charlesw

Hi DoNotPanic, welcome to the forums.

Something you might think about is the Geometry of the frame and wheel placement. Some of the bike websites I linked mention how the wheels are further/closer apart. Some of the touring road bikes (which means not meant for racing) have a different measurement. For example, a racing road bike might have a longer top tube- the tube running from the seatpost to the front fork. A longer tube here means the rider is stretched foreward, which allows them to be more aerodynamic.

You will find that some people will mention how on some bikes you "sit up" more- meaning the handlebars are closer to you, which allows you be a bit more comfortable. For us beginner riders, that is important. (Comfort)
Sheldon Brown talks about posture. He explains how correct riding poster is aligning your body so that the bones rest on other bones- instead of relying on your body to hold itself in a position with mostly muscles.

Thus, choosing a 'city' bike like the Specialized Sirrus or the ?? Sagres is cheaper- but is more comfortable for you.

As far as the Windsor bike, I'm not sure on their Geometry. As mentioned in my post above with all the links, I'm starting to realize fit is very very important. I looked a while all around Los Angeles to find a bike that was at least my height-size (the guy was only 4 blocks away!!) and I'm realizing now that the bike might be too tall for me.

Something else to think about: some of the bikes listed aren't as adjustable- for example, the handlebars may not be able to rise up, etc. (higher handlebars allows you opportunity to "sit up" more, as I mentioned before.) Being tall, I raised my handlebars as high up as they would go out of the front fork and I enjoy riding like this much more. I'm not crouched down as much.

Some other things you might look at:
-Different bikes vibrate and handle road vibrations more. Bianchi, Specialized, Trek, k2 and other well known manufacturers may have a better frame, which will last longer and handle vibration much less.

A lot of people on the boards have opinions about what they like/don't like. I'm finally starting to get my own opinions as I ride my bike around and this helps me understand what I might want in the future.

Keep reading here and you will learn a lot, like me! yay!

donotpanic

thanks for the info. i plan to be riding around the city, no super long distance (at least not frequently). i usually will deal with inclined roads (none of the city-grid flat roads), but i plan on moving to the new brunswick area and will probably be in philly & nyc a lot with a bike, so i assume i would need something good for city. so probably something with a shorter top tube or something?
i plan on going to the local bike shops and just talking to the people and trying out different bikes to see how they are exactly different.

IcySmooth51

mabey you should get a speed bike with flat handel bars but with the same wheels and gearing as a regular "race" bike, the downside to this being more wind resistance because you sit up higher. I for one would concider a bike like this heavily if I planned on rideing in the city. Biggest thing to me is test ride the bike for at least a mile before you buy if possible.

tanjou

I rode a steel Raleigh Grand Prix for a few months through the summer, even took it on a century, before I was in the market for a new bike.

I went with the Specialized Allez Triple. It's normally $700, and at that price it was a steal (I got it even lower ). It's absolutely superb. I replaced the rear cassette with a 9-speed Ultegra, but that was really just because I wanted a different gearing setup. I find some problems when shifting into the granny gear, but that may just be my bike, as it only started happening recently. We've been though a lot lately.

Anyway, highly recommended. And screw that ugly silver, get the blue.

siubrian

hey guys, seems like most of you are from the states so I dont'know if anyone will be able to help me out as I'm in Montreal Canada. I've been biking around on an old steve bauer and figured its time to upgrade and saw the Lemond nevada city posted by Lufty.
so, does anyone know of Lemond dealerships because I've trekked around the city and can't seem to find a carrier.
also, any opinions on Devinci cycles?

flyingscotsman

Outdoor Gear Canada
Phone:514 332 1320
Fax:514 335 1691


That is the only one listed

Kilbourne

Hey Guys.

Here are the two bikes i have to decide between.

The '05 Trek 1000 or the Learsport 7700. The Trek is $1000 (AUD) and the Learsport is $1100 (AUD)

The Trek has a Bontrager Carbon fork with sora shifters and a Tiagra rear-derailleur, and the Learsport has a 'Carbon fibre racing fork' with all tiagra components.

I know that Tiagra is better than sora but what about the frames and all the other parts on each bike? Which is better. Here are the links:

Trek:
https://www.bicyclestore.com.au/item-...kes/trek-1000/

Learsport:
https://www.ettalongbikeshop.com.au/i...earsport-7700/

Any feedback would be great, let me know what your thoughts are, and which is the better bike.

Cheers.

robgreen

I don't know about these specific bikes, but I can say that, all other things being equal, I would spend the extra $100 to get Tiagra for the reason of the shifters. The Sora shifters have a thumb button / brake lever combination, and you can only reach both from the hoods, but the Tiagra shifters can be operated for both up and downshift from either the hoods or the drops.

Speaking of which, I wonder if my wife will notice if I swap out all the components from her Ultegra-equipped bike for the Sora stuff on mine (duck, run, hide).

Kilbourne

Thanks for the reply rob.

