Beautiful bike, how do you like the Eastons? I'm riding my Caad10 on Ultegra's with Schwalbe One's and the ride is awesome. I've been looking at new wider wheels like the Eastons, Ardennes, Industry Nine's, and even the new tubeless Reynolds Assaults?

Thanks - I did not know that. Nor, did the shop mention this when they put the spacers up there.

I ran way more than on top of my stem, on my Synapse, for a couple hundred miles, before cutting steerer. maybe there is a difference between Carbon and Al steerers?

I wanted to be sure! Now I have zero spacer below or above.

Did you cut the steerer yourself? I'm not sure if my shop would do this.

Cutting the steerer is easy...measure twice, hacksaw once. Getting over the "if I screw this up, I've ruined everything" feeling is the hardest part.

A shop you bought the bike from, should do it for you though.

My local shop did it, had two shops that t would, and I picked the wrong one.

they both said $20, I took it to the shop I bought the bike from. He ended up charging me $35. Which irritated me as he didn't need a new star nut as I had already had it pushed down due to using a cap for carbon steer from another bike. and then he tried to swap caps on me. I have a carbon steer Cannondale slice fork. Salt in the wound was the $29 charge for adjusting front derailleur. I had been complaining about a BB30 click, he kept blowing me off. I took it apart, broke some Al. shaving off frame that came up when factory pressed bearings in I guess, fresh lube, and put it back together and no more click. It went together tighter than it had been from factory.

That shop offers 2 year warranty, one time adjustments. 1 year later, all I wanted was steerer cut, and for him to look at derailleurs. Plus I was already irritated at being blown off on the BB clicking. He ***** me.

It's okay, he put in some Trek Crossrips on his showroom floor, can't move them. I wanted one, so went to a third LBS in area that carries Trek and bought a Crossrip.

If I had the tools, I'd youtube it and do it myself. I suppose I should youtube the derailleur stuff....

for $35 I could have bought a really nice hacksaw! and had change left over...

I always worry a bit when I go to do maintenance on my bike, but after watching enough youtube videos and reading enough articles, I gain the confidence to do it.

It might take me longer the first time around, but I'm usually pretty successful.

I just had a friend that took her bike into the shop to get a flat tire repaired. I was flabbergasted. I told her to bring her bike over this weekend and I'd show her how to do it. She's quite excited.

Cutting steerer is simple but most shops do it cheap and shop you just bought a bike from should do it ....free? As part of set up and adjustments.

To confuse us all, it seems all manufacturers have different recommendations for running spacers above stem on carbon steerers. Some specifically say that you should always leave a small spacer above the fork. Cannondale says not to run any spacers above the fork: (see pg 99 of manual)

https://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...ers_Manual.pdf

I don't think riding it that way for a few weeks will cause damage but once you have fit dialed in , it should be cut to length. Of course remember you can't un-cut your fork so make sure it is truly comfortable before committing and also keep in mind cutting too short can effect resale

Nice CAAD 10. I'm around your size as well 165 / 5'6. I got recommended a 52 from one shop and some guy recommended me a 48 from another shop :/. I'm guessing either a 52 or 50 will suit me.

I also wanted to play around with slightly dropping the stem so I brought my CAAD10 to my Cannondale LBS and the owner moved one tiny spacer up top for me after it's first tune up. I just saw the Cannondale manual where it says not to run any spacers above the stem. However, I noticed that even some of the EVOs in the pro peloton have spacers positioned on top of the stem?

I honestly don't see what difference it makes. But I am also the guy that would grind the Lawyer tabs off the front fork.

It isn't that hard to make sure your QR is tight, or that your head set is just right.

Apparently it puts stress on the steerer tube and can cause it to fail. Basically the si compression plug is designed to reinforce the tube and by having a spacer above the stem the stem is being clamped on the portion of steerer below the compression plug which won't have the reinforcement.

