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Front derailleur upgrade on entry-level bike

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Front derailleur upgrade on entry-level bike

Old 11-05-10, 08:12 PM
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pgjackson
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Front derailleur upgrade on entry-level bike

Got the Fuji Newest 3.0 recently and love it so far...but I can tell the front derailleur is going to be an issue. The rear shifts beautifully, but the front is grinding and missing a lot. Today I shifted the front and the entire chain came off and got wrapped around the axel. Couldn't pull the chain free so I had to call someone to pick me up.

The front is a Shimano 2303 for a triple. What would be a good upgrade under $100? Just looking for something that is going to be smoother and more reliable. Thanks.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:16 PM
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Shimano 105
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Old 11-05-10, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Razor From KC View Post
Save the money back and get a Double
I like the triple...it's good for my knees on the hills.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:28 PM
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Have you tried adjusting the derailleur? I had the same problem recently, a little messing around with the limit screws and I was all set. I have a 105 front derailleur and had to get a longer H screw to get the right adjustment. I'm sure there are others that know more about this than I do but I don't think a front derailleur upgrade will make that much of a difference as even a DA FD can shift like crap if not adjusted properly.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:32 PM
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Have you had the LBS adjust the derailleur? Throwing the chain over the top of the crank would generally indicates that the HL screw needs to be tweaked. The grinding sound when shifting between chainrings may have just as much to do with the crank as the derailleur..... even with a bling derailleur, you may still have issues if the pins/ramps on the rings are garbage.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:35 PM
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I really don't think that the FD is the problem... adjustment yes.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:37 PM
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It's a new bike and it hasn't been adjusted yet. Still breaking it in. Has about 150 miles on it so far. How many miles before taking it in for adjustment?
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Old 11-05-10, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by pgjackson View Post
It's a new bike and it hasn't been adjusted yet. Still breaking it in. Has about 150 miles on it so far. How many miles before taking it in for adjustment?
I would say about 140.
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Old 11-05-10, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pgjackson View Post
It's a new bike and it hasn't been adjusted yet. Still breaking it in. Has about 150 miles on it so far. How many miles before taking it in for adjustment?
The way you describe it, sounds like it's due right about now.....
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Old 11-05-10, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pgjackson View Post
It's a new bike and it hasn't been adjusted yet. Still breaking it in. Has about 150 miles on it so far. How many miles before taking it in for adjustment?
Do it yourself as needed. It's really not difficult.
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Old 11-05-10, 09:31 PM
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If you really need a front derailleur, I'll buy it for you. This is almost certainly an adjustment problem, and the shop should fix it for free.If you DO need a new one after only 150 miles, the shop should put it on at no charge and with an apology. If they give you any trouble at all, find a new shop.
Front ders don't have to do much, and they last forever. I have six bikes, and two of the derailleurs have at least 20,000 miles on them.
As an aside, don't believe anybody who tells you triples have built-in shifting problems. I set my Atlantis up with an LX front d. four years/12,000 miles ago and haven't touched it since.
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Old 11-05-10, 10:15 PM
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Have your FD adjusted FD correctly.

Make sure the limit screws are set correctly and that the derailleur is not too high or low.

Also, some BB/cranks are awful about getting chains stuck in them. I put some cardboard around the BB on one of my commuter bikes because it took me over five minutes to get a chain dislodged. Now, if the chain falls off, I don't have to worry about getting my hands dirty and trying to get the chain unstuck.
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Old 11-05-10, 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ptle View Post
Have your FD adjusted FD correctly.

Make sure the limit screws are set correctly and that the derailleur is not too high or low.

Also, some BB/cranks are awful about getting chains stuck in them. I put some cardboard around the BB on one of my commuter bikes because it took me over five minutes to get a chain dislodged. Now, if the chain falls off, I don't have to worry about getting my hands dirty and trying to get the chain unstuck.
Say what?
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Old 11-06-10, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Razor From KC View Post
Save the money back and get a Double
A well set up and adjusted triple will shift just fine. My SORA front D with FSA crankset worked just fine for many many miles, when I got a TIAGRA take off group set for cheap including crankset my front shifting improved greatly, much quicker with less grinding, I think this was a function of better chainrings than f/d change.
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Old 11-06-10, 06:40 AM
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Adjustment, not replacement is needed. I have 2303 as well and it works flawlessly after 2500kms
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Old 11-06-10, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by kayakdiver View Post
Say what?
Sorry, I was a little sleepy when I wrote that.

