

Can anyone corroborate or disprove this is normal for CAAD10s?

Thanks

140mm? Is that after the accident?
I'm looking at CDale docs that say 130mm.
I'll see what I can post for you.

Thanks - It measures 140mm now, "after", but there was no crash/impact that would have changed the spacing. It is what it's always been (on this particular frame). Road bike rear spacing is supposed to be 130mm AFAIK - 135mm is for MTB, I think.

I'm wondering if when the wheel came off, the pressure while riding expanded the spacing a bit.
(still researching...nothing on CDale's site for CAAD10's. Odd.)

Edit:
It should be identical to the SuperSix according to CDale.
SuperSix is 130mm rear/100mm front.
C10 should be 130mm as far as I can tell,
but an actual CAAD10 owner will know better than I.
The SS & C10 have seemingly identical geo.
Don't see why C10's dropouts would be different.

SuperSix & CAAD10 Geo
Specs for SS

I can't say with 100% certainty that's not what happened, but I don't think it is. It's always been a bit awkward putting a wheel in this frame - I always line up the RD and chain on the smallest cog (where the RD is adjusted to), and it's still more of a struggle than with other bikes to get the wheel in. I realize now this can be attributed to the dropout spacing being off...

I'm just not sure if this is something wrong with my frame, or if it's to spec. One note on Sheldon Brown's frame-spacing page worries me in particular -
of course, "cold setting" is essentially what I'm doing if I use skewers to secure a 130mm hub in to 140mm dropouts..

Slynk,

Check out the links I posted.
If you're getting 140mm, something looks wrong from the factory.
Have your LBS check it out. If it's supposed to be 130mm,
Cannondale will probably get you another frameset.

Thanks for the links 2ndGen...so either something's very wrong or I'm crazy (btw I used digital calipers AND a measuring tape to confirm). I've sent an email to my LBS and will call 'em tomorrow. I appreciate your help!

If anyone with a CAAD10 is able to measure, I'd still be interested for a confirmation if you've got 130mm..

edit: LBS emailed back, saying it sounds weird and they want to take a look. damnit...my backup bike is in the shop getting serviced already, so I've apparently gone from 2 to 0 working bikes. Don't feel safe using the CAAD10 until LBS has looked at it..

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q...0/P1030992.JPG

I just checked my 2012 CAAD10. The rear drop out is exactly 130mm.

There you go Slynk.
"Issue" confirmed.
Go get your new frame.
;) Good job prspect.

Thanks all!

the Cult rocks :thumb:

Yes they do. :D

http://calitreview.com/wp-content/up...09/guyana1.jpg
(big ups qcp :thumb: )

are you the only owner?

cold setting a steel bike 4mm takes a little effort. i wouldnt be surprised to see a cannondale crack or kink if it were "cold set" 10mm. keep in mind you would have to spread it past 140mm to make it stay there. some tandem hubs are 145mm. if a previous owner shoved one of these in the bike it may have cold set the frame to 140. ive got a bike (steel) that was 126mm but is now about 128mm from years or removing and replacing a 130mm hub.

your decision to quit riding the bike is a smart one. hopefully you can get it replaced (if you are the original owner)

Back to the skewer issue. I've noticed that my aluminum bikes are much more susceptable to skewer issues than my carbon ones. I believe it's likely due to the stiffness of the frame and the fact that the skewer has less bite on an aluminum frame than a carbon one. More than once I've shifted my rear skewer/wheel in a sprint. Consequently, I now only run the dual lever Crank Brothers and get them VERY tight. Doing this with a lower quality skewer will eventually pop the lever heads off. Done that twice with Reynolds skewers that come with the carbon wheelsets.

Glad to hear you didn't crash and no, I've noticed nothing of the sort on my 2012 Caad 10 and have switched wheels on it a few times. It is definitely 130mm +/-1mm or so. Haven't measured it but would notice when swapping wheels if I had to adjust the skewer much.

G/L with the new frame. How long did you have it?

I'm the original/only owner. Bike (CAAD10 4) was bought in November, via a legitimate and well known local Cannondale dealer. I'm bringing it in to them today, I'm sure they'll take care of me.

Please keep the 41 posted on what happens with your frame. This is pretty strange goings on here. Any thing hard enough to further spread the rear triangle would be noticable and with a 10mm spread I suspect you would find some wrinkles in the seat stays as aluminum does not cold set at all. Did you notice the additional width when installing the rear wheel and securing the skewer?

I'll post an update after my visit to the shop later today, in this thread.

Unfortunately I did NOT notice it when installing the rear wheel. I threw on my tubulars for the first time since I'd gotten the bike, yesterday. I'd previously removed/installed the stock rear wheel, using the stock skewer, and it admittedly always felt like more of a struggle than it should have. Unfortunately I didn't even think to check if something was truly wrong - I actually figured I'd shortened my chain a little too much, making it harder to slide the wheel/cassette in there properly.

When I put my tubulars in, though, I used a different skewer. I tightened it well - but I suspect now that the dropout was actually resting on the spring!! Anyway, tightened it up and went for a ride. While going hard up a hill, the rear lifted a bit and the wheel dropped out. I (luckily) came to a stop with my feet on the ground. Called for a pick up.

Anyway, I feel like I've eaten way too much of this thread's time, so I'll post any additional updates in the separate thread, linked above. Thanks again all.