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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

The Cult of CAAD...

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Old 05-19-14, 10:27 AM
  #8151  
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anyone use a trunk rack with their caad10? The TT contact point kind.
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Old 05-19-14, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
anyone use a trunk rack with their caad10? The TT contact point kind.
I use to but i didn't find the trunk rack very secure. Maybe it was a user error, but it would still move around a little when driving. I now use a roof rack
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Old 05-19-14, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
anyone use a trunk rack with their caad10? The TT contact point kind.
I'm not quite sure what a TT kind is, but I use a truck rank - Saris Bones 3
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Old 05-19-14, 03:52 PM
  #8154  
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Originally Posted by stevepwolf
what about any of these cannondales? worth the price?

white

black

yellow

any help is appreciated.
Here's my take on those three bikes and bike prices in general. I do love the Black Lightening and $500 is something I'd pay for it if it were my size and in very good condition. It's something that I'd ride and get my money out of and to me that's the key. To me the white bike is a no-brainer - worth the 250. The guy with the yellow bike seems like a jerk but I'd go $400 for that.

Make sure the bikes have no dents or major dings, shifts properly etc. On the yellow bike I'd make sure that the kickstand did not do any damage to the seat stay or chain stay.
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Old 05-19-14, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mrtrinh
I use to but i didn't find the trunk rack very secure. Maybe it was a user error, but it would still move around a little when driving. I now use a roof rack
w/my synapse I would use my extra lengths of strap to secure my bike to the rack and have no play/swing at all. It would take me about 10-15 minutes to undo everything

Originally Posted by LordLivingston
I'm not quite sure what a TT kind is, but I use a truck rank - Saris Bones 3
I guess I should have worded it as: "will my trunk rack that holds the bike from the top tube damage the top tube"

But from your two responses sounds like it should be fine. I may wrap the top tube in something just in case though.

My next investment will be a hitch followed by hitch rack w/platforms. I am sick of cramming my bike into the car
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Old 05-19-14, 08:41 PM
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Quick word of thanks to all those who helped with my question concerning the Hollowgram - much appreciated, everyone!
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Old 05-20-14, 05:29 AM
  #8157  
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Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
But from your two responses sounds like it should be fine. I may wrap the top tube in something just in case though.
Yeah, I've used the trunk rack for a couple years with no issue. I have made some efforts to protect the points of contact:

1) put those little clear stickers under the beads that hold the brake cable away from the top tube. Otherwise they can rub the frame a bit when the bike is on the rack
2) I use two lengths of pipe insulation to cover the frame where the straps of the rack go around (top tube and seat tube)
3) I use a single bungee cord to hook on the front of one pedal, loop through the front wheel, and pull taught to the other pedal. Put the drive side pedal in the forward position so the bungee doesn't rub the big ring.

Takes about 1-2 minutes to mount/dismount from the rack. Getting the strap on the seat tube as tight as possible stops most of the swinging, but mine is never dead still.

Last edited by LordLivingston; 05-20-14 at 05:30 AM. Reason: fix quote
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Old 05-20-14, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Team Sarcasm
I would just stick with what you have until you wear it out. Being new to biking,upgrading will only make you feel better and not make you into a better rider.

The FSA crank grabs the chain and the brakes stop you right? As a beginner, that's all you need.

Use that money to invest in quality clothing/computers/shoes/pedals/etc and clock 2500 miles on your bike before you decide it you want to upgrade something. That will show you 1. if you like biking or not and 2. How much you need to improve before you need your bike to improve (because in all honesty, it's rarely the bike that holds someone back, rather the person holding the bike back).

And lastly, when you replace something that doesnt need replacing, your have an initial "yeah that was a great choice" followed by a "wow, i just wasted my money because I spent 500$ to do nothing more than the exact same thing"
That is probably the best common sense post in this long but great thread. Best advice. We all want the bomb but most of the time stock is all we need for now until we know what we need and not desire.
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Old 05-20-14, 04:50 PM
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Joining the Cult!

2012 CAAD10 Team Replica 52cm
2012 Red - Shifter, RD, and Brakes
2013 Red - Compact Crank 165mm, and Yaw FD
Ultegra 12-25 Cassette & DA 7901 Chain
Shimano MTB Pedal
3T Ergonova LTD handle bar 42cm
FSA SLK stem 90mm
Syntace P6 HiFlex Seatpost
Specialized Romin Pro saddle 143
Zipp 303 FC Tubular

Last edited by bbqpork; 05-20-14 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 05-20-14, 06:38 PM
  #8160  
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Originally Posted by bbqpork


joining the cult!

2012 caad10 team replica 52cm
2012 red - shifter, rd, and brakes
2013 red - compact crank 165mm, and yaw fd
ultegra 12-25 cassette & da 7901 chain
shimano mtb pedal
3t ergonova ltd handle bar 42cm
fsa slk stem 90mm
syntace p6 hiflex seatpost
specialized romin pro saddle 143
zipp 303 fc tubular
wow
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Old 05-21-14, 04:41 AM
  #8161  
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Looking to join the club with a 2014 model, but have a question regarding cranksets. From what I can gather from reading around online, quite a few people seem to develop the infamous BB creak. Is this more an incorrect installation issue or a side effect of using a non-bb30 crank?