Is the steerer going to snap if you have spacers above? Maybe not. But when it comes to things like this I'll just listen to what the manufacturer recommends since they recommend it for a reason

o ya? but really pros can do whatever pros what. a 2mm spacer above the steerer isn't going to change anything. What the manual really is referring to is enough spacers to essentially make the expander 'expand' only near the top stem bolt or above where the stem clamps completely.


yes there is a different between aluminum and carbon steerer tubes. With aluminum old way was just using a starnut. With clamping force of stems around carbon steerers you ideally would need a expander like specialized or cannondale's version. I have one from specialized to use my donut top cap.

the cap itself matches the inner diameter of the steerer, so when the stem clamps, it's not just clamping a tube with no reinforcement. ALSO other companies say that as a CYA (Cover your ass) i think because if you look at other expander/top cap designs ..... the steerer needs to be slightly shorter than the stack of the stem, for compression. If the steerer is cut just a tad too* short then the steerer might be shorter than where the bolt of the stem clamps, and it's clamping 'air'. With cannondales expander again this is not a problem because of their design.




moral of the story. Commit to the fit and just cut the steerer =)

I started off with the Ultegra's (WH6700) as well and they are good wheels but I wanted something wider and lighter. Unfortunately the EA90SLX are also like the Ultegra in that they are a low spoke count wheel. I've noticed that with low spoke count wheels, it's really hard to tune them enough to take out all the wobble in rim and still have enough tension in the spokes. These wheels have a slight wobble when I put them on the tuning stand but on the bike and in use, I don't notice it at all. It's not such a big deal and I'm just being anal about making the wheels totally straight.

With that said, they've been really great wheels in the nine months that I've been riding them. I'm running 80psi f/r and along with the wide wheels, makes the ride so supple. I'm not sure if I notice a difference in rolling resistance but the ride has improved when compared to my clincher wheels. They're also stiff enough that when I'm accelerating hard there's no noticeable brake rub. Considering the low weight (1450g), width and ability to run tubeless, the EA90SLX have a good combination of features that tick the right boxes for me.

Thanks! I'm 5'6/165 as well and I really prefer the 50 over the 52. I rode a 52 for a year and didn't feel as comfortable as my 50. Try them both though!

I went into another Local buy shop the guy that recommended me a 52 over a phone was really nice and we did many bike fit tests. First we did a 52 which he presume would fit me since I am 165 the same height as yours but he noted that my legs were a bit on the small size. We decided to do another bike fit test on a 50 bike a different brand, how ever after several attempts he said we might as well go for a 48 since I have the more flexibility option. So after 2 different places they have recommended me a 48. I just made a deposit and picking up my bike next week. I got the team colours, I'm pretty excited.

just curious what are the Seat tube angle differences between 48 and 50, and how much will that change things? head tube angle also?

Edit: never mind on angles I looked them up. but how does that factor in on fit an ride characteristics?

He said if I was to choose a 48 model over a 52 or 50 cm I would get more seat tube height approx 4 - 6 cm more. Plus I have more flexible options with my head tube adjusting stems. The 48cm will allow me to go into a more aero dynamic position if I choose to, while the 52 and 50 is a bit limited, I could get away with the 50 but he said the 48 would suit me better. They didn't have a 50 in stock so they got me on a Pinarello to give me a idea of how the bike would feel if I was to choose the 50.

While getting bike fitted my seat and the handle bar is nearly even on the 52, and less on the 50.
On the 52 there was only round 5cm of seat post showing, which meant it didn't fit me, the second test on the Pinarello had a bit more seat tube height and the 48 will give me a bit more.
My legs are a bit short.

Here's mine:


Not the best staging but whatever this isn't hot or not. 2014 CAAD10 105.

Love this bike! A huge upgrade to what I was riding for a few years.

aye , probably only changes....fizik r1, keo max 2, and maintenance... chainrings, cables, housings.

Is the CAAD10 purely a crit racing bike? Would the geometry be suited for a 100+ mile hilly ride, assuming it was fitted with the correct gearing/wheels?

No. And yes.

One of my first rides on mine was a (slightly) hilly century. It performed admirably, and I've done bigger rides on it since. I do sometimes wish I had lower gearing, but what mine came with is adequate for 99.9% of the roads I ride on.

Isn't there an unwritten rule that mid cage derailleurs and compact cranks aren't allowed on a CAAD10 frame? lol