The area where the spindle goes through the BB on one of my bikes is notorious for getting chains stuck. When it does get stuck, you can't just pull the chain out, you have to loosen some slack in the chain (push the RD forwards) and slide the chain out. It's hard to explain, but it makes it a pain in the ass to get the chain out.

The OP had mentioned that their change was stuck around the axle, which I'm assuming is the spindle from the crank.

The piece of cardboard around the BB keeps the chain from getting stuck. If the chain falls off on the small chainring, it will just rest on the cardboard instead of getting lodged in the bottom bracket/spindle area.

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Old 11-06-10, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ptle View Post
Sorry, I was a little sleepy when I wrote that.

The area where the spindle goes through the BB on one of my bikes is notorious for getting chains stuck. When it does get stuck, you can't just pull the chain out, you have to loosen some slack in the chain (push the RD forwards) and slide the chain out. It's hard to explain, but it makes it a pain in the ass to get the chain out.

The OP had mentioned that their change was stuck around the axle, which I'm assuming is the spindle from the crank.

The piece of cardboard around the BB keeps the chain from getting stuck. If the chain falls off on the small chainring, it will just rest on the cardboard instead of getting lodged in the bottom bracket/spindle area.

Yes, that is where the chain got stuck. Had to use a screwdriver to pry it out.
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Old 11-06-10, 10:56 AM
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Gees, I just noticed that after only 61 posts I am a "Senior Member". Nice!
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Old 11-06-10, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pgjackson View Post
Yes, that is where the chain got stuck. Had to use a screwdriver to pry it out.
Be careful about doing that. You don't want to damage the chain. Depending on how much force you used on the chain, you may want to check each link to make sure the chain isn't damaged.

A damaged chain can easily break, which could cause you to crash during a sprint, climb, etc.
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Old 11-06-10, 11:13 AM
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Me too. Velo Dog and others are exactly right I believe. My Specialized Secteur, with the lowest of the low components, had clunky shifting at first even after the LBS tuned it up. Finally, I went to the Park Tool Maintenence section and followed instructions to the letter. Suddenly the drive train was quiet and smooth and gear shifts were quick and crisp.
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Old 11-06-10, 12:30 PM
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Adjust ur deraileur and you will be back to trouble free cycling. Its worth learning how to do this yourself. Parktool,s web site is good and I'm sure you can find all kinds of videos on the web. While you are at it learn to do the rear as well.
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Old 11-06-10, 04:39 PM
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Agreeing with the posts suggesting FD adjustments. I have a Newest 2.0, and maybe every month or so I feel like I have to make adjustments to the FD/RD. It's also not that difficult, but follow some good directions whether it's Park Tools website, youtube, sheldon brown, and try to have an idea what you're doing before you do it. There's just a couple screws and a barrel adjuster.
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Old 11-06-10, 05:09 PM
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The LBS should adjust the derailleur for you. Or you can look at the Park Tool web site and learn to do it yourself.

Get a 'chain catcher' too. That'll keep the chain from derailling to the inside even when the derailleur is adjusted poorly.
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Old 11-06-10, 08:45 PM
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I'll look for a chain catcher. I am taking the bike in to Performance Bike on Monday. I have free lifetime adjustments there since Ithat is where I bought it.
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Old 11-06-10, 09:05 PM
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take it back to the LBS that sold it to you and tell them it needs to be tuned... The design of most fronts is very similar and the price difference is not a big as in the rear. Save your money and get a proper tune

OH and since you have a triple I'd recommend a chain "watcher" for the small ring

Last edited by CPcyclist; 11-06-10 at 09:13 PM.
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