I think i will go with the Learsport, with the Tiagra gear. the only concern is if the frame is the right size. Trek makes a 63cm frame and Learsport only a 60cm. I'm very tall so if its comfortable then ill buy it.

z123

I have a trek 1000 and I also weigh 220. I popped a couple of spokes at about 900 miles. (This isn't new; I've popped spokes on all the bikes I've owned, though they've all been cheap bikes.)

At 1000 miles I searched the web for wheel-building instructions and I replaced all the drive-side spokes on the rear wheel with DT 14/15 gauge spokes, trued up the wheel, and upped the tension in the spokes somewhat. I've gone 2800 more miles with perfect performance of the wheels and spokes -- no need to true or anything.

The key for heavy, hard riders is to get high quality spokes and up the tension in the wheel so that when you pluck the spoke it plays an E or an F. Get out the old pitch pipe and give all your spokes a half-turn of increased tension if necessary!

Bidaas

Hey Scott

Which is the LBS? I am also interested in a bike in this range and can check out the 04 Raleigh at $319
Thanks

cpk0

i'm sure it's been mentioned before, but since I've only been cycling for a couple months and I just found this site today, i figured I'd add this: i got my Lemond Nevada City for ~$600 and I couldn't be happier with it. I have nothing to compare it to, I don't know if it feels smooth, or silky or rigid, but when I'm riding it, it's just very enjoyable, and that's the point, right?

Portis

Much is repeatedly said about aluminum vs. steel. In regard to this price category of bike (under $700) which would be better to consider, aluminum or steel? Also how much weight difference would be typically found between a steel and aluminum frame in this price range?

LordOpie

weight is irrelevant.

cheap steel > cheap AL

Portis

Why??

operator

It's the engine not the bike.

Portis

Of course it is, but I only have one engine. I am interested in which bike my engine will make go faster. However I don't want to achieve this speed at the expense of my teeth. (i.e. rough ride)

LordOpie

are you racing or commuting/touring with a limited time frame?

becklion

Ok I love bikes. I just joined the cycling team at Michigan State University. I'm a budget basketcase. I want to do at least 1-2 races in the spring. I am just learning what "training" is, and I need money to buy a "trainer" that doesn't "suck because it doesn't run on magnets". I have never ridden a road bike outside of an extremely brief test ride of a very sexy and expensive cannondale cyclocross. I am intrigued by the price and positive reviews of the raleigh sport in this thread. I have voraciously consumed every cycling book I can find about bike mechanics, and Hi-ten steel (raleigh frame) does not get high marks. I also noticed a few comments about road vibration. That is all fine and good in the long run, but is it going to affect my first season? My guess is that the likelihood of me noticing things like vibration is slim when I don't even know how to corner. I don't want to be kicking myself later for not investing in something made of cromoly or aluminum (although I have picked up that cheap aluminum is to be avoided.) I will be extremely grateful for any and all input on this matter. This website and thread are fantastic!

Kilbourne

One brand i can stongly recommend is Trek, any of their models are great. I recently bought the Trek 1000, which is their entry level bike and I have been very happy with the bike. The trek aluminium frames are very good, and very comfortable. Test ride this a trek bike and compare it with a cheaper (less money) bike. You will notice the difference.

Keep looking, and look at a wide range of brands. Make sure you test ride everything!! There are a lot of good bikes out there - but give Trek a try cause they have been great for me.

Good Luck!!!

gen129ss

Do all of the bikes in this price range come with a triple up front? I'm in the market for a new bike but I would prefer not to have a triple.

abmo

I put a deposit on the raleigh sport '05 for $350 can anyone tell me how it compares to the '04 and if its worthwhile? here are the specs. Also they want $70 more for the Grand sport '05 should I take that instead?

Sport '05
Sizes 50cm, 53cm, 56cm, 59cm, 62cm
Colors UK Black/Red
Frame Hi-Ten Steel Road Frame
Fork Chromoly Road
Headset Threadless A-Head
Crankset Truvativ Touro 30/42/52t
Bottom Bracket Sealed Cartridge
F. Derailleur Shimano FD-2200
R. Derailleur Shimano RD-2200
Shift Lever Shimano Sora ST-3300
Cog Set 8spd SRAM PG-850 (12-26t)
Chain Shimano HG50
Hubset 32h Alloy Joytech w/QR
Spokes 14G Stainless Steel
Rims Alex DA-16 DW
Tires Kenda K152 25c
Brakes Tektro 423A
Brake Levers Shimano Sora
Pedals Road Platform w/Clips and Straps
Handlebar Alloy Ergo Road
Grips Raleigh
Stem Alloy Adjustable Ahead
Seatpost Alloy Micro Adjust 27.2 x 300mm
Saddle Avenir Road
Extras Water Bottle Mounts, Cateye Reflector Set, Clear Coat, Owners Manual
Price Please visit you local Raleigh Dealer for pricing.

hi565

If this pic dont work look at my sig.

its a bianchi brava. Its my first and hey it works for me. I changing form sora to tiagra or maybe even 105

hi565

its was for 630$

taimaixu

it seems like a good deal.
where did you order this?