I'm looking at getting either the Ultegra or Ultegra Racing model. Would spending the extra couple hundred on the Ultegra Racing to get the SI cranks (true bb30) be worth it over an FSA or Ultegra crank paired with a bb30 adapter and would this basically guarantee me from developing the BB creak? Cheers
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Old 05-21-14, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mxs
Looking to join the club with a 2014 model, but have a question regarding cranksets. From what I can gather from reading around online, quite a few people seem to develop the infamous BB creak. Is this more an incorrect installation issue or a side effect of using a non-bb30 crank?

I'm looking at getting either the Ultegra or Ultegra Racing model. Would spending the extra couple hundred on the Ultegra Racing to get the SI cranks (true bb30) be worth it over an FSA or Ultegra crank paired with a bb30 adapter and would this basically guarantee me from developing the BB creak? Cheers
Don't know but I picked up a used CAAD9 frame with adapter installed and it creaks like mad when under heavy load
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Old 05-21-14, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mxs
Looking to join the club with a 2014 model, but have a question regarding cranksets. From what I can gather from reading around online, quite a few people seem to develop the infamous BB creak. Is this more an incorrect installation issue or a side effect of using a non-bb30 crank?

I'm looking at getting either the Ultegra or Ultegra Racing model. Would spending the extra couple hundred on the Ultegra Racing to get the SI cranks (true bb30) be worth it over an FSA or Ultegra crank paired with a bb30 adapter and would this basically guarantee me from developing the BB creak? Cheers
From what I've read and seen it's a mix of poor machining from the factory and some people using thread-locker instead of bearing compound. I have no creaking in my FSA-sleeve converter, but I'd use the Parlee adapter bearings if you went the Shimano route. The only "guarantee" is a round BB bore.
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Old 05-21-14, 10:06 AM
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Maybe I'm not hearing it right, but I feel like I'm not hearing a creak from the BB, but from my handlebars. I've greased all the connections and torqued all the bolts, but I still hear a quiet click noise from what seems like the handlebar region when under load. It is the only annoying thing about the bike.
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Old 05-21-14, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Leinster
Maybe I'm not hearing it right, but I feel like I'm not hearing a creak from the BB, but from my handlebars. I've greased all the connections and torqued all the bolts, but I still hear a quiet click noise from what seems like the handlebar region when under load. It is the only annoying thing about the bike.
The compression plug can be also be source of noise.
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Old 05-21-14, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by eriku16
The compression plug can be also be source of noise.
Aha. Could be. Any suggested remedies, or just grin and bear it? The stem bolts are surely holding my bars in place, so I can presumably back the tension off on the plug?
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Old 05-21-14, 11:42 AM
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lol:
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Old 05-21-14, 12:20 PM
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I would love to build up a Caad10. I have bars, a saddle, and pedals so far. You guys have any suggestions on how I can find a frameset for a decent price?
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Old 05-21-14, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Shotland
I would love to build up a Caad10. I have bars, a saddle, and pedals so far. You guys have any suggestions on how I can find a frameset for a decent price?
Buy the bike, put everything you don't want on CL/eBay. When I went looking, there were framesets going used for $600-800, but I got a new complete 105 for $1100.

The trap you can fall into here is that instead of taking the time to upgrade the bike to the parts I wanted, I just started riding it so I now have a 105 group with 2000 miles on it, and a wife who won't let me spend the money on a Campy group.
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Old 05-21-14, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Shotland
I would love to build up a Caad10. I have bars, a saddle, and pedals so far. You guys have any suggestions on how I can find a frameset for a decent price?
What size? My budy has a mint black/silver 2013 56cm frame and he's looking to swap it with a 54. These frames are like the gold standard, they always bring between $800-900 used.
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Old 05-21-14, 01:00 PM
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I'm very short- looking for a 50 or so.
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Old 05-21-14, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
These frames are like the gold standard, they always bring between $800-900 used.
Where? They have been consistently selling for $500-600 on ebay

caad10 | eBay
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Old 05-21-14, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by rms13
Where? They have been consistently selling for $500-600 on ebay

caad10 | eBay
Search the closed auctions. The price really moved in the last 15 minutes. I watched eBay for a couple months when shopping for a 54cm frame, I ended up going retail.
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Old 05-21-14, 03:14 PM
  #8174  
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Originally Posted by Shotland
I would love to build up a Caad10. I have bars, a saddle, and pedals so far. You guys have any suggestions on how I can find a frameset for a decent price?

Ebay/Craigslist and keep looking. Good deals pop up once in a while.
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Old 05-21-14, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SirHustlerEsq
Search the closed auctions. The price really moved in the last 15 minutes. I watched eBay for a couple months when shopping for a 54cm frame, I ended up going retail.
That link is for closed/sold auctions. Brand new 2014 CAAD10 frameset sold for $535 +40 shipping 2 days ago. Used CAAD10 frame with seatpost and cranks sold for $510 plus $50 shipping a week ago. etc, etc. So yeah, if you are patient, you should be able to get on on ebay with shipping for $600

I bought a CAAD9 frame set on CL with original fork, plus Easton EC90 full carbon fork, Ritchey WCS carbon seatpost, Easton stem and Ultegra front derailleur for $450 last month and I probably overpaid because I wasn't patient and just wanted to get something.
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